Diff and Susp questions

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RollinThunder

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new to the whole truck/ram scene.
my areas have always been Jeep and bikes.

found a really good deal on a 03 SLT QC with the 5.7L Hemi.
For $7500, and it had 47k miles( verified with carfax)

so i took it in to the dealership for a tire rotation and possible alignment( slight shake at 65mph) and i walk away with a $5000 quote. that didnt even count the fluid changes and tune up!

$2200- they told me the front Control Arms were shot. lowers could be rebuilt but uppers had to be replaced. i found the pieces at Advance for not even $500... what gives?

2000-2800- apparently the C-clip on my LSD has come off and they wanted 2000 to rebuild it or 2800 for a whole new axle from jasper.
* they quoted this having only looked through the fill hole....?

now I have put over 1400 miles on this truck, i dont get very good mileage11.4 currently (full city never above 45) and 14.8 on my last HWY trip. but i know its a truck...lol
my thinking tells me if something was that messed up in my differential i would know it by now??? i pulled the plug the other day and the fluid doesnt seem to have any flakes...


any input from others who have experience either of these? i will have a good amount of money coming in the next 6 months ( VA), but i dont have any right now.
 

toofart

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so i took it in to the dealership


That was your first mistake. Take it to a good independent shop that has a good reputation. Do not go to a dealer again.

The bushings and ball joints could be shot, but you only need to change those that are. Again, a good shop will tell you.

As for the rear diff -- that is hilarious. If you doubt the c-clip is there or not, have a shop remove the rear disks. If the axles simply pull out, you have big problems. If not, put it all back together and go celebrate.

If you have some spare time, now is the time to buy some manuals, some tools and start wrenching on this yourself :)
 

toofart

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As for mileage, check that you don't have a stuck brake or e-brake. Then check the usuals, filters, all fresh fluids, clean throttle body, check the plugs, etc.
 

Redtruck-VA

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You are up for some great bonding time with your 03, do your own work and you will appreciate the old girl more. Often the term "C" clip is spoken, but really what they are talking about are the LSD clutch retainers. These are harden steel pieces that can break off and float around in the housing causing occasionally serious damage. First you need to determine if you have the LSD differential. The open rearend doesn't have the clips, so they can't break and be a problem. If you do have LSD, then pull the cover and inspect the differential. Probably time for a oil change anyway. The gas mileage can be a lot of things, but I would clean the TB, change the spark plugs and wires, replace the air filter, PCV, maybe add a CAI, install the TMR mod, pwr wire and maybe add a 180 stat. Then there's the LP booster, Y pipe and any straight through performance muffler. Find a used SC3815 for around $140 as it is all that a 03 can use and you should be steadily improving mileage as you go along. Good luck...
 

BigSloth

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new to the whole truck/ram scene.
my areas have always been Jeep and bikes.

found a really good deal on a 03 SLT QC with the 5.7L Hemi.
For $7500, and it had 47k miles( verified with carfax)

so i took it in to the dealership for a tire rotation and possible alignment( slight shake at 65mph) and i walk away with a $5000 quote. that didnt even count the fluid changes and tune up!

$2200- they told me the front Control Arms were shot. lowers could be rebuilt but uppers had to be replaced. i found the pieces at Advance for not even $500... what gives?

2000-2800- apparently the C-clip on my LSD has come off and they wanted 2000 to rebuild it or 2800 for a whole new axle from jasper.
* they quoted this having only looked through the fill hole....?

now I have put over 1400 miles on this truck, i dont get very good mileage11.4 currently (full city never above 45) and 14.8 on my last HWY trip. but i know its a truck...lol
my thinking tells me if something was that messed up in my differential i would know it by now??? i pulled the plug the other day and the fluid doesnt seem to have any flakes...


any input from others who have experience either of these? i will have a good amount of money coming in the next 6 months ( VA), but i dont have any right now.

Nice purchase price!!

As for the quote. You are leaving out several things here. One is the difference between dealer OEM part pricing and aftermarket part pricing. There is usually a substantial gap here, but generally you get a higher quality part that they will fully warranty. Second is labor. Its quite the chore to R&R all ball joints and control arm bushings. A lot of labor hours at or around the industry standard $100/hr labor rate adds up quickly.

They are undoubtedly talking about the clutch retainers as redtruckVA stated. These can be inspected without even removing the fill plug, as there are testing procedures in the ESM and tech assist programs to check for proper operation of the LSD unit. these tests are fairly accurate, and dealer's will check for them every time because this is a common problem that affects hundreds of thousands of units, and can cause serious damage or an accident if left untreated. Verify you indeed have the LSD, sometimes the computer systems that guide the techs are wrong about the equipment options, but none can detect a previous owner swapping it out for a non LSD.

