Front door component amplification question?

[Gearhead87]

(Stock 8.4 unit)I have new speakers installed all the way around including a stealth box, 2 pacs and a 5 channel amp powering everything. It sounds great except the components in the front are not very loud. I know the signal is split. My question is whats the best way to get them to have a full range signal or to be as loud or louder than my dash speakers?

 

[WilliamS]

Wire dash speakers on their own amp and cap the wires going up to them from the factory. If you have good component in the doors you may not need the dash speakers. So first thing I would do is pull the dash speakers and unplug them.

 

[Gearhead87]

Would I need to run another PAC? what wires should I tap. I would like to keep the dash and turn them down once I get the components where I want them.

 

[b5rider]

(Stock 8.4 unit)I have new speakers installed all the way around including a stealth box, 2 pacs and a 5 channel amp powering everything. It sounds great except the components in the front are not very loud. I know the signal is split. My question is whats the best way to get them to have a full range signal or to be as loud or louder than my dash speakers?

Where did you pick up the signal for the PACs?
I'm getting ready to install a similar system and I've read some posts regarding the HU not sending signal if you disconnect any speakers due to the loss of resistance. Maybe the fronts are not getting full signal because the dash speakers are disconnected?
I'm going to pull the signal for my LOC from the HU in the hopes of getting full signal. I'll probably end up wiring in some resistors just to make sure I get full signal

 

[WilliamS]

does your amp have a pass through? A lot of amps will have a line in and line out so you can daisy chain the amps for multiple channels and components.

What amp are you running.

 

[adurm]

Did you tap the amplified signal back into the stock wiring? If so your amp might be working with a high resistance load decreasing the power to the components. Like 6 ohms. I too would ditch the stock dash speakers. I doubt you could get them to blend well anyways.

 

[adurm]

Where did you pick up the signal for the PACs?
I'm getting ready to install a similar system and I've read some posts regarding the HU not sending signal if you disconnect any speakers due to the loss of resistance. Maybe the fronts are not getting full signal because the dash speakers are disconnected?
I'm going to pull the signal for my LOC from the HU in the hopes of getting full signal. I'll probably end up wiring in some resistors just to make sure I get full signal

You can test that by disconnecting a speaker. If you get no sound from anything, you will need resistors on your loc.

 

[thebiggesthorn]

none of those speakers are split into component signals, they are all full range.
have you tried to intercept the signal headed to the speakers and use a product like audiocontrol or RF 360.2?

also, you can try higher sensitivity speakers that dont require a lot of power. they will be louder at the same volume level on the deck/amp.

 

[BlackGhost]

If you have the non alpine system, all the channels are full range. I'm assuming since you're running a 5 Channel, you can just adjust the gain for the front accordingly to where they're matched with the effectiveness of the dash speakers. But if you're running a passive crossover network, try seeing if there's a "switch" for your tweeter levels

Also, just in case anybody was looking into it... I recently picked up a used AudioControl LC8i and it fits perfect behind the bezel, right under the radio. There were two screws there already that lined up perfectly so no modification required.

 

[baum]

Have you played with the gains on the amp? What 5 channel amp do you have? What pac converters did you get? Do they have the adjustment screws on it? Are the converters wired correctly (pos and neg)? what kind of components do you have? do you have both the dash 3.5" and a set of components hooked up?

to the person above talking about pass through on the amps it makes no difference if he has a 2, 4, 5 channel amp. power is power.

 

[Gearhead87]

Amp: GM-D9605 - Class D 5-Channel Amplifier with Wired Bass Boost Remote | Pioneer Electronics USA

PAC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dash: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDJC7NI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front Doors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JN8926I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rear Doors: https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-40CS6...TF8&qid=1508161038&sr=8-4&keywords=kicker+6x9

Sub: SB-D-QDRAM/10W3v3 - Car Audio - Stealthbox® - Dodge - JL Audio

So so what amp should I get to power the fronts?

 

[Gearhead87]

Have you played with the gains on the amp? What 5 channel amp do you have? What pac converters did you get? Do they have the adjustment screws on it? Are the converters wired correctly (pos and neg)? what kind of components do you have? do you have both the dash 3.5" and a set of components hooked up?

to the person above talking about pass through on the amps it makes no difference if he has a 2, 4, 5 channel amp. power is power.

I have both hooked up. I dont think the pacs can be adjusted. I have played with the amp the dash speakers are always louder than the doors.

 

[b5rider]

I have both hooked up. I dont think the pacs can be adjusted. I have played with the amp the dash speakers are always louder than the doors.

are you running all speakers from the amp?
If you are running the dash from the HU and the components from the amp, you are probably screwing up the ohm load from the HU.
factory dash speakers are 8 ohms; factory door speakers are 4 ohm. These are run in parallel, for a total resistance of @2.7

If you want to run dash speakers off an amp, I would suggest getting 3-way components. This way the Ohm load is consistent from the amp and the HU has no speakers to power (you might need resistors to trick the HU into thinking speakers are still hooked up as most LOCs do not have resistance built in)

You also could try wiring a potentiometer to the dash speakers to attenuate the signal and see if that helps to 'independently' tune your dash speakers

 

[adrianp89]

The fix is simple. Ditch the dash speakers, move the tweeters from the Kicker components to the dash. Taking it a step further, bridge the components off the amp and leave the rears powered by the head unit. You will have a better sounding and louder system.

 

[Gearhead87]

are you running all speakers from the amp?
If you are running the dash from the HU and the components from the amp, you are probably screwing up the ohm load from the HU.
factory dash speakers are 8 ohms; factory door speakers are 4 ohm. These are run in parallel, for a total resistance of @2.7

If you want to run dash speakers off an amp, I would suggest getting 3-way components. This way the Ohm load is consistent from the amp and the HU has no speakers to power (you might need resistors to trick the HU into thinking speakers are still hooked up as most LOCs do not have resistance built in)

You also could try wiring a potentiometer to the dash speakers to attenuate the signal and see if that helps to 'independently' tune your dash speakers

All speakers are running from the amp. I was originally looking at the JL 3 way component but decided on a budget build and use the extra money saved towards tuning and deleting.

 

[baum]

You cant properly tune a setup like you have listed. the 3.5 will blow/distort long before the 6.5 will. I agree ditch the 3.5. use the amp for the fronts and rears or just the components.

the pac sni-35 is adjustable (look at the link you posted). they have screws to adjust also.

 

[Witch]

https://pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-interfacing/ap4-ch41


should work well with 5 channel amp

Ditch 3.5's and put the tweeters in the dash

Rock on ?

 

[baum]

https://pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-interfacing/ap4-ch41

that is if the Op has a factory alpine setup.

 

[Gearhead87]

https://pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-interfacing/ap4-ch41


should work well with 5 channel amp

Ditch 3.5's and put the tweeters in the dash

Rock on ?

Yeah, I dont have the Alpine system.