DDM Tuning Saber ProX 55W Accu/V2

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bigred90gt

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I bought a set for my Alpharex projector lights. LEDs are notoriously poor in projectors. I originally bought Hikari Ultra and Katana for the alpharex, and while they had a perfect sharp cutoff and beam pattern, the distance projection was nonexistent. To the point that it felt dangerous driving at freeway speeds on dark backroads (which I travel every day to work), and even in the city with the ambient light (I live near Houston in a town with multiple refineries, it's never really dark outside). I installed these and they are leaps and bounds better than the Hikari and Katana, still with a perfect beam pattern and cutoff, but still not quite as good as HID. While I did not experience the same feeling of unsafe at speed, I still was not comfortable. I prefer a strong light source that projects fully to the cutoff, and LED in projectors just do not offer that. They still faded out, just a bit further in the distance. I relocated them to my high beams and put my 5500K HID with 45W ballasts back in the low beams. When I switch to high beams, they light up well, but the cutoff from the low beams is still plainly visible as the projection of light is just that much stronger.

If you live in an urban/city environment with a lot of ambient light, you should be fine as there is typically no problem seeing at night given all of the city lights. If you live in a more secluded area where you are relying on them to see hazards in the distance, I personally would recommend not using LED if you have projectors. If you have reflector headlights, cannot make any recommendations as I pulled my reflectors within a few months of owning the truck 5 years ago.

As for color temp, I would say they are definitely higher than 4500k visually, but far better and a bit warmer than typical LEDs. They are nowhere near as blueish as the Hikari or Katana, but nowhere near as warm as my 5500k 45W HID combo, which I estimate to be somewhere between 4500k-5000k due to the higher wattage.
 
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Rotciv

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I currently have the Morimoto XB 2.0 and while the light output is fine, I'm not much fan of the style it has, given that my truck has chrome in some areas. I plan on acquiring some OEM chrome projectors. I'll look into retrofitting the MLED 2.0 since I like the simplicity of LED. I'll still consider getting a pair of DDM Tuning for my fog lights.
 
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heckcat9

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At $180, I would just get HIDs for less.

How is DDM's quality these days? I used to get HIDs and angel eyes for my E36s from DDM in the early 2000s and they were decent. Are their HID kits good to go nowadays?
 
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Rotciv

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At $180, I would just get HIDs for less.

How is DDM's quality these days? I used to get HIDs and angel eyes for my E36s from DDM in the early 2000s and they were decent. Are their HID kits good to go nowadays?
I would not know. Never used HID in my life. Always purchased LED from various companies for the simplicity and broader usage.
 

rb5064

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I bought a set for my Alpharex projector lights. LEDs are notoriously poor in projectors. I originally bought Hikari Ultra and Katana for the alpharex, and while they had a perfect sharp cutoff and beam pattern, the distance projection was nonexistent. To the point that it felt dangerous driving at freeway speeds on dark backroads (which I travel every day to work), and even in the city with the ambient light (I live near Houston in a town with multiple refineries, it's never really dark outside). I installed these and they are leaps and bounds better than the Hikari and Katana, still with a perfect beam pattern and cutoff, but still not quite as good as HID. While I did not experience the same feeling of unsafe at speed, I still was not comfortable. I prefer a strong light source that projects fully to the cutoff, and LED in projectors just do not offer that. They still faded out, just a bit further in the distance. I relocated them to my high beams and put my 5500K HID with 45W ballasts back in the low beams. When I switch to high beams, they light up well, but the cutoff from the low beams is still plainly visible as the projection of light is just that much stronger.

If you live in an urban/city environment with a lot of ambient light, you should be fine as there is typically no problem seeing at night given all of the city lights. If you live in a more secluded area where you are relying on them to see hazards in the distance, I personally would recommend not using LED if you have projectors. If you have reflector headlights, cannot make any recommendations as I pulled my reflectors within a few months of owning the truck 5 years ago.

As for color temp, I would say they are definitely higher than 4500k visually, but far better and a bit warmer than typical LEDs. They are nowhere near as blueish as the Hikari or Katana, but nowhere near as warm as my 5500k 45W HID combo, which I estimate to be somewhere between 4500k-5000k due to the higher wattage.

How much of a delay is there when switching back from the hi beam LED's to the HID low beams? In my past experience with HID, there was always a delay in the HID bulbs firing and then warming up to full output.
 

hunterdan

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How much of a delay is there when switching back from the hi beam LED's to the HID low beams? In my past experience with HID, there was always a delay in the HID bulbs firing and then warming up to full output.
There is no delay if he is setup for quad headlights. The lowbeam will never turn off, even with the highs on.
 

Senodil

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I just replaced my 55w HID's with the "ddm tning saber proX 55w" and they were a significant upgrade (it appears my HID bulb's got some damage to the glass and were effecting the output intensity). Truth be told, I recently installed the Diode Dynamics SS3 PRO Led Fog Light Kit and it made me realize how bad my headlights were. The DDM Saber pro are good headlights but once I turn on my SS3's everything else is useless including my 20" lightbar, high beams, etc.... Although my fogs are properly adjusted I get flashed immediately, so now I reserve them for empty roads.
 
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