Parasitic draw fuse 11 IOD

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

elving3

Junior Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2026
Posts
11
Reaction score
0
Location
Alaska
Ram Year
2008
Engine
Hemi 5.7
Hey

Got a parasitic draw in fuse nr 11,
1.7 amps

Pulled out the radio, got it down .5 amps,
Pulled out the cluster, got it down .5 amps more.

So still with these things plugged out (and all the other accessories that goes by fuse 11) I still got a excessive draw around 0.8 amps.

Pulled fuse nr 11 and got down to 0.2 amps.
Pulled all other fuses and still stayed at 0.2 amps.

Any ideas?

Ram 1500 Hemi 5.7, 2008
 

Recoil

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2021
Posts
204
Reaction score
55
Location
Texas
Ram Year
(Sold) 2003
Engine
5.7
.02 amps is acceptable. Have you tracked down what fuse NR 11 powers?
 
OP
OP
E

elving3

Junior Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2026
Posts
11
Reaction score
0
Location
Alaska
Ram Year
2008
Engine
Hemi 5.7
Fuse NR 11 powers:
Radio, Monitor, Data Link Connector, Hands-free Module, Satellite Receiver, Cluster, Sentry Key Remote Entry Module, Underhood Lamp, Wireless Control Module, Electronic Overhead Module

Of these things, what I have on my truck is: Radio, Cluster, Sentry Key..., WCM and Overhead Module.

I have disconnected all of these things. But only the radio and cluster disconnected dropped the amps.
 

Recoil

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2021
Posts
204
Reaction score
55
Location
Texas
Ram Year
(Sold) 2003
Engine
5.7
From what I see, it also powers the Ignition Off Draw. I'm wondering if you have a bad ignition switch that isn't turning everything off when you switch off the key.
 
OP
OP
E

elving3

Junior Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2026
Posts
11
Reaction score
0
Location
Alaska
Ram Year
2008
Engine
Hemi 5.7
Good point, perhaps!

Think I should replace to find out.

But I pulled every cable behind the steering wheel, including the ignition switch and didnt get any lowering in amps though.

Am guessing there is no need to program key fob when replacing ignition switch? Only when replacing immobilizer receiver...?

How much should cluster and radio be pulling with engine off?

With my multimeter I can only read the amps for a few secs without blowing the internal meter fuse. Should you perhaps read the amps a little longer to get a more accurate reading? Does the startup of ECU etc. take more amps in startup?
 

Dean2

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2021
Posts
4,444
Reaction score
8,891
Location
Near Edmonton
Ram Year
2021 2500
Engine
6.4
Most meters will allow you to measure 10 amps without vlowing the fuse. You should be .02 of an amp after everything goes to sleep. If your meter has a 10 amp ability you have something pulling serious power with the key off and you need to find that or get a different meter.
 

Dean2

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2021
Posts
4,444
Reaction score
8,891
Location
Near Edmonton
Ram Year
2021 2500
Engine
6.4
Post I wrote earlier. Hope it helps.

In addition to high temperatures killing batteries prematurely, leaving cars sit and letting the battery drain down then recharge, dramatically shortens battery life, no matter what kind it is.

In order to understand how quick this happens on our heavily computerised cars I thought, I would run the test on my 2015 LS460 SWB AWD. I started with a quality Multimeter that has both DC and AC current(AMP) measuring capacity. You put the black lead into the common port, and the Red lead into the 10A port, may also be labelled just AC/DC A on some meter. Having Alligator clips on the end of the probes will make doing this a whole bunch easier.

I shut off the car, put the key FOB in the house in an RFID box, left the doors unlocked, and lifted the hood. My car does not have a hood open warning light so no hood open sensor that needs to be defeated. I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery, clipped the Red Lead to the battery terminal and the black lead to the Negative cable. I then opened and closed the drivers door. Reading popped to 4.8 amps with the interior lights coming on. Closed the drivers door, reading dropped to 2.7 amps and after about 30 seconds started to steadily drop. Within 90 seconds it was down to .7 amp and still dropping. Within three minutes it was reading between .03 and .04 amps, so 30 to 40 Miliamps.

I had read that the FOB being too close would cause the vehicle to wake up so I went in the house and got the FOB. Even right beside the car, not change in .03-.04 AMPs being drawn. Used the FOB to open the trunk, reading popped up to 6 Amps. Closed the Truck with the auto close system using the button on the trunk lid, reading stayed at 5-6 AMPs. As soon as the trunk latched the AMPs dropped to 2.5 and then kept dropping following the same pattern above. I tried a number of different combinations and permutations, including putting the push button start in the run position without stepping on the brake so the car didn't start. Remember, your multimeter is limited to 10 AMPs, if you start the car, or turn on high draw things like Headlights, you will likely pop the fuse that protects the multimeter.

No matter what combinations I tried, the at rest reading dropped back to the 30 to 40 miliamp reading. The only thing I didn't do that I wish I had done, was lock the doors and see if the at rest reading increased with the security system active. Since I park in a secure garage and never lock the car, I didn't think about that till I had it all buttoned up again.

