Oil for the 5.7 e-torque?

[Thorbeast]

Hey everyone, so I've owned a 2016 Ram 2500 6.4 for a little over 6 years and I love it. I use redline oil in it as per recommendations on here. I just bought a 2021 Ram 1500 Rebel 5.7 e-torque and wanted to see what the recommended oil is for it on here? Is redline still the go to? Amsoil? Stick to regular Mobil 1? Thanks in advance!

 

[Burla]

Redline 5w30 a top choice and still king against hemi tick, HPL is the newest craze on the board and is the best oil on paper and many offerings HPL SC 0w30 is their flagship their answer to redline 5w30, and if you want to stay with m1 then esp 0w30 is an incredible formula along with a couple other euro 0w30's, The answer is completely different for the hurricane engine, but since your still in a hemi same oils dominate. However, the API specs sp (whatever the newest one is) and I think sq are where the stupid comes into play as the go thin. The 0w30's are the way to go and it has to be euro and avoid sp if you can.

 

[Rlaf75]

According to the owners manual for my 21 BTS 5.7 non-etorque, 5-20 conventional oil is recommended. There is no mention of synthetic. However, I've been using 5-20 synthetic but just switched to 5-30 synthetic when I changed the oil last weekend.

 

[Thorbeast]

Redline 5w30 a top choice and still king against hemi tick, HPL is the newest craze on the board and is the best oil on paper and many offerings HPL SC 0w30 is their flagship their answer to redline 5w30, and if you want to stay with m1 then esp 0w30 is an incredible formula along with a couple other euro 0w30's, The answer is completely different for the hurricane engine, but since your still in a hemi same oils dominate. However, the API specs sp (whatever the newest one is) and I think sq are where the stupid comes into play as the go thin. The 0w30's are the way to go and it has to be euro and avoid sp if you can.

Thank you for your input man! I definitely want to go with whatever the best choice for it. Being able to get Mobil 1 locally would be convenient but if redline is still best then that's what I'll use

 

[Adamcr68]

Thank you for your input man! I definitely want to go with whatever the best choice for it. Being able to get Mobil 1 locally would be convenient but if redline is still best then that's what I'll use

@Burla is my go-to for oil & filters, he gave me solid advice years ago about a oil additive I had posted about using, provided the information why it wasn’t good for our engines.
I switched to RL5/30 & the RP20-580 filter, that combination has served me well for 50k, no plans on changing it.
I do 5k oci’s and should mention some members have posted the larger filter won’t fit on their truck.

 

[Burla]

20-820 is the large, 20-500 is the large long one, and 10-48 is the short spec filter. We expected RP filters to go out of business for a decade, it looks like they finally did. The clone filter is fram endurance fe2, can be bought at Walmart.com. That's the large filter clone to the 20-820. Filters are a pretty important aspect to an oil change.

 

[Burla]

I dont know if e-torque has the same spec as the non e-torque, double check that. If so fe2 is the best oil filter I can figure, sooo close to the 20-820.

 

[Grams]

MS-6395 is the specific requirement for these engines, per the Owner’s Manuals. You might be surprised to know that SOME favorite oils in these forums do NOT meet that specification. (Ex: MObil 1 does not)

Th Owner’s Manuals are also specific about insisting upon viscosities …and the Surprisingly 5W30 …which also Must Meet MS-6395 …is only allowed (not recommended…only allowed) IF 5W20 is not available.

I’m only the messenger. Don’t shoot. It’s yours so you get to do what you want. But I read a lot of threads where the owner has done something else …and are also complainers about “ tick” etc.

 

[Thorbeast]

20-820 is the large, 20-500 is the large long one, and 10-48 is the short spec filter. We expected RP filters to go out of business for a decade, it looks like they finally did. The clone filter is fram endurance fe2, can be bought at Walmart.com. That's the large filter clone to the 20-820. Filters are a pretty important aspect to an oil change.

Might be wrong on this but from memory that's the same filter for the 6.4l in my 2500 isn't it?

 

[Burla]

Might be wrong on this but from memory that's the same filter for the 6.4l in my 2500 isn't it?

I don't know, looks like FE10060 which is different from fe2, ask hemimann aka brian,. Glad you asked sorry about that.

@HEMIMANN

.

 

[Burla]

MS-6395 is the specific requirement for these engines, per the Owner’s Manuals. You might be surprised to know that SOME favorite oils in these forums do NOT meet that specification. (Ex: MObil 1 does not)

Th Owner’s Manuals are also specific about insisting upon viscosities …and the Surprisingly 5W30 …which also Must Meet MS-6395 …is only allowed (not recommended…only allowed) IF 5W20 is not available.

I’m only the messenger. Don’t shoot. It’s yours so you get to do what you want. But I read a lot of threads where the owner has done something else …and are also complainers about “ tick” etc.

ms-6395 sn+ is different then the current ms-6395 SP. The requirements didn't change they just accepted SP which is in conflict with their stay in grade requirements, whereas sn+ 0w30's are 25% thicker, meaning chances are the will stay in grade much easier then any SP RC oil, regardless of the less dominate specs such as ms-6395. So the same dominate spec sn+ was ms-6395 the entire time, the current ms-6395 spec accepted SP, which is a horrible spec made for di Turbo's and govt goals. Ms6395 never changed, only the accompanying spec has. So sn+ has always been ms-6395 approved, and more specifically is better for older engines like the hemi.

 

[Grams]

ms-6395 sn+ is different then the current ms-6395 SP. The requirements didn't change they just accepted SP which is in conflict with their stay in grade requirements, whereas sn+ 0w30's are 25% thicker, meaning chances are the will stay in grade much easier then any SP RC oil, regardless of the less dominate specs such as ms-6395. So the same dominate spec sn+ was ms-6395 the entire time, the current ms-6395 spec accepted SP, which is a horrible spec made for di Turbo's and govt goals. Ms6395 never changed, only the accompanying spec has. So sn+ has always been ms-6395 approved, and more specifically is better for older engines like the hemi.

