AlfaOBD programmed a replacement Key fob ok but it stopped working

[posttal]

Yeah but experience don't mean nothing if you're not familiar with the problem and this one definitely has me stumped... I'm trying to get all the information I can get on it since I know I can't be alone, I appreciate you chiming in trying to help......

 

[Atcer2018]

Yeah but experience don't mean nothing if you're not familiar with the problem and this one definitely has me stumped... I'm trying to get all the information I can get on it since I know I can't be alone, I appreciate you chiming in trying to help......

I got something puzzling for you. I’ve reset my RF Hub without losing anything that’s already programmed in. As in all fobs, push to start, remote start, enable LED lighting and global window down. My BigHorn did not come factory with the above upgrades. I slowly added them over the course of a year following directions over in the AlfaOBD section. All the above was installed, programmed and working when I bought new tires and gained an inch. Went from 275/60R20 to 275/65R20 and I reprogrammed the BCM for the slightly larger tires so the speedo would be accurate. I distinctly remember having to reset the RFHub after programming and I didn’t lose any previous functions. Are you 100 percent positive that the RFHub reset process wipes out the existing fobs? For me it did not. Reading through the AlfaOBD section there is a lot of RF Hub resetting going on.

 

[posttal]

I've never done it so I'm not going to bet my life on it but I'm on the Facebook site "Ram AlfaOBD User’s" and everyone says a reset of the RFhub will clear the current programing of the current fobs and you would need new keys.I think it is bases on the fact that in alphaOBD the only selection is "RF-HUB Reset/Replace" and for sure if you replace it the fobs no longer work and if AlphaOBD has them listed as the same function its assume the fobs wouldn't work for either function..But if you actually did a reset with the AlphaOBD and your old fobs work then we gotta talk because i'd like to try it. Guess my question from reading your post is why you had to go into the RF Hub just because you changed tire size in the BCM ?

 

[Atcer2018]

Guess my question from reading your post is why you had to go into the RF Hub just because you changed tire size in the BCM ?

For the TPMS thresholds. Different tire sizes and/or weight ratings dictate different tire pressures. If you don’t update the pressure thresholds to match the new tires in the RF Hub you get the idiot light on the dash.

I’m not an expert on programming and pretty much follow others directions when making modifications to my truck. My understanding of the RF Hub is it communicates with the peripherals via radio frequencies. Until the hub is flashed or reset it doesn’t write the new info back to the BCM.

 

[shrubs]

So I need 1 new Fob for my 2015.

I think I found a good one from North Coast.

Read all the posts and am confused.
Reprogramming.I want to try DI myself. Apple phone, so which obd reader?
Any good to know info for the fix process?

 

[shrubs]

Answering my own post. Reprogramming. I will try taking the guts out and putting in the replacement.

North Coast end a-rounded by saying instructions on reprogramming were available. Yes, but all the instructions turned out to be was- use a locksmith.

I anticipate a locksmith will turn their nose up at a product they did not provide.

 

[shrubs]

Yes.

 

[shrubs]

So my "final answer" as they used to say on the game show. I had an existing FOB that was wonky from wear.Amazing what complexity such an innocuous item is.

Choices I am aware of:

1. Do the dealer thing and pay dearly for one.
2. Buy a cheapie on the net. Get what you pay for prevails or go to a retail store for vehicle parts. They may reprogram too.
3. DIY a self repair to the bad parts.
4. Search out a locksmith who will handle reprogramming and more if needed.

IDK about lost, drowned, or extra FOBs.

Programming may or may not have to be done by an outside source depending on your year and model. One video suggests reusing the "guts" with replacement FOB parts to avoid reprogramming issues.
DIY programming with an OBD. Not sure on equipment or results.

Hope this helps overcome all the vague info I sifted through.

 

[posttal]

Well after putting it off and fooling with on line keys i finally called the dealer.... 2013..and ONLY 2013 with the push button start proximity keyfob take a special fob..that are not the same as the 2014 and up 4th gen trucks..or so they say. I have one on order since the dealer doesnt even stock it anymore and when it comes in we'll see if it does the job.

 

[RamTek]

I'm checking in A little late but was hoping Posttal had A resolution by now I am having the same issues with my 2013 1500.
I'll start with my story and see if its the same but different some ways. I purchased the truck from an insurance auction that said it had mechanical issues. The front differential needed work but which I'm A retired mechanic so no biggy.
The real problem was none of the fobs worked I got two with the truck I believe to but the original by the looks of wear and tear. The one I hit any button and the instrument lights come the other fob nothing happened pushing the buttons.
The fob that did nothing work work in the emergency start procedure using the fob to push the start stop button the other fob would not. I tried to reprogrammed the fobs and the fobs nether would program.

I had to erase the keys first and then only one would take a program the one that made the instrument lights come on. The other fob that would start the truck in emergency procedure would not work at ALL. For those that think its the batteries its NOT it was the first thing I changed on both fobs. I thought maybe I just have bad fobs I ordered two new ones just as A back up plan.

