Flip down rear seats done!

[rgardjr]

Can you post a pic of what they look like?

A little hard to see now that they are installed. They are just pieces of mdf painted black.


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[Steveo8x8]

I just did this mod to mine last night took about 10 minutes! Works like a charm!

 

[Ruiner]

Finally competed this mod. Happy with the results.

 

[MoreOvalteenPlz]

Just did this simple mod. Had to use 1/2" nuts and two washers on each bolt since that's all I could find at lowes. I have the full one piece bench seat and put the spacers on all four outside bolts and the two bolts that hold the female ends of the seat belts (driver side). Didn't put them on the male set (passenger side) because there's plenty of slack. So 6 nuts and 12 washers all together for the single piece bench seat.

 

[RockyJ]

This is awesome! I'm on it.

Maybe it should be a sticky in DIY.

 

[Z-Rider]

Just did my split 60/40 rear seat in my '10 BigHorn about 2 hours ago. Yet another low cost, yet extremely useful mod. This site is awesome.


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[-B-]

I did this mod but differently than most with a bit more engineering in it. The stacked washer mod bother me as there is on two points of seat support as opposed to the OE full length of the base support. I used some left over Thule short bars I had stripped the vinyl off and cut and drilled then put in an anti crush bushing I had a friend spin up. Not that by mealy bolting down the seats would crush a Thule bad but just in case I got overly aggressive. I also replace the bolts with longer ones to have as much thread engagement as I could and previously had. The same type of mod can be done with 1"x 3/4" square tubing , Thule bars are had about and plenty of they are of course way over kill .

 

[posttal]

question...I started doing this but didn't like the fact that the seat was sitting on washers..or a little pedestal if you will. and that the bolt was now held in with only half the threads into the floor that it use to have... so I stopped and put it back stock. BUT I did get to a point where I was able to slide the seat up and out to see how it attached in the rear... so here's my question. Instead of lifting the seat and having the bolts actually being too short for safety... why not just cut 3/4 of and inch off the tabs on the rear of the seat ? The stock set up lifts the seat just like the washer set up but its not far enough to disconnect it... but if the tab was shorter you would be taking the 3/4 inch from there instead of lifting the seat 3/4 of and inch and the seat would still be secure to the floor ?.. thoughts

 

[charonblk07]

question...I started doing this but didn't like the fact that the seat was sitting on washers..or a little pedestal if you will. and that the bolt was now held in with only half the threads into the floor that it use to have... so I stopped and put it back stock. BUT I did get to a point where I was able to slide the seat up and out to see how it attached in the rear... so here's my question. Instead of lifting the seat and having the bolts actually being too short for safety... why not just cut 3/4 of and inch off the tabs on the rear of the seat ? The stock set up lifts the seat just like the washer set up but its not far enough to disconnect it... but if the tab was shorter you would be taking the 3/4 inch from there instead of lifting the seat 3/4 of and inch and the seat would still be secure to the floor ?.. thoughts

It's another option but the washers/mdf spacers can be removed and all is back to stock. Plus the slightly taller seat is more comfortable for people with longer legs who sit back there. If the number of threads holding the seat in place is a concern then go buy some longer grade 8 (10.9 rated metric) bolts like I did with my 1.5" lifted seats.

 

[posttal]

Now I'm a bit curious...if your seats are lifted 1.5 inches the tabs wouldn't be able to lock, so you must have done something else when everyone else is raising the seat 3/4 of and inch...hardly enough to be noticeable to a passenger. The bolts "Should" be replaced in all circumstances if you carry passengers...especially the bolt holding in the seat belt. I know safety isn't a big issue when doing this mod since most don't really use the back seat on a regular basis...but just like wearing a seat belt it could come into play in an accident. I'm just saying having a seat sitting on a pedestal of washers seems like a real hillbilly way of doing things ..I like the guys that have made plates to raise the seats...those with longer bolts would be perfect and the seat is still sitting solid on the floor. Anyway that has nothing to do with my question...I was just curious if anyone cut the tab down and did it that way...seems like a safer and more "factory" way of doing it.

