First Oil Change and a discovery or 2

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LugsLeadOut84

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Yea. I’ve got a 17 but same crappy filter spot. Love my relocate. And my hood is aluminum too. Every .0001% of fuel efficiency they could find

View attachment 191908

Not to sidetrack the conversation, but....You went through the motions of installing the filter relocation kit and obviously change the oil yourself - I'd probably reconsider the filter choice. Fram doesn't have the best reputation. Don't take it as a shot - just a friendly suggestion.
 

chrisbh17

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Not to sidetrack the conversation, but....You went through the motions of installing the filter relocation kit and obviously change the oil yourself - I'd probably reconsider the filter choice. Fram doesn't have the best reputation. Don't take it as a shot - just a friendly suggestion.

The Fram Ultra (filter shown in the pic) is actually very highly rated and a very high quality filter.

Yes, the Fram Orange Can O Death might not be the greatest (nowadays it isnt as bad as it used to be) but Fram does make several different levels of filter, the Ultra being the best.

And FWIW, the Purolator PureOne which everyone used to regard so highly, is STILL having issues with pleats tearing. So it isnt just Fram that might make a bad filter.
 

litzdog911

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The ziploc bag is generally an epic fail for most working on their back. In a pit or on a lift, works great. Do yourself a favor and take a 2-liter soda bottle and cut the bottom half off it. Use the half with the spout, making sure the cap is tight. The spout makes a good handle for you to hold to slip it around the oil filter and hold it while your other hand spins the filter loose and lets in drop into the soda bottle funnel. Remove everything neat and clean.

Great suggestion!
 

crazykid1994

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Not to sidetrack the conversation, but....You went through the motions of installing the filter relocation kit and obviously change the oil yourself - I'd probably reconsider the filter choice. Fram doesn't have the best reputation. Don't take it as a shot - just a friendly suggestion.
The fram ultra is a lot better than some others. I usually run RP filters but needed one quick my last oil change and Walmart was right there.
 

LugsLeadOut84

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The Fram Ultra (filter shown in the pic) is actually very highly rated and a very high quality filter.

Yes, the Fram Orange Can O Death might not be the greatest (nowadays it isnt as bad as it used to be) but Fram does make several different levels of filter, the Ultra being the best.

And FWIW, the Purolator PureOne which everyone used to regard so highly, is STILL having issues with pleats tearing. So it isnt just Fram that might make a bad filter.


My bad....Haven't kept up.....Me = :owned:
 

Scott Nugent

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Not to defend their filter location choice, but Im not sure why we would expect them to change the filter location if the engine in the 5th gen is exactly the same as the engine in the 4th gen :)

As FCA shoe-horns the 5.7 into everything know to man, there are bound to be applications that make the oil filter a PITA to get to. Of course, our trucks win that prize.

And the hood is aluminum (it was on the 4th gens, too). A good thing, IMHO, because at least it wont rust if you get paint chips from driving.


Wish my drivers front fender was aluminum!
 

JS4024

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From what I know, I have a 2500 with a 6.4 liter but you can get a larger filter on (that) motor. The filter sticks straight out the front. Easy to get too and they built in a drip catcher too. I use nothing but Amsoil Signature oil and they do have a larger filter available. Standard filter is the EA 15k50 15k mile filter, the same filter mount but with more volume is an EA0 17, 25k mike filter. Cross reference that to your brand and it should be fine. 5.7 and 6.4 have same oil filter. 6.4’s come with Pennzoil full synthetic, 5.7’s are synthetic blend. I caution anyone on here adding an extender. If it leaks no warranty. You pop someone, or hit a deer and that filter is right there ready to drain your oil onto the roadway....
 

mikeru

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The ziploc bag is generally an epic fail for most working on their back. In a pit or on a lift, works great. Do yourself a favor and take a 2-liter soda bottle and cut the bottom half off it. Use the half with the spout, making sure the cap is tight. The spout makes a good handle for you to hold to slip it around the oil filter and hold it while your other hand spins the filter loose and lets in drop into the soda bottle funnel. Remove everything neat and clean.
The first time I tried the ziploc bag it was a complete waste of a perfectly good bag, as well as made more of a mess than I would have had with no bag. But that was because I used a gallon sized bag. Now I use a quart sized bag and spill almost no oil. Definitely much cleaner than no bag. I'm having trouble envisioning that there is enough room to slip the top half of a 2 liter bottle between the filter and steering rack, but it's worth a try I suppose. Whatever I decide to use, it will be the last time I'll have to do it that way because I'll be installing a relocation kit at that time.
 

geotex1

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The first time I tried the ziploc bag it was a complete waste of a perfectly good bag, as well as made more of a mess than I would have had with no bag. But that was because I used a gallon sized bag. Now I use a quart sized bag and spill almost no oil. Definitely much cleaner than no bag. I'm having trouble envisioning that there is enough room to slip the top half of a 2 liter bottle between the filter and steering rack, but it's worth a try I suppose. Whatever I decide to use, it will be the last time I'll have to do it that way because I'll be installing a relocation kit at that time.

