Do you trust the oil change indicator, or change early?

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corneileous

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I could see that if the Hemi had been drastically redesigned, but its not. Open one up and the internals haven't changed all that much in a good while. They also spec 0W40 on the 6.4ls which have an identical valve train, but don't get put into light duty's that are subject to EPA ratings on the sticker. The 5W20 is purely a CAFE thing much like Ford did with the Modular V8's that only spec'd 5W20 in the US market while specing 5W30 internationally for the exact same engine (Guess which ones has less long term cam phaser issues). I've seen 5W30 get poured into 5.3 Chevys that get smoothed way out, personally experienced 5W30 and 0W40 quiet down 5.7's, and seen 5.0 Coyotes go super smooth once a 5W40 or MC 5W50 is poured in.

While I don't fault anyone for following the OE recommendations, especially under warranty, you also have to understand their driving factors are not for the things to last as long as they can. They do everything they can to hit those CAFE targets and for it to last long enough so they get you back on the trade without paying out large numbers of warranty claims.

That all sounds good and all, and highly convincing since you were saying that the same international-marketed vehicles were being told to use 5w-30 but 5w-20 here in the states but as it says here on Valvoline’s website concerning the issue:

Is it ok to use 5W-30 in a car if the owner's manual calls for 5W-20?

Valvoline does not recommend doing this. Using a heavier grade than recommended may cause decrease in fuel economy, higher engine loads and eventually shortened engine life. Using a lighter grade than recommended may result in excessive mechanical wear and reduced engine life. For maximum engine performance, follow the recommended motor oil viscosity and maintenance schedule provided in your vehicle's owner's manual.

I get hung up on this. Whether it’s true or not, I dunno.


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joshuaeb09

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That all sounds good and all, and highly convincing since you were saying that the same international-marketed vehicles were being told to use 5w-30 but 5w-20 here in the states but as it says here on Valvoline’s website concerning the issue:



I get hung up on this. Whether it’s true or not, I dunno.


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Its a CYA blanket statement honestly. I wouldn't blindly just up viscosity without knowledge of the internals of a particular engine. When I would service imports with little 4 bangers I always would use or recommend the best synthetic 0W20/5W20 and shudder at that thought of putting a 5W30 or 10W30 into one. But a small block Chevy or Ford V8 I'd dump all sorts of **** in there and they would run and run so long as you didn't go to thin or something super thick like 20W50 unless it had a ****load of miles like my old 302 did. Obviously you wouldn't want to dump Delo 15W40 in a modern V8 like we could on the old stuff, but some of them really do do alot better on a good 5W30 or even 0/5W40.
 
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tap4154

tap4154

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That all sounds good and all, and highly convincing since you were saying that the same international-marketed vehicles were being told to use 5w-30 but 5w-20 here in the states but as it says here on Valvoline’s website concerning the issue:



I get hung up on this. Whether it’s true or not, I dunno.


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On the other hand, what sane oil company would publicly go against the manufacturer’s recommendations?
 

corneileous

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On the other hand, what sane oil company would publicly go against the manufacturer’s recommendations?

Good point...


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Sparky853

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I always change between the 6-7K Miles (9,656 to 11,260 KMS).
 

Sparky853

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No, it’s not just a simple countdown. From what I’ve read it takes into account your driving style, internal and external temperatures, and other algorithms. There’s so many sensors in the engine, transmission, idle time versus driving time, and external temps you drive in as well, that I see it being viable that it could fairly well predict what condition the oil is in. But again I would just check it occasionally, look at the oil on the dipstick, then make your own judgment. We all know with oil looks like when it’s getting to the end of it’s life.

I've defiantly had mine 'count down' quicker when towing my travel trailer. So there is some kind of calculation going on, how accurate it is is up for debate though.
 

Elkman

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Modern engines made with modern materials and using modern base stock motor oils will routinely go for 200,000 miles without any parts failing. In the 1960's a car with a stock engine that got to 100,000 miles was not at all the norm. Heck, even my 1998 Chevy Tahoe had a head gasket fail at less than 70,000 miles.

Anyone changing the oil more often than the DIC indicates is burning money and it is bad enough that we have soldiers tearing up more than 135 countries that have or might have oil without wasting the fruits of their efforts. The engine computer can take into account your driving pattern and make adjustments for low speed operation or short trips where the engine is running cold or when it is towing a heavy load or the ambient air temperature when it is operating.

For me it is a guess and when towing or doing heavy hauling or mostly stop and go driving I will change the oil at 5,000 miles with my diesel truck and at 7500 miles with the SUV and our hybrid sedan. For the diesel I use a dino base stock motor oil and with the other vehicles I use a blend as a 100% dino 5W30 is not the best choice with the 5W.

I have never had the internal moving parts of a gas or diesel engine fail in the past 50 years. I have had problems with head gaskets and alternators and water pumps and air conditioning, and none of these are influenced in the slightest by the composition of the motor oil in the crankcase.
There are specific engines that were badly designed in terms of lubricating important components, like the pre 2010 Traverse engines that were prone to failure of the timing chain, and GM shortened the oil change interval for them as a result (fixed the lubrication problem with the newer engines).

There is very little real difference with all the various base stocks that meet the API specifications. The real difference is in the amount of money spent marketing the different motor oils to consumers.
 

