H7 vs H8 battery replacement

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1500Hoosier

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2021 Ram V8
Should I replace my current battery with a H8....why.
75,000 miles, has the original OEM battery.
Its starting to drag a bit when starting.
 

CanuckRam1313

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H8 upgrade is of benefit as the CA and CCA are greater than the H7.

There is no issue whatsoever that doing the H8 upgrade would affect your factory warranty either.

The other decision to make when purchasing the H8 (or H7 for that matter) is going to an AGM battery (if so, look at Odyssey or Optima or Interstate) or sticking the standard acid filled battery.
 

Burla

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In theory it should last longer in cold regions, take advantage of the longer battery life by having more capacity in the bank. Plus, for interstate the h8 for some reason was even cheaper, just need to make it sit in the tray, no reason not to go h8 imo, huge benefit in cold states. If you think of capacity as chips in a bank account, you have more chips to lose thus longer lifespan as far as capacity goes, is the theory. In warm states, maybe not worth even messing with it, just stay with h7 because you already have a low lifespan.

Understand the balance of batteries, cold = long lifespan less capacity, hot = less lifespan more capacity.


ity-battery-life-compared-at-different-temperature.jpg
 

Burla

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From a battery blog...

Capacity. H7 batteries generally offer lower capacity compared to H8 batteries, which might not be sufficient for vehicles with higher power requirements or more electrical accessories. Longevity. Due to their smaller size, H7 batteries may have a shorter lifespan under high-demand conditions compared to H8 batteries.
 

Burla

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Granted I don’t have a RAM but I recently upgraded the factory H6 battery in my F150 to an H8 and even my stop/start started working again, much to my dismay.
Corey bought an eliminator for his Cherokee, I think most applications have an option to eliminate that. I think he paid 135 bucks.

What year f150? You like it?

.
 

tidefan1967

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Corey bought an eliminator for his Cherokee, I think most applications have an option to eliminate that. I think he paid 135 bucks.

What year f150? You like it?

.
Oh, trust me I bought the “Auto stop/start eliminator” a couple of days later. It’s a 22 Lariat. I recently traded my wife’s RAV4 for a slightly used 23 Grand Cherokee, now if I could just find a way to permanently deactivate the auto stop start feature in it. Does anybody know any tricks? I don’t think you can unplug that little sensor on the battery like you could on the previous generation to deactivate it.
 

BlueHemi1500

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Hello All,
Infrequent site visitor due to work/life balance issues.
I just recently replaced my factory H7 battery with an H8 battery AGM.
Bigger in size and also weighs more, make sure the battery has handles.
It also has more cranking amps than the factory. I hope to get at least 4 years from this battery.
As noted, there is a black plastic part that is in the bottom that must be removed, easily done (flat blade screwdriver.)
You also need a bigger battery blanket, there is a mopar part that is made for the H8 battery.
I kept the old H7 blanket and the black plastic part for future needs.
The H8 cost $20.oo more from SAMS (they even installed the battery), and for about $215.oo or so I was ready to go in 15 minutes start to finish.
IHMO is well worth the extra cranking amps and is a worthwhile investment.
I did not have the usual reported warning lights, kept the radio settings. But I did not have any heat (15 F outside and had a 3-hour drive.) But the seat heater and steering wheel heater made it bearable. Make sure to park the truck where it can see the sky clearly to "phone home." The next day HVAC worked as normal, I can't remember if I had to reset the temps or not.
IHMO - well worth the change/upgrade for the extra security to start in the cold weather here.

BlueHemi1500
 

Sherman Bird

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Should I replace my current battery with a H8....why.
75,000 miles, has the original OEM battery.
Its starting to drag a bit when starting.
Bigger must be better, correct? Gosh!, look at the lampoon of "Tim, the Tool Man Taylor"!!! He was always rewiring, adding power, and a host of other ridiculing actions to make light of consequences unseen or not considered. Launching the Barbeque pit like the space shuttle was pretty cute!

Now, seriously, let's answer your question with FACTS, not Ruhr! Ruhr! Ruhr! man-stuff urban beliefs steeped in the aroma of testosterone.

