My brake pad fell out!

[chrisbh17]

I guess my concern is what to do to keep the slides moving? I clean the rust and grime out and I use brake parts grease on all surfaces but I feel like unless this is done regularly it’s bound to wear off and seize again before the next brake job. I worked at a Chevy dealership years ago that would upsell an oil change with a “brake cleaning” where they would clean everything on the truck with a Mobil parts cleaner then re grease everything with out taking it off. To me that seemed counter productive.

I’m buying decent quality brakes so I’m doing the best I can to do it right but I feel like it’s inevitable to happen again. After all my truck only has 44k miles on it. It’s a 2016. I consider that “newish”

All of my Nissans were known for brake issues like that. Brake performance on them was spectacular, but they would eat up calipers quickly because the pins would seize. Honestly, the pins are cheap enough you might be better off just replacing them at a given time interval. I use SilGlyde as the caliper lube, but there are other products out there too. Yes, Im in rust/salt country, but every pin I pulled out of them had no grease (boots tore...make sure to replace them too, if thats the case!) or the grease was rock hard. I also think some of the issue is the grease packing into the end of the slider bore, preventing the slider from going in and out the correct amount.

Yeah i wouldnt waste money on a under coating rust will happen no matter what when salt is involved. just a matter of time and how much you wanna spend on under coating. i would find a cheap jeep like he said and drive it to the wheels fall off then take it to the scrap yard and get money for the steel.

My truck is now basically 2 years old and the undercarriage looks like it did the day I brought it home. Highly doubt it would be the same way if I had not undercoated it. In my case, I do it myself, so its just cost of materials ($65 for a gallon of Corrosion Free) and 4 hours or so of actual work...most of which is my OCD causing me to remove the inner fender wells, rocker plugs, etc. Part of the reason for my purchasing my RAM was the rust happening on my Frontier, so I know it can (will?) happen eventually, but I also know the "sore spots" and since I had it from new, I can take care of the RAM from day 1.

 

[Dinky]

All of my Nissans were known for brake issues like that. Brake performance on them was spectacular, but they would eat up calipers quickly because the pins would seize. Honestly, the pins are cheap enough you might be better off just replacing them at a given time interval. I use SilGlyde as the caliper lube, but there are other products out there too. Yes, Im in rust/salt country, but every pin I pulled out of them had no grease (boots tore...make sure to replace them too, if thats the case!) or the grease was rock hard. I also think some of the issue is the grease packing into the end of the slider bore, preventing the slider from going in and out the correct amount.



My truck is now basically 2 years old and the undercarriage looks like it did the day I brought it home. Highly doubt it would be the same way if I had not undercoated it. In my case, I do it myself, so its just cost of materials ($65 for a gallon of Corrosion Free) and 4 hours or so of actual work...most of which is my OCD causing me to remove the inner fender wells, rocker plugs, etc. Part of the reason for my purchasing my RAM was the rust happening on my Frontier, so I know it can (will?) happen eventually, but I also know the "sore spots" and since I had it from new, I can take care of the RAM from day 1.

for sure it will help but rust will appear and if no done right it will cause more harm. everything looks good on the surface and then one day **** falls apart. the coating you use was actually holding the stuff together. i am not saying its a bad idea and if it works awesome. i have found over the years nothing is maintenance free and there is not much to stop rust from happening just a matter of time. I fish the saltwater all the time no matter how much salt neutralizer we use on our gear and boat **** will just rust and corrode. marine grade stainless can still rust just a matter of time.

 

[chrisbh17]

for sure it will help but rust will appear and if no done right it will cause more harm. everything looks good on the surface and then one day **** falls apart. the coating you use was actually holding the stuff together. i am not saying its a bad idea and if it works awesome. i have found over the years nothing is maintenance free and there is not much to stop rust from happening just a matter of time. I fish the saltwater all the time no matter how much salt neutralizer we use on our gear and boat **** will just rust and corrode. marine grade stainless can still rust just a matter of time.

I think you are thinking "old school" undercoatings, like rubberized, thick paint, etc.

What we're talking is oil-based...its basically spray on oil. It does NOT hide anything ("dries" clear) nor can it get cut, nicked, slit like the rubberized stuff can. Since it provides no place for sand/salt/dirt/water to "hide" it will not cause unseen rust like the rubberized stuff can. And since it is oil, water will not penetrate it, even salted water just beads up on the outside of it. Yes, if you miss areas when applying, those areas can rust. But in the applied-on areas you'll just see droplets of water beading up.