So back to the one fob that would take A program I thought this is great now its running I'll go on A road trip so I jumped in the truck headed to the gas station cause it was low on fuel I fill the tank up jump back in the truck and NOTHING would work the fob was not detected or said wrong fob and of coarse it was the busy time at the station and cars behind me wanting gas and I couldn't pull away from the pumps.

By then my two new fobs were in and programmed them at the same time as the old one. It was A good thing I left those at home and I''ll tell you why in A short while so after I got the transmission in neutral and got help to push it away from the pumps which made people behind me waiting to gas up happier.

I called my brother to rescue me took me home to get my spare fobs. Here's were it gets weirder I thought it was just the old fob that was going bad so I returned with the two new fobs jumped in the truck started right up everything hunky dory Right well when I got back home to assess what happened I tried the new fobs neither worked they got I want to say erased but undetectable.

FYI this has gone on over several weeks so most people I talk to had me convinced the RF hub was bad Replaced it same exact problem few more days and thought maybe just maybe the the push button was bad so I replaced it same problem. This is what I know so far I've tried several different scenarios and this is how it fails mind you I had to erase and reprogram the fobs to check it out.
I started the truck drove it up and down my driveway still worked I drove down the road and back still worked FYI I'm going by the message on the dash that when the fob quits it will say fob not in vehicle or fob not detected. Drove several times didn't quit only until I stopped opened the door no message and closed the door then the message popped up.

I did it with all three fobs same thing and did it with drivers door or passengers door either one and yes i left the truck running because it will stay running if the fob is in the vehicle or not.

That's My Story I'm Sticking to it.
Any Thoughts?

 

[RamDiver]

I'm checking in A little late but was hoping Posttal had A resolution by now I am having the same issues with my 2013 1500.
I'll start with my story and see if its the same but different some ways. I purchased the truck from an insurance auction that said it had mechanical issues. The front differential needed work but which I'm A retired mechanic so no biggy. The real problem was none of the fobs worked I got two with the truck I believe to but the original by the looks of wear and tear. The one I hit any button and the instrument lights come the other fob nothing happened pushing the buttons. The fob that did nothing work work in the emergency start procedure using the fob to push the start stop button the other fob would not. I tried to reprogrammed the fobs and the fobs nether would program. I had to erase the keys first and then only one would take a program the one that made the instrument lights come on. The other fob that would start the truck in emergency procedure would not work at ALL. For those that think its the batteries its NOT it was the first thing I changed on both fobs. I thought maybe I just have bad fobs I ordered two new ones just as A back up plan. So back to the one fob that would take A program I thought this is great now its running I'll go on A road trip so I jumped in the truck headed to the gas station cause it was low on fuel I fill the tank up jump back in the truck and NOTHING would work the fob was not detected or said wrong fob and of coarse it was the busy time at the station and cars behind me wanting gas and I couldn't pull away from the pumps. By then my two new fobs were in and programmed them at the same time as the old one. It was A good thing I left those at home and I''ll tell you why in A short while so after I got the transmission in neutral and got help to push it away from the pumps which made people behind me waiting to gas up happier. I called my brother to rescue me took me home to get my spare fobs. Here's were it gets weirder I thought it was just the old fob that was going bad so I returned with the two new fobs jumped in the truck started right up everything hunky dory Right well when I got back home to assess what happened I tried the new fobs neither worked they got I want to say erased but undetectable. FYI this has gone on over several weeks so most people I talk to had me convinced the RF hub was bad Replaced it same exact problem few more days and thought maybe just maybe the the push button was bad so I replaced it same problem. This is what I know so far I've tried several different scenarios and this is how it fails mind you I had to erase and reprogram the fobs to check it out. I started the truck drove it up and down my driveway still worked I drove down the road and back still worked FYI I'm going by the message on the dash that when the fob quits it will say fob not in vehicle or fob not detected. Drove several times didn't quit only until I stopped opened the door no message and closed the door then the message popped up. I did it with all three fobs same thing and did it with drivers door or passengers door either one and yes i left the truck running because it will stay running if the fob is in the vehicle or not.

That's My Story I'm Sticking to it.
Any Thoughts?

I need more line breaks to read that essay.

Think of it like this, every time you start a new point or part of the discussion, try leaving a space.

Some of us older guys need a bit of cooperation and assistance to read large volume posts.

See how I leave breaks periodically?

Thank you in advance for your consideration.

.

 

[RamTek]

I
see
what
your
saying
I'm
An
old
Guy
Also
I'm
Practicing
Now.
It took me over an hour to write that so glad to be finished and click on post it I didn't think how it looked.

I'll do better next time.

 

[RamDiver]

It took me over an hour to write that so glad to be finished and click on post it I didn't think how it looked.

That's quite apparent that you didn't consider those trying to read your post. There's nothing stopping you from editing the original post.

I can almost guarantee that it will be read by more members if it doesn't appear as a massive block. That's your prerogative to leave it.

Best of luck.

.