The fact is, your truck uses OBD2 enhanced CAN/BUS to monitor and control the maintenance of the STATE OF CHARGE of the battery. This is programmed into the PCM, and in some cases, the BCM gets involved. An alternator is not designed to nor is it capable of repeated deep discharge rejuvenation of a battery. It is designed to MAINTAIN a state of charge. This is done by monitoring the capacitance % at different levels of systems demands.

In a nutshell, TOO large of a battery will outstrip the ability for the alternator to keep a battery up to the level of capacitance designed into the particular vehicle. There ARE circumstances where a larger battery CAN be retrofitted, but one needs to consult FACTORY guidelines as to that end.

Many's the time I've been called upon to solve the cycle where a hapless guy puts too large of a battery in a vehicle, and all's just ticker tape and champagne at first. A few months later, the alternator fails due to constantly trying to maintain capacitance of too much battery, and succumbing to heat failure, as evidenced by crispy black field windings. So, he replaces the alternator, it now tries to maintain a weak battery, and the battery fails 6 months or so later. New battery gets installed, and the alternator fails soon thereafter. And so on. My solution EVERY TIME has been to install the correct battery and a new alternator at the same time.... SUCCESS!

In closing, make sure your truck can handle the "Voltmaster 5000 by Binford" by consulting factory specs. Good luck! ;)
 

rule18

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Oh, trust me I bought the “Auto stop/start eliminator” a couple of days later. It’s a 22 Lariat. I recently traded my wife’s RAV4 for a slightly used 23 Grand Cherokee, now if I could just find a way to permanently deactivate the auto stop start feature in it. Does anybody know any tricks? I don’t think you can unplug that little sensor on the battery like you could on the previous generation to deactivate it.
There's a company called Autostop Eliminator that makes what you're looking for, not sure about your specific year.
 

BlueHemi1500

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Bigger must be better, correct? Gosh!, look at the lampoon of "Tim, the Tool Man Taylor"!!! He was always rewiring, adding power, and a host of other ridiculing actions to make light of consequences unseen or not considered. Launching the Barbeque pit like the space shuttle was pretty cute!

Now, seriously, let's answer your question with FACTS, not Ruhr! Ruhr! Ruhr! man-stuff urban beliefs steeped in the aroma of testosterone.

The fact is, your truck uses OBD2 enhanced CAN/BUS to monitor and control the maintenance of the STATE OF CHARGE of the battery. This is programmed into the PCM, and in some cases, the BCM gets involved. An alternator is not designed to nor is it capable of repeated deep discharge rejuvenation of a battery. It is designed to MAINTAIN a state of charge. This is done by monitoring the capacitance % at different levels of systems demands.

In a nutshell, TOO large of a battery will outstrip the ability for the alternator to keep a battery up to the level of capacitance designed into the particular vehicle. There ARE circumstances where a larger battery CAN be retrofitted, but one needs to consult FACTORY guidelines as to that end.

Many's the time I've been called upon to solve the cycle where a hapless guy puts too large of a battery in a vehicle, and all's just ticker tape and champagne at first. A few months later, the alternator fails due to constantly trying to maintain capacitance of too much battery, and succumbing to heat failure, as evidenced by crispy black field windings. So, he replaces the alternator, it now tries to maintain a weak battery, and the battery fails 6 months or so later. New battery gets installed, and the alternator fails soon thereafter. And so on. My solution EVERY TIME has been to install the correct battery and a new alternator at the same time.... SUCCESS!

In closing, make sure your truck can handle the "Voltmaster 5000 by Binford" by consulting factory specs. Good luck! ;)
Darn,
How did you know I put in the "Voltmaster 5000", along with Binford's new "Super Alternator 12K,!"
I love me, some Binford Tools and Hardware :), Tim is my primary mechanic :).

Well now that I have read what you had to say, I now look back at the above information :(.
I am not a mechanic, so I rely on the information from several forums/message bases to make what I think are reasonable decisions on repair/maintenance tasks/measures. Yours is the first cautionary tale that I have read, wish, I had seen this a few weeks ago :(.
Now I guess I wait to see what the "roll of the dice," brings. I do, keep my on the voltage gauge, in the display page. The voltage ranges from 14.0-14.5 volts when on the freeway. Far less than the 14.8 volts, when the factory battery was near the end of life (lasted almost 5 full years just short of a few weeks.) So I hope, I do not, "fry" the electronics so to speak.

