Jeep Wrangler

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Wild one

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14 Sport
Engine
5.7

DILLIGAF

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2012
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5.7
Swapped out another 4L today out of the Nag1 and did the T-Case as well.

Should be good another 80K

Side note, should've gotten this type of air pumps years ago.

Now the fun part since all this nonses preventive maintenance is out of the way.

Need to build an air tank mount were the muffler used to be. :driver:

Getting ready for Air Lockers and air horns of course :devilfinger:. I can't have a vehicle without them.



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DILLIGAF

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Evap Canister relocation. I hit it a few times last year wheeling. And this was on my list of thing to fix. Not sure why the ******* Jeep at put it so low.

This MOD didn't cost me anything since I had everything on had. But if you don't shouldn't be more than 20$ worth of stuff.


- trim down the OEM canister mount.
- weld nut on back
- Drill 2 new mounting holes
- Paint
- make a small support bracket.
- epoxy braket to canister ( this it's totally not needed but might as well do it right if you have it apart)
-Cut and fit hoses back on.







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DILLIGAF

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still chasing that small evap leak! If this dosent work today, my next step will be disabling all that garbage with HP tuners... lol...



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Riccochet

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Somewhere around Charlotte
Ram Year
2020 2500 Laramie Longhorn
Engine
6.4
I had an evap leak. On top of the gas tank is the "rollover valve assembly". Coming off of that is 3 nipples. Those nipples crack and/or break off causing the evap leak. That valve assembly is molded in to the tank, so you can't replace it without replacing the entire tank.

When one of the nipples on mine cracked causing a leak I was able to fix it. I removed the line and broke the nipple off completely. Found some thin brass tubing with roughly the same size ID, drilled the nipple on both sides (carefully), and JB welded the nipple back on with the brass tube inside. Been like that for 5 years now, no more leak.

This is the valve I'm talking about. There's adequate access from under the Jeep to do the job without dropping the tank, depending on which nipple is broke.

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tjfdesmo

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On my old 2015 2500 w/6.4 I kept getting the small leak code. Ended up replacing the purge pump itself, and no more codes.
 

DILLIGAF

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Finnally found a 2nd ECU for 75$ , sent it off to get unlocked.

Almost ready to delete the evap system. HP tuners for the win again. :cool:

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DILLIGAF

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Winching killed another one, So Just like my truck it was time for a real battery ;)

I'm sad they are no longer red. Now I look like a poor with a regular battery when I open the hood. :dogpile:

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Wild one

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Am i the only guy who's not impressed by an odyssey battery.I had 1 in the trunk of the 1320,and it didn't make it 2 years before it was garbage.
 

tjfdesmo

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I was told directly by an Odyssey rep at a dealer expo that they need a higher charge voltage(higher than ordinary AGM)than a vehicle provides and need a regular maintenance charge with one of their chargers. This used to be spelled out somewhere on their web site, but I don't know if it still is.
 

grizzstang

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Calgary, Alberta Canada
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2017
Engine
Hemi 5.7
I have had an Odyssey 49-950 H8 in my Ram for at least 5 years now, maybe longer, I will have to check.

I had one in my F150 before that was 8 years old when I sold it and still working fine.

No issues so far in my Ram but I do plug it into the Battery Tender once and a while to top off the charge.

The red battery was their thing, I am not sure why they would change that.
 
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