motor swap question

[Finn2021]

Hi. new to forum. I have 2012 ram sport 5.7... one roller peeled off and ate my cam. found the parts in the pan... pita lol. anyways I found a really low mileage 2013 5.7 from a ram. no ecm with it …. my question... will a 2012 ecm in the truck work with it. Heard that the reluctor ring on the crank was different? do I have to swap it? swap sensors? flash 2012 ecu? or find an 2013 ecu? any input would be greatly appreciated... always found good info on this site

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Hi. new to forum. I have 2012 ram sport 5.7... one roller peeled off and ate my cam. found the parts in the pan... pita lol. anyways I found a really low mileage 2013 5.7 from a ram. no ecm with it …. my question... will a 2012 ecm in the truck work with it. Heard that the reluctor ring on the crank was different? do I have to swap it? swap sensors? flash 2012 ecu? or find an 2013 ecu? any input would be greatly appreciated... always found good info on this site

you wont have to do anything to the 2013 motor except install it in the truck and hook everything up. The engine controls from the PCM are identical between 2012 and 2013 and there are no differences in the timing set where you would have to change the tone ring on the crankshaft or the cam phaser. There is also no tuning involved where you would have to flash the PCM to run the 2013 motor in the 2012.

Yank that 5.7 with the camshaft and swap it out and hit the road. If you run into any trouble dont hesitate to ask for help in here. Ill do what I can.

Welcome to the forum! My name is Michael from Waxahachie, TX.

 

[Finn2021]

Thanks Michael. My names Pete up in Kelowna BC... thx again for the info. these forums are great for answers... gonna start yanking the old one out tomorrow.

 

[GTyankee]

My friend & i used to put the Blown engine right next to the donor engine& look to see if anything on the donor engine was truly different & needed to be switched.

But you should not need to do that, because Fast69Mopar knows his trade

 

[Fast69Mopar]

My friend & i used to put the Blown engine right next to the donor engine& look to see if anything on the donor engine was truly different & needed to be switched.

But you should not need to do that, because Fast69Mopar knows his trade

You do make a good point for those in the forum who do not do this kind of work on a daily basis. If engine swaps are not your forte but you have the ability to understand the nuts and bolts of things then putting both engine side by side for comparison is always a good idea. Even the most experienced of us still make mistakes but by putting both engines side by side is always a good idea.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Thanks Michael. My names Pete up in Kelowna BC... thx again for the info. these forums are great for answers... gonna start yanking the old one out tomorrow.

I need to make a correction to my earlier statement. In 2013 Chrysler did change the tone ring from a 32 tooth setup to a 58 tooth setup. Now, I have seen early 2013 motors with the 32 tooth setup and some with the 58 tooth setup. I would verify the build date of the truck that the motor came from. Also, if the 2013 motor is already out of the truck you can pull the pan to verify or if you want you can pull the crank sensor out and mark the reluctor with a marker or paint pen and roll the motor over and count the teeth. I apologize for not pointing this out earier.

To clarify, I have seen engines built between January 2013 and March 2013 that still had the 32 tooth setup.

 

[Finn2021]

Thx again Fast69Mopar.... i am going to definitely count the teeth. Hope its a 32 lol... but if its 58 tooth reluctor, which way would be the best to correct? change reluctor ring or ecm change or flash? the new used motor is out of a truck in a shop for few years now... Going to see if i can get some numbers off the engine. But counting teeth will work for sure. thx again for the info.

 

[Finn2021]

I just been reading (elsewhere on the forums) that there are two different 58 tooth reluctors? 2012 has 58 tooth with .170" gap and 2013 and newer with .130" gap. Im going to check this on both engines next cpl days and post back.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

I just been reading (elsewhere on the forums) that there are two different 58 tooth reluctors? 2012 has 58 tooth with .170" gap and 2013 and newer with .130" gap. Im going to check this on both engines next cpl days and post back.

The easiest way to correct the tone ring would be to go ahead and swap crankshafts if the old crank is still in good condition along with a new set of bearings. Or, you can swap the tone rings and install new tone ring fasteners with loctite.

You will already have the oil pan off so pull the crank and count and if it is in fact different just use the old crank. I would have no problem doing this if the old crank is in good shape.

 

[Finn2021]

Im attaching a pdf outlining the difference in 2012 and 2013 reluctor wheels. I lucked out... the replacement engine has the same reluctor ring and sensor (early 2013 perhaps?). I will see if there are any differences soon. I would like to know exactly what year the replacement is. I was told it was a 2013 but it has 2012 style ring and sensor. I found an engine serial number stamping, but cant seem to find a decoder. Anyone out there know how to decode this "TNXE6188210038".

 

[Burla]

Did you have hemi tick prior to that fail? Welcome to forum.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Yeah

Im attaching a pdf outlining the difference in 2012 and 2013 reluctor wheels. I lucked out... the replacement engine has the same reluctor ring and sensor (early 2013 perhaps?). I will see if there are any differences soon. I would like to know exactly what year the replacement is. I was told it was a 2013 but it has 2012 style ring and sensor. I found an engine serial number stamping, but cant seem to find a decoder. Anyone out there know how to decode this "TNXE6188210038".

