Non-8.4" Radio Swap...Sony XAV9500ES with Dual Zone ATC

[Dissent]

I thought I'd give you all some feedback about my experiment, my non-8.4" radio swap.

I began with a 2013 Ram 1500 Tradesman with the basic radio and Single Zone Manual Temperature Control (MTC). I was intent on converting to Dual Zone Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) and incorporating Prolific Audio's "Ram Truck 2013-2018 OEM 8.4″ Screen Prolific Audio Sony XAV9500ES Full plug and play kit" without any OEM 8.4" radio involvement as I don't have one and preferred the larger 10" screen and aftermarket support the Sony provides.

Here's a link to the Prolific Audio site: https://prolificaudio.com/product/r...-audio-sony-xav9500es-full-plug-and-play-kit/

Here's a link to the Prolific Audio installation video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/NdO6IhC2J6o

I bought a Dual Zone ATC kit from Mike at M2 Mods (https://www.m2mods4ram.com/) which included a custom wiring harness, an 8.4 Dual Zone ATC bezel, an OEM A/C computer and a 7-speed Fan Resistor along with detailed directions. I installed the M2 Mods kit without any issues. I then loaded up AlfaOBD to tell it I was changing from MTC to Dual Zone ATC and everything just worked without any additional configuration. Such an easy conversion, wish I had done that when I first picked up this truck!

I was really impressed with the 3D printed and custom cut ABS pieces in the Prolific kit. Installation was quick, about 40 minutes total following along with the YouTube installation video. Note, the video included CANBUS wiring which I did not require...that part was a little confusing as I wasn't sure how the system could communicate with the truck. When I added the Prolific Audio harness and Sony radio, it just worked.

I was shocked how easy it was. The Mestrao unit included in the Prolific kit plugs into the OEM harness and I plugged 2x wires from it into the Sony (data and phono). No CANBUS interface was required as the install video showed. I’ve no idea actually how it’s pulling data, must be through the OEM radio plug? I'm using the RCA low level outputs to a pair of AudioControl amps.

I didn’t have to do anything with the speed sensors, parking break, CANBUS interface (surprising), or reverse switch. I don’t have a camera connected but the radio tries to activate it when I go into Reverse, just says “no signal” for now. Very slick.

All the A/C controls appear when I touch the dash controls and I can change all the buttons, fan speed, manipulate the mixing doors. There’s actually a “Single” button on the screen that combines my Driver and Passenger Temp Controls and controls them as one. Very nice.

The only thing that doesn’t work is my TPMS which is par for the course with the way the 2013 collects and feeds the info to the OEM computer. I expect 2014-on would work fine.

I'm so very impressed with the way the 10" display fits the dash, it's such a massive improvement over the 1.5" gap the XAV series radios normally exhibit. I'm very glad I went with the ES over the other model, there's some more bells and whistles I'm glad to have in my toolbox. This the 3rd Sony XAV series stereo I have (wife's car and son's car have the others) and I'm always impressed with Sony's product line.

Bottom line is if anyone asks, this configuration worked flawlessly and note that I've never had an 8.4" radio, just the basic radio.

Here's some pics. The first couple are the unit head on and from the driver's perspective. The third is the side, looking at the form fitting adapter behind the Sony display. The last pic is same side, just from the driver's knee area to show the fit on the bottom.

FYI the hole in the dahs is for my missing 8-speed shifter, it's stashed somewhere safe...where I can't find it. I'm still using the 6-speed with the column shifter. Just waiting for cool weather again to do the 8-speed swap!

Dave

 

[wutech]

quite a bit of work to get this installed, I watched the Prolific video and was amazed he opened the Sony box and immediately started taking it all apart. Once it was done it all makes sense, but how did you feel about opening a box and having to disassemble it right away? Did you know prior to your purchase that you would have to do these modifications to the Sony unit? or was it surprise when you got it and opened the box?

 

[Dissent]

It wasn't too bad. I did know I'd have to take it apart in advance having watched their video, I have all the leftover parts in case I have any issues and have to have it serviced. There are no warranty stickers to break, surprisingly, so I can reassemble it back to OEM if needed. I was very comfortable with the disassembly. I have a Lexus LX450 (Toyota LandCruiser) that needs a remote-display radio solution and was going Pioneer until I came across their disassembly video. I actually bought a spare ribbon cable to buy another radio to mount in my LX450. I installed a satellite dish mount outfitted with Ram ball mounts to hold my tablet, GPS, engine monitor, radios, etc. and it blocked my single DIN radio. Since I do everything through the tablet, I can reach the volume knob so it was fine. Lately, that old Pioneer has been refusing to power on and/or output sound so their video was very timely. Below is a pic of the tree from last year when I was running 2x 8" Android tablets. After hearing the audio quality of the 9500ES, I'm done with the crap Chinese Bluetooth adapters and the finicky tablet. I'll still run a 2nd tablet for my offroad maps but that 10" screen is just begging to be mounted on that tree and the ribbon cable solution is absolute perfection. No distracting lights in the dash and no buttons to deal with.



Back to the Ram...I actually had an XAVAX8500 sitting in the garage that didn't fit my wife's RX300. I was really disappointed how bad it looked with a 1.75" gap between the display and the dash. I spoke with the guys over at Prolific, told them I already had a Sony radio and told them my intentions. They said "let us know how it goes!" and didn't know if it would work without having an existing 8.4" radio. I did have to purchase the XAV9500ES through them since they sell it as a kit and make a little money on the radio. That was fine by me and wasn't a big deal because I preferred the 9500 ES radio so I just returned the 8500 to Crutchfield.