 

[Highway]

I order my keyfobs from this place and have good luck
https://www.carandtruckremotes.com/

 

[RamTek]

Thanks I'll check it out.

 

[tbowers391]

Well after putting it off and fooling with on line keys i finally called the dealer.... 2013..and ONLY 2013 with the push button start proximity keyfob take a special fob..that are not the same as the 2014 and up 4th gen trucks..or so they say. I have one on order since the dealer doesnt even stock it anymore and when it in we'll see if it does the job.

How did this workout?

Same exact problem with mine. 4 fobs all fail after 1 single drive.

I got these codes in Rf hub, and after clearing them they wouldn’t show again until I hit a fob button again. And new code for each new fob I tried.


This last time I sat in truck a bit and all my dash finally shut down. I tried new fob again just for giggles and my gauges lit back up after pressing fob button.

It’s weird. Exactly as others said, worked perfectly programming and I kept checking it as I was home over the next couple hours and kept hearing horn beep when I locked doors. First drive to grocery store, wouldn’t lock or do anything after I shut it down when I got there.

(My other codes for ECM/PCM and TCM went away and stayed away after clearing. I just did a cam/lifter swap, and then a bad battery just after lol. So a lot was unhooked during that, I think they were from then)

 

[Smoothride]

My problem is my aphaobd app does not complete the programming of an Amazon “OEM” 4 button fob for my 2014 RAM 1500 Sport (with push to start ignition) when interfacing with ObdLink. Based on ObdLink chatter on the 2 inside indicator lights, communication with hub appears normal, but I am wondering if hub is talking to the key fob. How could that be tested? New battery, btw.

 

[ryanjoshua57]

NEED HELP

1st Video : Chafed Wires connected to WIN Module

2nd Video : What my key fob currently does after losing its programming / connection to the truck

2013 Ram 1500 Sport 5.7 equipped with the Push to Start Button Ignition, I started experiencing odd key fob issues that were not common, or at this point never even heard of. For an example I can not get my truck to start without pressing the key fob into the Push to Start button itself otherwise it would ding and say “Key Fob Not Detected” or now “Wrong Key Fob”. Ive tried to order and program other keys an that did not work, So I sent it to dodge to get the RFHub replaced and ordered with a new set of keys, It was all programmed and the tech said the keys work fine after programming (lock, unlock, panic, starting the truck. The Key fob would work like normal and start the truck until he would take it out for a test drive and come back it would then say Key Fob Not Detected or Wrong Key Fob and loses all connection / programming it literally just had to the truck. The Techs have been stuck on this for about 3 months now and they still have my truck and cannot figure it out, Got tired of playing back n forth on the phone and decided to go up there to my truck to look at it myself and found a few chafed wires that are running to the connector of the WIN (Ignition) Module. Would this have anything to do with my key fob just repeatedly losing its connection / programming to the truck? After the key bogs out after programming when I try to hit any of the buttons on the key it wont do anything BUT my speedometer lights will light up like it recognizes it has a key but wont do anything.

The Tech said he can get a key programmed like normal but once its started and driven the first time itll lose its connection magically he also tested my antennas and they were okay and also my WIN Module itself and the voltage was good BUT not to mention the tech DID NOT look at the wires i just mentioned UNTIL i pointed them out to him when i was there, and im worried and thinking that those chafed wires may have something to do with my key repeatedly losing connection and not staying programmed to the truck. Has anybody had a similar problem or the same? I need real bad help!!!

 

[metalchewy]

FWIW

This is the alfaobd process I used to program proximity Fobiks for the wife's challenger. For completely wireless trucks without a turnkey, you may need to modify a bit.

1. Connect obd dongle, and press the button to run without starting the engine, open alfaobd, connect to RFH, scroll down for pin code, write down.
2. Backup your configuration in Alfa.
3. Pry off the keyless enter n go button, and you will find a keyhole, insert the new key, (you will see a red dot on the dashboard flashing, cuz the key is not registered) and switch it to the run position.
4. Find add or replace fobik from RFH menu in alfaobd, enter the code written down and click start. If it is successful, the red dot on the dashboard vanished and the beeping stopped.
5. Connect to central lock module in alfaobd, click replace PEM and enter the code written down.
6. Turn key to Off and remove. Reinstall push button.
7. Take original key in the house so it doesn't sense that key in the 3-6 ft range of the proximity sensors.
8. Start and run around the block, With the new key. Park and turn it off.
9. Put in on position and backup configuration in alfaobd.
10. Turn everything off and start and drive normally with your new fob...

Edit: also, buy OEM keys. The cheep Chinese reproduction fobs on Amazon is just that. Chinesium doesn't work like the OEM Fobs. They don't last, and wear out within 6 months. OEM will last.

 

[etbrown4]

It seems that most Rams in this thread are about 10 years old so the following may or may not apply.

For 2019 to current year 1500s, our forum member Jimmy07 is the fob programming guru. He uses Jscan and a specific fob. I tried his approach and it worked the first try. $120.

Perhaps jimmy07 can weigh in and make some suggestions on years prior to 2019.