Yeah man. I had a feeling that you might get lucky and get a 32 tooth setup. That makes things alot easier.

I can't remember how the Julian Date work for casting #'s but the way I am reading it says July 07, 2012 but I may well be wrong.

 

[crackerjack1957]

Im attaching a pdf outlining the difference in 2012 and 2013 reluctor wheels. I lucked out... the replacement engine has the same reluctor ring and sensor (early 2013 perhaps?). I will see if there are any differences soon. I would like to know exactly what year the replacement is. I was told it was a 2013 but it has 2012 style ring and sensor. I found an engine serial number stamping, but cant seem to find a decoder. Anyone out there know how to decode this "TNXE6188210038".

Example:

1. To decode the label:

TNXE6-032-6-20090

TNXE6 = Plant
032 = Julian day (001 to 365) (032 = Feb 1st)
6 = Model year
20090 = engine serial number


2. To decode the etched number (6S6.1LPC032620090):

6S-6.1L-P-C-032-6-2-0090

6S = Model year (2006)
6.1L = Engine size
P = Passenger
C = Car
032 = Julian day (032 = Feb 1st)
6 = Production year
2 = Shift (1, 2 or 3)
0090 = Engine serial number (last 4 digits)

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Example:

1. To decode the label:

TNXE6-032-6-20090

TNXE6 = Plant
032 = Julian day (001 to 365) (032 = Feb 1st)
6 = Model year
20090 = engine serial number

Thanks for the clarification on the Julian dating. I knew I was getting it wrong I haven't looked at the Julian date right down in a long time.

 

[crackerjack1957]

Found a better example:

For example, on this particular bar code label, you see the number TNXE6 1133 1 1260 and here’s what it means:


TOP LINE:


TNXE6 1133 1 1260
TNXE6: Engine Assembly Plant, this is the code for Saltillo Engine Plant (SEP)
1133: Is the Julian Date Code 1133 which is the 113th day of 2013 (April 23, 2013)
1: Shift number
1260: Engine serial number


BOTTOM LINE:


P04893288AA 6.4L AA
P04893288AA: Engine part number
288: Last 3 numeric digits of the part number
6.4L: Engine displacement
AA: Part number revision level

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Found a better example:

For example, on this particular bar code label, you see the number TNXE6 1133 1 1260 and here’s what it means:


TOP LINE:


TNXE6 1133 1 1260
TNXE6: Engine Assembly Plant, this is the code for Saltillo Engine Plant (SEP)
1133: Is the Julian Date Code 1133 which is the 113th day of 2013 (April 23, 2013)
1: Shift number
1260: Engine serial number


BOTTOM LINE:


P04893288AA 6.4L AA
P04893288AA: Engine part number
288: Last 3 numeric digits of the part number
6.4L: Engine displacement
AA: Part number revision level


View attachment 466038

Well, I actually got it right with July 07, 2012. Thanks for posting this info.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Found a better example:

For example, on this particular bar code label, you see the number TNXE6 1133 1 1260 and here’s what it means:


TOP LINE:


TNXE6 1133 1 1260
TNXE6: Engine Assembly Plant, this is the code for Saltillo Engine Plant (SEP)
1133: Is the Julian Date Code 1133 which is the 113th day of 2013 (April 23, 2013)
1: Shift number
1260: Engine serial number


BOTTOM LINE:


P04893288AA 6.4L AA
P04893288AA: Engine part number
288: Last 3 numeric digits of the part number
6.4L: Engine displacement
AA: Part number revision level


View attachment 466038

Well, I actually got it right with July 07, 2012. Thanks for posting this info.

 

[Finn2021]

Thanks guys for the help. Yeah the hemi tick was there... then more of a crunch as the roller peeled off lol. Looks like the new motor I found is a 2012. That saves a lot of time.... it has a 58 tooth wheel, as does 2013.... but 2013 changed the thickness and the crank sensor. Moot though, as luckily this has 2012 version. And thanks guys for the serial number decode. I went to dodge dealership here in Kelowna BC and they flat out told me they would not decode the date for me.... like it was top secret lol.

 

[Finn2021]

So now I know the motor fits without changing crank or anything, I did some tests on it. The new 2012 motor supposedly had only 18 000 km on it when the truck it was in was written off in 2014. It was bought in 2014 for someone's project and ended up sitting in a shop covered up for 7 years. The motor looks brand new under valve covers so believe it is really low mileage. So I lubed everything up and did a leakdown pressure test and almost all the valves leaked a bit (I presume from sitting). Do you guys think the valves should be lapped or would running it clean up and seat the valves? And any other ideas to freshen up this engine that sat for so long? I have it on a stand with valve covers, rocker assemblies, intake, and exhaust manifolds off so I can see the valves.

 

[crackerjack1957]

That low a mileage engine I would not be afraid to run as is if it was pulled from a salvage.
But if it was pulled for engine problems maybe not.
Engine that has sit for 7 years will definitely leak by the seats but should seal after running if no corrosion.
On the stand is a good time for upgrades though.