Electrical System Crash With High Beams On

[Kurt Wurm]

I have a 2012 Lone Star Crew Cab 4x4 w/5.7 Hemi with an electrical problem. The regular headlights work just fine, however, every time I turn on the high beams the electrical system crashes and restarts. Sometimes it’s instant and sometimes it takes a couple seconds. When it crashes the engine does not die and the high beams will stay on but everything else electrical shuts down and restarts. Also if I turn off the high beams when it crashes I loose my headlights aswell. It’s almost like the BCM is overloading, shorting out or tripping a circuit breaker. It does have the proper bulbs installed as well. Has anyone on here experienced anything like this or have any suggestions on where to start.

 

[pacofortacos]

I would start with checking all the grounds (or do the Big 3 upgrade) and positive connections.

Big 3/4 upgrade.

I am planning on doing an audio upgrade to my 2015 Ram 1500. 8.4 Uconnect base 6 speaker system. I want to upgrade all my power and ground wires. So my question is where are all the wires located that I need to work with?

www.ramforum.com

You could probably trace the issue doing voltage drop tests if you know how to do those. But it might just fix the issue upgrading the grounds and possibly the positive cable.

 

[Mister Luck]

In the past I replaced an alternator with a cheap rebuild from pep toys and the regulator was shot because it was only bench tested not load tested… So it kept my electrical system alive during the day but at night with the headlights on they would slowly dim and I the truck would die completely

In newer vehicles the CAN bus system will detect the voltage drop and shut down non critical systems before total failure .

I would absolutely check the charging system including the serpentine belt the belt tensioner and the alternator itself.

The alternator fuses on the positive battery terminal are rated to be 20 amps greater than your alternator’s rating for example a 160 amp alt would have 180 amp fuse. The original alternator itself will have it‘s rating listed on a sticker on the back half of it’s case.

 

[Kurt Wurm]

I appreciate the quick replies. The voltage doesn’t drop at all, it just starts cycling the BCM when and only when the high beams are turned on or flashed and held. I can run all night with lights on and no problems, stero and amp don’t affect it. Also does the same thing if the engine is not running, in ACC I can turn on the lights and it’s be fine, but turn on the high beams and it starts cycling until then are turned off, once off everything’s fine again. I haven’t noticed any other problems with the electrical system. Which grounds are you referring to as the Big 3 upgrade?

 

[Atcer2018]

I appreciate the quick replies. The voltage doesn’t drop at all, it just starts cycling the BCM when and only when the high beams are turned on or flashed and held. I can run all night with lights on and no problems, stero and amp don’t affect it. Also does the same thing if the engine is not running, in ACC I can turn on the lights and it’s be fine, but turn on the high beams and it starts cycling until then are turned off, once off everything’s fine again. I haven’t noticed any other problems with the electrical system. Which grounds are you referring to as the Big 3 upgrade?

Are the lights OEM or aftermarket? halogen bulbs?

 

[Kurt Wurm]

I originally overlooked the link you posted about the Big 3 Upgrade. I just read through it and will definitely do that. Whether it fixes my problem or not, I’m sure better grounds will help overall.

 

[Kurt Wurm]

Are the lights OEM or aftermarket? halogen bulbs?

They are the factory quad headlamps with oem replacement bulbs

 

[Atcer2018]

They are the factory quad headlamps with oem replacement bulbs

Good should make troubleshooting easier. Have you checked voltage with a meter?

 

[Atcer2018]

Also check the actual turn signal/high beam stalk too. A short in the control
lever/switch can cause your issue.

 

[Mister Luck]

What is the battery voltage at rest with the engine off ?
Have you seen an increase in temperature in your fusebox compartment during the episodes ?

 

[chri5k]

I would look towards the TIPM. Remove and reseat all fuses and breakers. If that doesn’t help, then remove, check for corrosion and reseat the connectors on the underside of the TIPM.

 

[Kurt Wurm]

I currently have the TIPM out to sit overnight and reset all computers, all connectors look good. I’ll be putting it back in tomorrow and see if anything changes. I haven’t had a chance yet to check voltage other than the observing the dash gauge, which sits just below half not running and right on half running. I’ll be digging into it this weekend checking voltages. I haven’t checked the TIPM when this is going on to see if it’s getting hot, guess I’ll be doing that this weekend aswell. What would be the easiest way be to check for shorts in the turn signal stock?

 

[Kurt Wurm]

Today I got the TIPM back in and did a quick light test, everything seemed to work. Went to work and on the drive home used my high beams a couple of time for a minute or two each, no problems. When I got home I sat in the driveway for several minutes with them on and no issues. It seems pulling the TIPM worked. I did check voltage today as well, before I started it up the battery was sitting at 12.7 and running with no draw and with everything on 14.4 so I think that side of the electrical system is in good shape. As for the grounds, I inspected everything and it all looks to be in good shape but I will be doing the suggested upgrades soon. Thanks everyone for the assistance. I'll report back in a couple days after I've done some more night driving to let y'all know if its fixed.

 

[Tominator223]

So not sure this will help. Shake the tipm when it’s out. I believe it has a few relays under it that are soldiered in. If the relay(s) bad it’ll sound like a rock or somethings in it loose. These tipm’s relays wear out & can corrode. My 04 had one of the relays break internally. They say that they are tow light relays or something like that. But I don’t tow much. And the lights acted (stayed on with out the switch) weird. Believe they are 20amp and I replaced with 30amp. As the og tyco relays have to be purchased in bulk. So I found some am & a solder kit. Have to have 100watt min. Iron. To remove old. Ut has some vid’s. Also I got a No buss where the mileage is on dash & all gauges shut off. Depending on which relay it is will determine what gremlins you get. Also check grounds. If you’re in a place that salts the roads. Check grounds. Hope this helps. Truck was still running fine when this was going on.

 

[Kurt Wurm]

Well, I've got good news. I reinstalled the TIPM, after making sure it didn't sound like a maraca, and have not had a problem since. Ran the high beams one night for almost an hour and about 15 every night driving home from work with no issues. Not sure what us going on in the TIPM but that sems to have worked for now. thanks everyone for the assist.

 

[EdGs]

Well, I've got good news. I reinstalled the TIPM, after making sure it didn't sound like a maraca, and have not had a problem since. Ran the high beams one night for almost an hour and about 15 every night driving home from work with no issues. Not sure what us going on in the TIPM but that sems to have worked for now. thanks everyone for the assist.

That is good news.

Sometimes simply unplugging and reaseating a connector or a fuse is all it takes. Alot of vibration happens during normal driving, along with bumps, potholes, etc.

Even slight oxidation occurs due to moisture and humidity, circuits develop high resistances, and that's just enough to cause weird issues, ground connections trigger multiple issues at times.

Glad it seems resolved, intermittents can be hard to track down.