HELP AUDIO Alpine system owners I screwed up... and now I have questions!

[Mbrigh3]

Hey guys,

So I have the alpine audio system in my truck and I decided to add a different 8 sub which is going to have its own amp....

Well today I hooked it all up and my ******* used the L/R wires from the original sub enclosure. Nowhere in my mind did it click that I was running Alpine AMPED wires into my second Pioneer amp. Needless to say that is not the correct way to do it and my sub sounded like crap ( not to mention a slight burning smell).

Its currently unconnected and I am looking for a easy place to tap in ( like behind the head unit).

My plan is to pull out my 8.4 headunit out and tap into that for the L/R as well as the Remote line.

Now that its all done, I realizing that I could have basically left the stock Alpine system alone and just adding a second sub because thats basically what im doing isnt it? I am pretty sure I could fit a small box under the front passenger seat without a problem which would give me the Pioneer as a second sub.



My original goal was to just replace the stock sub and use the stock box for the independently run Pioneer sub but not my mind is wondering.... Regardless I need to tap in somewhere to get this second line to run smoothly

I am far from a pro on electronics but I am learning... slowly

Goal: Not to give up fold flat flooring nor buy any other amps or subs then what I have currently.

This is what I am trying to add listed below

-Pioneer TS-SW2002d2 8"

-Amp for the sub: Pioneer GM-A3702 500w Max 190RMS

-Sub controller: Scosche LOC90 Speaker to RCA Line Output Converter



Suggestions? Opinions? Correct me if I am going down the wrong path.

 

[BWL]

You should have been able to run of the sub wires to the amp. Perhaps that amp can't handle that much. Audio control LC2 will take the factory sub signal and give you RCA to your amp as well as reduce the roll off the alpine amp has to the sub, but your line converter should not have blown. Sub sounding like crap with an 8 in the factory enclosure with that amp you'll struggle to get much better than the stock performance. Also the sub will smell a little when breaking it in, but trying to get too much out of it and feeding it power past the clipping point will burn it up. Lots of guys keep the alpine amp and swap the sub for the pioneer shallow mount sub. Once again with that enclosure you won't get great bass. As far as getting good bass and keeping the load floor. It's a tricky endeavor. I pulled it off, but it's not perfect and it was pricey. If you're handy you could try to build a custom fg enclosure with a sub that requires minimal airspace such as a Sundown SA-3 8" or JL audio 10TW1 like I have a pair of. I'm convinced that either of those can be fitted under there.

 

[TomT]

It sounds like you might be sending too much voltage into the LOC and creating some distortion.

The best (although most expensive) way to do this is to add a PAC Audio AmpPRO up front and then run an RCA back to your sub amp.
https://pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-interfacing/ap4-ch41

Speaking of your sub amp, are you sure of the load that the sub is showing it?

 

[Mbrigh3]

what?

 

[Witch]

Your amp does have speaker level inputs, but I agree, the cheapest way out with a good result is the LC2i


Gery/Brown = SUB 1 +

Green/Brown = SUB 1 -

Green/White = Sub 2 -

Grey White = Sub 2 +

If you don't want to cut the harness

https://www.netaudiowf.com/product/dodge-ram-alpine-system/


it solves a multitude of problems , make sure you have the polarity correct using the LC2i or the speaker level inputs on the amp

If they are correct you more than likely have have the gain set to high, Keep in mind it is not volume, it is to level out voltage input from the source to the amp


If you want to have a path to upgrade the whole shooting match then the AmpPro or a DSR1 is the way to roll

Both of these options will get the Alpine amp out of the loop and opens up unlimited options

 

[rotwiler]

Odd my factory subs wires are not that color, trying to figure out L and R for sure. Should I use 9v battery? Here is picture of my wires to sub.

 

[Mbrigh3]

Guys mine was a simple fix... the eq kn the sub controller was turned up to high. I turned it down and used the gain on the amp. Boom problem solved this hits now! Problem solved. I gotta move the amp though it needs to be cooled.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Witch]

Odd my factory subs wires are not that color, trying to figure out L and R for sure. Should I use 9v battery? Here is picture of my wires to sub.

View attachment 128616

In the 13 it must be different ?

Mbrigh, Congrats, glad you got it going

Beer 30 here

 

[Mbrigh3]

Yea rhe scorche controller EQ was way to high. I turned that down and was able to use the amp. The wife will be pleased the truck vibrates real good haha

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Mbrigh3]

Okay guys, I think I am returning the amp and removing the sub. I hear it bump and see it bump but it only sounds good if you like rock and I cant justify the expense. The rest of it just kind of sounds like crap and doesnt blend with the rest of the system. I will say this set up hits hits hard if you love rock. My issue is most my music is rap and for the most part I think the stock alpine system sounded just as good.

I most likely will be putting the Alpine sub back in until I can figure out a way to add a 10" sub under the seat and keep my fold flat flooring.

I am going to take my set up to a audio shop and have them take a quick look before I do anything crazy.

