Nitrous Install info, parts list, jetting charts, tuning help

[BigSloth]

I'm gonna try and consolidate the info for nitrous installs on the 4th gen rams, since so many people ask the question but quickly get dissauded due to lack of answers. Hopefully, everyone that has something to contribute will do so, and we can localize this into one place.




PARTS SOURCES

Nitrous Outlet X series single nozzle kit
This is a very good kit for these trucks, the provided solenoids can flow up to 200HP of nitrous, which is about the threshold of what some people consider safe on a stock bottom end. This kit comes with all necessary hardware, wiring, solenoids, relays, a WOT microswitch(that is a PITA to mount in a 14, BTW), and bottle brackets. I personally have this kit on my 14, and have had no trouble from the system itself and no problems from the truck.

Stage 1 accessory pack
Stage 2 Accessory pack
Accessory kits are available and allow you to bundle things such as purge kits, bottle heaters, pressure gauges, fuel pressure safety switches and blowdown tubes. They are not required hardware, but offer up conveniences and safety measures.

AEM Wideband AFR
A wideband is a must have tuning tool for nitrous. It will not only help you tune it, it will allow you to see if there is a problem with fuel or nitrous supply. I consider it a safety measure, since a fuel pressure safety switch can't tell you that a solenoid has not opened, but this can.

Dynotune nitrous bottle heater with pressure switch
This is by far the best price i've found on a bottle heater that is controlled by a pressure switch, rather than a thermostat in the heater. Pressure switch operation provides more consistent bottle pressure and will get there faster than a thermostat operated model. I couldnt justify $3-400 for an accessory pack, so I run one of these. Ebay seller is Dynotune sales dept.

NHRA fitting, black anodized
Nitrous blow down tube for NHRA fittings
NHRA fittings and blow down tubes are required by the NHRA to run at any sanctioned event if the nitrous bottle is located inside the cab. This vents the nitrous outside the vehicle in case the burst disc fails. Some tracks that regularly run NHRA races also require this for test and tune purposes, so you might need one. Check with your local track to confirm.


4AN purge kits for X series systems
This is the purge system for the X series package above, purging allows you to bleed the air and gaseous nitrous from the lines before making a pass. These are not required, and unless you're either very serious about getting every tenth possible from your nitrous you wont need one. I do not have a purge solenoid and I have no problem running fast times.

Dynotune nitrous switch center
This is a great, gauge pod mounted switch center that brings all of your switches together in one place. If you're going to have a bottle heater and a purge valve, this is highly recommended to clean up your install. This is not required, and all the kits I have posted come with their own switches.

Gauge pods
You'll need one of these for your wideband. Go ahead and decide now if you're going to need more than one hole.

Denso 3381 spark plugs
If you plan on running more than about a 75 shot, you will need to change the plugs to a colder heat range. If you're going for a 150-175 shot, you will need the denso 3381 plugs. People claim that these need to be replaced at the track, because they foul out quickly with street driving. I have found this not to be true for me, as I have put over 12,000 miles on these plugs, and every time I pull them out to check they are just as clean as they ever were.


JETTING CHARTS

The X series kit listed in this thread, and most other kits will come with their own recommended jetting charts to start you on your way. They will tell you what size nitrous and fuel jets to run based on the desired HP. All 4th Gen hemi trucks use a 58PSI fuel system, so use the 55PSI table when jetting.

The supplied jetting cards, and these tables, are tuned extremely RICH. Rich is safe, so they are purposely left on the rich side to avoid engine damage. There is a lot of power on the table if you just get a wideband and tune off of your AFR. You don't have to get so serious that you're reading the spark plugs after each pass, but getting the AFR around 11.5-11.8 on a pass will yield best results while still being safe. My experience with the supplied jetting charts is that it puts you around a 10.1 AFR at every HP level above 100. By changing the jets to lean this out to a safe 11.5-11.8, I picked up over 2 tenths and 1mph in the 1/8.

Nitrous Outlet brand kits
ZEX kits
NX kits
The jetting changes between manufacturers, I'm assuming that this is due to differences in orifice sizes in the solenoids, so its best to start with the charts for your brand of solenoids. All the more reason to have a wideband, gotta be able to see what you're doing.

Nitrous jets
For when you realize that the few jets they send with the kit won't allow you to get the AFR desired, or maybe you want to go with a half step to 125 or 175. This is a good price, cheaper than ordering from OEM. The Ebay seller is very prompt and has excellent customer service, I have conducted several transactions with him and was always pleased.


FAQ'S

Is nitrous flammable/will it blow up inside my truck?

