Correct way to disengage 4WD HI: Dealer says sometimes backup 5 feet?

[PoMansRam]

Like said, it's called shift on the fly 4x4 because that's how its supposed to work.

I get it that under load or turns, the 2wd or 4x4 button light (which ever mode you are selecting) will *blink* until it goes into that mode.

I go into and out of 4x4 at least once or twice a month to exercise the system. Usually when I am off the gas and going straight. Like said, if you are turning or on the go pedal, the corresponding light on the button will continue to *BLINK* until it's happy to actuate the front axle disconnect and T-case clutch.

 

[Mudders Beast]

I also briefly go through the drive modes monthly just to “exercise” them. With hilly terrain, have to use auto4wd for starts in rain. So glad I didn’t get a 2wd only.

 

[James Deal]

I bought my 14 Express last March after owning nothing but Toyota trucks since I got my license 32 years ago. First time I used 4WD to get used to the system I couldn’t get the front differential to disengage. Totally freaked me out, truck hopping around corners all the way back home, people honking and giving me the finger for turning at 2MPH. Posted on this forum and got an answer back almost immediately from a helpful member; just back up a few feet. Now I do that every time!

 

[Hemi4905]

Got my truck back from the dealership and they said nothing mechanical was wrong with the 4x4 Transfer Case or anything else but I paid $150 for the full system diagnostic check and now I’m happier with more peace of mind about my recent truck purchase.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

If it works and get you out of 4wd who cares what year was first used ?
put the shifter in 2wd, then shift to reverse and backup. It will prob disengage 4hi faster that way sometimes. It’s a transfer case not an automatic transmission so it’ll be clunky and sometimes not in sync with the shifter even more so since we have this electric garbage. It also helps if you use 4x4 often as everything is lubricated properly.
My Jeep sometimes will keep 4hi on even though the 4x4 light was off so going in reverse was something I’ll do almost all the time to get it out of 4hi. I haven’t have that happening with the RAM but I’ve driven close to a mile with the switch on 2wd and the 4x4 light still on from 4hi. Stopping and going in reverse couple of ft has fixed it. I’ve found this out when playing to go 4x4 for a few seconds then wanting to go 2wd after that.
I can go 4lo for 4-5 hours in contrast and the shifter gets me to 2wd right away (after doing the expected dance of coming to a stop and putting the trans in N and yada yada yada I hate the electric shifter crap)

+1
Exactly how I've been doing it, first with my '09 1500 SLT 4X4 5.7 and now with my '17 2500 Tradesman 4x4 6.4. Of course both of these has the floor shifter, not the magic button. Sometimes it binds a little, I back up a few feet, feel it disengage, stop, put it in D and roll fwd. No problem. Works every time. I really don't care what any procedure say. I know what works and what causes the least binding, clunking noises. Long live the little stick shifter.

 

[RoadRamblerNJ]

I bought my 14 Express last March after owning nothing but Toyota trucks since I got my license 32 years ago. First time I used 4WD to get used to the system I couldn’t get the front differential to disengage. Totally freaked me out, truck hopping around corners all the way back home, people honking and giving me the finger for turning at 2MPH. Posted on this forum and got an answer back almost immediately from a helpful member; just back up a few feet. Now I do that every time!

Every now & then I miss my 4x4 T-100. Drove that truck almost 15 yrs. It don't owe me a dime. Had the "big" 6 cyl. 3.4L & Manual 5 spd, manual X-fer case.

Found out the hard way how that 4x4 worked.
In 16" of snow, I drove over a huge hole so far, the right front wheel and left rear wheel were both off the ground. I was balanced on the other two tires and pass side door rocker. Stuck.
I put the T-100 into 4-Low Lock, expecting all 4 wheels to spin. NOPE!, Just the two in the air turned!
Ended up hooking a rope to my 4x4 truck and pulling it out with my '84 Chevy Caprice, V8, rear wheel drive, open rear. Got it out!

 

[hoe...]

It's the transfer case 'winding up' due to being driven in 4wd on a non slippery surface.

It won't shift out of 4wd until the tension is removed from the transfer case, either by spinning the wheels and then backing off or by reversing.

I would suggest reversing is the safer option.

It's a very bad idea to drive in 4wd on a solid surface unless the vehicle is fitted with a constant 4wd system with a centre diff system.

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[Jeepwalker]

It's the transfer case 'winding up' due to being driven in 4wd on a non slippery surface.

It won't shift out of 4wd until the tension is removed from the transfer case, either by spinning the wheels and then backing off or by reversing.

I would suggest reversing is the safer option.

It's a very bad idea to drive in 4wd on a solid surface unless the vehicle is fitted with a constant 4wd system with a centre diff system.

That's 100% right. Backing up has been true on 4x4's for ages if it's 'wound up' and won't come out of 4x4. I'm surprised it's not in the manual. I looked at my manual (the Big one), but there's SO many pages ..I didn't have time to rear word-for-word.

 

[CVX20]

With the 44-45 and under torque, I have had to either
a. stop and back up a few feet - usually not driving far. or
b. accelerate and then super light throttle/coast for a couple of seconds - either way has worked on my 2016.
Usually never a problem when moving at a decent speed, happens more in parking lot/yard situations.

