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I bought my truck to drive. Not to look at. I bought it loaded for the Comfort. I bought it big so I can run over, and not be ran over. And then there is function. I can pick up a load of sod/concrete on the way home for work. No preplanning. There are so many holes in your reasoning I saw you write this twice already and twice you have not mentioned the cost insurance, cost of registration, or taxes. (Just that it exist) Just the wear and tear of it not even moving out of the driveway adds up. (Wiper blades dry rotted etc.) I hate when I have a rental. If if I’m putting miles on something else. I bought a he PW to drive. Did I mention that?? Just messing with you. But for real, this is a PW thread. Don’t bore us with commuter cars.I daily drove a 4wd 3/4 ton truck for years but finally decided that a cheap daily driver car made sense probably 7 years ago. The gas cost is only a small factor in this decision, as the repair, maintenance, and overall vehicle replacement costs make the biggest difference. My current "work car" was 4 years old with 50,000 miles on the odometer that I bought for $7,000. Nothing fancy but it is a mid-size car that was in good shape, new tires, etc... I've put another 50,000 miles on it so far with the only maintenance being oil changes and one set of brakes, and repairs have been a common issue on this particular model and have cost me about $600. It is due for tires soon. Here is how I look at it:
Purchase price:
Car = $7,000
PW (used) = $34,000
*This means I can put all the miles on the car and wear it out and buy another for a fraction of the price as a PW.
Fuel Mileage:
Over the 50k miles I've put on the car that means I've saved $5,000-$6000 in fuel costs as compared to driving the PW....that will almost pay for another car when it's needed.
Maintenance and repair:
Generally the car is much cheaper overall. Tires for the car are about 1/3 the cost as tires for the PW, and that's not including they typically last longer.
The only negative is insurance and registration costs of having another vehicle. But again, in my case that added cost is no big deal.
In my case I tend to hold on to vehicles for a long time. My last truck I owned for 17 years
Believe he got a killer deal on his car. $7,000 down here would buy you head aches. And, texting drivers get out of my lane quick in the PW! I won’t let my wife drive anything smaller than her Tahoe due to distracted drivers.I bought my truck to drive. Not to look at. I bought it loaded for the Comfort. I bought it big so I can run over, and not be ran over. And then there is function. I can pick up a load of sod/concrete on the way home for work. No preplanning. There are so many holes in your reasoning I saw you write this twice already and twice you have not mentioned insurance cost registration taxes is just wear and tear of it not even moving. (Wiper blades dry rotted etc.) I hate when I have a rental. If if I’m putting miles on something else. I bought a he PW to drive. Did I mention that?? Just messing with you. But for real, this is a PW thread. Don’t bore us with commuter cars.
love ya man. Stay healthy!!
Lol I’m so Redneck, I would drive my Deere to work if it went fast enough.Believe he got a killer deal on his car. $7,000 down here would buy you head aches. And, texting drivers get out of my lane quick in the PW! I won’t let my wife drive anything smaller than her Tahoe due to distracted drivers.
I gotcha. Did not mean to bust your balls. If I had a commuter car, I was thinking the hellcat... apples and oranges I know.Don't get me wrong as I absolutely love driving the truck, just hate putting the monotonous miles on it driving up and down the freeway to work everyday. I have driven it everyday this week to work as I try to take advantage of the cheap gas (paid $1.25 a couple days ago!). I drive it all the time on the weekends and after work......you know, the fun driving.
Believe he got a killer deal on his car. $7,000 down here would buy you head aches. And, texting drivers get out of my lane quick in the PW! I won’t let my wife drive anything smaller than her Tahoe due to distracted drivers.
And a smoking deal on those tires! can't find those anywhere near that price now. Oh well, should have bought them back in Jan.
I noticed that you are in Maine, if you need tires that are good in snow/ice/gravel roads, Google Kanati Trail Hogs, they cost about a third less than name brand tires.. I think that I paid around $230.00ish for 37 x 12.50 17`s on line.
Basically a copy of the Goodyear Duratrac but with 10ply E rated and a heavier 3 ply sidewall, more aggressive than the Falken and Toyo AT`s but are a better "true all-terrain tread" IMO...
I got those trail hogs on for about 7500 miles now. Got them installed last September I believe?
They're halfway used and I don't think they'll last a second winter.
Love 'em but boy did they use fast!
Yes, even the expensive "name brand" snow flake rated tires will wear faster due to the softer compound required to keep flexibility and grip in cold weather.... At least the Kanati`s are priced reasonably enough so that it doesn`t kill your bank account every time you have to replace them!
35" tall. I have these for sale rims and tires, about 15k miles, I stepped up to 37"Any updates on the Falken MT's? what do they actually measure height wise?
35" tall. I have these for sale rims and tires, about 15k miles, I stepped up to 37"
https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bar/d/la-habra-17-rims-and-35-tires/7209356121.html
and they do not know the difference between manufacturer specified height and actual height.I am always surprised when I see people trying to sell something, but there is no price. Did I miss it?
and they do not know the difference between manufacturer specified height and actual height.
what do the measure on your truck running whatever you are running for psi? 33.5" or there abouts?LOL
For what it is worth, my 35x12.5x17 Wildpeak At3W's measure in at 34.75" mounted, aired up and unloaded.
what do the measure on your truck running whatever you are running for psi? 33.5" or there abouts?