Ignition, Battery, Key stuck

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RAM208

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So yesterday I left work and drove 20 minutes back to my hometown, stopped to get some dog food (5min inside) came back out and I had a low battery type of start but it started. I got home and was backing in and accidently shut it off in reverse. I've done this a couple times before due to the stupid knob shifter and the dash normally says shifter autocorrect. This time it didn't happen, however the truck said it was in Park but the dash said shift to park to start. I tried turning to off and the ignition was stuck wouldn't turn to off. I started it and went to drive back to park and shut if off. Key was still stuck in the ignition. I went to start it again and it was dead. My neighbor came over and jumped it, started right away was showing in Park so I hopped in and ran over to O'reillys to get a battery. They tested the battery and it showed good. Started it 4 times in the parking lot so I came home no issues with the key. This morning got in to start and it was dead but I wasn't hearing the starter click I heard an arcing noise similar to when you bump the jumper cables. Again jumped it drove it to work turned off and started again. Wondering if I'm having issues with the shifter knob assembly not turning all the way off and causing a parasitic drain? I did wake up to an alarm going off at midnight and sounded just like my truck by the time I got downstairs it had stopped, not even sure if it was mine. Battery is 4 years old wondering if I should just swap it and see if that fixes it or if there's a better idea.
 

Burla

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I would swap the battery yes, that is the easiest fix, but with it being a 2014 "?" it could be TIPM. The jump start would have been just a thing as opposed to actually helping, TIPM's usually fade slowly with symptoms such as crazy things happening to what you describe depending on what fuse or relay the TIPM is broken under. 4 years it is possible it is a battery or alt issue, I'd check the alt as well. But if mt math is correct it looked like your oem lasted only 4 years as well, so maybe you are having a battery issue, with yoiur location it could just be the cold killing the battery early. If the battery doesnt fix this issue, you can bypass ignition. Did weather just turn cold? A lot of short trips?
 
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RAM208

RAM208

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Ya I'm a little worried about the TIPM. Read about that awhile back when the AC compressor wasn't working. Ended finding the compressor fuse had wiggled loose. I went out to start it about an hour after getting to work and it was dead. Grabbed a new battery just now, installed and it started right up. Let it run for awhile and then took it for a drive. Gonna test it again in a couple hours. Weather in Idaho just hit 44 degrees for the first time, not that cold, Best guess is that the battery was dead, didn't have enough juice to engage the autocorrect on the shifter and I psyched myself out that I'm having a bigger issue that just a bad battery.
 

Rado

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A battery can test good but still have a bad cell ! Please UPDATE what you do find out ... Thanks
 

Burla

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That is why I asked the second question as far as short trips, cold saves battery life but capacity goes the other way. As in short trips could cause this? At 44f you can see your capacity is in a state of drop. Of course as the hemi needs 790 cold crank amps, you can see how this can be the issue.

ity-battery-life-compared-at-different-temperature.jpg
 

Rado

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That is why I asked the second question as far as short trips, cold saves battery life but capacity goes the other way. As in short trips could cause this? At 44f you can see your capacity is in a state of drop. Of course as the hemi needs 790 cold crank amps, you can see how this can be the issue.

View attachment 502803
That is why I run 100% Synthetic Oil and a Battery with the biggest CCA I can fit! As you show Temps can make a big difference
 

GTyankee

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I have always wondered why so many people will test their battery by starting it 3 or 4 times
All that does is drain the battery, it does not help a bit

Think of it this way,
for every time you start your vehicle, it takes something like 10 miles of driving to put the juice back into the battery.

4 times starting in a row, you need to drive a minimum of 40 miles without shutting it off

My neighbor will ask for me to use my Jump Pak to get her car started, then she will shut it off & restart it to TEST it.
If she knew how much it irritates me ..................
 
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RAM208

RAM208

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Well shoot, nowadays all the new cars have the start stop feature on em. I'm not that stupid to turn it off right after being jumped. I was just doing it at the auto part's store to replicate the issue and swap the battery where it would be convenient vs going back and forth.
 

huntergreen

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That is why I run 100% Synthetic Oil and a Battery with the biggest CCA I can fit! As you show Temps can make a big difference
What battery are you running ?
 

Rado

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What battery are you running ?
Right now still have the OEM Battery !
My car I went with Interstate ! And more then likely get a Interstate for the RAM !
I went Interstate because I get a discount from the place where I had my PT Job lol ..
But from all I read there are maybe 3 companies that make batteries that are rebranded !
On the RAM I will get the bigger CCA battery ,
On site here they say there is a spacer in the battery tray you remove to fit the bigger battery !

A interesting read !

 
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GTyankee

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When it comes to vehicle batteries:

Most people look for
1) Brand Name
2) Battery Size
3) Maintenance Free

Then they look for
CCA
If you do live in a colder climate you may want to consider purchasing a battery with Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).

Buyers hardly ever think about
CA or Cranking Amps refers to the amount of energy needed to start your vehicle at 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
Cold Cranking Amps refer to the power needed to start a battery at 0 degrees Fahrenheit. Consider a battery with CCA if you live in a frigid climate so you won’t get caught out in the cold!

