Falken Wildpeak MT 35x12.5R17's on sale

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Mace Peveler

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Total was $1,133 with mounting and repair or replace warranty certificates. No sales tax here in Oregon, but I wish I were back in Texas where I grew up.
 

Rated R

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Total was $1,133 with mounting and repair or replace warranty certificates. No sales tax here in Oregon, but I wish I were back in Texas where I grew up.

What's wrong? You don't like tent cities, Kate Brown, Ted Wheeler, Antifa and milkshakes?
 

Mike Olmstead

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Same, PDX metro.

Aloha for me. There’s a red PW less than a mile from my house. Other than that I don’t see a lot of PW’s in our area.

I’m going to get a tuner before I do any mods to my PW. After that it will be 35” MT’s, CAI, and a cat back exhaust.
 
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62Blazer

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Thanks for the tip, 62Blazer! I just got mine put on at Discount Tire.
You beat me to it! Got the tires sitting in the garage but haven't had time to get it to the shop. Hopefully in the next day or two. Overall I'm pretty happy with the look!
 
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62Blazer

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Finally got the 35x12.50R17 Wildpeak MT's installed yesterday and have a whopping 60 miles on them now.
- Tire noise - obvious mud tire hum but not objectional IMO, slightly quieter than the factory Duratracs with 26k miles of even wear on them (still had decent tread)
- Performance - I noticed a very slight decrease in the seat of the pants pep of the vehicle, and seems to require slightly more brake application. Not unexpected with the increase size and weight....biggest downside to the the Falken's was are heavier than most other tires of that size
- Fuel Mileage - obviously not enough time to come up with any mileage figures yet
- Ride comfort - don't notice any difference compared to the Duratracs, and currently running them at the same 60 psi all the way round...plan on doing something with the TPMS to allow lower pressure, especially in the rear, which should make it ride better
- Handling - all dry roads so far, but noticed no difference in handling/turning/etc... In the past I had gone from the factory street orientated tires to mud tires on a Chevy 2500HD and about $%&* my pants the first high speed turn I made in the highway because of the tread squirm.

Overall I'm happy with them. Total price was $1,050 mounted and balanced. I like the overall look of them with an aggressive but not obnoxious sidewall tread design, and visually looks to have decent siping on the tread. Also like the size...35's should come from the factory on these!
 
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62Blazer

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Thought I would finally put an update on the tires. Only have a couple thousands miles on them since installing them in late January but here are my thoughts:

They look "beefier" than I originally expected. I think they look fairly wide and the tread is more aggressive than I thought....I know they are mud tires but looking at pictures I thought they were quite as aggressive as some other brands but in real life they are. These trucks should come with 35's from the factory!

They ride smooth and handling is good. Wet roads traction seems really good. Better than the stock half-worn Duratracs for sure. Before on a wet road if you turned the traction control off and took off under heavy throttle it was pretty much unlimited tire spin. Now if you really have to punch it hard to spin and it will regain traction pretty quick. This is also in comparison to my last truck with BFG AT's on it.

They definitely have the MT tire road noise but I don't find it objectionable IMO. Still think they are a little quieter than the Duratracs I took off.

Fuel mileage.....who knows! Haven't really paid any attention to this but rather been enjoying the cheap gas prices the last couple of weeks...and the only reason I have as many miles as I do. Usually drive my 30 MPG car back and forth to work but have been driving the truck more because of the gas prices.
 

Westwind1124a

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Thought I would finally put an update on the tires. Only have a couple thousands miles on them since installing them in late January but here are my thoughts:

They look "beefier" than I originally expected. I think they look fairly wide and the tread is more aggressive than I thought....I know they are mud tires but looking at pictures I thought they were quite as aggressive as some other brands but in real life they are. These trucks should come with 35's from the factory!

They ride smooth and handling is good. Wet roads traction seems really good. Better than the stock half-worn Duratracs for sure. Before on a wet road if you turned the traction control off and took off under heavy throttle it was pretty much unlimited tire spin. Now if you really have to punch it hard to spin and it will regain traction pretty quick. This is also in comparison to my last truck with BFG AT's on it.

They definitely have the MT tire road noise but I don't find it objectionable IMO. Still think they are a little quieter than the Duratracs I took off.

Fuel mileage.....who knows! Haven't really paid any attention to this but rather been enjoying the cheap gas prices the last couple of weeks...and the only reason I have as many miles as I do. Usually drive my 30 MPG car back and forth to work but have been driving the truck more because of the gas prices.

Any Snow/Ice that you comment on? I have less than 10,000 miles on mine and it's on its 3rd set of duratracs. Thinking this might be a good fit if they're not terrible in the snow...
 
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62Blazer

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No experience in snow or ice. We had a really mild winter and never any significant snow or ice on the roads....and I always drive the car unless the snow is actually deep to save the PW from the wraths of the road salt.
 

Westwind1124a

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No experience in snow or ice. We had a really mild winter and never any significant snow or ice on the roads....and I always drive the car unless the snow is actually deep to save the PW from the wraths of the road salt.