Not a bug, the drivetrain just has to be unloaded for the actuator to completely disengage in my opinion.
I would rather have it do that than jump out of 4WD under load.

It's not the transfer case.It's the front axle locking collar that hangs up.If the 2WD light is on solid in the dash it is in 2WD .It's hopping at slow speeds because the frt wheels are locked together and will turn at different speeds when turning.The frt axle needs to be unloaded to disconnect and there usually isn't much of a return spring to help this.

Better oil in the frt diff will make a difference also but it should work fine with stock oil.

 

[pacofortacos]

I have had the same thing happen on a Dakota without the axle actuator - same basic setup minus the axle actuator.

I specified the 44-45 because it doesn't happen with the 44-44, but generally meant the entire front half of the 4WD system.

Oil in the front diff. doesn't change it, as I am running Redline gear oil.

 

[muddy12]

..........................It's hopping at slow speeds because the frt wheels are locked together and will turn at different speeds when turning.The frt axle needs to be unloaded to disconnect.........................

Even with the axle disconnect still connected, if the T-case disengages, there shouldn’t be any hopping around corners, assuming the front dif is still the factory open unit.

I’ve had 2different vehicles in the past, with the ability to manually, and separately control the front axle and the T-case. Both of them could be driven with the front axle (hubs or axle disconnect) engaged and the T-case in 2wd, with no binding or hopping around corners.

I also had an 87 grand wagoneer that had drive slugs in the front hubs, and no axle disconnect.
The only part of the 4x4 system that disengaged, was the T-case, and it never hopped around corners.

Just saying that once the T-case disengages, any binding in the front axle should be released through the front dif, and the axle disconnect should be able to move freely.



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[Ram4529]

My serv 4wd light comes on and not sure why ,it does not go in or out of 4wd and makes no sound at all ,I have a floor shifter

 

[CVX20]

Even with the axle disconnect still connected, if the T-case disengages, there shouldn’t be any hopping around corners, assuming the front dif is still the factory open unit.

I’ve had 2different vehicles in the past, with the ability to manually, and separately control the front axle and the T-case. Both of them could be driven with the front axle (hubs or axle disconnect) engaged and the T-case in 2wd, with no binding or hopping around corners.

I also had an 87 grand wagoneer that had drive slugs in the front hubs, and no axle disconnect.
The only part of the 4x4 system that disengaged, was the T-case, and it never hopped around corners.

Just saying that once the T-case disengages, any binding in the front axle should be released through the front dif, and the axle disconnect should be able to move freely.



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If the frt shift fork is in the connected position,you are on dry road surface and turning it will hop/bind regardless of what the T-case position is.It has to hop because of the wheels turning at different speeds in a corner and still being hooked together.In fact you could pull the frt prop shaft right out and it will still do it.Backing up relieves the tension on the axle coupler so it can slide back to the non-connected position.Like I said good oil can help with the shift collar binding but not the end all be all.To answer the original question of this thread you can go in and out of 4wd at just about any speed going in a strait line as long as you don't have the power on.Just coast until the light stops flashing and then put the power on.Coasting will make it unhook quicker also.Should be no need to back up ever unless something is binding

 

[muddy12]

If the frt shift fork is in the connected position,you are on dry road surface and turning it will hop/bind regardless of what the T-case position is.It has to hop because of the wheels turning at different speeds in a corner and still being hooked together.In fact you could pull the frt prop shaft right out and it will still do it.Backing up relieves the tension on the axle coupler so it can slide back to the non-connected position.Like I said good oil can help with the shift collar binding but not the end all be all.To answer the original question of this thread you can go in and out of 4wd at just about any speed going in a strait line as long as you don't have the power on.Just coast until the light stops flashing and then put the power on.Coasting will make it unhook quicker also.Should be no need to back up ever unless something is binding

As I mentioned in my above post, I’ve had multiple vehicles in the past, that contradict what you are saying.

Not to mention, there are some years of dodge/ram HD’s that did not have an axle disconnect. If what you are saying we’re true, all of those trucks would constantly be hopping around every corner.

Edit: just looked up the years, 94-01 had vacuum operated CAD. 2002, CAD was phased out, and didn’t return until sometime around 2012.
So basically, none of the 3rd gen HD’s had axle disconnects.
Their front axles were connected at all times. The only thing “disconnected” was the T-case.

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[crash68]

If the frt shift fork is in the connected position,you are on dry road surface and turning it will hop/bind regardless of what the T-case position is.It has to hop because of the wheels turning at different speeds in a corner and still being hooked together.In fact you could pull the frt prop shaft right out and it will still do it.

Saying you'll still get wheel hop if you pull the front driveshaft is completely inaccurate.
The reasons why a 4X4 truck will hop when turning is because of a transfer case doesn't allow front to rear differentiation. You can also get wheel hop if your running spools in the front and/or rear differentials or you have a locker and it's not working correctly.
Other than Jeeps and PowerWagons, the front differential in most vehicles out of the factory are open differentials, even in 4X4 Lock you don't get much hop unless you hard over the steering