How much of this is really necessary?

[WY-Dave]

Have had all US Big 3 brands and 1 import, all the stealerships try this *****. Like the time my dad took his car to firestone for some brakes and they were going to change some senior $8 to "service" the wiper fluid. I had to step in and asked "how low is it". They came back, "less than half" I told the guy to meet at the gas station next door and I will Service for him. He bought the <$2 gal of fluid and it filled up with about 1/4 gal.
If it were up to the dealers, you would change the trans, axels, washer and blinker fluid with every 1000 mile oil change.

 

[4xdad]

They charged my wife 13cad just to fill the wiper fluid 8cad each for spark plugs 30 years ago needless to say we were asked to never come back after I had words with the service manager I did the service from then on I do most of the work on my truck

 

[4xdad]

It’s definitely worse for women that’s one of the reasons to have a code reader you might not be able to fix something your self but they can’t bs you either

 

[Aggie86]

So you are changing out brake fluid every 5000 miles?

It dosent change out the entire system. Probably 1/3 of the total volume.

 

[Aggie86]

How do you dispose of it?

Goes into my waste oil and a buddy burns it in his oil fired stove.

 

[Dean2]

It dosent change out the entire system. Probably 1/3 of the total volume.

Well then that is a total waste of time and money. Mixing new and old fluid makes zero sense to me. Following that logic, you should only drain half your engine oil.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

Well then that is a total waste of time and money. Mixing new and old fluid makes zero sense to me. Following that logic, you should only drain half your engine oil.

Well...

That is what I do with my transmission fluid.

Instead of the hassle of dropping the pan; I suck out a couple of quarts every 20K miles and replenish with fresh.

Think of it this way.

Let's say the recommendation is to change it at 60K and you need 6 qts.

At 20k take out 2 put in 2 - you now have 1/3 fresh 2/3 old

At 40K you have 2/3 fresh 1/3 old

At 60k you have all fresh and no old.
------------------------------------

Now the smart people here will know that when you take out 2 qts in step 2 and 3 you are taking out some of the new. But if you do this every 20k - does it make a difference?

 

[Dean2]

Well...

That is what I do with my transmission fluid.

Instead of the hassle of dropping the pan; I suck out a couple of quarts every 20K miles and replenish with fresh.

Think of it this way.

Let's say the recommendation is to change it at 60K and you need 6 qts.

At 20k take out 2 put in 2 - you now have 1/3 fresh 2/3 old

At 40K you have 2/3 fresh 1/3 old

At 60k you have all fresh and no old.
------------------------------------

Now the smart people here will know that when you take out 2 qts in step 2 and 3 you are taking out some of the new. But if you do this every 20k - does it make a difference?

You need a lesson in math. At 60,000 you have a mix of oil that all needs to be changed. Draining 1/3 at a time just gives you a slightly more diluted contaminant load, and a slightly improved additive content. Even if you could stratify the content like you are doing, 1/3 has been in there 40,000 miles, so you certainly don't have all new oil.

 

[4xdad]

I get your thinking it’s based on the total loss oil system if your truck leaks oil you never have to change your oil because you are always adding clean oil in theory even if you drop the pan to change your transmission fluid you aren’t changing all the fluid because some remains in the torque converter (about 2quarts) the thing that doesn’t get changed is the filter that’s bad umkay so do it properly the transmission on some of these trucks is dubious at best my own included fricking junk but I own it now

 

[4xdad]

Dropping the transmission pan is messy and apita that’s why it’s one of the reasons I have a shop do it’s one of the few things that I farm out it’s worse now that I have built my own rock sliders and skid plates but oh well

 

[Mikeyram]

BG products = hocus pocus. Don't buy any of the BG bs. If it isn't a required service in your owner's manual, don't do it...Except for that tire. Go to a good tire shop and have that looked at.

Will it void the warranty on the truck if we don’t do this foolishness

 

[Zoe Saldana]

You need a lesson in math. At 60,000 you have a mix of oil that all needs to be changed. Draining 1/3 at a time just gives you a slightly more diluted contaminant load, and a slightly improved additive content. Even if you could stratify the content like you are doing, 1/3 has been in there 40,000 miles, so you certainly don't have all new oil.

You
"Even if you could stratify the content like you are doing, 1/3 has been in there 40,000 miles, so you certainly don't have all new oil."

Me:
"At 40K you have 2/3 fresh 1/3 old" (after doing the second change)

Why are you writing what I wrote????????????/


Are you drunk posting again?

 

[4xdad]

No you don’t you have 100 percent contaminated oil just one third as dirty and still going trough a dirty filter if you can’t do it pay someone it’s worth it

 

[Zoe Saldana]

No you don’t you have 100 percent contaminated oil just one third as dirty and still going trough a dirty filter if you can’t do it pay someone it’s worth it

Now you are trying not to lose face by interjecting the word 'contaminated'. I didn't use that word.

I used 'old'.

sad face

 

[Docwagon1776]

At 60k you have all fresh and no old.
------------------------------------

Now the smart people here will know that when you take out 2 qts in step 2 and 3 you are taking out some of the new. But if you do this every 20k - does it make a difference?

...what you end up with is fluid that's got the equivalent of 28,148 miles (assuming you do the partial drain and fill on the 20k mark on the nose every time for exactly 1/3 of the fluid), even if you simplify the equation down to no external factors like filtering. Which is better than having fluid with 60k miles on it, of course, but the notion you now have "60k fresh and no old" seems to ignore that the fluid you put in at the 20k and 40k mark are not held in separate reservoirs that keep them from aging.

20k drain and fill: Fluid now averages 13,333 miles equivalent
40k drain and fill: 22,222
60k drain and fill: 28,148

 

[4xdad]

Contaminated is the correct word there’s probably bits of friction plates usually transmission fluid is red it’s usually brown and slightly burnt smelling when it needs to be replaced a new transmission costs a lot you might want to change the filter and fluid before you have to replace your transmission

 

[Scottly]

Will it void the warranty on the truck if we don’t do this foolishness

Noooooooooooooooooooooooo

 

[4xdad]

Only if it’s not done as per warranty schedule

 

[4xdad]

Another reason to have the stealership to do it that way you get documentation of when it was done

 

[Zoe Saldana]

...what you end up with is fluid that's got the equivalent of 28,148 miles (assuming you do the partial drain and fill on the 20k mark on the nose every time for exactly 1/3 of the fluid), even if you simplify the equation down to no external factors like filtering. Which is better than having fluid with 60k miles on it, of course, but the notion you now have "60k fresh and no old" seems to ignore that the fluid you put in at the 20k and 40k mark are not held in separate reservoirs that keep them from aging.

20k drain and fill: Fluid now averages 13,333 miles equivalent
40k drain and fill: 22,222
60k drain and fill: 28,148

Yes, I said that.