In cab heat question

[Beasley907]

Yep, that is precisely what I mean about being smart. 100 degree coolant will easily produce the heat you need in the cab. The smart part is it doesn't crank the fan until the coolant has the ability to deliver. At -40 parked outside it takes way more than a couple of minutes to get coolant to 100 degrees unless u have the block heater plugged in.

If you take it off auto you can set the fan wherever u like it and it will pump out whatever heat that is available. That is how u bypass the smart function.

I don’t have the auto feature. But I diagnosed my coolant as way to lean for these conditions

 

[Dean2]

Granted, I rarely have opportunity to experience the type of conditions you quote.

But are you saying that, on Auto, it won't start putting out heat until the coolant is up to at least the set temp? IOW, if it's -40 and your set temp is 70, it won't start putting out heat until the coolant is at least +70?

Like I said, it would be rare for me to have a similar situation, but for sure there have been plenty of times when I didn't remote start at the end of the day and went out well before coolant was at my set temp. Maybe I didn't notice because I also have heated seats and steering wheel, and because I don't have the extreme temps it was only a minute or two before coolant was above set temp. But that just seems like a "so smart that it's dumb" kind of programming thing that could be easily fixed. As long as coolant temp is above cabin temp, send it in! Basic, simple, should be implemented if it's not. @RamCares

That is exactly what I am saying. Next time you start your truck set your inside temp to 70 and watch the coolant temp carefully. On auto it will start increasing fan speed once the coolant hits about 80. There is no need for a fix, if you turn off auto you can set the fan speed wherever u want it and it will pump out whatever heat is available. You just need to be smarter than the truck.

 

[Painkiller]

It's interesting how -20 is the temp things get weird. I'm up in Fairbanks and am generally good between 31 to -19, but once -20 hits, things start to act up. When it gets down to -50 nothing wants to work... not that I blame it, at that temp I don't either.

 

[mtwofeathers]

Question on heat. First winter with the ram, it was -15 out and ran the truck for 20 minutes and there was like zero heat coming out, usually it’s gradual warm air then hot as it warms up (in most trucks) Truck got up to operating temp and still no heat. Then all of a sudden heat kicked on and boom hot air at about minute 24 of it running. Is this a coolant bypass valve thing or a air in cooling system thing?

*update* tech said this is common with electronic coolant bypass valves. During these -20 cold snaps. He said mopar coolant bypass valves are worse than others. He said if it was my daily driver it would happen a lot less or wouldn’t happen at all. But said sense it went from cold to full hot instantly it’s likely just the coolant bypass valve sticking because it’s been sitting for 2 weeks in the cold. Said it’s common.

2015 ram 1500 5.7

Shutters work on mine, I could probably run it an hour and never really get warm. Mine doesn't have a electric valve. I dont think it would help either.

 

[mtwofeathers]

It's interesting how -20 is the temp things get weird. I'm up in Fairbanks and am generally good between 31 to -19, but once -20 hits, things start to act up. When it gets down to -50 nothing wants to work... not that I blame it, at that temp I don't either.

-50 is a good time to have Evans in the radiator. And a working seat and steering wheel heater.

 

[Beasley907]

It's interesting how -20 is the temp things get weird. I'm up in Fairbanks and am generally good between 31 to -19, but once -20 hits, things start to act up. When it gets down to -50 nothing wants to work... not that I blame it, at that temp I don't either.

Man Fairbanks is the real stuff. So turns out after testing my coolant after my flush it was too lean. Drained the radiator and added concentrate. I mean I was way lean so swapped about a gallon and a half for concentrate so I think I’m good now for south central AK. I underestimated how much was still in my block, trans cooler lines, and heater core and hoses.

Luckily I was using my block heater so didn’t blow a head gasket or anything.

 

[taloninmi]

2013 1500 crew cab, maybe mega crew. 5.7 l. Last winter heat at best was lukewarm. This year, I replaced the actuator for the blend door. New water pump, thermostat, and coolant. Still heat is intermittently working. Anyone have ideas?

 

[Moose2]

Heater core? What is intermittently working?

 

[Beasley907]

Heater core? What is intermittently working?

No it was me being an idiot and running to lean of coolant.

 

[taloninmi]

I have not changed the heater core. When you switch from defrost to heat, it sometimes takes a few minutes to warm, other times it stays cold

 

[2012RAM1500RT]

Turn heat on like you normally would, push in on the fan speed button, hold for 10 seconds, let off and push in again until yellow light starts blinking, let off button and the system will go through the recalibration process. Hopefully that's what you need.