 

[BWL]

My 2 10's don't hit super low, but they do put out a lot more than the factory system. Trying to get rap to hit low with high SPL may not be possible with the load floor. The reason the guys running 12s lose the floor is because they need more airspace so the box sits higher up and most require a seat lift. My set up is 2 10"TW1 JL audio, which only require .35 cuft airspace in a sealed enclosure. I did a 12" in my 06 on the 40 side custom fibreglass and it hit lower than my 2 10s, but I lost the 40 side of the load floor. There is extra room in the storage wells in my crew cab with the JL box so I think I could get .5 cuft sealed and keep the load floor with a custom box. With a 3/4" seat lift and 1/4" load floor lift like I did to allow some vent space for the driver. Puts the front leg on the ground, but the back leg off the mat by about 3/4" with the load floor out. So when you research subs look for subs that can run in those parameters if you want a chance at success. The boxes that eliminate the floor give you
More airspace and more speaker options. From my research the sub I would try if I went custom FG and tried again would be the sundown SA3 10" to keep the floor. It's designed so it doesn't need any space between the back wall of the enclosure so you can mount it low under the floor has good excurion so it moves more air and takes 500 watts so it would probably put out an easy 4 dB more sound pressure than what I have. Sounds like a little, but it's not. 12's and really deep bass with load floor. I haven't figured out how.

 

[TomT]

Okay guys, I think I am returning the amp and removing the sub. I hear it bump and see it bump but it only sounds good if you like rock and I cant justify the expense. The rest of it just kind of sounds like crap and doesnt blend with the rest of the system. I will say this set up hits hits hard if you love rock. My issue is most my music is rap and for the most part I think the stock alpine system sounded just as good.

I most likely will be putting the Alpine sub back in until I can figure out a way to add a 10" sub under the seat and keep my fold flat flooring.

I am going to take my set up to a audio shop and have them take a quick look before I do anything crazy.

My guess is that the main issue is your signal source. If you are pulling signal from the factory outputs it will be missing the really low notes like you find in Rap.

I still recommend that you try the PAC AmpPRO which goes in front of the Alpine processor/amp and gives you a complete sub output.

 

[BWL]

If you decide you want loud bass on a budget and don't care about the load floor check out Chief6.7s build. Foxbox ported, 2 alpine 12s and a hifonice amp if I recall and would probably give you the bass you're hoping for.

 

[Caleb Yates]

My guess is that the main issue is your signal source. If you are pulling signal from the factory outputs it will be missing the really low notes like you find in Rap.

I still recommend that you try the PAC AmpPRO which goes in front of the Alpine processor/amp and gives you a complete sub output.

I am trying to currently install 2 aftermarket subs with a monoblock and I have been worried that if I tap into the sub wires in my system (I have the Alpine system) I won't get the full range. That seems to be what you are talking about. But for the Alpine system, I heard that if you tap the lines in front of the Alpine system, you will only get constant power lines and I am worried volume control from the radio won't work on the sub. Can anyone clarify that for me?

 

[TomT]

I am trying to currently install 2 aftermarket subs with a monoblock and I have been worried that if I tap into the sub wires in my system (I have the Alpine system) I won't get the full range. That seems to be what you are talking about. But for the Alpine system, I heard that if you tap the lines in front of the Alpine system, you will only get constant power lines and I am worried volume control from the radio won't work on the sub. Can anyone clarify that for me?

If you try and tap the lines before the amp (in the factory Alpine it’s also a processor) you’ll get a bad signal and possibly break everything because it uses CANBUS to send control signals to the amp for volume, etc.

My advice is to bite the bullet and get a PAC AmpPRO. It will make everything work the way you want it to while NOT breaking anything.

 

[madtrucker2016]

You should have been able to run of the sub wires to the amp. Perhaps that amp can't handle that much. Audio control LC2 will take the factory sub signal and give you RCA to your amp as well as reduce the roll off the alpine amp has to the sub, but your line converter should not have blown. Sub sounding like crap with an 8 in the factory enclosure with that amp you'll struggle to get much better than the stock performance. Also the sub will smell a little when breaking it in, but trying to get too much out of it and feeding it power past the clipping point will burn it up. Lots of guys keep the alpine amp and swap the sub for the pioneer shallow mount sub. Once again with that enclosure you won't get great bass. As far as getting good bass and keeping the load floor. It's a tricky endeavor. I pulled it off, but it's not perfect and it was pricey. If you're handy you could try to build a custom fg enclosure with a sub that requires minimal airspace such as a Sundown SA-3 8" or JL audio 10TW1 like I have a pair of. I'm convinced that either of those can be fitted under there.View attachment 128565 View attachment 128566 View attachment 128567 View attachment 128568

looks factory nice JOB

 

[madtrucker2016]

It sounds like you might be sending too much voltage into the LOC and creating some distortion.

The best (although most expensive) way to do this is to add a PAC Audio AmpPRO up front and then run an RCA back to your sub amp.
https://pac-audio.com/catalog/audio-interfacing/ap4-ch41

Speaking of your sub amp, are you sure of the load that the sub is showing it?