Reserve Capacity is another thing to look for
This is the amount of time that a battery can run on its own without the power of the car. Having a high reserve capacity can help prevent your car from going dead if you forget to turn the lights off.
 

huntergreen

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Right now still have the OEM Battery !
My car I went with Interstate ! And more then likely get a Interstate for the RAM !
I went Interstate because I get a discount from the place where I had my PT Job lol ..
But from all I read there are maybe 3 companies that make batteries that are rebranded !
On the RAM I will get the bigger CCA battery ,
On site here they say there is a spacer in the battery tray you remove to fit the bigger battery !

A interesting read !

Good read, thanks for posting.
 
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Rado

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Hood read, thanks for posting.
I like more CCA, Did that when I had my F 150 w/a 302. Had the extra CCA and 100% synthetic and never had a starting issue even - 10*
 

Siff

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I have always wondered why so many people will test their battery by starting it 3 or 4 times
All that does is drain the battery, it does not help a bit

Think of it this way,
for every time you start your vehicle, it takes something like 10 miles of driving to put the juice back into the battery.

4 times starting in a row, you need to drive a minimum of 40 miles without shutting it off

My neighbor will ask for me to use my Jump Pak to get her car started, then she will shut it off & restart it to TEST it.
If she knew how much it irritates me ..................
Cold starts cause the battery to take a big hit, but once fully lubricated and heated to operating temp the energy needed to start is very minor; this is the only way start/stop can work with factory batteries.

I would guess that it only takes a fraction of a mile to recoup energy required for a running temp lubricated engine start.
 

Jeepwalker

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When it comes to vehicle batteries:

Most people look for
1) Brand Name
2) Battery Size
3) Maintenance Free

You forgot "Price" ..what most people look for (probably not as many forum members)

LOL

Yeah Reserve and CCA are imp, esp if you have higher electrical needs like towing/camping, etc.
 

FatsoMio

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I would swap the battery yes, that is the easiest fix, but with it being a 2014 "?" it could be TIPM. The jump start would have been just a thing as opposed to actually helping, TIPM's usually fade slowly with symptoms such as crazy things happening to what you describe depending on what fuse or relay the TIPM is broken under. 4 years it is possible it is a battery or alt issue, I'd check the alt as well. But if mt math is correct it looked like your oem lasted only 4 years as well, so maybe you are having a battery issue, with yoiur location it could just be the cold killing the battery early. If the battery doesnt fix this issue, you can bypass ignition. Did weather just turn cold? A lot of short trips?
Hi there,
had an issue with FOb not being able to take it of. Was stuck. However after 4 to 5 min it released itself. Did some checking. in yr owners manual at page 15 (1500 - 2012 manual) it says under Caution, when battery bad FOB will get stuck. I replaced my Delco (8yrs. 75,000m) with a brand new one. No problem. But don't disconnect it for a long time, otherwise you are going to have other problems. Just tell the shop you bring the old one in later and you get a fefund later on.

It solved my problem at that time . . .
 

FatsoMio

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Cold starts cause the battery to take a big hit, but once fully lubricated and heated to operating temp the energy needed to start is very minor; this is the only way start/stop can work with factory batteries.

I would guess that it only takes a fraction of a mile to recoup energy required for a running temp lubricated engine start.
make sure for the 1500 2012 it is/was a 80A battery, there is also a 85A, between 750 and 850 cold amps cranking . . . make sure zou use the same seize as another will not fit properly
 

turkeybird56

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Hi there,
had an issue with FOb not being able to take it of. Was stuck. However after 4 to 5 min it released itself. Did some checking. in yr owners manual at page 15 (1500 - 2012 manual) it says under Caution, when battery bad FOB will get stuck. I replaced my Delco (8yrs. 75,000m) with a brand new one. No problem. But don't disconnect it for a long time, otherwise you are going to have other problems. Just tell the shop you bring the old one in later and you get a fefund later on.

It solved my problem at that time . . .
WHY U use a battery/memory saver plugged in with power source before U undo battery, to save all settings. On the newer DT's, the security info supposed to be burned into ECM, but I always error on caution.
 
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RAM208

RAM208

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Late post, put a new battery in and never had the issue again. Talked to my buddy with the same year truck. He said he had some weird symptoms when his rig had battery going out too ‍♂️
 

Wild one

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Hi there,
had an issue with FOb not being able to take it of. Was stuck. However after 4 to 5 min it released itself. Did some checking. in yr owners manual at page 15 (1500 - 2012 manual) it says under Caution, when battery bad FOB will get stuck. I replaced my Delco (8yrs. 75,000m) with a brand new one. No problem. But don't disconnect it for a long time, otherwise you are going to have other problems. Just tell the shop you bring the old one in later and you get a fefund later on.

It solved my problem at that time . . .
My truck and the wifes Challenger sit all winter with the batteries disconnected,been doing it for years,and never had any issues with either.If my truck is going to sit for more then a couple days,i turn both of my master disconnect switches off,which happens fairly often in the summer. ! disconnect is in the rear bumper,the other is on the side of my battery box.
 

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