EPS issues - no power at plug

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tbowers391

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2013 ram 1500 - had to replace belt inside power steering last year (thanks to this forum for providing the knowledge about that). The other night I was in a parking spot and had turned the truck off, then back on into acc or run for a moment to use power outlet. When I turned ignition on I got the service power steering message. I have a lot of electronics gremlins in this thing and figured it was just being weird. I turned truck back off and went inside restaurant.
When I came back out a couple hours later I started truck and drove home no warning and no issues.

Next morning I start it in my driveway and get message again. Steering wheel stiff.
I shut it back off and start it up again and it’s gone again.

This happened a couple different times over the next day or two and I would just shut it off and then start it again problem solved. There were a couple times it didn’t fix it and I would have to drive where I needed to be with it stiff. And then it would randomly be fine.

I check the belt and it’s intact still. There was some water in the boot there and into the belt housing (had a crazy storm the other day and drove through some standing water) so I blew it out real good and turned truck on - fixed. So I left panel off all day so it would dry out anything left just to be sure.

Then later that same day it did it again, and had a couple more intermittent episodes but now it feels permanent.

Checked the fuses #78 and the 125 off the + side of battery and all look good and show power when tested with a test light.

I cleaned and blew out all the plugs (two on module, and the jumper by inner fender) real well, applied dielectric, and plugged back in. Didn’t do it.

After a lot more head scratching I finally decide to test for power on plugs into the module. No power at the big plug (with thick red power wire leading to it)


Any ideas? Are there fuses or connections I’m missing between the battery and the plug? Schematic for the wiring there? Am I missing something? Or do I need to just open up that whole wiring bundle and try to trace it the whole way?
 

Ken226

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This is from the factory service manual for my 2013.

1762262156881.png


According to this, fuse 78 comes from the ASD relay and is only powered when the truck is switched on.

Fuse 2, 100a should be powered all the time. If fuse2 is good but you still don't have power at the module, then you probably need to inspect that power cable, because it doesn't appear to have any more connector between the fuse and the module.
 
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tbowers391

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This is from the factory service manual for my 2013.

View attachment 575148


According to this, fuse 78 comes from the ASD relay and is only powered when the truck is switched on.

Fuse 2, 100a should be powered all the time. If fuse2 is good but you still don't have power at the module, then you probably need to inspect that power cable, because it doesn't appear to have any more connector between the fuse and the module.
Thanks for this. I’m looking and I can’t seem to spot 100a fuse? Mine at the terminal say 120a and 180a. Both have power after the fuse
 

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Ken226

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Thanks for this. I’m looking and I can’t seem to spot 100a fuse? Mine at the terminal say 120a and 180a. Both have power after the fuse

It should be the 120a

disconnect it from the battery and the steering rack and check continuity with your multimeter, but the 120a should be it.
 
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tbowers391

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Apparently I did a bad job at checking power to the plug (C2) because I just checked it again and we have power.

So I guess time to drop the rack and check the circuit board.

Obviously not keen on buying a new rack, but I’m more scared to purchase a new rack and it not be the problem.
 

Ken226

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Apparently I did a bad job at checking power to the plug (C2) because I just checked it again and we have power.

So I guess time to drop the rack and check the circuit board.

Obviously not keen on buying a new rack, but I’m more scared to purchase a new rack and it not be the problem.

Just to save you some time

Before your dealer tells you that your power steering rack is unavailable, your truck can't be fixed, and before you spend 6+ pages arguing about what fits an doesn't, read this thread"

Or, if you just want the cliffnotes,

skip to the very last post and pay specific attention to the part that says "Ken was right". ;)
 
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tbowers391

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Just to save you some time

Before your dealer tells you that your power steering rack is unavailable, your truck can't be fixed, and before you spend 6+ pages arguing about what fits an doesn't, read this thread"

Or, if you just want the cliffnotes,

skip to the very last post and pay specific attention to the part that says "Ken was right". ;)

Just to save you some time

Before your dealer tells you that your power steering rack is unavailable, your truck can't be fixed, and before you spend 6+ pages arguing about what fits an doesn't, read this thread"

Or, if you just want the cliffnotes,

skip to the very last post and pay specific attention to the part that says "Ken was right". ;)
Haha you need to have that last post framed in the wall.

Yea I definitely don’t want to take it to a dealer and get robbed. Are they saying they are out of stock mostly?

I found used one at local junk yard for $750, and Detroit axle has remanufactured one on Amazon for $1500 right now.
Detroit axle on amazon

How are these people getting the cover off to inspect the circuit board? I thought it was typical torx security bits but looks to be 5 point star and not 6 point star?
 

Ken226

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Haha you need to have that last post framed in the wall.

