Couple quick questions regarding the ESC(traction control) and light bulb out message….

[John Jensen]

What is sofa king tuning?…lol.

SFT is dishonest and incompetent. They Have changed their name to Optimus-Tunes

 

[Wild one]

What is sofa king tuning?…lol.

But yeah, no offense to wild one, I feel like I’d have to believe what the EVIC says but then again, until we get some snow around here to make some icy roads, I won’t be able to test this theory out because I’m not taking my truck into a muddy pasture somewhere. Between my street tires and my 44–44 transfer case, I’d probably end up buried… Lol.

The only time you can switch traction control off totally with the 44-44 is when it's in the low 4X4 modes,and you're under 40 mph,once you switch to 4hi or 4 auto,it doesn't completely turn off.
You can try it even on dry pavement,hold the button down in 4 auto and see if you get that message on your evic then accelerate to above 40 mph

 

[corneileous]

The only time you can switch traction control off totally with the 44-44 is when it's in the low 4X4 modes,and you're under 40 mph,once you switch to 4hi or 4 auto,it doesn't completely turn off.
You can try it even on dry pavement,hold the button down in 4 auto and see if you get that message on your evic then accelerate to above 40 mph

It doesn’t work on 4-Auto. 4-Auto works just like 2-HIGH where if you press and hold the traction control button, it does nothing. No message on the screen about the ESC being disabled but when shifted into 4-LOCK/4-HIGH, again- if you press and hold the traction control button for about 5 seconds or so, the traction control indicator light will show up in the middle of of the tach and it will read “ESC Disabled” on the EVIC screen. When you shift into low range, it does this automatically and also disables the auto-park.

Keep in mind that when I learned all this, this was while sitting in my driveway with the truck idling and then pressing and holding the TC button after shifting the transfer case into 4-HI. I wasn’t driving so yeah, I would imagine that if I took off somewhere and once my speed got above a certain amount that the TC and ESC would probably automatically come back on.

 

[Wild one]

It doesn’t work on 4-Auto. 4-Auto works just like 2-HIGH where if you press and hold the traction control button, it does nothing. No message on the screen about the ESC being disabled but when shifted into 4-LOCK/4-HIGH, again- if you press and hold the traction control button for about 5 seconds or so, the traction control indicator light will show up in the middle of of the tach and it will read “ESC Disabled” on the EVIC screen. When you shift into low range, it does this automatically and also disables the auto-park.

Keep in mind that when I learned all this, this was while sitting in my driveway with the truck idling and then pressing and holding the TC button after shifting the transfer case into 4-HI. I wasn’t driving so yeah, I would imagine that if I took off somewhere and once my speed got above a certain amount that the TC and ESC would probably automatically come back on.

Sounds like you answered your own question then

 

[corneileous]

Sounds like you answered your own question then

Well, I hope so, but you were the one saying, making it sound like it anyways, that it didn’t matter what came across my screen that, the only way to disable the ESC and the traction control was to either pull the fuse or buy that wiring harness from that guy in that YouTube video you shared which I’m now assuming that if you want it to stay disabled, that’s where where pulling the fuse or buying his kit comes in to play so if I confused you into thinking I was saying just simply pushing the button on my dash disabled it completely and kept it disabled no matter what, then I apologize.

 

[Wild one]

Well, I hope so, but you were the one saying, making it sound like it anyways, that it didn’t matter what came across my screen that, the only way to disable the ESC and the traction control was to either pull the fuse or buy that wiring harness from that guy in that YouTube video you shared which I’m now assuming that if you want it to stay disabled, that’s where where pulling the fuse or buying his kit comes in to play so if I confused you into thinking I was saying just simply pushing the button on my dash disabled it completely and kept it disabled no matter what, then I apologize.

I was under the impression you wanted it off in 4auto or at higher speeds,you weren't really clear on what you wanted it to do.As long as you got it figured out,that's all that matters

 

[corneileous]

I was under the impression you wanted it off in 4auto or at higher speeds,you weren't really clear on what you wanted it to do.As long as you got it figured out,that's all that matters

Naw, never did I say or ask about either of those, I was originally just only asking about what effect does having the ESC disabled in the trucks with the Auto-4x4 transfer cases when actually in low range or 4-HI being that I had just learned I could do that but it’s cool… just a simple misunderstanding….

 

[Brandon-w]

If I took my truck offroad I would but I heard that kit of his will burn up the clutch actuator in transfer case you run it continuously for over 10 minutes and that there’s actually a disclaimer that comes with the kit telling you that.

