Couple questions for the audio guru's

[Alex]

So I did a speaker swap yesterday, and i did get a little volume and a lot better quality from it, but once i get subs in there i'll need more for it to keep up. So I'm looking into amping the door speakers and the 2 corner dash speakers.

Is a signal processor really needed or is that just to get audiophile quality and full adjustability? Like would I be able to hook up say an LC6i and a good 6 channel amp and call it good? I get the feeling this will take a while to get it all done, but it should be beautiful when its all done

Also, would the LC6i allow me to get a full range signal to the front doors? I was thinking the LC6i and a JL XD600/6, that'd give me 75W RMS @ 4 Ohms to each speaker

 

[Etroze86]

You can do it without the DSP since it doesn't sound like you are running actively xover. what subs and how much power are you going to be running to them cause honestly I would try them first and see how it sounds. That JL is a hellva amp too you should be happy with it if you decide to go that way, but in all honesty you wouldn't be doing it justice running off of signal from the headunit, unless you can get it dirt cheap but even used they tend to be pretty spendy.

 

[ramridge]

I would look at Pioneer, Kicker, or Alpine amps that accept speaker level inputs and run it off the rear speaker leads. I did this in a 12 RCSB Express and it worked really good. A friend is running a PPI 900.5 and a 2 channel LOC in his and it does really well. However keep in mind the factory headunit is really the weak link.

 

[Alex]

Well I really like the factory head unit honestly, and how everything is integrated. That's why I'm trying to work around it. I've got the subs all planned out, getting 2 10" RE Audio SEX10v2-D4, and going to feed them 1500W@1ohm with the RE USX 45KV.1 in a 1.6 cu ft fiberglass box. I had the 12" v1 of the same subs and they were just plain amazing.

I'm not looking for insane audiophile quality with this build, I just want it to sound good and be a lot louder than the joke of a "premium" system

 

[ramridge]

So do you have the regular 6 speaker setup or the "premium" Alpine?

 

[Alex]

I have the not-so-premium Alpine setup

 

[ramridge]

In that case you will have to have some kind of processor or LC6i to get a full range signal. None of the speakers receive a full range signal. The dash speakers are 1000hz and up. Front doors are 50-1000hz and the rear doors are 50-20000hz.

 

[Alex]

Ahh i gotcha. So really, the best bet would be using the rear door signal to run the 4 doors, and run the dash speakers off their intended channel to keep the low frequencies away from them?

 

[ramridge]

I would recommend really looking at other threads to see what others are doing with a CC. I am attempting basically the same but I have a regular cab so things are a little different. I have a 4 channel amp pulling the signal from the rear speakers to run the highs and a mono amp getting the signal from the front doors for 2 12"s. In regular cab the doors are being used as subwoofers.

 

[Alex]

Yeah my front doors are midbass only as well, that's part of what im trying to work around. I've been looking through threads, but havent really found the answers im looking for, so I'm trying to get questions and answers all in one placw

 

[tokenindian]

In that case you will have to have some kind of processor or LC6i to get a full range signal. None of the speakers receive a full range signal. The dash speakers are 1000hz and up. Front doors are 50-1000hz and the rear doors are 50-20000hz.

Where did you get this information from? I just upgraded and using a LOC with my factory head unit. I have kicker ks35s running off the factory head until and 4 focal 6x9s running off a 5 channel amp. The sub channel driving a 12 in sub. Not sure which speaker inputs the loc is using.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ramridge]

@ tokenindian. Do you have the standard or the not so premium Alpine setup? I found the info on several posts and then I took mine to a dealer with a RTA. I have an R/T and the doors go down to 20hz or so. A friend of mine with a CC the front doors go to about 50hz.

 

[tokenindian]

@ tokenindian. Do you have the standard or the not so premium Alpine setup? I found the info on several posts and then I took mine to a dealer with a RTA. I have an R/T and the doors go down to 20hz or so. A friend of mine with a CC the front doors go to about 50hz.

I have the very basic audio system.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BlkRamRt]

i have a 2012 r/t with the 7 speaker alpine system and im currently using a 3sixty.3. the way i did it was i grabbed signal from the dash the door and the soon the rears. to me all the highs were comming from the dash all the mids were coming from the rears and all the mid bass were coming from the doors

 

[tokenindian]

i have a 2012 r/t with the 7 speaker alpine system and im currently using a 3sixty.3. the way i did it was i grabbed signal from the dash the door and the soon the rears. to me all the highs were comming from the dash all the mids were coming from the rears and all the mid bass were coming from the doors

Yeah on mine the kickers in the dash are easily overpowering the highs of the door speakers. I have to go back and have the shop adjust gains because they set them low to break in everything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[PX8]

Oh it's killing as to which one of the audio control LC's I have, but as mentioned from someone else depending on the amp you can just run the front or rear speaker outputs into the amp and not have to use a line out converter at all. I didn't realize this with my Alpine amp that I bought till I started hooking everything thing up. I have the MRX-V70, but like you've said I really wish I had done a 6 channel to run the dash speakers too off of an amp instead of the HU and then another amp for some subs. I have replaced all of the factory speakers too.

 

[tokenindian]

My arc audio 805 amp doesn't offer speaker level inputs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[PX8]

What I should have bought and how I should have set it up....
XD800/8v2: 8 Ch. Class D Full-Range Amplifier, 800 W

Six-Channel System Amp: drive front and rear satellites with 75 W x 4 @ 4Ω, plus two 4Ω subwoofers with 200 W each

 

[Alex]

So if I use the signal from the rear doors to run the front and rear doors off the amp, and use the signal from the dash speakers to run through the amp for the dash speakers, it should work then? Like I said, not going for insane quality, just decent sounding and more volume.

@ramridge, do you know what hz the "alpine" sub is wired for? Simplest way to get sub signal would be a LOC from the sub hookup I assume

 

[PX8]

So if I use the signal from the rear doors to run the front and rear doors off the amp, and use the signal from the dash speakers to run through the amp for the dash speakers, it should work then? Like I said, not going for insane quality, just decent sounding and more volume.

@ramridge, do you know what hz the "alpine" sub is wired for? Simplest way to get sub signal would be a LOC from the sub hookup I assume

It's actually a lot easier than that really. You can just run the signals from the rear speakers into an amp that excepts speaker level inputs (very important to read the details to see if the amp you are interested in will do this) and then if you have enough channels (six channel amp for fronts, rears, and dash as an example) all of your speakers would have full range frequency response and most of these amps would have three separate gain controls and crossovers. Most will actually let you choose from low pass or high pass crossovers too on certain channels if you want to use the same amp to run subs.

The other option is to get a line out converter, which isn't all that much different for a simple line out converter, but if you get into some of the signal data processors or multi channel out LOC's they have a whole lot going on and me, God, and Jesus couldn't explain all the options on a forum.

Several of your Dodge buddies on here use one that's only about 30 bucks on some pretty powerful systems.