No. Nitrous is an oxidizer, and will not combust on its own. The bottles are rated to a little over 3000PSI, and have a burst disc rated at 3000PSI that will blow off before the bottle blows. If the bottle will be in the cab, use a blow down tube to vent it in case this happens. It is very difficult to heat a bottle to the point that it will trip the blowoff valve, but it is still not recommended to leave the bottle in the truck for long periods during the warmer months.

Will it void my powertrain warranty?
The short answer to this is yes. I am a master level technician for Lexus, and have worked in dealerships for years. Most dealerships will try to void your warranty if they discover that your nitrous has created a problem in the truck. We, as technicians, have a certain level of ass covering that has to be maintained. Lying about the presence of power adders in warranty claims can cost us our jobs and possible restitution for false claims. You can figure out how to commit warranty fraud on your own, and i'm in no way advising you to do so. If this is a problem for you, then I would seriously consider not installing a nitrous kit.

Is it going to destroy my engine?
Not likely, but results will vary. A properly installed nitrous system with quality components, being used only during WOT conditions should not hurt anything on these trucks, up to about 200HP. I'm spraying 175 now with no issues at all. Stay under 200HP to be safe.

Is it going to destroy my transmission?
Absolutely not if you use it correctly. Superchargers pose more of a risk to a trans, because they make more power at part throttle when line pressure is low, and WOT downshifts are very bad as well. Nitrous is only used at WOT, when line pressure is highest, and will not hurt the transmissions in these trucks, even the 8 speeds.


Lets keep the links/knowledge/experience coming.

 

[moregrip]

Very nice man! thank you!

 

[Ratket]

Sticky this please. Once you go bottle fed you never go back

 

[BigSloth]

ADVANCED TUNING/GETTING THE MOST OUT OF YOUR KIT

Some of us might not be content with just slapping the system on there and running it. In addition to using the wideband to tune the nitrous, you can read the spark plugs after every pass to get a good picture of what is happening from cylinder to cylinder.

Spark plug scope
A spark plug scope is a tool that magnifies the spark plug so you can easily read it.

Spark plug reading guide, with pics
More on plug reading
Plug reading is important for maximizing the performance of your engine on nitrous. This is by no means required for just a casual user. You can run solely off the recommended jetting if you want to, you're just going to run rich and not make good power. Tuning off of AFR alone is usually plenty for most people, but it doesn't get more accurate than plug reading. I know its not really possible for most people to tow their trucks back to the pits after a pass, but try to minimize the run time.

NOS RPM window switch with TPS activation
For smaller shots(50-100hp) you can get away with spraying through shifts. Just keep your foot planted, and let it roll. For bigger shots(125-200hp), that's not the case. While it is safe to spray through the shifts at bigger shots( i do at 150-175), you could be leaving ET on the table. The truck slows down enough that you can feel it bog during the shifts, and the rich spike in AFR that occurs during this time can cost you a little bit of ET to recover from. On the 8 speed trucks, such as mine, this is especially true since you're going to hit 4th gear just before the end of an 1/8 mile track. By installing a window switch, you can program the nitrous only to operate within a certain RPM range, or window. You can then adjust this to come on later if you have traction problems, turn off just before the shift, and reactivate in the next gear. It's a good tool to have, and as soon as I have fully funded my wedding and honeymoon, it will be one of the first things I change about my setup.

Dynotune time based micro progressive controller
This is an affordable, single stage, simple progressive controller. It has 3 time based ramps selected by switches at the top of the unit. Progressive control gives you even more ability to shave ET when you're running a larger shot, I only recommend this for 150+HP. Progressive control allows you to blend the soft, no wheelspin, controlled launches of a small shot(or no shot) with the big power and MPH of a large shot. Basically the controller duty cycles the solenoids gradually over the time selected until they reach full power. This way, you come off the line nice and clean with minimal wheelspin, then ramp in the nitrous once you're moving. Anyone that's ever been on a track knows that the first 60' can make or break a race. Big shots right off the line need big, sticky tires and still have wheelspin problems. I run 315/40/18 nitto NT05R radials, and even with a good burnout and track prep, I spin a little off the line with a full 150.

