Is it too late to change tranny filter

[GoLuckydog]

I have a 2017 big horn with around 91k on it. Is it too late to change tranny filter and fluid? No problems atm just wanted a new filter\fluid put in.
*edit* I bought this truck used and I believe filter has never been changed.
Thnx

 

[Sherman Bird]

X-ray vision aside, a pan-drop and inspection is the only sure way to know.
As far as 91000 miles goes, that is the perfect (albeit later than I recommend) time to do this service. One can't have one's cake and eat it too.

 

[andymax]

On my last ZF 8speed I changed the fluid at 166K miles and sent the old fluid to Blackstone...the results were shockingly good, not perfect, but way better than expected. Wish I could find those results. I would not hesitate, nor would I overly rush, to get that fluid and filter changed.

 

[Wild one]

On my last ZF 8speed I changed the fluid at 166K miles and sent the old fluid to Blackstone...the results were shockingly good, not perfect, but way better than expected. Wish I could find those results. I would not hesitate, nor would I overly rush, to get that fluid and filter changed.

That's about the dumbest advice i've seen anybody give.You have no clue how his truck has been used,but you seem to think you're smarter then ZF who reconmends changing the fluid between 50,000 and 80,000 miles or every 8 years. It's advice like that,that keeps manufactures in business.
OP you're right in the ballpark for doing a fluid/filter change as you're at the 8 year limit,and at about the right milege

 

[andymax]

That's about the dumbest advice i've seen anybody give.You have no clue how his truck has been used,but you seem to think you're smarter then ZF who reconmends changing the fluid between 50,000 and 80,000 miles or every 8 years. It's advice like that,that keeps manufactures in business.
OP you're right in the ballpark for doing a fluid/filter change as you're at the 8 year limit,and at about the right milege

You have no clue either. It may well have been abused - OR - the fluid may well have been changed once or twice already, none of us knows. You're right though, the OP should err on the side of caution for sure. And no, I don't think I'm smarter than the ZF engineers, but I do admit to being curious how you made that ridiculous leap considering my comment was "I would not hesitate". If you take issue with the idea of not having to rush, well then just say you disagree.

@GoLuckydog, I apologize for the distraction. Wild One knows a LOT about these trucks, and is often a solid source of information so long as you look past the WAY-smarter-than-you condescending attitude that just oozes out of him, as you can see.

And I'll stand by my comment...unless you know or suspect that your truck has been abused, you do NOT have to rush to get the fluid changed. There are many many examples of these 8speed ZF's going well past the 100K mark with ZERO troubles. NO, I'm NOT suggesting that! I'm simply saying that if you get to it in the next month or two you will more than likely be just fine. BTW, many folks have good results with the pan and replaceable filter from PPE in place of the OEM pan/filter combo. Just food for thought.

 

[Wild one]

You have no clue either. It may well have been abused - OR - the fluid may well have been changed once or twice already, none of us knows. You're right though, the OP should err on the side of caution for sure. And no, I don't think I'm smarter than the ZF engineers, but I do admit to being curious how you made that ridiculous leap considering my comment was "I would not hesitate". If you take issue with the idea of not having to rush, well then just say you disagree.

@GoLuckydog, I apologize for the distraction. Wild One knows a LOT about these trucks, and is often a solid source of information so long as you look past the WAY-smarter-than-you condescending attitude that just oozes out of him, as you can see.

And I'll stand by my comment...unless you know or suspect that your truck has been abused, you do NOT have to rush to get the fluid changed. There are many many examples of these 8speed ZF's going well past the 100K mark with ZERO troubles. NO, I'm NOT suggesting that! I'm simply saying that if you get to it in the next month or two you will more than likely be just fine. BTW, many folks have good results with the pan and replaceable filter from PPE in place of the OEM pan/filter combo. Just food for thought.

Doesn't really matter how his truck has been used,he's still at the 8 year reconmendation,even if he was under 50,000 miles he'd be due just because of the 8 year period.
I agree he can do it with-in a month ,maybe 2,but nowhere did you state that in your original post,you left it open to interpretation ,and i think the majority of guys probably read it like me,which means it sounded like you told him he didn't have to do it.
If you'd said anything about a month or 2,i wouldn't have said a word,so that ones on you bud,next time specify what you mean when you're referring to a time line,as most of us don't have the ability to read your mind

 

[GTyankee]

My 2016 Ram Eco-diesel has just turned 66,000 miles
It was built in December 2015

It has never towed anything, most of the miles were Highway.

