Nitrous

[california]

Dont know much about nitrous but im interested and might go that route on my next mods

So how does nitrous work?
What nitroous could i use to be on the save side?
Ive heard you could wire with wot . And also with just a switch is that true which is safer

How do i know which one i need?
Universal? What. Brand

A little guide would be nice before i pull the trigger want to know more about it and how it works

Does it need a tune as well????

 

[Treburkulosis]

Message me and I will help you.

 

[Pull Ya]

Matt at Moe's Performance can probably answer some of your questions.
Jay

 

[shane1981]

I have some knowledge on this subject and will help the best I can I'm on a 100 shot now .

tuned by Jay Greene

 

[BigSloth]

Nitrous info

That should cover most of your questions.

 

[Hemi450hp]

Nitrous is very fun, and an easy way to add cheap HP. The Nitrous Outlet kits that we us some with both a WOT switch that is triggered by the gas pedal and a manual toggle switch to activate the nitrous. You do not want to spray unless you are at WOT, so you position the switch under your gas pedal so that it only triggers when the pedal hits the floor. This means that even if you accidentally have your nitrous arming toggle switch on, it will not spray the nitrous until you are at WOT as well. Both switches have to be on for it to spray.

I prefer the Nitrous Outlet plate kit as it is the most direct shot of nitrous aside from going with a metal intake and direct port system. This kit comes with the bottle, nitrous and fuel solenoids, all nitrous and fuel braided hoses, jets for a 50-100-150-200 shot, relay, fuel rail adapter, and bottle mounting bracket.

I would also add the stage 2 accessory pack which will include the bottle heater, nitrous gauge, purge kit, and a blow down tube. The heater and gauge are needed to ensure that you have the proper bottle pressure before activating your nitrous.

I highly recommend an air.fuel gauge as well if you dont already have one. This is the only way to safely choose the correct nitrous and fuel jets for your application. You do want to pull some timing in the tune for the nitrous depending on what size shot you run, and you also want to run 1 step colder spark plugs for anything between a 100-200 shot of nitrous.

 

[california]

Nitrous is very fun, and an easy way to add cheap HP. The Nitrous Outlet kits that we us some with both a WOT switch that is triggered by the gas pedal and a manual toggle switch to activate the nitrous. You do not want to spray unless you are at WOT, so you position the switch under your gas pedal so that it only triggers when the pedal hits the floor. This means that even if you accidentally have your nitrous arming toggle switch on, it will not spray the nitrous until you are at WOT as well. Both switches have to be on for it to spray.

I prefer the Nitrous Outlet plate kit as it is the most direct shot of nitrous aside from going with a metal intake and direct port system. This kit comes with the bottle, nitrous and fuel solenoids, all nitrous and fuel braided hoses, jets for a 50-100-150-200 shot, relay, fuel rail adapter, and bottle mounting bracket.

I would also add the stage 2 accessory pack which will include the bottle heater, nitrous gauge, purge kit, and a blow down tube. The heater and gauge are needed to ensure that you have the proper bottle pressure before activating your nitrous.

I highly recommend an air.fuel gauge as well if you dont already have one. This is the only way to safely choose the correct nitrous and fuel jets for your application. You do want to pull some timing in the tune for the nitrous depending on what size shot you run, and you also want to run 1 step colder spark plugs for anything between a 100-200 shot of nitrous.

Great info

What size 80 or 85mm plate kit? 10 or 15lbs?

Are the ones you got wet or dry systems?

So i cant run the system without the stage 2 pack how about stage1 what the difference between both and is that required it wont work without it????

How is the air to fuel gauge come in play with this setup???

100 shot will be
1step colder plugs what do you mean by that????

Sounds like alot my head is hurting by thinking of nitrous!!!!!!

 

[hemi_loredo03]

Great info

What size 80 or 85mm plate kit? 10 or 15lbs?

Are the ones you got wet or dry systems?

So i cant run the system without the stage 2 pack how about stage1 what the difference between both and is that required it wont work without it????

