Magnetic drain plug capture

[WY.Ram]

If you're familiar with the capture on a magnetic drain plug with an 5500mi oci please let me know what you think about the included photo. It is the dark spot in the middle next to drain plug. I suppose it's about a 1" diameter circle, its the gray coating type stuff that is found on the inside of other lube reservoirs, tranny, diff, but very light compared to those, yet its still there and I'd like to hear thoughts. I've never run a magnetic plug so I don't know if this is normal, heavy or better change the cam and lifters. (Kidding I hope)

I really wanted absolutely clean but the film was there.

An oil sample will be sent to Blackstone tomorrow, so I dont have those results yet.

86k on the clock, runs outstanding.

Thanks


'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

 

[Hydraplane]

Having seen mag plugs on a lot of different machines, It looks like the tiniest of metal particles , just mud, not a beard or chunks. Not an expert, but I would reckon normal wear from piston rings on cylinder walls. I am curious about what the oil sample reveals. Also curious about your choice of oil and filter. Is that plug stock? if not, where did you get it?

 

[WY.Ram]

Thanks for the input. I will post the uoa results here as soon as I get them back. The plug is not stock I believe I ordered that one from Amazon. I will dbl chk and get any available info. I run 5w40 Redline with a Royal Purple 20-820 filter. This was the second oil change on that filter, the previous oci was also right there around 5500mi. I have both oil samples going to Blackstone this round so I will have two uoa reports soon and will post them both here.


'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

 

[Wild one]

Thanks for the input. I will post the uoa results here as soon as I get them back. The plug is not stock I believe I ordered that one from Amazon. I will dbl chk and get any available info. I run 5w40 Redline with a Royal Purple 20-820 filter. This was the second oil change on that filter, the previous oci was also right there around 5500mi. I have both oil samples going to Blackstone this round so I will have two uoa reports soon and will post them both here.


'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

Curiousity makes me ask why you'd use the same oil filter over again and change just the oil. I'm not really seeing the point to putting clean oil into a filter filled with dirty oil

 

[Travelin Ram]

I have several different engines with magnetic plugs and there’s always a dark smudge when I wipe the magnet clean. I’d only worry if it felt gritty or it was glittery. Magnets will capture very fine ferrous particles that will pass right through a filter.

 

[WY.Ram]

Curiousity makes me ask why you'd use the same oil filter over again and change just the oil. I'm not really seeing the point to putting clean oil into a filter filled with dirty oil

That is an excellent question for which I embarrassingly don't have a knowledgeable answer. I have never followed such a protocol and with what is at risk I should be much better informed.

The only true influence for me is a recommendation from another RAM owner /forum member, I have never met him aside the forum, but for some reason I trust him, unquestionably. Kind of odd I'll admit. I listed the oil filter in my above post, maybe subconsciously and feeling a little uneasy, to learn more about what some guys like yourself practice and think about changing the oil filter on an annual basis, also to confirm that I am properly doing what he suggested. His knowledge is far above mine on the subject, I guess I just rolled with it.

His knowledge and effort at helping others is very notable, (as is yours I might add)!

You know him I'm sure, and I think I would like him to stop by here so I can reaffirm that I understood him exactly. I probably should have just opened a dialogue with Mike but hey I think I just discovered the new 'passive aggressive" only without the aggressive, closer to a "passive indirect" technique. :-|

So, I'll give him the shout out and let's pose our question to @Burla. I think he'll stop by fairly quickly. If not I'll go ask him to come to the conversation.

To answer your question more directly:
1) Burla's recommendation
2) environmental impact (maybe ever so slight)
3) less cost (again, ever so slight)
4) I envisioned the location and orientation of the filter and told myself a majority of the oil in the filter drained with the crankcase drain.

The only strength in my answer is 1) and it's not mine but I do have faith in him.

But I suddenly want a clean, perfect, spun glass filter on my engine oil system, but lets see what Mike has to say.

Thanks Wild!




'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

 

[WY.Ram]

I have several different engines with magnetic plugs and there’s always a dark smudge when I wipe the magnet clean. I’d only worry if it felt gritty or it was glittery. Magnets will capture very fine ferrous particles that will pass right through a filter.

That's good to hear. There was only trace, minimal trace, of 'glitter' particles. I could have counted them, less then 10 very small specs that I had to really work the light angle to see them and struggled to see them for more than a brief instant and I could not feel one or any number of them when I went for a finger rub and I don't believe my camera.