NANO nitrous
NANO nitrous is about the coolest damn thing you can do to a nitrous system, IMO. It's a small nitrogen tank that you can get filled at a paintball shop, a special bottle valve for your nitrous bottle, and a connection hose. Liquid nitrous is useful nitrous, so ideally, you want only liquid nitrous to flow out of the bottle and to your solenoids, this is why there's a siphon tube inside a nitrous bottle.
The problem is, as you spray and the bottle empties, the liquid nitrous expands into a gaseous state to fill the extra space. This means less nitrous for you to use. Also, as the bottle empties, it cools down to near freezing temps. As you might remember from science class, when a gas is cooled inside a closed contained, it decreases in pressure. Decreases in nitrous pressure are bad for performance because they cause the system ro richen up. You want 950psi of bottle pressure for most applications, if you tune a perfect AFR on 950psi, and the pressure drops to 800psi after 2 passes, then you will be running rich.
The common fix for this is a bottle heater, which does it's job to increase bottle pressure by heating it. The cost, you lose more liquid nitrous as it gets heated and expands into gas to fill the void. Eventually there is too much gas in the bottle and not enough liquid, and you begin to lose power.
NANO uses nitrogen gas as a capping gas, injecting it into the nitrous bottle as the nitrous flows out of the bottle. By doing this, the nitrogen from the NANO bottle fills the void, which keeps the nitrous in liquid form. The system regulates itself to maintain steady bottle pressure even during a pass, something that a bottle heater can't do. NANO allows you to make more passes on one bottle, make more consistent passes overall, and waste less nitrous.

MORE FAQ'S

How much does the actual nitrous cost once I have a system?
Depends on your location, how many other shops fill bottles, and how much of a **** all those guys are. Where I live, there's only one game in town and he knows it, so its $4.00 a pound for a full 10lb fill, 4.50/lb for a partial fill. Speaking with friends around the country, it seems prices range from $2/lb(lucky SOB's) to $5/lb in the US, and sometimes over $7.50/lb in Canada.

Is nitrous illegal?
This one is tricky. Federally, no. On any racetrack anywhere in the US, no. On the street, it varies state to state. Check with your state laws, if there is legislation prohibiting the use of nitrous oxide, usually it specifies for purposes of inhaling it/using it to get high. Nitrous sold for motorsports is deemed unfit for human consumption, and does not meet these criteria. If your state does not have any legislation SPECIFICALLY mentioning nitrous systems for vehicles, then it is safe to assume that it will not get you fined or anything. However, the general rule in every state is that the bottle is to be disconnected from the line when on public roads. I know in AL, MS, and FL none of the cops ever seem to care that you have it or not, as long as they didn't just catch you street racing. For best results, check your state laws, and if its unclear, check with local law enforcement or your county Sheriff. BIGSLOTH IS NOT AN ATTORNEY, AND IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY LEGAL TROUBLE YOU MAY FIND YOURSELF IF BASED ON THIS ADVICE, ALWAYS CHECK FOR YOURSELF.

 

[hemihustlin]

+1 for sticky

 

[BigSloth]

Thanks guys.

Obligatory video of my nitrous crew cab destroying a TRD supercharged 14 Tundra

Round 1
Round 2, switched lanes because he said left lane was hooking better. Ran best pass ever @7.85

 

[bigfoot2219]

Thanks guys.

Obligatory video of my nitrous crew cab destroying a TRD supercharged 14 Tundra

Round 1
Round 2, switched lanes because he said left lane was hooking better. Ran best pass ever @7.85

Someone's truck is suddenly thirsty for a 75 shot

 

[BigSloth]

Personal experience note: A crew cab 8 speed CAN NOT handle a 175 shot off the line. Even on 315/40/18 NT05R's on a decently sticky track, it blew the tires off in 1st, 2nd, then wouldnt shift into 3rd, resulting in having to let completely out of it. Also, it may just be an isolated incident, but the transmission didn't seem to like it through the shifts. They felt kinda wonky.

So, that being said, it is recommended that you get a progressive controller with a window switch to run anything over 100, but is necessary for anything over 150.

 

[coolbrzblu]

I'd like to run a progressive controller to maximize my options. Where is the best place to get a TPS reading for the controller?

 

[shane1981]

nvm

 

[kidmandudebro]

BUMPING THIS THREAD LETS SEE WHATS HAPPEND IN THE PAST 4 YEARS, UPDATES?

AND SORRY FOR ALL CAPS

 

[Wild one]

BUMPING THIS THREAD LETS SEE WHATS HAPPEND IN THE PAST 4 YEARS, UPDATES?