The disclaimer is for the relay. I was having issues with testing in the beginning and wanted to ensure it was good. I have since redesigned, new models from 2020 on are good to go used mine over 4 hrs no issues. The disclaimer was to cover my a$$ in case something did happen. On some trucks the power was not ignition controlled so if you left it on it'd kill your battery.

 

[John Jensen]

The disclaimer is for the relay. I was having issues with testing in the beginning and wanted to ensure it was good. I have since redesigned, new models from 2020 on are good to go used mine over 4 hrs no issues. The disclaimer was to cover my a$$ in case something did happen. On some trucks the power was not ignition controlled so if you left it on it'd kill your battery.

Hello Brandon,
I have one of your early switches. So far no burned relay and is not ignition controlled. The only glitch is the switch's blue light only works intermittently. A great switch, saved my butt more than once, and makes backing trailers over that curb easy peasy.

 

[Brandon-w]

Hello Brandon,
I have one of your early switches. So far no burned relay and is not ignition controlled. The only glitch is the switch's blue light only works intermittently. A great switch, saved my butt more than once, and makes backing trailers over that curb easy peasy.

Hey John you may have been on the edge of my change over. If you have a clearish brown 40 or 60 amp relay you have a new design.
Ill keep an eye on the switches see if anyone gives any feedback on the light. If you'd like I could ship you a new switch.

 

[Wild one]

Here's how to turn off ESC/TCS in any drive mode

That's a good way to set it up John,but i think i'd of just used a 40 amp rocker switch with a 30 amp inline fuse instead.

https://www.amazon.ca/Light-40Amp-Rocker-Toggle-Switch/dp/B07R74BNHC?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tAaNap0eJD-dnDXqwSs5hkCeg4oYPDALcvmw1BozgLHgUAlHab9oPSsAQ1_nSTRna4aK-heklKpUpY4fpTHLT8PFbqmEDYrDe0KHhEcZOWyEGxexDCubFTV69tAO8RmSVT1H6Wg2Dtag4o-Bs41ysyWAmtBBMCRSNPoJYmJ-0VpJZl7-bNlMmeSHhl0MMCKcCjvkGwJjaLENfZostGwbkhVGZ8xI-AV5pfH3HeCTiRD0-l1_YDXikBcBcz1sVV89dNGAaZoiHPjFod7fWGOdEggCyUygewWjFI9CcF6tiTS1BFdn4snVfa0z7ExuSMfmG5etJRR3b0YJLwbkCPWTJh9BnXr4lLz7G_uRgNpY7DlCSRJVa8cMWr__rbBmxUXrdMg-bWCnKPYPwKdHWYSKB9dmlNa1YEFKq6pdWFTD4aEHG1kH2srhgqLNq9RfIblH.b5iLsMl8W51vHLOqgcK6osGhEnxJ0jS-HIOKdG26rUg&dib_tag=se&keywords=12+volt+40+amp+rocker+switches&qid=1734912464&sr=8-31

 

[John Jensen]

That's a good way to set it up John,but i think i'd of just used a 40 amp rocker switch with a 30 amp inline fuse instead.

https://www.amazon.ca/Light-40Amp-Rocker-Toggle-Switch/dp/B07R74BNHC?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tAaNap0eJD-dnDXqwSs5hkCeg4oYPDALcvmw1BozgLHgUAlHab9oPSsAQ1_nSTRna4aK-heklKpUpY4fpTHLT8PFbqmEDYrDe0KHhEcZOWyEGxexDCubFTV69tAO8RmSVT1H6Wg2Dtag4o-Bs41ysyWAmtBBMCRSNPoJYmJ-0VpJZl7-bNlMmeSHhl0MMCKcCjvkGwJjaLENfZostGwbkhVGZ8xI-AV5pfH3HeCTiRD0-l1_YDXikBcBcz1sVV89dNGAaZoiHPjFod7fWGOdEggCyUygewWjFI9CcF6tiTS1BFdn4snVfa0z7ExuSMfmG5etJRR3b0YJLwbkCPWTJh9BnXr4lLz7G_uRgNpY7DlCSRJVa8cMWr__rbBmxUXrdMg-bWCnKPYPwKdHWYSKB9dmlNa1YEFKq6pdWFTD4aEHG1kH2srhgqLNq9RfIblH.b5iLsMl8W51vHLOqgcK6osGhEnxJ0jS-HIOKdG26rUg&dib_tag=se&keywords=12+volt+40+amp+rocker+switches&qid=1734912464&sr=8-31

That would be the easy or normal way. I had the spare Homelink button and didn't want to drill the dash for an on/off switch.

 

[Wild one]

That would be the easy or normal way. I had the spare Homelink button and didn't want to drill the dash for an on/off switch.

Gotcha