Just changed engine oil - at 510 miles.

[Jesse Lackman]

I dyno test engines and we often change oil and cut open filter to check for metal after break in. I wanted to see what things looked like at 500 miles on a brand new vehicle. The new oil was Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40. I also installed an Amsoil dual remote filter. I didn't use Amsoil's filter adapter, I used the one from Improved Racing. I had magnets on the full flow filter but there was very little magnetic particles caught by the magnets.

 

[Jesse Lackman]

This is the oil from the spin on filter housing after I cut it open. I was kind of surprised by the amount of particles suspended in the oil.

 

[Jesse Lackman]

When I cut filters open I roll them on a couple layers of blue shop towels. This is what they looked like.

 

[Jesse Lackman]

Here's the dual remote installation. I hope the sway bar disconnect won't hit the filters, we went hill climbing and there are no marks. It's not as close as it looks in the picture. The big diameter filter is a fine micron partial flow filter, the smaller one is the full flow. It's about twice as long as a normal filter.

 

[Jesse Lackman]

The factory installed filter came off easy. It's tiny. With the new setup it took nine quarts to fill to the full mark.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

I dyno test engines and we often change oil and cut open filter to check for metal after break in. I wanted to see what things looked like at 500 miles on a brand new vehicle. The new oil was Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40. I also installed an Amsoil dual remote filter. I didn't use Amsoil's filter adapter, I used the one from Improved Racing. I had magnets on the full flow filter but there was very little magnetic particles caught by the magnets.

Magnets would be a better benefit on the oil pan close to the drain hole.

As the oil sits the magnets would attract the metal.

Remove the magnets before you drain so that the oil take out what is captured.

 

[Travelin Ram]

I always change my break in oils early too.

I appreciate the photos of the dual filtration, but it’s not a mod I would personally do. Had a bad experience once with aftermarket remote filtration that failed and dumped all my oil on the ground. Since then I keep it simple and stock and just change my oil often.

 

[retired]

Magnets would be a better benefit on the oil pan close to the drain hole.

As the oil sits the magnets would attract the metal.

Remove the magnets before you drain so that the oil take out what is captured.

a magnetic drain plug works well but not sure how much material is ferromagnetic in these new engines.

 

[CFII]

****, this makes me want to change my oil. Truck has like 1400 miles on it.

 

[Overlander]

I'm going to take a counter-point on this one: changing the oil early won't necessarily help. We have two concerns when it comes to particles: 1) why are they being made and 2) are they causing wear on low-clearance interfaces. As for 1) it's a new engine. The high bits are wearing off and there's no doubt some mill dust in there is being rinsed out. Would definitely be a concern at 20k, but not at 500 mi. 2) The filter is almost certainly doing it's job of preventing whatever particles have made it into the sump from re-entering the pressurized flow where they could do damage. Though you could definitely make the argument that splash-lubricated components are at risk of particulate damage as this lubrication path is from unfiltered sump oil and the 5.7/6.4 Hemi's do have a track record of lifter problems. But I also suspect that much of those suspended particles will get sucked up and trapped in the filter over the first OCI.

As far as the aftermarket filter housings... surface area buys you flow and service life. As long as the OEM filter meets the particle size requirements that FCA recommends (it does) and it isn't choking out flow over the recommended OCI (its not) then there's really no benefit to the engine. Additionally, the install has added mechanical complexity (failure points) as well as potentially delayed the cold start oil pressurization. For a street application I'm definitely in the KISS camp. Not to mention potential warranty denials from altering the system (regardless of whether it was an 'improvement' over stock).

Not trying to cast disparity on the mod, I just don't think it provides any real-world longevity to the 6.4. If we were seeing engine failures do to a filtering issue then absolutely start searching for a mod. But I don't believe that's the case with this fleet.

 

[Daw14]

If this gives the op more confidence in his truck more power to him.

 

[retired]

I would worry about warranty if there was an engine failure. Seems like it would be an easy warranty void on any engine related parts valid or not.

 

[Jesse Lackman]

The hoses are high quality USA made with steel AN-10 ends. The adapter is billet USA made by Improved Racing. 1/2" ID is maintained throughout. Zero lag in start up pressure, and there was no change in running oil pressure.

I've used AN hoses for 15 years dyno testing, and have an Amsoil remote filter on my dyno. The filter adapters are cast aluminum for the various engines that get tested. There's never been a failure. If my setup actually causes an engine failure I'll rebuilt the engine myself. If not they are going to have a tough time proving it's the fault of a mechanic who's worked on and dyno tested race engines for 15 years.

 

[Jesse Lackman]

I had this Power Wagon to 100 mph in four wheel drive, and to 5500 rpm many times. I've learned from dyno testing that engines shed the vast majority of break in metal in the first few hours of run time. Best break in is to lay on them like a dyno test. Anyway many particles smaller than 20 microns don't get trapped by normal full flow filters (Amsoil), plus if there's enough large enough to get caught the filter can bypass. Either way debris is being circulated. That's why I use filter mags when we dyno test. Some of what gets caught by the magnets is small enough to go through a filter. That's the point of an early oil change, get the break in debris out of the engine/transmission/gearbox. It's also the point of the bypass filter, it filters to a much finer level, 2 microns, than the full flow.

I know this won't double the miles the engine lasts, but like someone said it could prevent lifter failure. I've read the Mopar roller lifters make noise when they are dirty.

This is the first vehicle I've owned with a factory warranty.

 

[CFII]

This is a fascinating thread.

 

[Jesse Lackman]

This is a fascinating thread.

This subject can be be like discussing religion or politics, haha. It's mainly food for thought, and I reserve the right to be wrong!!

 

[Al Handy]

I changed my oil around 500 miles and got the similar results and again at 1500 miles, less sparkles in the oil and then again at 2500 miles and sent the oil out for analysis, and it came back as healthy. Seems to be a lot of break in debris. I switched to the a larger NAPA Platinum filter with synthetic, (I don't have the number off hand) media, as indicated previously, the filter is small and it is the same filter I have on my 2011 Compass 2.4 L

 

[Jesse Lackman]

I work with a guy who got a new Ford a few years ago. Changing oil at 500 miles was the recommendation. Thought that was interesting.

 

[Jesse Lackman]

the filter is small and it is the same filter I have on my 2011 Compass 2.4 L

You should add an LOL to that. The 6.4 has a lot more metal than a 2.4.

One advantage of a report filter setup is less mess. I know there is a fancy funnel thinger for the filter, but it was still slop city, I had oil on the side of my head and glasses from changing the filter.

 

[Overlander]

I work with a guy who got a new Ford a few years ago. Changing oil at 500 miles was the recommendation. Thought that was interesting.

Recommended by? Ford Motor Company?