How is the air to fuel gauge come in play with this setup???

100 shot will be
1step colder plugs what do you mean by that????

Sounds like alot my head is hurting by thinking of nitrous!!!!!!

On the plate kit, go with the 80mm which is the stock size. Go with 85 mm if you have an aftermarket Throttle Body.

A dry system will only spray Nitrous into your intake. A wet system will spray a mix of Nitrous and Fuel into your intake. You will want the wet system, do not go with a dry system.

Yes, you can run the Nitrous with just Stage1, it will work. Stage2 just makes it "safer" on your engine and can help in preventing any issues. The bottle heater in Stage2 does exactly what it sounds like, it will heat the bottle to bring up the bottle pressure. You want to have bottle pressure between 900-1100. Or at least that is what I shot for. The nitrous pressure gauge in the Stage2 tells you your bottle pressure. The purge kit in the Stage2 helps get the nitrous all the way thru the line. Sometimes there could be trapped air in the line, a purge kit helps eliminate any trapped air and it also looks hella cool. The purge is what you almost always see, when someone is purging their nitrous right before a race you see the clouds of nitrous shooting out.

Air Fuel gauge comes into play because the leaner you are the higher risk you run at blowing something up. When running nitrous, it is dangerous to run any A/F higher than high 12s because you can blow up some piston rings and cause major damage to your engine. Without the Air Fuel gauge you have no idea if you are running too lean or too rich.

One step colder plug means that the plugs will not run as hot as the stock plugs. Almost everyone runs the 4306 NGK cooper plugs. Those are one step colder than the stock plugs.

 

[Joji91]

Great info here. I always wonder about Nos too. Sounds pretty straight forward if you have the stage 2 kit.

 

[Hemi450hp]

Great info

What size 80 or 85mm plate kit? 10 or 15lbs?

Are the ones you got wet or dry systems?

So i cant run the system without the stage 2 pack how about stage1 what the difference between both and is that required it wont work without it????

How is the air to fuel gauge come in play with this setup???

100 shot will be
1step colder plugs what do you mean by that????

Sounds like alot my head is hurting by thinking of nitrous!!!!!!

Mike Laredo touched on a few of your questions, butI am goingto add a little as well.

With a ported throttle body, I would go with the 85mm plate kit. I prefer a 10lb bottle myself as it heats up quicker than a 15lb, and it is lighter.

The kits we sell for these trucks are wet kits. Our stock fuel systems are not strong enough to deliver enough fuel to run more than about a dry 50 shot without causing the motor to go lean. You want a wet kit.

The difference between the stage 1 accessory kit and the stage 2 accessory kit is the purge kit that is included with the stage 2. A purge kit allows yo to blow any air out of the nitrous line before you race so that you are getting a clean shot of nitrous. It can also be used to help regulate bottle pressure. If you are tuned to run at a bottle pressure of 900psi, but your bottle is at 1000psi, simple hold the purge button to clear any air out of the line and lower your bottle pressure at the same time.

The air/fuel gauge simply helps you ensure that you are running the correct nitrous to fuel mixture. You can adjust nitrous and fuel jets in only 2 minutes to take you from stock hp to 200hp. It is very important that you run the correct size nitrous and fuel jets to keep your air/fuel ratio in the 11.5-12.5 range. Without having an air/fuel gauge, you would just have to take a guess that you chose the right jets and hope for the best.

With nitrous, you want to run a spark plug that is 1 heat range cooler. The 3rd gen trucks use the NGK 4306 plugs that Mike mentioned, but for your 4th gen motor, you want to run the Denso 3381 plugs. Brisk makes a very nice plug as well, but they are about $10 each and foul out quick when used on the street. The Denso 3381 plugs are only about $3 each.

 

[shane1981]

Also the NGK 7787 is one step colder that's what I'm running they are 5 dollars a piece on amazon and by the way I have a express and my 10 lb bottle fit in the little hole under the back seat it was very close but works

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[california]

On the plate kit, go with the 80mm which is the stock size. Go with 85 mm if you have an aftermarket Throttle Body.