I always recommend in situations like these to either do the work yourself and have someone do the alignment, or shop around and compare prices but make sure you are getting either OEM or equivalent quality parts. As for the rear diff, I would seize this opportunity to re gear and put a real locker back there. A good driveline and axle shop will charge around 550-1000 in labor if you supply the parts.

That was your first mistake. Take it to a good independent shop that has a good reputation. Do not go to a dealer again.

The bushings and ball joints could be shot, but you only need to change those that are. Again, a good shop will tell you.

As for the rear diff -- that is hilarious. If you doubt the c-clip is there or not, have a shop remove the rear disks. If the axles simply pull out, you have big problems. If not, put it all back together and go celebrate.

If you have some spare time, now is the time to buy some manuals, some tools and start wrenching on this yourself :)

I really hate that people have this misconception and go around forcing it on others simply because they disagree with the pricing or the amount of recommendations when the vehicle is serviced.

The simple truth is that at dealerships, the vehicle is inspected by techs that are trained on that specific brand, we know what to look for. We have access to specifications that others dont, tools, procedures, bulletins, service manuals, and traning that allows us to give the vehicle a thorough inspection and make the needed recommendations.

The technician is held accountable for any and all missed recommendations, so few things get missed. It is the job of the service writer to use discretion in what is pertinent to the situation and discuss it with the customer. Often times they tend to present the whole deal first then if you are not interested, get down to what is a safety concern, or the original reason you brought it in.

OP- I'm sorry for hoggin up thread space here, but I don't like seeing misinformed people try to spread the love.

You are up for some great bonding time with your 03, do your own work and you will appreciate the old girl more. Often the term "C" clip is spoken, but really what they are talking about are the LSD clutch retainers. These are harden steel pieces that can break off and float around in the housing causing occasionally serious damage. First you need to determine if you have the LSD differential. The open rearend doesn't have the clips, so they can't break and be a problem. If you do have LSD, then pull the cover and inspect the differential. Probably time for a oil change anyway. The gas mileage can be a lot of things, but I would clean the TB, change the spark plugs and wires, replace the air filter, PCV, maybe add a CAI, install the TMR mod, pwr wire and maybe add a 180 stat. Then there's the LP booster, Y pipe and any straight through performance muffler. Find a used SC3815 for around $140 as it is all that a 03 can use and you should be steadily improving mileage as you go along. Good luck...

Best advice so far.
 

Redtruck-VA

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They are undoubtedly talking about the clutch retainers as redtruckVA stated. These can be inspected without even removing the fill plug, as there are testing procedures in the ESM and tech assist programs to check for proper operation of the LSD unit. these tests are fairly accurate, and dealer's will check for them every time because this is a common problem that affects hundreds of thousands of units,

I would be very interested hearing more about how this is done. There is nothing electrical about the differential other than the VSS and the retainers as I understand it do not affect the operation of the clutch. I am not a big fan of dealerships of any flavor, having dealt with my local dodge dealer since 04 has not been very satisfying and is more about their integrity then training.
 

BigSloth

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I'm not sure of the exact procedure for dodge, just hearsay from the techs that work there.

I know its possible for nissan titans with the LSD, not the e locker. Requires a bit more than what would be done in a normal inspection, removing the driveshaft, placig a jackstand under the LR wheel, using a beam type torque wrench to measure the resistance of turning the pinion nut.


I'm not saying dealers are the best place ever, and some are corrupt as ****. There is one around here like that. I just dont like that because of those corrupt dealers, everyone thinks that all of them are like that. I apologize if I've stepped on toes or offended anyone, just my perspective from being one of the guys that relies on someone actually bringing something to a dealer to make my living.

Carry on.
 
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RollinThunder

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thanks guys, its a lot of info.. and to be honest i am probably gonna have to just drive it until i get some money in. At this point i don't even have the cash flow to open up the ass end and re fill the fluid properly.

i agree with both sides. Ive known too many dealerships that would run up bills and replace things that really didn't need it. most try to scare customers into doing the work. Ive also known a tech or two that would help me do work in their off time( i love to learn).

not to mention i rear ended someone today... freaking lost old people stopping in the middle of the road. :flipthebird: grrrr

right now i have the stupid Ebay twin short tube intake thats sucking hot air so im sure that along with plugs and stuff is killing my mileage.

What is the TMR mod? and LP booster???

one last question, what air pressure do you guys run? i really need to get some chalk and test, but i think im at 40 front and 38 rear.


oh and i will carry on Sloth. i miss my Taurus.
 

Redtruck-VA

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TMR = Torque Management Request
LP = Transmission Line Pressure.
 

