Head gaskets

[65GMK]

Stupid question but the mopar head gaskets for my 2010 Ram 1500 5.7 are marked "L" and "R" for left and right side. Is this from driver's seat. Meaning if I'm sitting inside the truck would head gasket marked L go to the driver's side. Thanks

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Stupid question but the mopar head gaskets for my 2010 Ram 1500 5.7 are marked "L" and "R" for left and right side. Is this from driver's seat. Meaning if I'm sitting inside the truck would head gasket marked L go to the driver's side. Thanks

It is always looking from the driver's seat. The left bank is the driver's side and the right bank is the passenger side.

 

[65GMK]

Thanks for the clarity. Pulling off the heads today. Cam/lifter failure thing. Have a mds delte kit coming from AMS but wanted to use factory head gaskets instead of the ones in the kit. Thanks again!

 

[65GMK]

Fast69 are all the holes for the head bolt blind? No sealant against water needed? Sorry about all the simple questions I stopped working on vehicles back in the early 2000's and don't miss it one bit either. 2010 ram 1500 5.7 hemi motor

 

[Brando_SLT]

Fast69 are all the holes for the head bolt blind? No sealant against water needed? Sorry about all the simple questions I stopped working on vehicles back in the early 2000's and don't miss it one bit either. 2010 ram 1500 5.7 hemi motor

No sealant on the head gaskets. Straight metal-to-metal. Make sure you have a clean mating surface on both the cylinders and the heads. When you get to the torquing procedure, it's abundant clamping pressure to be water (and air) tight between the heads, gaskets, and cylinders.

 

[65GMK]

Fast69 was asking about the bolt head threads screwing down into the block. If the holes are blind or they extend down into the block where coolant can seep through bolt threads. Man I really appreciate the help. Got everything apart now except water pump and front cover. Can't get harmonic balancer bolt to budge. No access to an air gun. Somebody recommended using a breaker bar against the frame and bumping the starter to break it loose. I don't know if that is a good idea. Any thoughts?

 

[Brando_SLT]

Sounds like you're doing a lot more than a head job/head swap. I didn't have to remove all that to swap out my heads. You should be able to get everything apart without an impact. In fact, I would advise against it. Use a breaker bar and go slow to break those nuts and bolts loose. We're not working on 1930s trucks with all-steel hardware here. These are vehicles made from steel, aluminum, stainless, and other allots that should have innate corrosion resistance.

Except for f@+#&ing exhaust studs. Man those suck.

Fast69 was asking about the bolt head threads screwing down into the block. If the holes are blind or they extend down into the block where coolant can seep through bolt threads. Man I really appreciate the help. Got everything apart now except water pump and front cover. Can't get harmonic balancer bolt to budge. No access to an air gun. Somebody recommended using a breaker bar against the frame and bumping the starter to break it loose. I don't know if that is a good idea. Any thoughts?

 

[65GMK]

Brando 10 4 on them FN exhaust bolts lol. Just unbolted from the collector and pulled heads with exhaust manifolds still on the heads and you are correct doing more than just changing the heads. Cam failure so pulling the heads to get to the lifters and front of engine to get the cam out. Finally got the balancer bolt out so all is good there. Thanks for the reply man!

 

[65GMK]

Another stupid question. Once you align the two marks on the timing chain at 12 o'clock and single mark at six on the crank gear(old cam still in truck at this point), but once I've aligned all timing marks properly. How you position thr new cam to the exact location the old one was sitting at before bolting sprocket back into new cam? Also the correct steps to take everything apart from the old cam prior to actually pulling it out of the block. First time ever working on hemi engines and first time in 20 years working on any brand motor. Any help much appreciated. I don't know my much which os why I'm here.

 

[65GMK]

Haven't took cam out yet but looking at replacement has a small pin assuming that's for alignment so it can only bolt onto cam gear one way thus taking care of proper orientation in relation to how the old cam was bolted to the gear

 

[Zinger1]

There should be some marks on your chain and you line those up with the lines on the crank gear and valve sprocket gear as shown in the pics below. (the mark on the crank gear is pretty small and at the front base of a gear tooth but hard to see. I used an etcher to mark it better, still hard to see) With the mark on top at the 12 oclock position, the one on the bottom is just about 6 position



Best of luck, I'm just bolting mine together!

 

[Crooks1130]

There is a huge cheat here that I was taught. If the heads are off, turn the crank to put cylinder 1 at top dead center. Then position the cam where the dowel pin is at 12:00. Once that is done the timing is set and none of the markings matter. Just get the chain on, line up the dowel pin with the cam phaser, and tighten it all down.

 

[11Ram0utd00rsman]

Another stupid question. Once you align the two marks on the timing chain at 12 o'clock and single mark at six on the crank gear(old cam still in truck at this point), but once I've aligned all timing marks properly. How you position thr new cam to the exact location the old one was sitting at before bolting sprocket back into new cam? Also the correct steps to take everything apart from the old cam prior to actually pulling it out of the block. First time ever working on hemi engines and first time in 20 years working on any brand motor. Any help much appreciated. I don't know my much which os why I'm here.

Put cylinder 1 at top dead center make sure your timing marks are lined up as well. Then tear her down. When putting it back line up your timing marks again and she will fire right up. I just did the lifters in mine. There is a YouTube video showing you the correct position for the timing marks

 

[DILLIGAF]

Most important part often missed it checking your work with a degree wheel. Every dude on here that screwed up the cam swap didnt bother using one and they were also to lazy to drop the oil pan... lol...