Yea I definitely don’t want to take it to a dealer and get robbed. Are they saying they are out of stock mostly?
No. Their part numbering system is retarded and the dealers have no idea what will fit, what is interchangeable and what isn't. There are about a thousand different part numbers for the same part, and no matter what year your truck is, will say that the part is discontinued. The dealers have no clue, they will tell you that the part is discontinued and that you should just scrap it and go buy another truck. They literally have no idea what fits what. You are completely on your own as to determining what will fit.

But take comfort in the fact that they will cut you a great deal on a new truck! You can get like, $900 off the $80,000 price on a new truck that's half as good as the one you already have. You'll also get a 10 year warranty, so it can sit in the ******* parking lot for 10 years due some unavailable computer module that you didn't want to begin with.



I found used one at local junk yard for $750, and Detroit axle has remanufactured one on Amazon for $1500 right now.
Detroit axle on amazon

How are these people getting the cover off to inspect the circuit board? I thought it was typical torx security bits but looks to be 5 point star and not 6 point star?

It's up to you, but I'd go new and OEM if it were me. That's what I did, early last year. Still works.

The aftermarket units don't have a good track record so far. Posts like this:


and this

As to the tool to remove the cover, something like this:
1762299801737.png
 
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tbowers391

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No. Their part numbering system is retarded and the dealers have no idea what will fit, what is interchangeable and what isn't. There are about a thousand different part numbers for the same part, and no matter what year your truck is, will say that the part is discontinued. The dealers have no clue, they will tell you that the part is discontinued and that you should just scrap it and go buy another truck. They literally have no idea what fits what. You are completely on your own as to determining what will fit.

But take comfort in the fact that they will cut you a great deal on a new truck! You can get like, $900 off the $80,000 price on a new truck that's half as good as the one you already have. You'll also get a 10 year warranty, so it can sit in the ******* parking lot for 10 years due some unavailable computer module that you didn't want to begin with.





It's up to you, but I'd go new and OEM if it were me. That's what I did, early last year. Still works.

The aftermarket units don't have a good track record so far. Posts like this:


and this

As to the tool to remove the cover, something like this:
View attachment 575170
Ken, first off, thanks for all of your insight into this problem.

So about the time you posted that reply I had just found and ordered that exact security torx set on Amazon. It came and got a minute to try to pop the panel to circuit board open. Super awesome that it POURED water out when I finally broke it free… sucks, but also my biggest fear was popping $2k for a new rack and it actually be in software or other electronics and it not solve the problem. Now I pretty much know it was the circuit board.

For others going down this road in the future, one hint I had before this, I went to start taking out the bolts to that circuit board cover and I accidentally nicked the 4wd and the panel at the same time as the bolts for eps module and there were small sparks… interesting. Put my multimeter on and I had continuity between eps module and frame. Hmm Then, I unplugged the big plug to module and it went away. Back in and it was back. So obviously electrical shorting out somewhere (inside the module full of water)

Right now, I have the rack fully off the truck and sprayed the **** out of the board with isopropyl alcohol and letting it air out overnight/next day. Throw it back in and see if I have any luck. Worst case is it’s fried and I have to get another one. Honestly not too bad to pull out, 4-5 bolts and you can drop it.

Wish I was smart enough to attach the videos, but the photos of puddle and gunk inside housing get the point across I think.
 

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tbowers391

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Yea about 2 days before it started acting up we had a huge downpour here in Florida. Happens all the time so didn’t think much of it. The road from my house into downtown was flowing water above the curb all the way across the road. I could feel the resistance from the water as I drove. Didn’t seem deep enough to get up that high though, but even then, I’ve had truck in water that deep before.

Must have found its way in I guess though.

Yea I’m confident in the replacement since I’ve now had the rack all the way off, inspected and dried module, replaced panel and mounted it back on the truck. Unfortunately still didn’t work, but I didn’t have high hopes it would.

So it’s realistically only 3 bolts, plus the tie rods which I unthreaded the tie rod ends which I’m thinking wasn’t the most efficient. But yea overall not bad.
 

turkeybird56

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Bummer.

Been in deep water lately?



It's an easy replace job too, just pricey.

Take comfort in the fact that you'll have the newest revision of the steering rack with most of the bugs worked out.
What about the belt? Is it in a different location? Would he need to check it? I am asking as I have no idea where the belt is
 

Ken226

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What about the belt? Is it in a different location? Would he need to check it? I am asking as I have no idea where the belt is

It is in a completely different location. In his case, the belt isnt in any way related to the failure. Water got into the circuit board cover.
 

turkeybird56

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Well with all dat water just figured he may wanna check the belt also just a brain dead thought
 

turkeybird56

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The belt was first thing I checked when started having this issue. It broke on me and I changed it last summer and thought it maybe shredded again. Nope.
I tried.
 

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