Differential oil change, pull plug or remove cover?

[Awall]

Hi all,

Looking for some advice on what would be the proper way to change front and rear differential oil.

Looking to do the first change on my 2017 Ram 3500.

Differential has a plug. Should I just drain the diff with the plug and refill?

Would it be better to remove the covers and clean the differential. If so, would using a cleaner harm the pinion seal?

Also looking for advice on filling, fill till overflow or is it less? Would overflow be overfilling?

Lastly, should I avoid Mopar oil? I was gonna just refill with Mopar but read that it might be garbage and I'd be better off refilling with Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline or some other brand.

Thanks

 

[tidefan1967]

Personally unless I'm having problems or hearing strange noises I just do a drain and fill and that's all I've ever done unless I was swapping gears, changing the pinion seal ,etc. I did have to pull the cover on a ford 8.8 a few months back (sisters Crown Vic) to replace a bad axle bearing. A lot of guys would disagree I'm sure but i don't really think its necessary. I would run the Redline or the Amsoil severe gear because they are the best and you don't have to worry about friction modifier because its already in there unlike the Mopar where it has to be added separately.

 

[JB1]

I used red line in my diff

 

[R.L.K.]

Lots of good info here in this thread linked below [emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji16]







https://www.ramforum.com/index.php?posts/1276334

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[Awall]

Thanks for the info.

Leads to another question. This friction modifier, is it the same as LSD additive.

Dodge dealership never mentioned having to add anything to oil when looking up my VIN. Here's what the Manual says in the photo. From that it appears LS additive is not required for any 3500 differential, LS or not?

Thanks again, just want to make sure I put the proper lubricant in.

 

[JMod45]

I just read in another thread that the LSD on 2500/3500 axles are mechanical, so there is no friction modifier needed. The 1500s have clutches, so it is necessary in those.

Just saw that you asked. Friction modifier and the additive they are talking about are the same thing.

 

[Burla]

I'd only use Redline gl-5 oil or Amsoil Severe Gear if it were me. It will mix just fine with current oil, but if you remove the cover you can get it all out and look at metal shavings. If you put magnets on the cover it should keep any shavings away from the gears, whether you take cover off or not. I would say take cover off, especially first time, but if you just want to do it other way no problem. Top drain bolt is idiot proof, as long as you are on level surface you just fill till it starts to overflow, done level set. Same thing with transfer case, no reason to over think it.

If you use redline gl-5 common gear fluid you wont need friction modifier. This is the one, you can see it carry's every spec in the world. Just make sure you don't use the NS version, that is dry for manual gear boxes. Only if you get shudder do you ever add modifier, but it wont happen, never heard of it and a lot of guys are running this including me. Just select your weight, I think the 3500 takes that weight? The 1500 takes a different weight.

from link..
75W90 GL-5 GEAR OIL

• Most popular Red Line gear oil, with thousands of applications for passenger cars, light trucks and racing vehicles
• Contains additional friction modifiers for suitability with clutch-type limited slip differentials - for most LSDs, no additional friction modifiers are required
• This product is not designed for use in most manual transmissions or transaxles in passenger vehicles, since the extreme slipperiness may cause synchronizer mesh issues that lead to shifting problems
• Recommended for API GL-5, GL-6, MT-1, MIL-L-2105E, SAE J2360 and Chrysler spec MS-9763
• Suitable replacement for a differential calling for an 80W90 or SAE 90 gear oil

 

[indept]

I just read in another thread that the LSD on 2500/3500 axles are mechanical, so there is no friction modifier needed. The 1500s have clutches, so it is necessary in those.

Just saw that you asked. Friction modifier and the additive they are talking about are the same thing.

I beleive 2500's and bigger use torsen style diffs which don't require modifiers. I wish they used them on the 1500's

 

[joshuaeb09]

I beleive 2500's and bigger use torsen style diffs which don't require modifiers. I wish they used them on the 1500's

You can swap to an Eaton Trutrack, but you also need to swap one of the axle shafts I believe. Probably in a few years if I ever kill the stock LSD and decide to swap the front to a 3.92 unit then I'll go ahead and do it when it gets 3.92 gears.

 

[QwikKota]

Just drain it through the plug. Don't over think it.

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