Lawman
Junior Member
E torque...Good or bad??
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It seems like a good option for stop/go driving but the smaller gas tank could be a bummer for towing/hauling/freeway.
E-torque has nothing to do with shifting, so that's why you don't know you have it. It operates when you're in a forward gear and you're stopped with your foot on the brake. What "wear on mechanicals"? The engine is restarted by means of that electric device sitting atop the engine and with that heavy belt attached. The water/oil pumps aren't needed if the engine isn't running. If the climate controls are set in the cabin to be calling for heat/cooling, the e-torque is bypassed or the engine is restarted even though you're stopped. I'm an old guy, so it was very difficult for me to get to where I trust it to start and go when I want to enter traffic from a parking lot or some such place. But it has worked without so much as a hiccup. It does help the gas mileage and there's likely a lot to be said about it, but suffice it to say that if you drove around town and sat at a dozen lights, losing 0.1 mpg per light, E-torque will get your around the same circuit and lose nothing.E-torque came with the truck. I wouldn't even know I have it. Shifts are as smooth as 2nd, 3rd, and 4th Gen Rams I've owned, and I would never had ordered it, considering the price.
Start/Stop is another matter. I hate it. Goes against my instincts. I cannot imagine that shutting off the motor for a 30 second red light will save enough gas to offset the wear on the mechanicals. Also, shutting off of motor-driven accessories, AND oil and water pumps! I have no trouble shutting off Start/Stop every time I select Drive. Button is right there. However, if I can find an affordable bypass system, I'm on it pronto.
In case anyone has run into an issue and hasn't got it addressed yet: I was on a trip before Thanksgiving and got a battery warning light. Pulled into a dealership and had the codes checked. The fault had cleared and there were two codes stored in the memory (POE31 and POE33), but neither had any obvious relation to the battery. Since it was working correctly by the time it was looked at, I got the codes written down and left. A few days later, got the same warning lamp. Went to the voltage screen on the vehicle info and saw the battery was down to 11.2V and dropping. Pulled into another dealership and had it checked. They found the POE31 code had repeated. They did some digging and found there was a software update required for the 48V/12V converter used on the E Torque motor/generator. So far, the fault hasn't repeated.
Well, it happened twice again the week before Christmas. What I noticed though was that it only occurred after using the remote start. My working theory is something in the remote start sequence isn’t right. Have an appointment to have it looked at later this week. We shall see.
Nothing like a Plymouth Reliant for a loaner!