Thanks! and good plan with the salt!
 
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62Blazer

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Thanks! and good plan with the salt!
I tend to keep vehicles for a long time and have no issues doing mechanical maintenance and repairs as needed, but hate dealing with rust. My last truck was an '03 Chevy with 150,000 miles on it that ran great but the rust got to it. Not so much the body but brake lines, fuel lines, trans cooler lines, parking brake cables, transmission shifter linkage, tailgate hinges, etc, etc, all started rotting out.
 

Westwind1124a

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I tend to keep vehicles for a long time and have no issues doing mechanical maintenance and repairs as needed, but hate dealing with rust. My last truck was an '03 Chevy with 150,000 miles on it that ran great but the rust got to it. Not so much the body but brake lines, fuel lines, trans cooler lines, parking brake cables, transmission shifter linkage, tailgate hinges, etc, etc, all started rotting out.

I was going to keep my '12 ram forever but the rust started getting to it. I was thinking about parking my new one during the crap weather and driving my wifes pilot. I can buy 2 of those for what a new loaded pw goes for. Anyway thanks for the writeup. Im seriously going to look at these tires
 
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62Blazer

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I was going to keep my '12 ram forever but the rust started getting to it. I was thinking about parking my new one during the crap weather and driving my wifes pilot. I can buy 2 of those for what a new loaded pw goes for. Anyway thanks for the writeup. Im seriously going to look at these tires
I daily drove a 4wd 3/4 ton truck for years but finally decided that a cheap daily driver car made sense probably 7 years ago. The gas cost is only a small factor in this decision, as the repair, maintenance, and overall vehicle replacement costs make the biggest difference. My current "work car" was 4 years old with 50,000 miles on the odometer that I bought for $7,000. Nothing fancy but it is a mid-size car that was in good shape, new tires, etc... I've put another 50,000 miles on it so far with the only maintenance being oil changes and one set of brakes, and repairs have been a common issue on this particular model and have cost me about $600. It is due for tires soon. Here is how I look at it:

Purchase price:
Car = $7,000
PW (used) = $34,000
*This means I can put all the miles on the car and wear it out and buy another for a fraction of the price as a PW.

Fuel Mileage:
Over the 50k miles I've put on the car that means I've saved $5,000-$6000 in fuel costs as compared to driving the PW....that will almost pay for another car when it's needed.

Maintenance and repair:
Generally the car is much cheaper overall. Tires for the car are about 1/3 the cost as tires for the PW, and that's not including they typically last longer.

The only negative is insurance and registration costs of having another vehicle. But again, in my case that added cost is no big deal.

In my case I tend to hold on to vehicles for a long time. My last truck I owned for 17 years
 

Westwind1124a

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I daily drove a 4wd 3/4 ton truck for years but finally decided that a cheap daily driver car made sense probably 7 years ago. The gas cost is only a small factor in this decision, as the repair, maintenance, and overall vehicle replacement costs make the biggest difference. My current "work car" was 4 years old with 50,000 miles on the odometer that I bought for $7,000. Nothing fancy but it is a mid-size car that was in good shape, new tires, etc... I've put another 50,000 miles on it so far with the only maintenance being oil changes and one set of brakes, and repairs have been a common issue on this particular model and have cost me about $600. It is due for tires soon. Here is how I look at it:

Purchase price:
Car = $7,000
PW (used) = $34,000
*This means I can put all the miles on the car and wear it out and buy another for a fraction of the price as a PW.

Fuel Mileage:
Over the 50k miles I've put on the car that means I've saved $5,000-$6000 in fuel costs as compared to driving the PW....that will almost pay for another car when it's needed.

Maintenance and repair:
Generally the car is much cheaper overall. Tires for the car are about 1/3 the cost as tires for the PW, and that's not including they typically last longer.

The only negative is insurance and registration costs of having another vehicle. But again, in my case that added cost is no big deal.

In my case I tend to hold on to vehicles for a long time. My last truck I owned for 17 years

All makes sense. and the pw should be an awesome retro truck if you hang onto it for that long. I wish I could go the 7,000 car route, but I have to leave my vehicle at the airport in Maine for a week or more at a time. I know the first night that I came home at 11pm on a January night and it wouldn't start I'd lose it.

I will say that being able to start the truck from the back of a 737 before you even deplane is something I'll miss with my wife car.
 
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62Blazer

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Well, guess I don't consider a 4 year old car with 50,000 miles an old worn out and unreliable beater:). It's not a fancy car but not a super cheapo econo box either. And I can also start it from the back of a 737 with the phone app.
 

Westwind1124a

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Well, guess I don't consider a 4 year old car with 50,000 miles an old worn out and unreliable beater:). It's not a fancy car but not a super cheapo econo box either. And I can also start it from the back of a 737 with the phone app.
No offense. Sorry. Didn’t see that it was 4 years old. Definitely not a beater. My friend has a used car lot. You don’t want to know what 7,000 gets you there. Lol
 
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