A dry system will only spray Nitrous into your intake. A wet system will spray a mix of Nitrous and Fuel into your intake. You will want the wet system, do not go with a dry system.

Yes, you can run the Nitrous with just Stage1, it will work. Stage2 just makes it "safer" on your engine and can help in preventing any issues. The bottle heater in Stage2 does exactly what it sounds like, it will heat the bottle to bring up the bottle pressure. You want to have bottle pressure between 900-1100. Or at least that is what I shot for. The nitrous pressure gauge in the Stage2 tells you your bottle pressure. The purge kit in the Stage2 helps get the nitrous all the way thru the line. Sometimes there could be trapped air in the line, a purge kit helps eliminate any trapped air and it also looks hella cool. The purge is what you almost always see, when someone is purging their nitrous right before a race you see the clouds of nitrous shooting out.

Air Fuel gauge comes into play because the leaner you are the higher risk you run at blowing something up. When running nitrous, it is dangerous to run any A/F higher than high 12s because you can blow up some piston rings and cause major damage to your engine. Without the Air Fuel gauge you have no idea if you are running too lean or too rich.

One step colder plug means that the plugs will not run as hot as the stock plugs. Almost everyone runs the 4306 NGK cooper plugs. Those are one step colder than the stock plugs.

Great info thanks

 

[HammerHead]

This was recommended to me on the other site. Never tried it and it only goes upto 125 shot but it's another option. If I'm not mistaken you can run a 75 shot without needing to change plugs. I would confirm that with someone more knowledgable. I also read that the colder plugs foul during daily driving; so you would need to swap out the plugs just to run nitrous and then swap back for daily driving. If this is incorrect someone please correct me; was reading that info off the other form. Guy was experimenting with nitrous are had a good thread of his experiences.


ZEX

 

[Hemi450hp]

Most ZEX kits are base model for the guys that only plan to run a very small shot of nitrous. Their solenoids are not near as durable as the ones included in the Nitrous Outlet kits.

And colder plugs do foul quicker, but there is nothing wrong with using them on the street. I know many guys that still get 20k miles out of the colder plugs with no issues, and stock is 30k...not a bad compromise when you consider the amount of power you gain with the nitrous.

 

[HammerHead]

Most ZEX kits are base model for the guys that only plan to run a very small shot of nitrous. Their solenoids are not near as durable as the ones included in the Nitrous Outlet kits.

And colder plugs do foul quicker, but there is nothing wrong with using them on the street. I know many guys that still get 20k miles out of the colder plugs with no issues, and stock is 30k...not a bad compromise when you consider the amount of power you gain with the nitrous.

20k is plenty for me, well over a year of driving. Matt can you recommend the plug for us please?

 

[Hemi450hp]

Denso 3381 is what most guys are using. They are cheap and work well.

 

[HammerHead]

Denso 3381 is what most guys are using. They are cheap and work well.

Matt I didn't realize you had that many nitrous options, that 80mm plate system with the 15lb bottle looks like something to consider. Do you have an automatic valve opener for the bottle?

 

[Hemi450hp]

Matt I didn't realize you had that many nitrous options, that 80mm plate system with the 15lb bottle looks like something to consider. Do you have an automatic valve opener for the bottle?

We stock the Nitrous Outlet plate kits and X series nozzle kits as well as the stage 1 and stage 2 accessory packages. We can get the electric bottle openers, but dont stock them as those are very slow sellers.

 

[california]

Matt I didn't realize you had that many nitrous options, that 80mm plate system with the 15lb bottle looks like something to consider. Do you have an automatic valve opener for the bottle?

What do you mean with automatic valve opener for the bottle???

 

[HammerHead]

What do you mean with automatic valve opener for the bottle???

Automatic valve opener is electronic opener for the bottle from the driver seat. That way if your out cruzing on the street and someone wants to play you can flip the switch and let it rip. Other wise you would need to pull over and open the bottle by hand. I don't think most people would need it but very cool option.