 

[Dissent]

I've attached pics of the Sony radio Climate layout. You don't get a 4 picture selection to determine dash, floor, defroster, etc. but when you push the single button, it cycles through all the positions.

 

[Dissent]

Additionally, there's a gauge display the Sony offers, pulling from CANBUS and ODBC-II (optional). You can also customize the gauges to your personal preferences.

 

[Dissent]

There's some additional details starting at post #404 on this thread: https://www.ramforum.com/threads/di...e-hvac-conversion.135601/page-21#post-3015159

 

[rjbar46]

@Dissent,
Great info and write-up! Thanks for posting!

I am considering doing this exact swap in my 2018, I have the 8.4 Alpine and under seat subwoofer & Nav . I don't use the nav since it a pita!.
I have a question, how much does this unit stick out over the AC vents and does it interrupt the airflow? your pictures make it hard to tell (not that your pictures are bad) they just don't make it clear.
It's only been a few weeks since your post, has you opinion changed?
Now for the more technical questions.
Do you have any amps installed?
I see the unit is only putting out 55 watts, my one big complaint about the stock unit is it's not loud enough! I need some help with how put an amp in for sub woofer at least, i have been all over these forums and cant seem to locate some one who has installed one that has GOOD instructions on the "how to" aspect of that job.
Anyway, I would appreciate any/all comments/help anyone is willing to provide.
Thank you everyone in advance.

 

[Dissent]

Sorry to leave you hanging @rjbar46, I just saw your post.

Yes, I do have 2 amps installed. I have an AudioControl D-4.800 running Morel Tempo Ultra 692 MKII components up front and Morel Tempo Ultra Integra 692 MKIIs in the rear. Each of these get 150W RMS at 4 ohms. Additionally, I have an AudioControl LC-1.800 running a JL Audio 12W3v3-4 subwoofer in a Fox Acoustics ported box (1.85 cu ft volume). The sub receives 500W RMS at 4 ohms.

The head unit hangs out about 3/4" over the vents but doesn't disrupt the airflow on their respective sides. It does cause some issue trying to direct the air to the middle of the rear seat. I also can't turn the middle passenger vent towards the driver but I don't recall if I could before though. The AC works so well it's not an issue for either of those situations. I do pre-cool the car with remote start 90% of the time.

Yes, I am very happy with the setup now that I've had time to work with the DSP in the head unit and primary amp. I listen to a lot of EDM and it sounds great. Some people have said the AudioControl doesn't hit as hard as other amps but I find it very satisfactory. If I crank it above 60% it vibrates everything and puts a lot of pressure on my ears so it's perfect for me. If I had to do it over again, I might consider the 2 ohm version of the sub to go from 500W RMS to 800W RMS but the drawback is the amp would run harder. Both amps are barely warm at high volume.

The Morel's don't technically fit in the front doors. I had to 3D print 6mm worth of spacers and then the surround was hitting the door panel. I remedied this buy cutting the door panel, 3D printing a 6x9 honecomb grill (matches the door panel insert) and glued it on with CA glue with the catalyst spray. It's holding nicely, looks pretty factory and accommodates the woofer. In hind sight, I would consider a speaker that fit better or go with the 6" components. The speakers sound amazing, go down to 50hz and sound amazing without the sub. I had the sub out for a week while I was wiring in my passive entry harness and was amazed how great the 6x9's sounded. If I had to do it over again, I may have skipped the sub and evaluated the 6x9's alone for a few months.

The front tweeters needed some coaxing to fit the dash openings. I should have created and 3D printed some brackets but I was in a rush so I gutted the OEM dash speaker and secured the Morel tweeter where the OEM voice coils were and secured them with some perforated metal strapping. I may go back and clean these up one day.

The only complaint I have about the Sony, or rather Android Auto in general, is that if I remote start it, I have to press "Home", "Settings", "Devices" and then select my phone. Now if I'm near the truck, it just grabs the phone without issue every time.

I mounted the amps under the seats, the driver's amp is a bit too far back for my taste (rear foot clearance issues) but I may move them to a custom amp rack on the rear wall when it cools off. I've routed my 6x channel RCA's to the rear wall then doubled back to the driver's seat so that I can move it later on.

I used a Crutchfield 4AWG amp install kit. The fuse was mounted up on the firewall by the driver's hood hinge and the power cable routes cleanly from the battery, along the fender to the fuse then curves gently down the firewall to the clutch pedal blockoff plate where it penetrates in a waterproof gland, runs along the drivers side to under the seat where I have positive and negative distribution blocks mounted to a sheet of ABS with the 4 channel amp. The clutch block plate was super easy to install the gland on but there are 1.5" bolts with nylon nuts that took my daughter about 15 minutes to get off and another 15 to get back on. Easiest firewall penetration I've ever done, especially compared to the RX300 I did last month.

If I had to do it over again, I would have looked harder at the JL Audio DSP amps. I've heard the software is a little more friendly. Either way, with DSP amps, you will need a Windows laptop to tweak everything, there's no knobs on these amps.

If you do mount the amps under the seat and you have the 60/40 split bench seat, you can do the driver without any issue, just remove the seat bolts and tilt it forward. If you run wires over the hump to the passenger seat, I highly recommend unbolting the middle/passenger seat and removing them, it's way too tight to run under the jump seat cleanly. I did some initial runs then yanked the seats and cleaned up the wiring when I installed my antenna for the passive entry (under the jump seat).

Hope that helps a bit, let me know if you have any other questions!