Exhaust leak 5.7

[R242]

Hello folks. I have the ever popular passenger side exhaust manifold leak. 5.7 with 54k on the odo. Looking for advice and information before I decide to repair, I have a trusted mechanic shop nearby waiting on my decision.
Should I just repair the leaking side with new hardware, and if so is there an upgraded bolt/stud kit available likesay from ARP? What gaskets, Remflex?
Should I bite the bullet now and install headers? Has anyone put in mids or do they make them? I see a few tuned length shorty options out there, longs probably out of the question as I don't want to tune.
Any advice from folks been through this is appreciated.

Here's a pic of my truck and my weird shadow for taking the time to read my post.

 

[Riccochet]

ARP makes a bolt kit. If you're getting it done might as well do both sides. Bolts and gaskets, call it a day.

 

[ChevySlayer69]

I just had passenger side factory manifold planed and reinstall with OEM hardware and do not plan to see the same failure again.

 

[R242]

Thanks for the input. I found this, a complete hardware and gasket set on Amazon for 70, says it's 10.9 grade. ARP bolts alone are 140ish.
https://www.amazon.com/Everbuilt-Ma...X74FGYR06X7&psc=1&refRID=XW8D45FREX74FGYR06X7

 

[Riccochet]

The choices are spend the money on the ARP's or spend the money on having the job redone in 30-60k miles. It's not if those OEM bolt will break again, it's when.

 

[NOV87]

I just had passenger side factory manifold planed and reinstall with OEM hardware and do not plan to see the same failure again.

Exactly what I did on both driver's and passenger's side. So far so good. It's been 20k miles.

 

[MoPowered]

Use ARP’s bolt’s and do both sides and spring for new exhaust manifolds if you can or shorty’s. If you Plane ‘em down they’re thinner and will expand and contract faster than when they were stock, think about today’s brake rotors. Just saying

 

[ChevySlayer69]

Use ARP’s bolt’s and do both sides and spring for new exhaust manifolds if you can or shorty’s. If you Plane ‘em down they’re thinner and will expand and contract faster than when they were stock, think about today’s brake rotors. Just saying

The manifolds warp and that's why bolts ultimately break. If new manifolds warp with ARP studs the manifold will likely crack. A used manifold that had been planed flat should not warp again. IMO the issue has nothing to do with the different rates of expansion between aluminum and iron. There's a sticky on this with great info.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

The manifolds warp and that's why bolts ultimately break. If new manifolds warp with ARP studs the manifold will likely crack. A used manifold that had been planed flat should not warp again. IMO the issue has nothing to do with the different rates of expansion between aluminum and iron. There's a sticky on this with great info.

I have posted alot of info in the sticky about milling the exhaust manifolds. Once they become warped after so many heat cycles the warping is complete. Most of my local machine shops now charge around $45.00 to machine the exhaust manifolds.

Once they are machined you can go back together with stock gaskets and hardware. So far I have not had a machined exhaust manifold warp or leak with stock gaskets and hardware.

 

[ChevySlayer69]

I have posted alot of info in the sticky about milling the exhaust manifolds. Once they become warped after so many heat cycles the warping is complete. Most of my local machine shops now charge around $45.00 to machine the exhaust manifolds.

Once they are machined you can go back together with stock gaskets and hardware. So far I have not had a machined exhaust manifold warp or leak with stock gaskets and hardware.

yea that's what i'm saying!

 

[Riccochet]

Its not even that they warp. Cast iron manifolds expand and contract at different rates than the aluminum heads they are attached to. The OEM hardware, over heat cycles, becomes weakened and they snap.

Milling the manifold is not going to stop the difference in material expansion rates, nor solve the issue of weak hardware.

 

[Brian Mealer]

I have a 2015 1500 with 51k miles. I pushed to have mine done under the factory powertrain warranty (60 month/60k miles) last month before my 60 months expired. They wanted to argue that manifold bolts weren't covered. I stated it is a known issue and was well documented across the internet and that something like that should last the lifetime of the vehicle. I told them I wouldn't pay the $1200 they quoted for the job and if I would pay out of pocket, I would invest in headers and have another shop do the job. I guess they decided if they want the work, the better figure a way for Ram to cover it and supposedly replaced all bolts and gaskets on both sides.

I felt like I just bought more time having the dealer "fix" it with stock parts as I assumed it is just a matter of time before it starts leaking/ticking again. However, I hope what I read above about the manifolds no longer warping further once they get to a certain point is true. If so, maybe it will be a permanent fix?