David_fr

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I had arround 11500 km ( ~7000 m ) on the truck when the oil light came a few days ago.

I will change oil and filter tomorrow.

Level and oil color are still good.
 

Riccochet

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I can tell you without a doubt that the OCI in my 2017 5.7 counts down miles. My truck gets uses for about 75% towing and the indicator never deviates from mileage based change interval, regardless of how the truck is used.

IMG_20181117_114228.jpg
 

joshuaeb09

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I can tell you without a doubt that the OCI in my 2017 5.7 counts down miles. My truck gets uses for about 75% towing and the indicator never deviates from mileage based change interval, regardless of how the truck is used.

View attachment 151528

This is exactly what my Ram does as well. The OLM programming on my '16 is purely a mileage countdown and nothing else. Unlike my Ram the OLM on my Challenger will actually account for engine load, how hot I've gotten the oil, and how long it spends running higher revs. This is likely an SRT powertrain thing since they spec way shorter OCI's for those motors to begin with and warn about changing after track days depending on the FCA material you read. If the OLM actually did some real calculation on the condition of the oil I would trust it a lot more, however, it doesn't at-least not in the case of my truck.
 

Marlin Mike

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On my 18 I did the first one at 2200 miles. I just did the 2nd one at 6700. No way am I going over 500 miles ever!
 

Ram04

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Figuring the correct oil change interval has always been common sense to me.

With a properly functioning mtr, no leaks and everything working correctly, if you ever have to add oil from the length of your interval then you've gone to far. (oil is broken down and mixing/ burning with fuel)

So if you can go 10,000 miles and oil level doesn't change you're golden.

On the other hand, if you have to add oil from 8000 miles and on, you should have changed the oil at 7000-7500 ;)

I never want to see oil more than 1/2 l/Q down between changes and usually gauge it so it gets changed just before.

That use to be 4-5000kms on older vehicles I owned. Now I find 7-8000kms depending on which vehicle seems to be the window.
 

Quyonmob

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OLM on my 17 pentastar wanted me to run nearly 13000mi.

Truck has 12000mi. I dumped the factory fill at 4000mi, filled it with Dino 5w30 until 8500mi to finish break in. Now running 0w20 syn (cold as fugg here) until 13000mi. Likely do 5000mi intervals with syn after.

Service tech said “follow the OLM with Dino sauce if want want your engine to last the duration of the warranty, change it sooner with synthetic if you want it to last”.
 

mtnrider

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I change mine per the indicator, which is approx every 15,000 miles and what the owners manual recommends. Oil analysis has proven it to be good to go (and even further) at that interval. No need to waste my time or money doing it sooner.


.
 

clint440

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I changed the factory oil at what the oil life meter said, I believe it was around 7,500 miles.

Put in Amsoil 5/20 SS, and was able to get 9,500 on the meter with Amsoil. Then I had an oil analysis done and showed good results. So changed the filter only, reset the oil life meter. Goal is to safely run 20,000 miles. No ticks, high base number, low wear. I'm the guy that tests the oil vs. speculating.

I'm use to oil changes between 10 and 20k miles. Definitely doable with the right oil, good filters, and oil analysis.
 

corneileous

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Service tech said “follow the OLM with Dino sauce if want want your engine to last the duration of the warranty, change it sooner with synthetic if you want it to last”.

What service tech was this?? I highly doubt this was at a dealer.

But that has made me wonder tho. I’m assuming this 10,000 mile/12 month interval is based on whatever it is they put in at the factory, whatever that is? Is that Dino bone oil? A synthetic blend, what?

If that’s all true, I guess we’re worlds ahead using either the Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Premium.


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corneileous

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I change mine per the indicator, which is approx every 15,000 miles and what the owners manual recommends. Oil analysis has proven it to be good to go (and even further) at that interval. No need to waste my time or money doing it sooner.


.

15,000? My manual says no more than 10,000. But if you’re outta warranty I guess that no longer matters.


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corneileous

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I changed the factory oil at what the oil life meter said, I believe it was around 7,500 miles.

Put in Amsoil 5/20 SS, and was able to get 9,500 on the meter with Amsoil. Then I had an oil analysis done and showed good results. So changed the filter only, reset the oil life meter. Goal is to safely run 20,000 miles. No ticks, high base number, low wear. I'm the guy that tests the oil vs. speculating.

I'm use to oil changes between 10 and 20k miles. Definitely doable with the right oil, good filters, and oil analysis.

Question... does that Amsoil have that same MS 6385 or whatever the hell number it is certification as the Pennzoil platinum or Ultra Premium? What filter do you use?

But I guess if you’re just wanting to be able to scrape every last useable bit out of your oil, I guess to each is own but by doing my own oil changes, they only
cost me 50 bucks a pop. That’s 7 quarts of PUP, and a Wix XP full synthetic media filter. If I started doin once a year, 10,000 mile changes instead of 2, 6 month or 6,000 mile changes, I’m only saving myself 50 bucks a year. That’s it. Fifty bucks is very cheap insurance and peace of mind in my book.

Maybe if I was putting a **** ton of miles on my pickup, I’d be reconsidering that but since I don’t, I don’t feel the need to use up every bit of my oil.




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