The services have always been well short on mileage

I have been wondering at what time to change/flush Coolant, Brake Fluid, Trans Fluid, etc.

This truck has had a very easy life

 

[CanuckRam1313]

My 2016 Ram Eco-diesel has just turned 66,000 miles
It was built in December 2015

It has never towed anything, most of the miles were Highway.

The services have always been well short on mileage

I have been wondering at what time to change/flush Coolant, Brake Fluid, Trans Fluid, etc.

This truck has had a very easy life

Coolant - good time to do it now based on years - as you know, OEM coolant only

Brake Fluid - excellent time to do it based on years - brake fluid loses its beneficial properties after years of service and seasonal temp fluctuations - recommend a top tier DOT4 or DOT5.1 like Motul, StopTech, or Hawk, and use a vacuum device, too so it thoroughly removes all the old fluid.

When I do a fluid flush & fill for the brakes I use, call it, at least 2Lt of fluid to ensure a full flush and fill.
Also check your brake hoses for cracks and swelling as well. These get dried out and brittle over the years.

Trans Fluid & Filter - good time to do it now based on years - maybe toss in Caulk's trans cooler bypass valve as well, if you don't already have one installed.

Transfer Case & Diffs - also a good time to do it based on years.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Coolant - good time to do it now based on years - as you know, OEM coolant only

Brake Fluid - excellent time to do it based on years - brake fluid loses its beneficial properties after years of service and seasonal temp fluctuations - recommend a top tier DOT4 or DOT5.1 like Motul, StopTech, or Hawk, and use a vacuum device, too so it thoroughly removes all the old fluid.

When I do a fluid flush & fill for the brakes I use, call it, at least 2Lt of fluid to ensure a full flush and fill.
Also check your brake hoses for cracks and swelling as well. These get dried out and brittle over the years.

Trans Fluid & Filter - good time to do it now based on years - maybe toss in Caulk's trans cooler bypass valve as well, if you don't already have one installed.

Transfer Case & Diffs - also a good time to do it based on years.

I do not see the admonition to use DISTILLED WATER only in cases where the coolant needs to be mixed.
Brand of Brake fluid is not important... all must meet stringent DOT requirements... so the higher boil point might be better, IF you tow or live in a metropolis where the tarmac temps reach oven-like temps in the summer.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

I do not see the admonition to use DISTILLED WATER only in cases where the coolant needs to be mixed.
Brand of Brake fluid is not important... all must meet stringent DOT requirements... so the higher boil point might be better, IF you tow or live in a metropolis where the tarmac temps reach oven-like temps in the summer.

I don't disagree with your input regarding using distilled water only for concentrated coolant.
My input, based on a total system flush & fill ideology was with the MOPAR premixed coolant in mind.
But yes, I should have indicated that clearly instead of leaving it interpretive.

While your decades of automotive expertise is unquestionable; also not disagreeing that standard DOT3 brake fluid can suffice, but from my experience going with a better quality brake fluid does have its advantages, even for the lay driver, and for the few dollars more per can, having a premium brake fluid only nets a better long-term result in my opinion.

 

[Barr2255]

Anytime I purchase a used vehicle I change all the fluids. I will say I’ve been lazy with brake fluid and just sucked out the reservoir and topped it off with fresh as opposed to adding all new. I’m not super critical when it comes to brand of brake fluid or anti freeze as long as it’s speced for the vehicle.

The only time I get critical with brake fluid is for my circle track cars, braking power and cool fluid is very critical.

Now transmission fluid I only use what the manufacture recommends, sure it’s more exspensive but I don’t know how to work on the newer transmissions or the desire to buy a new one, it’s cheaper and piece of mind to buy the manufacturer recommended fluid (lifeguard) for the ZF 8spd. With that said lots of guys run other fluid without issue, but I’m not into saving $50 to conduct an experiment on a very exspensive transmission.

As far as transmissions go, anything over 120k with an unknown history I wouldn’t touch the fluid unless I started experiencing issues. Unless you have the ability or know how to check the fluid with out spilling it all all assuming you have no dipstick. The clutch pack material in suspension in the fluid may be the only thing keeping it shifting properly lol.

 

[Sherman Bird]

I don't disagree with your input regarding using distilled water only for concentrated coolant.
My input, based on a total system flush & fill ideology was with the MOPAR premixed coolant in mind.
But yes, I should have indicated that clearly instead of leaving it interpretive.

While your decades of automotive expertise is unquestionable; also not disagreeing that standard DOT3 brake fluid can suffice, but from my experience going with a better quality brake fluid does have its advantages, even for the lay driver, and for the few dollars more per can, having a premium brake fluid only nets a better long-term result in my opinion.