If a trace amount of glitter is a red flag, then I may need to go deeper.

Thanks for input!

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

 

[tidefan1967]

I agree that RP oil filters are the King of Beers when it comes to oil filters but personally I've only used them a couple times myself because they are so expensive. I've since stocked up on WIX XP's and NAPA Platinums all bought on sale. I bought the Napa Platinums last year on sale for $5 each. They may not be quite as good as the RP filters but I bet their damn close if your a cheapskate like me.

 

[Burla]

That is an excellent question for which I embarrassingly don't have a knowledgeable answer. I have never followed such a protocol and with what is at risk I should be much better informed.

The only true influence for me is a recommendation from another RAM owner /forum member, I have never met him aside the forum, but for some reason I trust him, unquestionably. Kind of odd I'll admit. I listed the oil filter in my above post, maybe subconsciously and feeling a little uneasy, to learn more about what some guys like yourself practice and think about changing the oil filter on an annual basis, also to confirm that I am properly doing what he suggested. His knowledge is far above mine on the subject, I guess I just rolled with it.

His knowledge and effort at helping others is very notable, (as is yours I might add)!

You know him I'm sure, and I think I would like him to stop by here so I can reaffirm that I understood him exactly. I probably should have just opened a dialogue with Mike but hey I think I just discovered the new 'passive aggressive" only without the aggressive, closer to a "passive indirect" technique. :-|

So, I'll give him the shout out and let's pose our question to @Burla. I think he'll stop by fairly quickly. If not I'll go ask him to come to the conversation.

To answer your question more directly:
1) Burla's recommendation
2) environmental impact (maybe ever so slight)
3) less cost (again, ever so slight)
4) I envisioned the location and orientation of the filter and told myself a majority of the oil in the filter drained with the crankcase drain.

The only strength in my answer is 1) and it's not mine but I do have faith in him.

But I suddenly want a clean, perfect, spun glass filter on my engine oil system, but lets see what Mike has to say.

Thanks Wild!




'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

The problem with not changing the oil filter when you change the oil is the quart sitting in the filter. The spun microglass can outlast oil, but that doesn't mean I'd mix dirty oil with clean. Now,, if you are doing a 5k mile interval, then I'd say ok because that oil is not really used up anyhow, but it isn't something I'd do. What I do with the microglass if have it on a 2 year intervals because that is the interval of my oil, and there is zero reason to change either earlier because of the few miles I put up. Every guys strategy is their strategy, it isn't the worst idea in the world to run a filter for 2 oci's in some cases, like you have a top oil and it only has 5k miles on it. I'd just say with hemi's I'd error on the side of caution and keep the oil as clean as possible, but the oil filter will have plenty of life in it when you change it. The opposite is buy a paper filter and have it no longer filtering and really messing things up.

That plug looks 100% normal to me, looking forward to uoa.

 

[Burla]

I agree that RP oil filters are the King of Beers when it comes to oil filters but personally I've only used them a couple times myself because they are so expensive. I've since stocked up on WIX XP's and NAPA Platinums all bought on sale. I bought the Napa Platinums last year on sale for $5 each. They may not be quite as good as the RP filters but I bet their damn close if your a cheapskate like me.

good deal, lol

 

[Wild one]

That is an excellent question for which I embarrassingly don't have a knowledgeable answer. I have never followed such a protocol and with what is at risk I should be much better informed.

The only true influence for me is a recommendation from another RAM owner /forum member, I have never met him aside the forum, but for some reason I trust him, unquestionably. Kind of odd I'll admit. I listed the oil filter in my above post, maybe subconsciously and feeling a little uneasy, to learn more about what some guys like yourself practice and think about changing the oil filter on an annual basis, also to confirm that I am properly doing what he suggested. His knowledge is far above mine on the subject, I guess I just rolled with it.

His knowledge and effort at helping others is very notable, (as is yours I might add)!

You know him I'm sure, and I think I would like him to stop by here so I can reaffirm that I understood him exactly. I probably should have just opened a dialogue with Mike but hey I think I just discovered the new 'passive aggressive" only without the aggressive, closer to a "passive indirect" technique. :-|

So, I'll give him the shout out and let's pose our question to @Burla. I think he'll stop by fairly quickly. If not I'll go ask him to come to the conversation.