BigSloth

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thanks guys, its a lot of info.. and to be honest i am probably gonna have to just drive it until i get some money in. At this point i don't even have the cash flow to open up the ass end and re fill the fluid properly.

i agree with both sides. Ive known too many dealerships that would run up bills and replace things that really didn't need it. most try to scare customers into doing the work. Ive also known a tech or two that would help me do work in their off time( i love to learn).

not to mention i rear ended someone today... freaking lost old people stopping in the middle of the road. :flipthebird: grrrr

right now i have the stupid Ebay twin short tube intake thats sucking hot air so im sure that along with plugs and stuff is killing my mileage.

What is the TMR mod? and LP booster???

one last question, what air pressure do you guys run? i really need to get some chalk and test, but i think im at 40 front and 38 rear.


oh and i will carry on Sloth. i miss my Taurus.

40 front, 38 rear is a bit high unless they're bigger all terrains or mud tires. What size and type? I'm on 305/50/20 nitto street tires, and I run 35 in the front 33 rear unless I'm towing or racing.
 
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RollinThunder

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LOL, i guess so..

man i cant wait to get my money in, i have the PDF of the service manual, just no time to work on it, cause im working 7 days a week... FML

are the TMR and LP a common issue? or is it just diy upgrade?

oh and im running 275/55/r20 ( flower petals..??) with yokohama geolander AT/S...
 

03MopaRamman

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All i can add here is that when it comes to certain parts on these vehicles, OEM is what is required, as I have learned sometimes the hard way, and the 03,s although tempermental....lol...great speller are a good year Hemi vehicle to work on and it gets expensive as a hobby but not having a payment on the Ol girl allows for the dough needed as required for the other Hemi and the Pentastar in the Household.
 
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RollinThunder

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40 front, 38 rear is a bit high unless they're bigger all terrains or mud tires. What size and type? I'm on 305/50/20 nitto street tires, and I run 35 in the front 33 rear unless I'm towing or racing.

Yea i do remember my PSI droppping considerably when i moved up from 235 to 31s and then 33s on my Jeep, but then again that one was more spread out as far as weight...
 
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RollinThunder

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You are up for some great bonding time with your 03, do your own work and you will appreciate the old girl more. Often the term "C" clip is spoken, but really what they are talking about are the LSD clutch retainers. These are harden steel pieces that can break off and float around in the housing causing occasionally serious damage. First you need to determine if you have the LSD differential. The open rearend doesn't have the clips, so they can't break and be a problem. If you do have LSD, then pull the cover and inspect the differential. Probably time for a oil change anyway. The gas mileage can be a lot of things, but I would clean the TB, change the spark plugs and wires, replace the air filter, PCV, maybe add a CAI, install the TMR mod, pwr wire and maybe add a 180 stat. Then there's the LP booster, Y pipe and any straight through performance muffler. Find a used SC3815 for around $140 as it is all that a 03 can use and you should be steadily improving mileage as you go along. Good luck...

Noticed your comment about the tuning. Also read through another thread ( the ******* 03 thread... Lol) and I have to ask. Even super chips advertises more than just the 3815. For example they advertise the 3865, and the 3714, mileage XS. All of which reference the 03 hemi. Why do y'all say the only one is the 3815??
 

Redtruck-VA

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Noticed your comment about the tuning. Also read through another thread ( the ******* 03 thread... Lol) and I have to ask. Even super chips advertises more than just the 3815. For example they advertise the 3865, and the 3714, mileage XS. All of which reference the 03 hemi. Why do y'all say the only one is the 3815??

The SC3815 is a much more common tuner and sold more than the SC3714 and they are relatively easy to find. The SC3865 is the 3815 replacement tuner with the main difference being more memory to support the trans tunes available for 04+ model trucks. The 03 can't use the trans tunes so doesn't need the newer or more expensive SC3865.
 
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RollinThunder

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The SC3815 is a much more common tuner and sold more than the SC3714 and they are relatively easy to find. The SC3865 is the 3815 replacement tuner with the main difference being more memory to support the trans tunes available for 04+ model trucks. The 03 can't use the trans tunes so doesn't need the newer or more expensive SC3865.

Thank You good sir. sounds like im very limited on what i can do.
 

Redtruck-VA

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Thank You good sir. sounds like im very limited on what i can do.

Only by your imagination. Tell us what you want to do and there is plenty of experience here to point you in the right direction.
 
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RollinThunder

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Only by your imagination. Tell us what you want to do and there is plenty of experience here to point you in the right direction.

once i get my $ i want the following
intake, bed cover, exhaust, cam and tune. thats it.
i already have my cover picked out.
 

Redtruck-VA

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There are some combo's that work pretty good. SC to adjust rpm/speed limiter, using a performance tune (can) with a piggyback to pull fuel for idle. Then the 03 can use the "High Idle" mod that'll give you 630-650 idle warmed up. This worked well using a Crazy Spartan 112lsa. Trans: use a higher stall converter, VB mod, LP booster and HD cooler.
 

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