Header options

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rossbg

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Hello. First time posting. I have read through a lot of the posts but could not really find an answer to the questions I have about header selection.

Firstly, I have a 2010 RAM 1500, 5.7, Quad cab, 6 speed. 126,000 km. I noticed a couple weeks ago an exhaust leak started and after doing some reading here learned about the broken manifold bolt issue. I have decided on replacing the stock manifolds with headers in the hope that I won't have to remove any more broken bolts from the heads. My question is what type of header would I use to minimize or eliminate the need for modification to any of the existing exhaust system. Basically, is there a "bolt on" solution for headers?

You guys have a great forum here.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions you have.
 

69GWC

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Shorty headers are what you are after, JBA I believe makes quality ones.
 

S0CAL

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There is no guarantee that swapping exhaust manifolds for headers will prevent bolts from breaking over time. Does it lessen, with grade 8 fasteners? Sure. For many, the rationale for doing headers is if they're going through all the trouble of extracting broken manifold bolts anyway, it is the perfect time to put in either shorty or longtube headers. There are advantages to both. In all cases, different manufacturers have varying degrees of fitment. I can tell you first hand that ARH LT headers fit beautifully. Others say JBAs and AFE are good too. Some run BBK shorties. It all depends on what you want out of the header.

Regardless of how you do go, make sure to run a tuner to maximize the performance gains from aftermarket headers.

Good luck!
 
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rossbg

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Yes, that was part of my decision to go to headers. However I also read somewhere that the issue may also be because of dissimilar expansion and contraction rates of cast manifolds to aluminum heads and that headers could possibly ease those expansion differentials.
 

69GWC

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I have not read of anybody with headers breaking bolts off so for me that alone makes them a better choice over the stock manifolds that we know will break bolts.

Shorties are the cheap easy way to go just to try to fix this problem, but if you are looking for max Preformance get LTs and a Y pipe and a good tune. Its just alot more money if you are not looking to build a hotrod.

jusy my 2 cents
 

S0CAL

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LT's for more power throughout the powerband, shorties for the topend (Correction, Low End). 1 3/4 diameter unless you plan to add a CAM, etc. later.
 
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69GWC

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I am pretty sure Shorties preform from low to mid range and lack on the topend compared to LTs.
LTs move the hp and torque curve up in the rpm range while making more power over shorties.
I do believe shorties to be a better choice for a DD over LTs being they keep the power down lower in the power curve plus being alittle quieter.

just my opinion.
 

daveray9

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I have to do this because I have broken bolts... anyone get a quote on this? I can't remove the broken bolts myself so.. def doing this at a shop.
 

S0CAL

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All depends on the shoprate. I had 2 bolts extracted for 2 hours shop rate, before they installed the headers. Out the door I paid $1100 with the headers installed. I provided gaskets, fasteners.
 

Bldrinker

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All depends on the shoprate. I had 2 bolts extracted for 2 hours shop rate, before they installed the headers. Out the door I paid $1100 with the headers installed. I provided gaskets, fasteners.

What brand headers?

I’m looking at going
JBA shorty $700
ARP bolts $80
Remflex gaskets $50
Install $400 ( that’s if no bolts broken)
$1230 total.
 

theviking

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FWIW, if you're going to spend that much on shorties I'd be very tempted just to save up another $800 and go with the long tubes. I've used ARH and Kooks on my vehicles and both are fantastic. On my 2500 I dropped about 1 sec in 0-60 times just by adding the ARH long tube headers.
 

Bldrinker

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FWIW, if you're going to spend that much on shorties I'd be very tempted just to save up another $800 and go with the long tubes. I've used ARH and Kooks on my vehicles and both are fantastic. On my 2500 I dropped about 1 sec in 0-60 times just by adding the ARH long tube headers.

In my case I could care less about power increase.

I just want to stop breaking manifold bolts.

Besides I live in CA where long tubes are not smog legal and relocating the cats don’t fly.
Plus way more money.

As it is I’m pissed at spending money to fix something that should not be an issue to begin with.
 

nateinva

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What brand headers?

I’m looking at going
JBA shorty $700
ARP bolts $80
Remflex gaskets $50
Install $400 ( that’s if no bolts broken)
$1230 total.
Be sure to shop prices at Moe's Performance. He's a supporting vendor here and his prices are competitive across the board. Just ordered cam kit, JBA shorties and gaskets from him. Awesome guy all around, fast shipping, highly recommend. Matt won't let you down.
 

nateinva

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I am pretty sure Shorties preform from low to mid range and lack on the topend compared to LTs.
LTs move the hp and torque curve up in the rpm range while making more power over shorties.
I do believe shorties to be a better choice for a DD over LTs being they keep the power down lower in the power curve plus being alittle quieter.

just my opinion.

Yep, and why I went this route...even with a cam going in. I'll have JBA shorties in my hands this eve and on the truck tomorrow.

My truck's a DD and won't likely be on the track for any reason. With having the cam replaced and heads pulled off figured it was a perfect time to throw shorties on there to compliment the other mods I've done.

Things are coming together.
 

theviking

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In my case I could care less about power increase.

I just want to stop breaking manifold bolts.

Besides I live in CA where long tubes are not smog legal and relocating the cats don’t fly.
Plus way more money.

As it is I’m pissed at spending money to fix something that should not be an issue to begin with.

Understand, are there no aftermarket bolt/stud options that work with the factory logs?
 

Bldrinker

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Understand, are there no aftermarket bolt/stud options that work with the factory logs?

Not sure. But the manifolds probably heat soak worse than headers which creates the warping that breaks bolts.
 

AzCats

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In my case I could care less about power increase.

I just want to stop breaking manifold bolts.

Besides I live in CA where long tubes are not smog legal and relocating the cats don’t fly.
Plus way more money.

As it is I’m pissed at spending money to fix something that should not be an issue to begin with.

I'm in the same situation Carb legal shortys are my only option.
 

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