Lower steering shaft???

[HemiBrother]

So took my truck in to get alignment done after replacing pretty much everything on front suspension and was told they can’t do the alignment do to worn out lower steering shaft. 253.00$ for the part at local auto part stores Rock auto same dorman part 175$ eBay china made I’m assuming 50$ huge difference between the three of em. What would anyone suggest here? The part seems simple and not 250$ worth for shaft and u joint.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Rockauto

 

[Dean2]

Check out Borgeson. Excellent quality. Used their parts on my 1996 2500. BIG improvement over OEM or cheap China crap.

Borgeson Universal | Aftermarket Steering Components & Kits

Premier Aftermarket Steering Components and SolutionsBorgeson Universal Co. Inc. is the leading manufacturer and supplier of aftermarket steering components for street rods, racing, specialty automotive, OEM, and pickup trucks. Our comprehensive product range includes power steering boxes...

www.borgeson.com

 

[DILLIGAF]

I made my own ....lol...

 

[chaosh1]

Check out Borgeson. Excellent quality. Used their parts on my 1996 2500. BIG improvement over OEM or cheap China crap.

Borgeson Universal | Aftermarket Steering Components & Kits

Premier Aftermarket Steering Components and SolutionsBorgeson Universal Co. Inc. is the leading manufacturer and supplier of aftermarket steering components for street rods, racing, specialty automotive, OEM, and pickup trucks. Our comprehensive product range includes power steering boxes...

www.borgeson.com

Absolutely Borgeson. and the install is Very easy just not alot of room to work is all.

 

[Jeepwalker]

The parts store ones are probably the same as the China ones off ebay ...just marked up 25%. A lot of Ram (Mopar) parts (and Delco..and Ford) are/were made in China. That or Mexico. Sometimes Canada. Probably China or Mexico is where the original one was made. ??

I bought a china one for a vehicle recently (SUV). It looks exactly like the factory one I took out. Ebay. No OEM avail in my application. Import one works fine. Not a lot of 'advanced technology' in an intermediate shaft. How many miles on your tk's original shaft?

Maybe someone else has bought the import one and can provide feedback.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I will say this about some of the 'cheap' steering shafts I've bought in the past: The alignment of the ends aren't always welded on 'straight' like they should be. If you can imagine a shaft or a couple shafts... if the ends are not welded on 'straight' then the shop need to compensate during the alignment by moving the steering tie rods one way or the other to make the steering wheel 'true' and the rack 'true'. There are sensor which require it. Plus ..the 'tightest' spot for the steering is 'on-center' so the further off-center the alignment is (the rack sticks out further one way or the other to compensate), the greater the chances of steering play may occur as you are driving straight down the road. I may not be explaining it very well but hopefully you get what I'm saying.

So.. buying one from ebay is a bit risky. You might get one welded 'true' maybe it'll be a little off. Maybe it'll be off more than a little! If it's just a little that's ok, that can be compensated for. If it's more than a little, that's not what you want. One from Mopar I would expect to be 'on the money' true. If a Mopar steering shaft is not too pricey, that would be your safest bet. IDK about Borgeson.... personally. I would "hope" they are welded True...for their price.

 

[chaosh1]

buy once, cry once. Dont buy cheap sheet

 

[Jeepwalker]

Biggest issue on the steering shafts is water or moisture gets on or into the u-joints an rust creeps in past the seals ...rusts up the little u-joint bearings. Can happen with any u-joint. Esp those small steering U-joints. Then they rust internally, U-joint fails.

Maintenance tip: Every year or so, give a squirt of gear lube on the U-joint to keep them from rusting. Esp guys who off-road. Last longer!

 

[Dean2]

I will say this about some of the 'cheap' steering shafts I've bought in the past: The alignment of the ends aren't always welded on 'straight' like they should be. If you can imagine a shaft or a couple shafts... if the ends are not welded on 'straight' then the shop need to compensate during the alignment by moving the steering tie rods one way or the other to make the steering wheel 'true' and the rack 'true'. There are sensor which require it. Plus ..the 'tightest' spot for the steering is 'on-center' so the further off-center the alignment is (the rack sticks out further one way or the other to compensate), the greater the chances of steering play may occur as you are driving straight down the road. I may not be explaining it very well but hopefully you get what I'm saying.

So.. buying one from ebay is a bit risky. You might get one welded 'true' maybe it'll be a little off. Maybe it'll be off more than a little! If it's just a little that's ok, that can be compensated for. If it's more than a little, that's not what you want. One from Mopar I would expect to be 'on the money' true. If a Mopar steering shaft is not too pricey, that would be your safest bet. IDK about Borgeson.... personally. I would "hope" they are welded True...for their price.

The other issue with the cheap ones is they either have too much play in the universal joints or the universal joints aren't built right and they bind at a certain spot. That was what I liked about the Borgeson, along with a quarter turn on the steering box nut it completely got rid of the play in my steering on the 96. That play was still there when I put a brand new Mopar one on as the Mopar one is designed with a rubber coupling.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Sometimes the splines on the imports isn't as 'tight' either. Even the *smallest* amt of 'play' at the steering shaft translates into a meaningful amt of play at the steering wheel.

Guess we're not painting a very good picture for buying an import shaft...

That said, I don't like how Borgeson does the screw-securing U-joint. I know some guys run them, but not nearly enough safety factor for me on something as critical as steering. There's really no reason or excuse for not producing a proper-fitting oem-like end for some of their shafts. I've never seen an OEM clamp-type steering shaft come loose. They DO have some clamp-style ends

...Not sure what the ram shaft specifically uses (hopefully a clamp-style oem-like end).

 

[Jeepwalker]

I used to have the Ram service manuals bookmarked... otherwise I'd send you the link. Maybe someone else does.

A scan of the system would be handy too...if you had a scanner which could read the air suspension system codes. You could call the parts stores and see if their code scanner can do it. Most only scan for engine and brake codes. But Napa, maybe..or another can do air-ride codes ??

A lot of times it's the bleed solenoids which can leak down. On some cars the actual solenoids or an o-ring aren't that much. But it could also be a failing shock. The air bladders fold and 'roll' continuously as the vehicle is driven. The rubber eventually ...given enough time, wears, gets brittle or cracks. I the salty N, rust or corrosion of surrounding metal can cause uneven surfaces which can eventually pierce the rubber. You're probably in a zone where the shocks will last quite a while.

If you figure out the issue, check back and let other Ram owners know what you found....positive or negative. The nuclear option is to convert to regular shocks, which isn't the worst in the world. But see if you can find something with what you have.

 

[HemiBrother]

Ended up going with a Dorman one 175$ will see how it goes.

 

[Dean2]

It is interesting that people say these are a low tech piece and they are, but the precision with which they are made, the design and thw quality of the components has a major impact on the steering in one of our pickups. There are a lot of ways to screw up the build on one of these.

 

[chaosh1]

This thread is starting to look like the jeep forums... this place is never this active.

Good job OP! Great topic

 

[emjohn4]

I'm in the dorman sucks camp. The $50 more for the OEM is money well spent.

 

[chaosh1]

I'm in the dorman sucks camp. The $50 more for the OEM is money well spent.

I half agree with you, but wouldn't buy oem unless there was alot more cost involved. And yes dorman sucks

Even then buy once cry once

 

[DILLIGAF]

If the OEM was so great it wouldn't fail

 

[Jeepwalker]

Check the alignment of the welded ends (new shaft) to make sure they line up 'square' ...send it back (for a replacement) if they're out of alignment.