Actually, 5W20 oils stay in-grade better/longer than 5W30 does. (BITOG and LakeSpeed both agree on that)

 

[mikeru]

Actually, 5W20 oils stay in-grade better/longer than 5W30 does. (BITOG and LakeSpeed both agree on that)

That's true, but as Lake also said, even when 5w 30 falls below grade, it's still above the spec'd 50 or 5w 20 oil. So when 5w 20 falls out of grade it's too thin to protect properly, but 5w-30 still has a high enough viscosity to protect an engine spec'd for 5w 20.

 

[Burla]

Yes 5w20 stays in grade better then 5w30 but the grade itself is 25% thinner, but for similar reasons as in the swing between winter rating and weight, 5w30's have traditionally stayed in grade better then 0w30's. However, most 0w30's don't have the SP spec but rather the old sn+ and are 3 points thicker. Some 0w30's carry SP spec, so look at those visc compared to 0w30 euro's which never went to SP. An example would be compare esp or fs m1 0w30 versus even generic 5w30 m1 or any of their 5w30's. The euro is pao based visc 12 versus generic m1 5w30 is mineral based 10.8 visc, the generic m1 is SP and SN+ and SN, whereas the euro ditches the SP.

So as said before sn+ and SP both were ms-6395 but when they accepted SP it is an infection, a lesser product that is less beneficial to the hemi because of "climate change". There is no scenario where anyone is going to say that 5w30 is a better quality oil for a hemi then the sn+ esp euro 0w30, it is thicker and higher quality base oils and the only reason it doesn't read ms-6395 is because the oil manu's said SP is backwards compatible, but ms-6395 didn't change, only the accompanying spec that like an infection is bad for it's host. Just the facts, if you would like use SP in your hemi, but if someone is asking for the best oil for this older v8 engine, SP and future specs like SQ ain't it as long as they still have oils that are sn+ which was always ms-6395.

It is SP and now SQ is a march to thinner oils, people still have an option to chose by accompanying specs.

.

 

[Thorbeast]

The amount of knowledge you have @Burla is wild!

So forgive me, but essentially if I go with either 5w20 or 5w30 redline then I'm good? There's a LOT of technical specs being said here

 

[Adamcr68]

20-820 is the large, 20-500 is the large long one, and 10-48 is the short spec filter. We expected RP filters to go out of business for a decade, it looks like they finally did. The clone filter is fram endurance fe2, can be bought at Walmart.com. That's the large filter clone to the 20-820. Filters are a pretty important aspect to an oil change.

Looks like I’ll be switching filters, hopefully the Fram will be easier to find, cheaper wouldn’t hurt either.

 

[Burla]

The amount of knowledge you have @Burla is wild!

So forgive me, but essentially if I go with either 5w20 or 5w30 redline then I'm good? There's a LOT of technical specs being said here

The argument for 5w20 redline to 5w30 redline would take a couple pages anyhow, just from the RAM forum members results against hemi tick. Of note, the first time I killed my own tick which means the first success we had recorded from an oil strategy was on 5w20 redline, but then as we went through the field of Rams it was hit and miss, but 5w30 was more hit then miss. The oil pump is an equalizer, it pushes oil similar to a water wheel, as long as the water basket is full, it pushes the same amount of oil no matter what the weight, especially at operating temps. The real world RAM forum to a man proves 5w30 gains you around 2psi over 5w20 redline, it was the forum that convinced me to abandon 5w30 redline for more then a couple reasons that even included off brand vehicles and my own testing. Again we are talking pages of typing but trust it. The one knock on 5w30 redline has been in cold places getting cold piston slap not related to hemi tick. In those trucks 0w30 redline was a much better choice.

Ask hemimann with his 6/4 I do believe he was on 0w30 redline in a snow state. Since then he is on 0w30 HPL SC that also has a forum discount. Long answer short, eventhough redline has extra protection from other oils, no I wouldn't run 5w20 in a 6.4, but there are options if you developed cold piston slap. 30 weight in a 6.4 is not an issue due to the OEM oil for 6.4 which is pup 0w40, most of every uoa we have it at 10 visc, so as long as you match that (end on interval visc) you are safe. The right 30 weight does better then matching that, as in 5w30 redline usually is still in the 12's but yes sometimes the 11's depending on the shear of any particular engine, still a full point about 0w40 PUP at the end of a run. 0w40 is a very unstable viscosity, so many guys are running stout 30's instead. Of course the other hand would be instead of going down, can you go up to 5w40 or 15w40 in the 6.4. The issue here is start up wear, you will get more start up wear over what they designed to run especially in cold states. So either follow the manu or use something proven to stay in grade similar to manu oils, but don't go picking a shelf 30 weight, something like pup 5w30 which I do like myself in my Toyota, would be a very bad choice in the 6.4, it would be a 20 weight in short order.

 

[Thorbeast]

Got it! But in the 5.7 it's either 5w20 or 5w30 redline?

 

[BigPoet]

I did a deep search using Grok (AI search engine from X.com), on Ram eTorque Hemi maintenance/lubrication and was recommended to use 8 ounces of "Lubegard 40902 Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant" with each oil change.

 

[Docwagon1776]

I did a deep search using Grok (AI search engine from X.com), on Ram eTorque Hemi maintenance/lubrication and was recommended to use 8 ounces of "Lubegard 40902 Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant" with each oil change.

Your "deep search" just trolls Reddit and forums.

Same system that will tell you to walk your car to the gas station if it's less than a mile away and that edible glue is a good idea to keep toppings from sliding around on a pizza.