 

[Bent]

I used to drive a 2007 Rav4 before we bought our Ram. A few years ago I was way out in the bush ice fishing. I had just packed up and left when I noticed my brake pedal felt really soft. Somehow BOTH slider pins had come out and the caliper came right off! Was hanging from the brake line! Luckily I had vice grips and was able to pinch it and get to town to buy a new caliper.

 

[blackbeautyhemi]

My brake pad fell out on the rear of my ‘15 two months ago. 40k miles. And of course I didn’t noticed after it rained and the metal shavings from it coated my glossy fuel wheels and turned it a nice orange rust color. Used a cleaner to get it all off and now the clear coat is peeling off the wheel... expensive brake change.

 

[WWDiesel]

I'm in Georgia so no road salt issues, but I had a single pad fall off of one front pad on a set of high performance ceramic pads while towing a 10k camper with my 98 Dodge Ram Cummins a few years ago.
When it happened, the brake pedal went all the way to the floor and truck was trying to make a right hand turn at the same time when trying to stop for a red light on a 65 mph speed limit highway.
Talk about pucker factor, scared the *#@*# out of me!
I was told this can happen with ceramic pads, so I went back to full metallic pads and have never had any more issues other than a little associated dust.
After this happened, I will never buy ceramic pads ever again....

 

[DamnRam1500]

I got the brakes in record time on Friday evening. Props to R1 Concepts for getting the rear brakes toe by Friday so I could do the job and take my truck on a short trip Saturday morning.

I got the plain GeoMet coated rotor and matching pads to the front.

 

[OzCop]

How many miles are on that truck? If you don't want to lose your truck for a week go to the auto parts store and buy a set of cheapies for 40 bucks, put them in, then change them out when new stuff comes in.
Don't blame the truck...that could happen to any of them...and does...

 

[DamnRam1500]

How many miles are on that truck? If you don't want to lose your truck for a week go to the auto parts store and buy a set of cheapies for 40 bucks, put them in, then change them out when new stuff comes in.
Don't blame the truck...that could happen to any of them...and does...

44,500 miles or so. It’s all fixed now.

 

[TXCOMT]

Wow..sorry to hear that! By coincidence, I did my front pads on Saturday and all went very well! I have 45K miles on my Reb and the rotors looked quite nice, so it seems like that adage about two pads to a rotor service are true, at least for a North Texas truck!

TXCOMT

 

[DamnRam1500]

Wow..sorry to hear that! By coincidence, I did my front pads on Saturday and all went very well! I have 45K miles on my Reb and the rotors looked quite nice, so it seems like that adage about two pads to a rotor service are true, at least for a North Texas truck!

TXCOMT

Thanks, unfortunately these things happen. It’s all fixed now and I’m happier with the new brakes.

Unfortunately I’ve never been able to get two pads out of one rotor change since they stopped turning/milking rotors. They all have a large lip on the edge and in this particular case they were warped and pulsating when braking so I figured it was smart to do everything.

 

[daveray9]

I have a 2016 Ram 1500 Express QC 4x4 Hemi with a 2.5” lift, 35s and oem sport 20s. I knew I needed brakes so I figured I’d upgrade with R1 Concepts pads and rotors. I had them on my Jeep and loved them. Saturday I did the front brakes. I bought their black zinc coated drilled and slotted E Line rotors and their OEp pads.

(The black coating wears off the pad surface of the rotor in a few days leaving the rest of the rotor protected from corrosion longer then regular rotors.)View attachment 166791View attachment 166792

The drivers front rotor took over half an hour to remove. It was rusted in bad. I blame this on that brine the dot spray on the road before snow storms.

After all the truck only had 44,470 miles on it.

So fronts done Saturday and I did a few errands Sunday everything is great. This morning I go to work and my brake pedal immediately hits the floor. I stop, check everything out and everything looks fine. Pumped the pedal and went to work.

I get home from work this evening and find a rear pad in the driveway. It’s very rusted and separated from the metal backing plate. The drivers rear rotor is all rusted on the inside surface and the pad seems to be seized in the slides. ‍

I thought I could wait and do rear pads in a few weeks when I had some more cash. Now I’m out a truck for the week while I wait for my rear pads and rotors to ship.

The front brakes needed a lot of cleaning and greasing where the clips go and it looks like the rears will need even more cleaning.


Stupid Dodge ‍

View attachment 166793

About to pull the trigger on these but I wanted to see how they hold up in a winter, only reason I'm going with R1 eline is the black zinc coating... otherwise I'd be powerstop z36 all the way.