Hemi down!

[HemiBrother]

Okay waiting for YouTube video to upload. Takes awhile for some reason when Im on the house Wi-Fi compared to my shops Wi-Fi.

 

[HemiBrother]

Not a good noise for the truck!

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[jws123]

Not a good noise for the truck!

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

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While that is loud it sounds like early stages of a lifter failing. What I would do is change the oil 5w30 some good additive and run it others will post many brands we use on here whole forum thread on it. If your sold on replacing the engine any ways at some point you for sure have alot more mileage left in this engine at some point it will misfire and then its time to replace it.

 

[HemiBrother]

While that is loud it sounds like early stages of a lifter failing. What I would do is change the oil 5w30 some good additive and run it others will post many brands we use on here whole forum thread on it. If your sold on replacing the engine any ways at some point you for sure have alot more mileage left in this engine at some point it will misfire and then its time to replace it.

Only 500 miles on the oil change 5w30 pup. No check engine light or misfire.

 

[EdGs]

......other then a manifold leak engine is quiet when cold starting it’s not till warm up the tick starts and the longer it’s left to run at normal operating temp the louder it gets.

So, are you saying you DO have a manifold leak?

Usually they get quiet when the engine warms up, but the leak can be such that they do not get quiet. You'd be surprised how much those manifolds can warp and twist.

Can the manifold warp to the point that a leak gets worse when warm? Anything is possible.

Would be worth it to check it over with a stethascope to help pinpoint the area, IMO.

Praying for a good solution for you.

 

[Docwagon1776]

I would avoid Jasper, lots of horror stories about them.

You know what makes Jasper motors look good?

Jasper transmissions.

 

[HemiBrother]

So don’t go with jasper by the sounds of it? Also being it’s not got a misfire or misfire code it may be early enough caught that replacement of cam and lifters would do me good for another 100k 5 years. Or just replace with a crate and have piece of mind what’s the opinions on that?

 

[jws123]

So don’t go with jasper by the sounds of it? Also being it’s not got a misfire or misfire code it may be early enough caught that replacement of cam and lifters would do me good for another 100k 5 years. Or just replace with a crate and have piece of mind what’s the opinions on that?

you will be fine witha cam swap however go get prices for both and decide yes avoid jasper they are trash now.

 

[HemiBrother]

you will be fine witha cam swap however go get prices for both and decide yes avoid jasper they are trash now.

Go figure seems like most company’s anymore just have poor quality control. I see a lot of it being in the machining industry. Lots of parts I do use to have very tight tolerances and paid good but a lot of them have lowered standards to get lower work cost but still charge the same amount for end product. I looked into MMX and they look like a great company and have great reviews but 7k and no warranty is scary chance imo. So I’ll see what the cost is for a crate from mopar at the dealer and cost for cam and lifter job and go from there man does the brain get rattled with this stuff!

 

[Docwagon1776]

Go figure seems like most company’s anymore just have poor quality control.

Jasper has been a mediocre option at best for decades, it's not a new thing. You have to remember they are a jack of all trades economy rebuild sort of shop.

 

[TradesmanGuy]

Many many years ago I had some vibrating noise under the dash of my Jeep Wrangler. I tore a lot of it apart and found nothing. Put it back together and nothing was solved. Then something click in my head and I touched the hood supporting rod and voilà, the sound was gone. Removed my fingers and the sound was back. I cut out a piece of foam and slipped and glued it between the rod and the radiator mount and "Problem Solved".

Since then, I maintain that sounds are elusive to find, sometimes as difficult as electrical problems. Locating the source is first, keeping in mind that sounds can travel throughout the body of the auto. An automotive sound diagnostic stethoscope is very handy in locating and pinpointing those abnormal rattles and ticks.

 

[HemiBrother]

That was a waste of time at the dealership. Wants to tear it down to diagnose it. 1,400$ to tear it down to just diagnose it. Yeah I’m good.

 

[TradesmanGuy]

That was a waste of time at the dealership. Wants to tear it down to diagnose it. 1,400$ to tear it down to just diagnose it. Yeah I’m good.

I was quoted $500 to replace a $9 rear axle seal. That's BS I thought. I bought the seal, and did the job in 2 hours, having never done so before. Dealerships make a lot of money from their service departments, and it is because much of the population doesn't own, nor would know what to do with a set of wrenchs or a box of sockets.

