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You were not gaining anything geometry wise on a 2.8" lift with those ucas. Some will say you get a beefier uca with greasing zerks all for $100. Sure, but the problem is they have No offset and the angles on the bj are the same as stock so when the suspension flexes youre putting the same stress on the BJ as the stocker will do and limiting your travel the same plus you dont get extra caster/camber in your alignment like you will with offset ucas that are designed to work with 2-3" lift.
What are the benefits of this ucas? That the bj wont pop like the stockers after 2.8" lift because the cap is welded better?I bet the stockers wouldnt pop if you didnt lift the front. So the only real benefit is having a beefier uca with greasing zerks that could work better than stock IF, you left your front at stock heigth
Hopefully you do the install yourself otherwise youll have to pay extra for new ucas plus the the job of removing the old / installing new plus new alignment.
Pay once cry once. $400-$600 on real aftermarket ucas typically work better to our advantage with most IFS applications out there for many reasons.
You can always test if the BJs are toasted. They should be tigth and nothing should move.Thanks for your input. I understand all this. Some of us like to live a little on the edge and throw our lot in with the masses and hope that we’re like the thousands of others who run this setup with no issues. [emoji57]
I don’t off-road or overtly stress the suspension at all so I would be very surprised if this was due to any kind of geometry disparity. I’m leaning more towards faulty UCA. My question was more to determine if others with experience think it’s actually broke, or if that’s the way it’s supposed to look, even if it’s flexed a little further than “ideal”
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Did you paint you control arms? I thought the TTX version was a yellowish green color and the BJ cover was green?