I ran power from the fuse box under the steering wheel. Remove 2 small bolts on the cover under the steering wheel. There are 4 press in clips one in each corner holding the cover. Pull on one corner until it pops out then then go to the next corner. There are some cables attached to the bottom of the cover so you can't remove it completely but you can move it out of the way to so you can reach the fuses. There are small numbers on the frame next to each of the fuses. The users guide has a table for what each fuse is for matching with the number. I used a fuse tap that came with the dash cam wiring kit. My kit came with a variety of fuse tap sizes so I could choose the one that fit. If your kit doesn't have the fuse tap (micro fuse size) then you will have to get it separately. You remove one of the fuses and insert it in the tap along with a second fuse that came with the kit. You then insert the tap into the fuse that you removed. I removed a number 5 fuse in the upper right hand corner of the fuse box. This only gets power in the ignition position. There are other fuses that have constant power if that's what you want. I attached the ground cable to one of the bolts holding the dash to a metal part on the upper left side. You can run your power cable from under the dash to the drivers door frame and run it under the trim up to the wind shield then to the rear view mirror. You can press the cable under the headliner to hold it in place and keep it hidden. This set up works well to keep the power cable in place and hidden.
If your going to use the USB port for power, use a cable that only transfers power and not data. I tried using a data cable and my dash cam kept thinking it was connecting to a computer and would cycle on and off trying to connect.