Yeah, I go with the upgraded DOT 4 fluid, too. I learned the hard way to NEVER use silicon brake fluid.... it off-gasses and you lose pedal for brakes OR hydraulic clutch.

 

[Wild one]

My 2016 Ram Eco-diesel has just turned 66,000 miles
It was built in December 2015

It has never towed anything, most of the miles were Highway.

The services have always been well short on mileage

I have been wondering at what time to change/flush Coolant, Brake Fluid, Trans Fluid, etc.

This truck has had a very easy life

You're due for a transmission service as ZF specs 8 years as the fluids life expectancy

 

[Sherman Bird]

Now transmission fluid I only use what the manufacture recommends, sure it’s more exspensive but I don’t know how to work on the newer transmissions or the desire to buy a new one, it’s cheaper and piece of mind to buy the manufacturer recommended fluid (lifeguard) for the ZF 8spd.

Transmission fluid these days is pretty much totally synthetic stock base. Most fluid is about 7W15 weight. The new "LV" Low Viscosity is thinner, though, and I'm not sure of it's weight. The ONLY ATF that I'm aware of that is still mineral based is Type "F".
Beyond these factors, friction modifiers, anti-foam, and polymers that accede to manufacturer's specs for TCC slip, and so on, make up the differences. CVT fluid is it's own animal!

 

[GTyankee]

I have used the same shop for my Brakes & Alignment since back in the 1970s
If it has wheels on it, they work on it
Even the rear wheels on my H-D Trike

TRUE LINE WHEEL ALIGNMENT INC.​

.......................................................
This shop has been in business for 50 something years

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[bobdett]

I have a 2017 big horn with around 91k on it. Is it too late to change tranny filter and fluid? No problems atm just wanted a new filter\fluid put in.
*edit* I bought this truck used and I believe filter has never been changed.
Thnx

I am not qualified to comment about whether it's too late as I am not a mechanic and work too many hours to learn how to do most of this myself, but I can tell you that I recently had my transmission fluid and filters changed at 225k. Long overdue obviously. Started experiencing some "slippage" when decelerating but it was minor. Running much smoother since the service. Can't recall, but there was initially an issue with the replacement filter or a bad seal and the truck wouldn't move when taken off the lift, but that was resolved quickly.

 

[Sherman Bird]

I am not qualified to comment about whether it's too late as I am not a mechanic and work too many hours to learn how to do most of this myself, but I can tell you that I recently had my transmission fluid and filters changed at 225k. Long overdue obviously. Started experiencing some "slippage" when decelerating but it was minor. Running much smoother since the service. Can't recall, but there was initially an issue with the replacement filter or a bad seal and the truck wouldn't move when taken off the lift, but that was resolved quickly.

Yeah, workmanship is a variable which can greatly affect the outcome!

 

[bobdett]

Agreed. Have given a friend's brother an opportunity to do some work and I'm not sure that will continue. He was also going to change my heater core but didn't have the correct HVAC Evac machine fittings so he couldn't. But now I'm learning that it could just be pluggage. Lost heat at the end of last winter and need to get that fixed. He did a radiator flush a few months ago but when I picked up the truck after he attempted the heater core job and did the tranny work a few weeks back he showed me there was some gelled/gunked up residue inside the radiator cap. So not sure if he's experienced enough to do everything.

 

[Wild one]

Agreed. Have given a friend's brother an opportunity to do some work and I'm not sure that will continue. He was also going to change my heater core but didn't have the correct HVAC Evac machine fittings so he couldn't. But now I'm learning that it could just be pluggage. Lost heat at the end of last winter and need to get that fixed. He did a radiator flush a few months ago but when I picked up the truck after he attempted the heater core job and did the tranny work a few weeks back he showed me there was some gelled/gunked up residue inside the radiator cap. So not sure if he's experienced enough to do everything.

If you're messing with the cooling system/heater core,suck it up and buy the Mopar 10 year OAT coolant,as the majority of off brand coolants don't play nice with Ma Mopars coolant,alot of them will gell and plug the heater core,which almost sounds like your issue.Did you happen to add some off brand coolant to it awhile ago

 

[Daniel from Texas]

I have a 2017 big horn with around 91k on it. Is it too late to change tranny filter and fluid? No problems atm just wanted a new filter\fluid put in.
*edit* I bought this truck used and I believe filter has never been changed.
Thnx

If you think it wasn't done prior to purchase, definitely do it now. I do mine every 50K and have over 210K on my 2014 Ram.