To answer your question more directly:
1) Burla's recommendation
2) environmental impact (maybe ever so slight)
3) less cost (again, ever so slight)
4) I envisioned the location and orientation of the filter and told myself a majority of the oil in the filter drained with the crankcase drain.

The only strength in my answer is 1) and it's not mine but I do have faith in him.

But I suddenly want a clean, perfect, spun glass filter on my engine oil system, but lets see what Mike has to say.

Thanks Wild!


I put a lot of faith in Mikes oil expertise myself,lol.

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

 

[WY.Ram]

good deal, lol

Hey Burla, appreciate you taking the time to clarify my brain for me! Both oci's where just after 5000 miles and none of the miles would be considered heavy duty or severe duty by any means, no towing, no idle, no shorty trips, no extended long highway runs, bla bla. The oil seems in top condition when I change it, so with that info, and the fact I just dropped near 2 gal of redline 5w40 in my engine, and contaminated it with 1/2 a quart of eeh 'used' oil, should I change it again asap, wait for the uoa and then decide how long to run it, or ant other suggestion.
I'm kinda feeling like I wanna change both right now and use the contaminated in a mower or chainsaw, or cutting oil or similar. Yeah it kinda sucks but I don't wanna stress about it, already am, dang it.

Also thanks for input on magnet. I have taken immaculate care of my 6.4, and if she had cancer I would have been disappointed. Of course how immaculate can contaminated oil really be considered, lol.

Thanks again,

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

 

[WY.Ram]

Thanks again for response and input!

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

 

[Wild one]

Hey Burla, appreciate you taking the time to clarify my brain for me! Both oci's where just after 5000 miles and none of the miles would be considered heavy duty or severe duty by any means, no towing, no idle, no shorty trips, no extended long highway runs, bla bla. The oil seems in top condition when I change it, so with that info, and the fact I just dropped near 2 gal of redline 5w40 in my engine, and contaminated it with 1/2 a quart of eeh 'used' oil, should I change it again asap, wait for the uoa and then decide how long to run it, or ant other suggestion.
I'm kinda feeling like I wanna change both right now and use the contaminated in a mower or chainsaw, or cutting oil or similar. Yeah it kinda sucks but I don't wanna stress about it, already am, dang it.

Also thanks for input on magnet. I have taken immaculate care of my 6.4, and if she had cancer I would have been disappointed. Of course how immaculate can contaminated oil really be considered, lol.

Thanks again,

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

I'll defer to Burla's knowledge,but at the price of Redline,i'd fill up a new filter with new oil, spin it on,and call it good for now.

 

[Burla]

Hey Burla, appreciate you taking the time to clarify my brain for me! Both oci's where just after 5000 miles and none of the miles would be considered heavy duty or severe duty by any means, no towing, no idle, no shorty trips, no extended long highway runs, bla bla. The oil seems in top condition when I change it, so with that info, and the fact I just dropped near 2 gal of redline 5w40 in my engine, and contaminated it with 1/2 a quart of eeh 'used' oil, should I change it again asap, wait for the uoa and then decide how long to run it, or ant other suggestion.
I'm kinda feeling like I wanna change both right now and use the contaminated in a mower or chainsaw, or cutting oil or similar. Yeah it kinda sucks but I don't wanna stress about it, already am, dang it.

Also thanks for input on magnet. I have taken immaculate care of my 6.4, and if she had cancer I would have been disappointed. Of course how immaculate can contaminated oil really be considered, lol.

Thanks again,

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

I don't hate your strategy with the data you given, I see the desire to shave a little off the steep costs of a redline oil change. Lets see the uoa, I might be able to save you more money, how about that? Let's think about a 10k interval, right? Funny because your strategy will keep oil cleaner then just running oil 10k miles and changing it, but yet some guys would scoff at leaving the filter one for one change, lol. That's why I'm not in hate with what you are doing, but I would like you see use that oil up good, it can take it and your filter can surely take it. You are welcome for the input...

You are doing the uoa yes? Post that up in blackstone thread when you get it, make sure you take off personal info, blackstone has a program for that.

 

[Burla]

You may be a perfect candidate for bgmoa, if you worry about a 10k interval, at 7500 miles you can dump bgmoa as a tbn booster to give you cheap insurance. It is something I would do in this limited situation. Basically cuts your costs of redline oil change in half and you give up nothing.

BTW, definitely cut open your filter, I use an oscillating tool to cut open mine. RP filters are so tough they are hard to crack, but it will be worth it to check the condition of the pleats. You need to cut like 1/2 below lip.