 

[charonblk07]

Now I'm a bit curious...if your seats are lifted 1.5 inches the tabs wouldn't be able to lock, so you must have done something else when everyone else is raising the seat 3/4 of and inch...hardly enough to be noticeable to a passenger. The bolts "Should" be replaced in all circumstances if you carry passengers...especially the bolt holding in the seat belt. I know safety isn't a big issue when doing this mod since most don't really use the back seat on a regular basis...but just like wearing a seat belt it could come into play in an accident. I'm just saying having a seat sitting on a pedestal of washers seems like a real hillbilly way of doing things ..I like the guys that have made plates to raise the seats...those with longer bolts would be perfect and the seat is still sitting solid on the floor. Anyway that has nothing to do with my question...I was just curious if anyone cut the tab down and did it that way...seems like a safer and more "factory" way of doing it.

The seats lock just fine when they're down, when they're raised up all the way though they will fold forward. Mine are a little higher than most people who have to clear the tall NetAudio box because I've got a full layer of CLD tiles and an extra 1/2" of MLV under it.

The washers is a bit of a hack way of doing it I agree which is why many of us have used MDF spacers which are then wrapped in box cloth so it looks factory.

 

[posttal]

Yeah I don't think I like the washer set up...I've been keeping my eyes open for something else to use...a piece of billet aluminum or something..I think I'd even prefer a piece of hardwood. But no matter what is used I will be getting longer bolts...at least the rear bolts which hold the seat belt

 

[BlownGP]

Yeah I don't think I like the washer set up...I've been keeping my eyes open for something else to use...a piece of billet aluminum or something..I think I'd even prefer a piece of hardwood. But no matter what is used I will be getting longer bolts...at least the rear bolts which hold the seat belt

That's a good idea. I could see making some billet aluminum spacers pretty easy.

 

[9th]

DIY: Rear Seat Flip Down Mod

Rear Seat Mounting Bolt


Spacer...




Washer ID: 1/2 inch or M12
Spacer Thickness: 5/8 to 3/4 inch

 

[wannahdawg]

Ok so I love this mod. I use my truck for my landscaping business, and there's never anybody in the back seat. Ive even thought of removing it completely, but I can't bring myself to do it. Figure the one day I need the seat it'll be in the garage haha. Either way, I custom made some full length brackets to go under seat rails and used longer grade 8 hardware. It works wonders. I can now move my first aid kit, jumper cables, 150ft extension cord, and my lock out kit back there...which frees up the floor board space under the seat where I kept that stuff originally. I have a 2013 crew cab so there's a ton of room back there, why dodge didn't design this a little different is beyond me. And for the naysayers about the mounting points blah blah blah, there's ways to do it properly, which I've done, even though the seat is never used as a seat in my truck...

 

[Racefan]

Has anyone with a quad cab done this? I've been thinking about it but I don't know if there is any less room or the same amount in a QC. Maybe it isn't worth the hassle. Ideally, I'd just store stuff like my snowbrush and a few other odds and ends that don't fit under the seats. I have the fold flat things as well if that matters. Also, I have 3 kids, aged 9, 12 and a 10 month old in a rear facing seat (it's tight in the QC but it fits! Didn't think I'd be having another when I bought the truck, but life happens!), so I'd want to make absolutely sure it's safe for them. Would it be better to trim the hooks or raise the seat?

 

[wannahdawg]

It's no where near as much as a crew cab. I would say it's not worth the trouble. I've done my crew cab, and looked at a quad cab my buddy has...it's not worth it IMO....

 

[Ruiner]

Has anyone with a quad cab done this? I've been thinking about it but I don't know if there is any less room or the same amount in a QC. Maybe it isn't worth the hassle. Ideally, I'd just store stuff like my snowbrush and a few other odds and ends that don't fit under the seats. I have the fold flat things as well if that matters. Also, I have 3 kids, aged 9, 12 and a 10 month old in a rear facing seat (it's tight in the QC but it fits! Didn't think I'd be having another when I bought the truck, but life happens!), so I'd want to make absolutely sure it's safe for them. Would it be better to trim the hooks or raise the seat?

I through rarely used items back there, snow brush, winterfront, spare shoes, towels, etc.

I raised the seat. It's just enough and I don't worry about the safety as much as I would trimming the hooks.

 

[John Jensen]

I was just curious if anyone cut the tab down and did it that way...seems like a safer and more "factory" way of doing it.

I did - works perfect! I cut where the nylon wraps around the tab - 5/8" off.

 

[gunner_herman]

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