Credit union ext drivetrain warranty??

[Friedchicken]

Anyone have a 3rd party extended warranty? My credit union that I financed my truck loan just told me about it. Its through route 66 extended warranty. She said its $30 more dollars a month and extends my loan by 3 months, or $1600. Pays 100% of drivetrain up to $5000. 50% of electrical and cooling repairs. (Parts and labor both). Anyone ever heard of route 66 warranty? Or had any good luck with 3rd party ext warranties? I think she said the warranty is good for 3 years. I have 156k on my 2011. Only had it a month, runs great. Has a tick/knock when cold but goes away.
Any advice or experience is appreciated. Honestly doesnt sound too bad of a deal, but alot of things dont at first

 

[Friedchicken]

Looks like that's $1600 AND $30 a month, not or $30 a month

 

[tidefan1967]

You left out the most important parts which is for how many years/miles the warranty coverage actually is good for. I would think for $1600 it can't be for more than 24 months and 24K miles. I would pass if it was me and put that extra money in your savings account. The best insurance you can buy for a 2011 RAM with 156K miles on it is to get all those fluids converted over to Redline. The most important being is getting some Redline 5W30 motor oil in the crankcase.

 

[Friedchicken]

You left out the most important parts which is for how many years/miles the warranty coverage actually is good for. I would think for $1600 it can't be for more than 24 months and 24K miles. I would pass if it was me and put that extra money in your savings account. The best insurance you can buy for a 2011 RAM with 156K miles on it is to get all those fluids converted over to Redline. The most important being is getting some Redline 5W30 motor oil in the crankcase.

It was for 3 years. I dont remember the mileage. But I was thinking since my loan is for 5 years, it would increase my entire loan of 5 and only be good for 3?? Yeah i think I'm gonna pass. I only have about 500 more miles til I'm at 3000 miles on this royal purple 5 20w and going to 5 30w. Maybe redline, maybe just a conventional high mileage. Pennzoil. Not sure which yet. I live in northern oregon. Gets low 20s here in the winter. Should I switch back to 5 20w in the winter? Or 5 30w all year?

 

[16RamHemi]

low 20s? im in maine. i saw 17 below this winter. im running redline 5w30. my tick went away right off and motor quieted down after about 1400 miles on redline. that with royal purple 20820 filter. best combo for the hemi in my opinion. going off my real world results. i posted my results in the synthetic oil thread. around page 2990 ÷/-. def get that rp oil out

 

[tidefan1967]

5W30 is good to -35F I believe? Low 20's for lows or highs? I live on the coast in SC and we get 20's for lows in the winter so you should be good with 5W30. I would put that Redline 5W30 in there and run it for 8-10K miles with the appropriate filter of course and then have your oil analyzed by Blackstone to see what kind of shape she's really in internally and go from there.

 

[Scottly]

The most important being is getting some Redline 5W30 motor oil in the crankcase.

It's 2019, and we still read statements like this.

 

[tidefan1967]

It's 2019, and we still read statements like this.


View attachment 162599

I've actually heard it work its magic with my own two ears. I also get sick of hearing people say how they've been using the same brand and weight of oil for the last twenty and its never let them down when in reality the specs and additives on their favorite oil has probably changed half a dozen times in those 20 years, some of that stuff for the better and some not. I also wouldn't go 12K miles on an oil change in a Cummins either but that's just me.

 

[Scottly]

I also get sick of hearing people say how they've been using the same brand and weight of oil for the last twenty and its never let them down when in reality the specs and additives on their favorite oil has probably changed half a dozen times in those 20 years, some of that stuff for the better .

True dat.

 

[goldeneyee]

I would run as fast as I can from any extended warranty unless its mopar. These so called warranty companies try anything not to pay. I talk from experience. Just look up the complaints/reviews on these companies.

 

[indept]

I would run as fast as I can from any extended warranty unless its mopar. These so called warranty companies try anything not to pay. I talk from experience. Just look up the complaints/reviews on these companies.

Especially since you're paying over $1600 ( since it's in your loan they're charging interest on it) for 5000 max coverage on something breaking which may not happen.

 

[Hemi832]

I have Vision Warranty through my credit union and they just pd $4000 for my camshaft \ lifters repair from Mac Haik Dodge.

 

[huntergreen]

I have Vision Warranty through my credit union and they just pd $4000 for my camshaft \ lifters repair from Mac Haik Dodge.

Would they have covered the cost of a new engine if needed ?

 

[Hemi832]

If there were more than just the camshaft and lifters messed up, but they checked everything and it did not need anything else.

 

[Random_Walk]

I got mine through my credit union (First Tech CU, Oregon), and paid a straight $1200 for mine, rolled into the note, which is bumper-to-bumper with a small deductible for a period of four years *after* factory B2B runs out next year.

 

[18harvest]

Read the fine print .Most third party warranty are lkq for major replacements say if you have 70000 miles and need a engine they will stick a used engine with 70000 or less in.hate to say it but for anything major even fca will try to get out of the warranty.better keep your oil receipts I've seen engine warrant denied because of no proof of oil changes.

 

[Hemi832]

Read the fine print .Most third party warranty are lkq for major replacements say if you have 70000 miles and need a engine they will stick a used engine with 70000 or less in.hate to say it but for anything major even fca will try to get out of the warranty.better keep your oil receipts I've seen engine warrant denied because of no proof of oil changes.

This is true, had to provide my records.

 

[RLJ10X]

"They" didn't pay $4000. Subtract whatever the total cost of your warranty is, which includes the interest that you paid, plus deductible, if any, and that's what "they" paid. So let's say you paid $1600 like the plan the OP was proposed. Then let's suppose there is aprox $100 interest on the original $1600, for a total of $1700. If you have no deductible, you came out $2300 ahead.

$2300 return on a $1700 investment is really impressive. But that only works out in the consumer's favor if you have a very expensive repair bill.

 

[Hemi832]

Well in my situation , as you said, "it works out"

 

[JSMITH8505]

I sold cars for about 11 years. First, to clarify a big misconception. Manufacturers arent allowed to sell an extended warranty for their own product. They arent warranties, they are service contracts. They are ALL aftermarket. Some are labeled like "(Manufacturer name) extended service contract by Acme" or the like.

With that said, NEVER finance a service contract, prepaid maintenance contracts, or if you can help it, sales tax because it doesnt add value to the vehicle, and should you sell it before its paid off, you'll be that much deeper in the red. The average length of ownership of cars in the US is 39 months. The average car loan is 68 months.

Part 2:
If Your vehicle has a 3 yr/36,000 mile warranty, buying a 5 year/60,000 mile warranty is really a 2 year/24000 mile extension. Most service contracts start on the day you buy them, and not AFTER the manufacturer's warranty ends. Check the fine print. Ive heard Finance guys at a dealership say it begins AFTER the factory warranty, because they know theyll be gone and working at another dealership in 3 years when you find out otherwise. Good luck complaining, they'll just point to the fine print and say "Read here, the dealership cant be responsible for your mistake".

3. If you do have a claim, you'll almost always have a deductible to pay out of pocket. Most extended service contracts have a $100 deductible per ISSUE, (NOT service visit). Add that to your costs too. They count on this keeping you from claiming so many claims, especially those less than $100.

Personally, I would NEVER get one because they only repair the bare minimum to keep your vehicle going. Need a new transmission? Theyll replace the worn/broken component, not the whole thing.
They arent worth the paper theyre wrotten on .
Avoid.