 

[Mr Rich]

I think it makes more sense to change the filter in the middle of the oci rather than changing the oil in the middle of the oil filter change interval.

 

[WY.Ram]

I don't hate your strategy with the data you given, I see the desire to shave a little off the steep costs of a redline oil change. Lets see the uoa, I might be able to save you more money, how about that? Let's think about a 10k interval, right? Funny because your strategy will keep oil cleaner then just running oil 10k miles and changing it, but yet some guys would scoff at leaving the filter one for one change, lol. That's why I'm not in hate with what you are doing, but I would like you see use that oil up good, it can take it and your filter can surely take it. You are welcome for the input...

You are doing the uoa yes? Post that up in blackstone thread when you get it, make sure you take off personal info, blackstone has a program for that.

Sorry it's been a couple weeks. My Blackstone report is back and it is the best news I've had in awhile.

A little supporting information. I ran my 6.4L on Mobile1 0w40 with Wix filters for the first 57k mi. Mostly because I didn't know any better. It might work for some but I dont think it was working for me.

At 57k mi I switched to Redline 0w40 and Royal Purple filter, went 7500mi, changed oil and sent in the sample. The news was somewhat disappointing, many metals were high, and I had found metal slivers ( lack of a better description) in my drain pain. They looked like the polished surface of machined metal, aka cam or crank surface type of thing, Wherever they came from the uoa collaborated the find with high metal counts across the board in the oil.

Engine was also much noiser then I cared to hear.

Blackstone told me to only run 5000mi oci even though the tbn count was still really high, 3.4.

I skipped sending in a sample for one or two changes, I pulled samples but never sent them off for whatever reason. Then I sent the last two oil change samples to the lab together last week, and both reports show all metal wear is trending down and is now wearing like it should with metals in spec, and no contamination found.

My 6.4l sounds great and runs excellent. Blackstone just moved my oci to 8000mi for this next interval. That was outstanding news.

Even going out wheelin in an offroad park (severe duty use) the report was in spec and the best my truck has had.

I love having those kinds of results, measured data, and not having to guess at what I think is going on inside my engine!!!

FYI - they moved my wife's 5.7l Hemi to 16k mi oci. Isn't that something? Hers has 110k mi on the clock. Redline 5w30 and I did the same with her RP filter previous change and she ran 14k mi on last sample.

'16 Wagon Greene tune feed'n & fire'n 6.4L with 6spd • 5.13 AAM, 37" KM3, -12mm Fuels • Thuren Overland, DOR, Purple Cranium • CAI, ARH, Solo Mach44 • z36, EBC • Custom vinyl AVS, 4% tint • Morimoto, Rigid, Diode Dynamics • AlfaOBD, Diablo, Nanny Kill, Locker bypass •.................

 

[68PowerWagon]

I am currently running 6 quarts of Penzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40, 1 quart of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer, & use a Wix XP filter. I have been changing oil earlier now that I am towing & have heard way too many horror stories about people losing their cam prematurely. Some say just a little bit of dirt or varnish can lock up the roller bearings on the lifters so I am being **** & changing oil about every 5,000 miles. For no more than I drive that usually just adds one more oil change cycle to the year. Seems like most people who have had this issue have been running Mobil 1 oil too, so I am staying away from that. Might not be related at all but I am not taking the chance. Besides I have been using penziol for over 30 years & have never had a problem yet. All of the specs that Burla & others have shown the PUP does a pretty good job. And I have watched a couple of un biased utube videos showing that WixXP filters really hold thier own for the price.

 

[dexter]

I am currently running 6 quarts of Penzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40, 1 quart of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer, & use a Wix XP filter. I have been changing oil earlier now that I am towing & have heard way too many horror stories about people losing their cam prematurely. Some say just a little bit of dirt or varnish can lock up the roller bearings on the lifters so I am being **** & changing oil about every 5,000 miles. For no more than I drive that usually just adds one more oil change cycle to the year. Seems like most people who have had this issue have been running Mobil 1 oil too, so I am staying away from that. Might not be related at all but I am not taking the chance. Besides I have been using penziol for over 30 years & have never had a problem yet. All of the specs that Burla & others have shown the PUP does a pretty good job. And I have watched a couple of un biased utube videos showing that WixXP filters really hold thier own for the price.

Does the MDS work with the Lucas? Lucas said not to use it if I had MDS.