Works fine - the flexibility is your friend and leaving it about one-half bottle length keeps you from spilling out the catchment when you negotiate out of the tangle. I been using this trick a long time - used the trick the entire time I had my '14 Sport, which was conventional oil at 3K religiously, and my 5th Gen has 2 changes under the belt and running synthetic of course No relocation kit for me on the 5th Gen as I have the last of the Lifetime MaxCare warranties, and a relocation kit is grounds not to honor it. Honestly, I've not run a relocation kit on anything since the 350 swap in my 87 Jeep a few decades ago. If you want to really have fun, you can change the filter on my 4th Gen Cummins!
 

mikeru

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Works fine - the flexibility is your friend and leaving it about one-half bottle length keeps you from spilling out the catchment when you negotiate out of the tangle. I been using this trick a long time - used the trick the entire time I had my '14 Sport, which was conventional oil at 3K religiously, and my 5th Gen has 2 changes under the belt and running synthetic of course No relocation kit for me on the 5th Gen as I have the last of the Lifetime MaxCare warranties, and a relocation kit is grounds not to honor it. Honestly, I've not run a relocation kit on anything since the 350 swap in my 87 Jeep a few decades ago. If you want to really have fun, you can change the filter on my 4th Gen Cummins!
Haha...no thanks. I've done my share of oil changes on older diesel engines. No thanks.

I'll take your word for it as far as the 2 liter bottle trick goes. I'd actually have to drink something that comes in a 2 liter bottle to have one to try it with LOL.
 

yellowboy

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Sounds like allot of mess and trouble to save a few pennies. For $99. I get 3 oil changes and tire rotations at my dealer (I think it's a Mopar deal) let them deal with the aggravation.
 
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Elkman

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I have a local quick lube place that charges $35 for oil change oil without all the gimmick inspections and that is with full synthetic motor oil. I bring the filter as they us an off brand one and it is not worth taking the risk with the engine to save $5 on the filter.

With cars from the 1950's through the 1980's the engines were not as well made in terms of materials or tolerances when they left the factory. But over the past 40 years the engines are better made and the lubricants are better as well and so there is no need to do an early oil change unless specifically recommended by the manufacturer.

I have a SUV with a V-6 that is prone to problems with timing chain wear from not enough lubriction and so I get the oil changed every 5,000 miles for insurance. My diesel truck is very hard on the oil and so I get it changed every 7500 miles which is sooner than the DIC would indicate and the diesel engine has twice the oil capacity of a gas V-8 so it can absorb more contaminents.
With a regular gas engine though I would be changing based on the DIC indication.

Driving around town and in stop and go traffic at an average of 30 mph one would after 5,000 miles have put 166 hours on the engine and the motor oil, as compare to someone who primarily drives on the freeway and the average speed is 60 mphh for 5,000 miles which would entail 83 hours of engine operation and put less demand on the oil and a much reduced level of contaminents in it.

With all the men and women in the military getting killed or crippled to protect the interests of the oil companies overseas it seems very callous to waste either gas or oil. The real cost of the oil is far greater than what one pays the retailer.
 

Jendsley06

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Not to defend their filter location choice, but Im not sure why we would expect them to change the filter location if the engine in the 5th gen is exactly the same as the engine in the 4th gen :)

As FCA shoe-horns the 5.7 into everything know to man, there are bound to be applications that make the oil filter a PITA to get to. Of course, our trucks win that prize.

And the hood is aluminum (it was on the 4th gens, too). A good thing, IMHO, because at least it wont rust if you get paint chips from driving.
I dont particularly dislike the aluminum hood. I know at least Ford has been doing this since sometime in the 90's on some vehicles. But as for rust, as I found with my wife's 200, "rust" can happen when things go south on aluminum as well. Fortunately, warranty covered the repair, but the front of the hood had bubbles forming under the paint, just like rust on steel from behind. No chips either, which is why Chrysler paid for the repair. I've heard that some Rams have similar problems with hoods and many have had to fight a lot to get warranty to cover. Enjoy the truck though they build them well from what I have seen.
 
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