 

[Fast69Mopar]

I have a 2015 1500 with 51k miles. I pushed to have mine done under the factory powertrain warranty (60 month/60k miles) last month before my 60 months expired. They wanted to argue that manifold bolts weren't covered. I stated it is a known issue and was well documented across the internet and that something like that should last the lifetime of the vehicle. I told them I wouldn't pay the $1200 they quoted for the job and if I would pay out of pocket, I would invest in headers and have another shop do the job. I guess they decided if they want the work, the better figure a way for Ram to cover it and supposedly replaced all bolts and gaskets on both sides.

I felt like I just bought more time having the dealer "fix" it with stock parts as I assumed it is just a matter of time before it starts leaking/ticking again. However, I hope what I read above about the manifolds no longer warping further once they get to a certain point is true. If so, maybe it will be a permanent fix?

I have been with Chrysler for 22 years now and I have been repairing HEMI cylinder heads and broken exhaust manifold bolts since the beginning of the Gen-3 HEMI. All I can do is share my personal and professional experience and maybe that information can help another truck owner when it comes to making financial and mechanical decisions about their own truck.

I have been milling and machining HEMI exhaust manifolds for about 7 years now, I think. I originally started repairing the exhaust manifolds with a handheld belt sander and then moved on to having them milled on a Bridgeport Mill at my family's machine shop. It got easier when I bought my own Bridgeport Mill for my own shop.

So far, after milling, machining and belt sanding HEMI exhaust manifolds I have not had one start leaking after they have been machined. I normally use the stock exhaust gaskets when installing the manifolds but here lately I have been using the
BBK 1405 gaskets because my local supplier gave them to me at a highly discounted rate so it was a no-brainer for me.

I can't ever guarantee that the cast iron metal will not warp again. That would be asinine for me to offer that type of guarantee because the one thing we cannot predict or see is metal fatigue.

 

[MoPowered]

The manifolds warp and that's why bolts ultimately break. If new manifolds warp with ARP studs the manifold will likely crack. A used manifold that had been planed flat should not warp again. IMO the issue has nothing to do with the different rates of expansion between aluminum and iron. There's a sticky on this with great info.

Yep, saw it and I still recommend new manifolds and ARP bolts or shorties over planeing the old ones. Built enough engines to see what happens when when you put things back together when it comes to aluminum vs steel. It his choice of course but I would opt for what I did and will always do. No worries we’re all entitled to post and share info.

 

[R242]

I appreciate all the input. I have to means to go shorties, looking hard at these https://www.bbkperformance.com/dodge-ram-5-7l-hemi-1-5-8-in-shorty-headers-ceramic-09-16.html
BBK sells an upgraded gasket/hardware set, anyone try this or should I go ARP/Remflex, or something else?

The link says 1 5/8 but they are 1 3/4.

 

[MoPowered]

I appreciate all the input. I have to means to go shorties, looking hard at these https://www.bbkperformance.com/dodge-ram-5-7l-hemi-1-5-8-in-shorty-headers-ceramic-09-16.html
BBK sells an upgraded gasket/hardware set, anyone try this or should I go ARP/Remflex, or something else?

The link says 1 5/8 but they are 1 3/4.

Look into a tuner later on because they will free up some minor airflow, and can/may run a little lean not as bad as long tubes mind you but it’s something you need to be aware of.

 

[Dusty]

At 104,000 miles my 2010 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 Hemi developed an exhaust manifold leak. Chrysler covered the repair, including installing new parts on the side that wasn't leaking. New gaskets and bolts/studs were installed with the then available revised hardware. The manifolds were not machined. I sold the vehicle in 2014 and a local person purchased it from my dealer. That person lives in my neighborhood and I see my old truck daily. When I inquired how the truck was running this past summer, I asked what problems he's encountered, and specifically if the exhaust leak returned. He said negative. The truck now has 213K on it.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33 gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 03 June 2018. Now at: 042595 miles.

 

[lazer]

Why couldn't the factory put the new manifolds through stress and heat changes before they install them on new trucks?

 

[Dalton]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I had the right side break at about 60k miles, fixed it and moved on. Who knows if and when the left side will break? It is not like it is a disabling type of breakage, a pain in the butt, yes.

 

[djnelson5460]

If I simply replace the manifold bolts before they break with new ones, will they eventually break as well? I have an ‘18 with 42k miles on it. No exhaust leak yet. My plan was to replace the manifold bolts every 50k miles, one bolt at a time and torque them to spec as I go.