I am a subscriber and regular viewer of several YT Channels, and I am aghast at how little some of these guys know. I still chuckle at one guy whose riding lawn mower would not turn over. I think he might have ask his sister what the problem could be, and like many they blame the spark plugs first. After he filmed the replacing the plug with detailed description of each step -- guess what, it still did not turn over. I guess he had just bought it and did not know the brake was to be stepped on or set.

 

[TradesmanGuy]

@HemiBrother, at least the truck starts. Get a stethoscope and see if you can pin-point the source of the ticking. Tis a small cost and maybe a couple of hours, and maybe you won't find it, but better to have tried then to have so easily surrendered to the dealer without attempting to source the problem on your own. Good Luck!

 

[HemiBrother]

I don’t see the point to pin point it down at this point in time. Start the truck there’s your pin point sounds like every Hemi with a failed lifter chewing away at the cam. I fix most stuff myself but when it comes to tearing down a motor and replacing cam and lifters is beyond my skills. Rebuild a dif, replace suspension parts, stuff like that not a problem. I just figured they would confirm it and give me prices on either option to the fix.

 

[EdGs]

I don’t see the point to pin point it down at this point in time. Start the truck there’s your pin point sounds like every Hemi with a failed lifter chewing away at the cam. I fix most stuff myself but when it comes to tearing down a motor and replacing cam and lifters is beyond my skills. Rebuild a dif, replace suspension parts, stuff like that not a problem. I just figured they would confirm it and give me prices on either option to the fix.

Don't sell yourself short.

I've only been inside of 3 engines by myself, replaced a timing set on a 2000 nissan altima 2.4L (maybe that's not really inside the engine), replaced a set of head gaskets on a 2002 Ram 1500 4.7L, and the cam/lifter job on my '15 Hemi.

Plus, my Hemi had 200k on it, your mileage is so much lower at 122k.

I know the stress you are feeling, I'm a chronic worrier on top of being easily stressed.

The Hemi was much more involved in terms of all I replaced, but doable. Plus, I had support from members here when I had questions.

Also, I am extremely untrusting as well. So, there's that.

Don't know where you are in PA, but isn't @Quick_Shifter in PA also? Not sure how close to you, but have heard good things about his shop.

Keep us posted.

 

[TradesmanGuy]

Don't sell yourself short.

I've only been inside of 3 engines by myself, replaced a timing set on a 2000 nissan altima 2.4L (maybe that's not really inside the engine), replaced a set of head gaskets on a 2002 Ram 1500 4.7L, and the cam/lifter job on my '15 Hemi.

The Hemi was much more involved in terms of all I replaced, but doable. Plus, I had support from members here when I had questions.

Also, I am extremely untrusting as well. So, there's that.

Don't know where you are in PA, but isn't @Quick_Shifter in PA also. Not sure how close to you, but have heard good things about his shop.

The real impediment for me would be the sheer size of the Truck. I'm 6'3" and have problems cleaning my windshield. I have to get a stool to get to the middle of the window. Maybe remove all 4 wheels and set the frame on some big lumber, might allow me to reach as far inside the engine bay as needed. But what a PITA.

 

[EdGs]

The real impediment for me would be the sheer size of the Truck. I'm 6'3" and have problems cleaning my windshield. I have to get a stool to get to the middle of the window. Maybe remove all 4 wheels and set the frame on some big lumber, might allow me to reach as far inside the engine bay as needed. But what a PITA.

I'm 5'10". I did have access to a lift and a topside creeper, but I was able to do alot of work through the wheel wells.

 

[Filthy Filbert]

I don’t see the point to pin point it down at this point in time. Start the truck there’s your pin point sounds like every Hemi with a failed lifter chewing away at the cam. I fix most stuff myself but when it comes to tearing down a motor and replacing cam and lifters is beyond my skills. Rebuild a dif, replace suspension parts, stuff like that not a problem. I just figured they would confirm it and give me prices on either option to the fix.

Doing a cam and lifters is way simplier than setting up a rear differential. In a rear diff you gota get the pinion depth set just right and get the backlash between pinion and ring gear set just right, either one shot with crush sleeves or assemble disassembly to shim, make sure the bearing preloads are all set right and that the gears are meshing well together, not riding too high, too low, too tight, too loose....

Cam and lifters, it's just un bolt, remove, install, re bolt. line up the dots and youre good. For a stock cam you wouldn't need to mess with degreeing the cam and whether you need to advance or retard it with offset keys.

 

[vetteyog]

No offence, but why are you taking it to a dealer? Unless it has a warranty, any reputable shop could diagnose your issue for way less $$$