BlueHemi1500
 
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1500Hoosier

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Geez......
Now I'm not sure what battery I should get.
My 2021 1500 has a Hemi e torque engine.
Current battery is:
CCA 730
RC 140
Ahr 80
EN 630
I have no idea what any of this means. I bought the truck used, I am assuming that this is the factory installed battery?
I'm reading post that I should get an H7 AGM, but maybe get the bigger H8?
What say you
 

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BlueHemi1500

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Geez......
Now I'm not sure what battery I should get.
My 2021 1500 has a Hemi e torque engine.
Current battery is:
CCA 730
RC 140
Ahr 80
EN 630
I have no idea what any of this means. I bought the truck used, I am assuming that this is the factory installed battery?
I'm reading post that I should get an H7 AGM, but maybe get the bigger H8?
What say you
With the E-Tourque - IHMO I would get the factory specification, as the E-Tourque is a far different and more complex system from my truck which is just the 5.7 non-E-torque system.

BlueHemi1500
 

crash68

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Current battery is:
CCA 730
RC 140
Ahr 80
EN 630
From those spec and the part# on the side of the battery, that is the same battery spec for the Hemi long before the e-Torque option and it's an OEM part.
There won't be any issues upgrading to a H8 size or AGM type battery
 

HEMIMANN

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You are in northern Colorado, so pay the few extra shekels for the H8 for your weather.

I went with the H7 and wish I did the H8. This before I knew the H8 would fit if you get rid of the spacer in the battery tray. Then again, the H8 is so heavy its quite the chore to hoist it up into the tray. Thinking I'll use an engine hoist or my overhead gantry crane the next time. Or you could be like Rick and re-cable the thing to your truck bed!

The H7 is ok, but marginal here in flyover land weather. Also marginal if you added a bunch of electronic gizmos to your truck.
I live where "Operation Not Recommended" weather occurred for the last 21 days straight - literally:

1740243281348.png
 

Wild one

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Darn,
How did you know I put in the "Voltmaster 5000", along with Binford's new "Super Alternator 12K,!"
I love me, some Binford Tools and Hardware :), Tim is my primary mechanic :).

Well now that I have read what you had to say, I now look back at the above information :(.
I am not a mechanic, so I rely on the information from several forums/message bases to make what I think are reasonable decisions on repair/maintenance tasks/measures. Yours is the first cautionary tale that I have read, wish, I had seen this a few weeks ago :(.
Now I guess I wait to see what the "roll of the dice," brings. I do, keep my on the voltage gauge, in the display page. The voltage ranges from 14.0-14.5 volts when on the freeway. Far less than the 14.8 volts, when the factory battery was near the end of life (lasted almost 5 full years just short of a few weeks.) So I hope, I do not, "fry" the electronics so to speak.

BlueHemi1500
Don't worry Sherms always got some Doom Sayer news. I've been running a huge group 31 for many years in my truck,and it's also relocated to the box of the truck,and the alternator works perfectly fine at keeping it charged.
If anybody would of had issues with the alternator it would of been me,as the battery is a good 15 ft from where it originally sat,and is fed using heavy duty welding cables,plus runs through "2" master disconnect switches ,and the track checks on a weekly basis to make sure the bumper mounted switch shuts the truck off.Check out the specs on my battery,it's massive in size and weight,lol


  • Offers more than 2x the cycle life of regular AGM batteries and 4X the cycle life of conventional flooded deep cycle batteries
  • Withstands deep discharges allowing you to take advantage of more of the battery's rated amp hour
  • Accepts the maximum amount of amps that an alternator or battery charger can deliver for astonishingly fast recharges
  • Truly maintenance-free: no messy or dangerous acid spills
  • Mounts in virtually any position, no gassing (under normal charging), never requires water to be added and brass terminals will never build corrosion
  • Stores for up to 2 years on a full charge with no loss of capacity, ideal for off-season storage
  • Up to 28X more vibration resistant than a conventional marine battery to handle the roughest waters or terrain
  • 2150 Pulse crank amps, 1370 marine crank amps, 103 amp hours, 220 minute reserve capacity
  • Dimensions: 13" L x 6-3/4" W x 9-3/4" H (330 x 170 x 635 mm)
  • Warranty: 4 year exchange
 

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