How to Fluid Film your truck

[gypsy400]

So I applied corrosion free a few weeks ago to my truck. I also bought their high end spray gun which came with 2 spray nozzles, 2 different sized 45° wands and a 360° hose. The gun made applying so easy and I didn't have to drill any holes as I had wands that would fit the smallest holes.

I have to say their product is very impressive. I only used my pancake compressor and was able to apply it with no troubles. I was very liberal as it was a brand new truck and I had only a few drips from applying too much. The next week or two we had some warmer weather and I saw no evidence of dripping from the vehicle. Also as I sprayed the underside there was so little overspray in the air. I just wore a t shirt and jeans and I was not filthy after, I was pretty surprised!

I was underneath the truck the other day and it's still so thick, looks like someone dipped my truck in petroleum jelly haha. It does stink terrible as it burns off the exhaust also, I'll try to be more careful next year.

Corrosion Free is a food grade mineral oil based product. It's made in Canada and I bought it direct from them. They shipped it free and I had it within the week. While it's more expensive then FF I can still do it myself for much less than having it sprayed at a shop. Not trying to knock FF, I know it's a tried and true product just wanted to share my experience with corrosion free. I compared FF, krown, nh oil undercoating and corrosion free before making my purchase.

Corrosion free is a very good product as well.. And they are the choice of the Canadian Military.
FF and CF are still way above the protection Krown provides

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[U&A]

I agree that corrosion free is a better product but as often as I apply I’m just going to save money and use fluid film.

Regardless of the product im still going to apply twice a year. Heavy coat in the fall and light touch up in the spring. And I only do inside the doors tailgate and rockers and such just once a year in the fall.


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[KevinInVT]

I'll be curious to see how it looks in the spring. I plan to apply once a year around September hopefully. If CF doesn't hold up as well as I'm hoping FF is available locally at a cheaper price. Time will tell. Either way I can do both of our vehicles for way less than having a shop spray it.

 

[U&A]

I'll be curious to see how it looks in the spring. I plan to apply once a year around September hopefully. If CF doesn't hold up as well as I'm hoping FF is available locally at a cheaper price. Time will tell. Either way I can do both of our vehicles for way less than having a shop spray it.

I used to corrosion free the first year I did my truck and I can say that it does last a little longer.


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[chrisbh17]

I'll be curious to see how it looks in the spring. I plan to apply once a year around September hopefully. If CF doesn't hold up as well as I'm hoping FF is available locally at a cheaper price. Time will tell. Either way I can do both of our vehicles for way less than having a shop spray it.

After a year of being on my truck, with the truck parked outside 24/7 and driven basically through every appreciable amount of snow and rain here in CT, the coating held up just fine in most spots. It didnt LOOK like it was there, but if you brush your hand/fingers/arms across any part of the undercarriage, you are greeted with oily marks on your body. So I know something is still there. It is not glossy anymore because its basically held onto any dirt, etc that was kicked up from the road. I did occasionally lightly pressure wash the undercarriage anytime I washed the truck and if you dont get really close (at least with my low power electric pw) it does not blast off the coating.

Overall Im quite impressed. Ive used FF before but not as extensively so I cant say if FF lasts the same or less (anecdotes say it will last not as long), but it took me a gallon to do the RAM....CF gallon is 65 shipped. FF gallon is about 40-45. For the extra 20-25 Ill stick with CF (CF also has no smell unlike FF and is 100% OK on all rubber stuff, FF is debatable apparently)

I actually re-applied it this weekend, and for shiggles I got under the truck and really blasted away a couple spots with the pressure washer. That revealed "day 1" look on the undercarriage paint, which I then re-coated. I seriously think if you are diligent about applying even just once a year, if you ever go to sell the truck just blast the coating off and the truck will look brand new underneath.

 

[Aries Rising]

Subscribed.

 

[Hemi395]

Personally I like having to reapply FF more often simply because it gives me the opportunity to inspect the undercarriage and other areas for rust or places I missed...

 

[KevinInVT]

Personally I like having to reapply FF more often simply because it gives me the opportunity to inspect the undercarriage and other areas for rust or places I missed...

Good point, I do plan to give it a good look over after the weather warms back up.

