2016 Hemi Manifold Heat Shield

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mayhem100

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2016 crew cab Laramie Hemi. 152k-ish miles.

Had a heat shield rattle since I bought the truck this past summer. Very clearly a heat shield rattle, no ticking or anything else I would call an exhaust leak, but to be fair I'm new to Ram so I'm here to ask questions, not to make assumptions. Noise is present on cold start only, goes away after about 1-2 minutes.

Got some photos the other day, the passenger manifold heat shield is clearly partially rotted away and at least one bolt is out of its threaded hole, unclear if the bolt is broken, but I presume it probably is. Attached a couple photos below, my question is, is this a simple heat shield remove and replace or is the heat shield held on by the actual manifold bolts and this is probably just my first broken manifold stud? If so, is this something I should just deal with replacing the manifold and heat shield in the spring before the other studs break? Driver's side isn't making any racket but I have not done an inspection of that side yet.

20251206_164639.jpg
20251206_164610.jpg

Overall the truck was well cared for my the prior owner, very little corrosion, but if course manifold bolts will break when you try to take them out. I'm a diy'er, but have never had to deal with an exhaust manifold before, more or less most everything is doable, but how difficult is this job at home in the garage? I have a good place to work, but no lift beyond a jack and stands, so this would be done on my back and I assume through the front wheel well.

Thanks!
 

EdGs

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Looks like you have a manifold bolt broken flush with the cylinder head.

Is it passenger side, rear?

Best way to remove is to MIG weld a washer and nut to the part of the bolt that remains in the cylinder head, and unscrew.

They can be drilled and extracted, but I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS. It is very easy to screw up and end up having to buy a new cylinder head because of drilling into the water jacket or ruining the threads.

Wish you an easy and smooth repair.
 
OP
OP
M

mayhem100

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@ EdGs, yes, this is the passenger side rear, seems like just the top bolt, but I ought to inspect the others.

Can you please clarify, your recommendation is just work to get the one broken stud out and replace it with a new stud as long as the remaining ones are still in good shape? Or are you suggesting a complete removal of the manifold, which will certainly reveal any other bolts that are going to be breaking any time soon? Then get the broken one(s) out and reinstall with new studs and heat shield?

Thanks!
 

Ken226

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@ EdGs, yes, this is the passenger side rear, seems like just the top bolt, but I ought to inspect the others.

Can you please clarify, your recommendation is just work to get the one broken stud out and replace it with a new stud as long as the remaining ones are still in good shape? Or are you suggesting a complete removal of the manifold, which will certainly reveal any other bolts that are going to be breaking any time soon? Then get the broken one(s) out and reinstall with new studs and heat shield?

Thanks!

Yes, remove the manifolds and resurface them

Replace all of the bolts with new ones.
 

04fxdwgi

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2016 crew cab Laramie Hemi. 152k-ish miles.

Had a heat shield rattle since I bought the truck this past summer. Very clearly a heat shield rattle, no ticking or anything else I would call an exhaust leak, but to be fair I'm new to Ram so I'm here to ask questions, not to make assumptions. Noise is present on cold start only, goes away after about 1-2 minutes.

Got some photos the other day, the passenger manifold heat shield is clearly partially rotted away and at least one bolt is out of its threaded hole, unclear if the bolt is broken, but I presume it probably is. Attached a couple photos below, my question is, is this a simple heat shield remove and replace or is the heat shield held on by the actual manifold bolts and this is probably just my first broken manifold stud? If so, is this something I should just deal with replacing the manifold and heat shield in the spring before the other studs break? Driver's side isn't making any racket but I have not done an inspection of that side yet.

View attachment 577144
View attachment 577145

Overall the truck was well cared for my the prior owner, very little corrosion, but if course manifold bolts will break when you try to take them out. I'm a diy'er, but have never had to deal with an exhaust manifold before, more or less most everything is doable, but how difficult is this job at home in the garage? I have a good place to work, but no lift beyond a jack and stands, so this would be done on my back and I assume through the front wheel well.

Thanks!
Done thru the wheel well. The drivers side is the difficult one because it's more cluttered.
 

BigDog

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2017 Bighorn with 78K on it. Started with small tick and gradually became worse. I’m a diy as well but wasn’t gonna tackle this with several broken bolts. Shop did it for $1300 (double what they quoted)but took them 4 more hours. They put on my headers I bought online and couldn’t be happier. eBay Exhaust EnthusiastIMG_6123.jpeg
 

Hagar1

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To add to @EdGs excellent post,don't buy new manifolds,sand or machine your existing manifolds flat,as once they've taken a set,they usually won't warp and break bolts again,while a new set of manifolds will warp and break bolts
Exactly what wild one said!
The "new" exhaust manifolds or the "new" ones on the new truck have never been thermally cycled. When they are initially cast, they will have stresses "built in" and over time with the heat / cool cycles, they slightly deform and eventually cause the bolts to break. I had both of my manifold machined several years ago and no problem since.
It is the same reason that is is always more desirable to build a performance engine from a well used, high mileage engine. ......... It has been thermally cycled enough that the stresses are relieved.
 

Joseph Godvin

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Just did my Passenger side, had 2 broken bolts, one had enough to grab with stud remove tool. the other one was flush with head surface, used my mig welder to extract it. wasn't easy....took 4 tries with several nuts. welder was giving me trouble with the gas regulator leaking !!! Being a retired HD Mechanic and at 71 years old, took more out of me than it used to. ground down the old manifold with a 36 inch belt sander, it took quite a bit off to flatten the surface but it worked. drivers side not bad yet. not looking forward to doing it !!!
 

sooper cooper

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@ EdGs, yes, this is the passenger side rear, seems like just the top bolt, but I ought to inspect the others.

Can you please clarify, your recommendation is just work to get the one broken stud out and replace it with a new stud as long as the remaining ones are still in good shape? Or are you suggesting a complete removal of the manifold, which will certainly reveal any other bolts that are going to be breaking any time soon? Then get the broken one(s) out and reinstall with new studs and heat shield?

Thanks!
Detroit Diesel manifolds are heavy duty, supposedly not to warp
 

Jacob Maguire

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2017 Bighorn with 78K on it. Started with small tick and gradually became worse. I’m a diy as well but wasn’t gonna tackle this with several broken bolts. Shop did it for $1300 (double what they quoted)but took them 4 more hours. They put on my headers I bought online and couldn’t be happier. eBay Exhaust EnthusiastView attachment 577308
Curious how they are holding up after a few months...
 

hemiguyinMD

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I went thru this with mine this winter.
Once one bolt broke, others followed.
Ended up having BD Diesels installed at a shop. Thank God because all but 2 bolts broke trying to remove them.
Heat shields were cheap enough from the dealer. They didn't quite fit but made them work.
 

Indynick

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I have been driving/wrenching on Corvettes for 50 years, and never heard of an issue with broken head bolts. Is this a Hemi thing?
 

Ken226

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It's a aluminum head/iron manifold thing. It happens on LS engines too.

Especially on trucks.

The aluminum head/iron manifold thing makes trucks especially susceptible, since they are more likely to be used to pull trailers up steep grades.
 

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