AND SORRY FOR ALL CAPS

Looks like he hasn't checked in a little over 2 years,not sure he's still on here . If you go to Tuned Rams or High Performance Rams on facebook you'll find lots of guys running nitrous .I have over 500 passes and 50,000 miles of spirited driving on a 75 shot,and maybe a dozen passes on a 100 shot. Spring for 1 step colder on the plugs and stick with copper plugs (Denso 3381's are pretty good) gap them at roughly 0.030" ,run good fuel and have your tuner pull a degree or 2 out of the timing and the engine will live all day long on a 75 shot.Stick with a 75 shot as the bottle lasts way longer,lol

 

[kidmandudebro]

Looks like he hasn't checked in a little over 2 years,not sure he's still on here . If you go to Tuned Rams or High Performance Rams on facebook you'll find lots of guys running nitrous .I have over 500 passes and 50,000 miles of spirited driving on a 75 shot,and maybe a dozen passes on a 100 shot. Spring for 1 step colder on the plugs and stick with copper plugs (Denso 3381's are pretty good) gap them at roughly 0.030" ,run good fuel and have your tuner pull a degree or 2 out of the timing and the engine will live all day long on a 75 shot.Stick with a 75 shot as the bottle lasts way longer,lol

Thanks Man I appreciate it the info and knowledge. What state you from? I'm up in Connecticut.

I think I need to put together a list here. Seems I got some decisions to make.

Also just seen a Hellcat Supercharger bolt right on a 5.7 and make mad power with stock motor and exhaust. YouTube is killing me! LOL

 

[Wild one]

Thanks Man I appreciate it the info and knowledge. What state you from? I'm up in Connecticut.

I think I need to put together a list here. Seems I got some decisions to make.

Also just seen a Hellcat Supercharger bolt right on a 5.7 and make mad power with stock motor and exhaust. YouTube is killing me! LOL

There's better blowers then the Hellcat blower,that don't need MMX's adapter plates. If you're planning on boosting it,the first step is pull the engine,take it to a machine shop and have forged pistons and better rods put in it,and it doesn't hurt to upgrade the crank while you're at it. Boost and a stock Hemi do not go together,no matter what anybody tells you,lol. Not in a State,i'm in a Province, Alberta to be exact,lol.

 

[kidmandudebro]

There's better blowers then the Hellcat blower,that don't need MMX's adapter plates. If you're planning on boosting it,the first step is pull the engine,take it to a machine shop and have forged pistons and better rods put in it,and it doesn't hurt to upgrade the crank while you're at it. Boost and a stock Hemi do not go together,no matter what anybody tells you,lol. Not in a State,i'm in a Province, Alberta to be exact,lol.

Thank you! Seriously Alberta must be nice this time of the year!

Yeah I think I'm just going to save money for a custom tune from a local shop. I just need to find one.

GO Bruins!

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Thank you! Seriously Alberta must be nice this time of the year!

Yeah I think I'm just going to save money for a custom tune from a local shop. I just need to find one.

GO Bruins!

If you run a wideband O2 sensor and purchase a pack of jets you can fine tune your nitrous either adding or removing fuel and the same with the nitrous side.

Example. On a single nozzle Nitrous Express kit the jetting for a 75shot is 41 orfice on the nitrous and 22 on the fuel. However on my build at that time running 22 fuel would net me a 10.1 AF ratio which means im leaving plenty of power on the table but its safe on the fuel side if things. I stepped the fuel down to a 20 which leaned out the AF to 11:5:1 which is still safe making more power.

 

[kidmandudebro]

If you run a wideband O2 sensor and purchase a pack of jets you can fine tune your nitrous either adding or removing fuel and the same with the nitrous side.

Example. On a single nozzle Nitrous Express kit the jetting for a 75shot is 41 orfice on the nitrous and 22 on the fuel. However on my build at that time running 22 fuel would net me a 10.1 AF ratio which means im leaving plenty of power on the table but its safe on the fuel side if things. I stepped the fuel down to a 20 which leaned out the AF to 11:5:1 which is still safe making more power.

I get about 20% of what your saying.

 

[RedSRT4Me]

I get about 20% of what your saying.

Once you acquire a kit and reread what I wrote it will make more sense with parts in hand.

 

[Wild one]

I get about 20% of what your saying.

Being as it looks like your 50,damn kid,lol,it might be easier to explain it like a carburator. There's 2 jets inline in both the fuel feed line and the nitrous feed line,that in a nutshell control the amount of either fuel or nitrous that flows through the spray bar, so if you install a smaller fuel jet it leans the nitrous to fuel ratio down,very similiar to if you jetted a carb with smaller jets to lean the carb down.Most kits come with jets that are set up for a very safe tune,which keeps the motor running on the rich side to prevent piston damage,so by jetting the fuel jet with a smaller inline jet,you restrict the fuel flow to the spraybar,which leans out the air/fuel ratio and in most cases will supply more power,up till you burn a piston.If you're going to play with the jetting,you'll definitely want to invest in an air/fuel ratio gauge to keep track of what your jet changes are doing to the air/fuel ratio. The old saying "lean is mean" applies to nitrous,up till you melt a piston,lol

 

[Tim Garceau]

Due for a plug change soon, hmm... good info

Where are the 4 door guys putting the bottle?