 

[Hemi395]

And this is why you don't want to use rubberized undercoating or Ziebart[emoji15]

 

[KevinInVT]

Wow, that poor truck. Good info, never heard of ziebart

 

[chrisbh17]

My 2001 Frontier was never undercoated at all and while the frame had plenty of surface rust on it, it still wasnt as bad as that truck even after 16 years.

When the bed rusted out of my Frontier I became a proponent of Fluid Film since it was quick and easy to get and apply. Once I bought the RAM to replace the Frontier I did some more research and narrowed the choices down to NH Oil Undercoating out of New Hampshire, or Corrosion Free Rust Cure out of Canada. Went with CF because shipping was free, but I have a sneaking suspicion they might both be the same product.

The CF (and presumably NH) literally hide nothing....it goes on a bit milky but after a while "dries" (it never really dries) clear. Aside from the wavy texture of the oil being there, the truck looks like it did the day I picked it up. And thats basically the whole point.

 

[MK96]

This stuff doesn't have to be a complete disaster if you use the right primer and cover everything you don't want to paint. But FF is clearly less messy.

 

[smoothee]

I wonder what they used from the factory/dealer. This stuff is going on 8 years old and still looks like it did when I bought the truck new. And I see a **** ton of salt. It's a waxy like substance but doesn't seem to attract dirt (it is black though so maybe that has something to do with it). Dirty as hell though when working on the truck, but that's a fair trade off I guess...

 

[chrisbh17]

FYI - watch where you spray in the left front fender or else you might end up with fluid film in your horns. If you thought the RAMs horns were weak to begin with, wait until you hear them then!

DAMHIKT.

 

[Hemi395]

FYI - watch where you spray in the left front fender or else you might end up with fluid film in your horns. If you thought the RAMs horns were weak to begin with, wait until you hear them then!

DAMHIKT.

Oh man didn't even think about that, have to check mine. I just douched that whole area last weekend..........

 

[chrisbh17]

Oh man didn't even think about that, have to check mine. I just douched that whole area last weekend..........

If you have keyless just use the lock button twice and listen for the horn. It sounds so weak and muffled on mine

Debating removing the existing and trying to clean them, buying a used OEM replacement or going aftermarket (no I dont want train or air horns)

 

[U&A]

If you have keyless just use the lock button twice and listen for the horn. It sounds so weak and muffled on mine

Debating removing the existing and trying to clean them, buying a used OEM replacement or going aftermarket (no I dont want train or air horns)

But if you get a train horn then you can also set up an OBA system. Nothing like having a compressor and tank right on your truck.


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[chrisbh17]

But if you get a train horn then you can also set up an OBA system. Nothing like having a compressor and tank right on your truck.


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There goes my MaxCare warranty floating away

Looking at PIAA Superior Bass or just OEMs. Im not sure how easy (or even possible( it would be to clean up the existing horns. Have to pull the wheel well to get to them first, after I just put them back on from undercoating.....

 

[U&A]

Had a late start getting the winterization of my truck done this fall. I’ve had a lot going on with my truck the past month

Started pulling the wheel well liners off of the truck today to clean the mating surface between that and the fenders. It’s amazing how packed full of crap they get and I cannot believe all my other vehicles I have not done this before. Goes to show where all the rust comes from on fenders.

Got the two rear wheel fender liners removed, cleaned out andThen I applied fluid film AR on that mating surface so it’s sandwiched in between the wheel well liner and fender.

and actually just used my fingers to put it on this time. Messy as hell but much easier as it goes on in a similar consistency to cold bacon grease or lard.

Last year I did the same thing it was the first year are used it. I also applied it to the pinch weld on both sides all the way around the bottom of the truck..

Today when I wash the undercarriage The fluid film AR was still on all the pinch welds. I still ended up power washing it off best I could to remove the dirt that had stuck to it. After the fenders are done I’m going to go back around all the pinch weld with AR.

If you’ve never tried fluid film AR and are looking for something that will stay for a very long time in certain spots try it out. Just remember it has to be applied by hand. there’s absolutely no possible way for this to be sprayed on.

Ill post a few picks of it later


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[U&A]

Fluid Film AR. Says right on the container 3 to 5 year service. I could easily see 3 to 5 years of service out of this product even in the wheel wells with the high spray from the water. But The dirt it collects in that area I’d rather R&R every year.


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