Since the car sits for long periods of time I have attached a NOCO harness to to the battery terminals to make hooking up the trickle charger much easier. This way I can just plug the trickle charger in without having to remove the clips and lift the battery cover each time to attach alligator clips. I have these quick connects on all my vehicles. Even at only 40 Miliamp, a battery will drop below starting voltage in about a month, if it is stored cold it will go flat faster than that. Remember, lead acid batteries do not like to be discharge down to 11 Volts and recharged. They are much happier and last far longer if kept above 12.3 volts and that means a trickle charger is a good idea if you don't drive your car for at least 30 minutes every 3 or 4 days.

Hope this information helps those of you suffering from batteries going flat or dying prematurely.


3c1cb3957b47ba45b29e068e308-ipo-images-jpg-jpg-jpg.jpg



-jpeg-d92e2d27251cc87d6645591182ecdd53-jpg-jpg-jpg.jpg





b-png-6a373eb095c0e80e46803cc8def7fda0-png-png-png.png








Multimeters have a lot of different layouts, this is just for illustration.




b-png-f7687d176aeb92590495baa1b545713d-png-png-png.png





-jpeg-fee513ba69be9614dfd1b16380b7ce5e-jpg-jpg-jpg.jpg




As a followup, Charged the battery to full, after an hour off the charger, read 12.73. July 2023 OEM Lexus battery. After sitting in the garage un-driven for 8 days, battery now reads 12.45. So the constant drain, even though very small, definitely draws down the battery over time. Battery went from 100% to 80% in 8 days. Still lots of juice to start the car. Left parked with no trickle charger, and assuming an even rate of drain the battery will be down to 50% in another 12 or so days.

At 12 Volts it is still enough to start the car but this is NOT what lead acid batteries like and will materially decrease its service life. If you aren't driving the car regularly your battery will last far longer if you put it on a .75 AMP to 2 AMP smart trickle charger like a Noco. The other option is to disconnect the negative battery during storage, but I find it a lot easier just to leave it on the trickle charger.


You can use the quick connect cable on the jump start terminals as well, they don't have to go on the battery itself. The reason I put them on mine was so I don't have to remove any of the under hood covers or the battery cover to hook up alligator clips each time I wanted to put the trickle charger on. On my LS you can't reach the battery terminals without opening the battery cover by the windshield.

Here is a picture of the LS460 Battery location. The panel with the Yellow sticker has to be removed at min to get alligator clips onto the battery.


-jpeg-2916d96083b598aa54f0f27e1412dc42-jpg-jpg-jpg.jpg



-jpeg-3404b27c924ec2dadbafc521c6cf2a3b-jpg-jpg-jpg.jpg



-jpeg-082e47caa5589a78e4ea33687e1754e9-jpg-jpg-jpg.jpg



4_f498888c7170f9819aee8bc0900cbf93ab9f07ee-jpg-jpg.jpg





7_6cc78f02033c4dabc4d9e9bb1d362e902a27b4fa-jpg-jpg.jpg
 

Recoil

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2021
Posts
204
Reaction score
55
Location
Texas
Ram Year
(Sold) 2003
Engine
5.7
Good point, perhaps!

Think I should replace to find out.

But I pulled every cable behind the steering wheel, including the ignition switch and didnt get any lowering in amps though.

Am guessing there is no need to program key fob when replacing ignition switch? Only when replacing immobilizer receiver...?

How much should cluster and radio be pulling with engine off?

With my multimeter I can only read the amps for a few secs without blowing the internal meter fuse. Should you perhaps read the amps a little longer to get a more accurate reading? Does the startup of ECU etc. take more amps in startup?
If you can only read 10 amps for a few seconds without blowing the fuse, you have a serious draw somewhere. How are you hooking this up? Remember to keep the doors shut or tape down the actuators for the driver's door to avoid pulling amps for interior lighting and waking up the vehicle when opening the door.
 
OP
OP
E

elving3

Junior Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2026
Posts
11
Reaction score
0
Location
Alaska
Ram Year
2008
Engine
Hemi 5.7
Appreciate you taking the time to explain this. Very good information.

I have done my troubleshooting similarily to yours. Also put the key fob a good distance from the car. The only thing that I did differently was with the multimeter. The meter I have, a cheap one, says it can only read up to 10 amps for 10 sec. So I only read the amps for a few sec then disconnected the leads so as not to overload the meter fuse, so I thought.

I "only" get 2 amps with everything off. So perhaps the meter could survive reading the amps for a few minutes and try leaving the meter hooked for a few minutes and watch the readings. From the reading of these 2 amps, the reading instantly jumps up to 4,5,6 amps when opening a door or turning something on, as it did for you.

Am gonna try reading the amps for a few minutes to see if the amps stabilizes.
 
OP
OP
E

elving3

Junior Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2026
Posts
11
Reaction score
0
Location
Alaska
Ram Year
2008
Engine
Hemi 5.7
If you can only read 10 amps for a few seconds without blowing the fuse, you have a serious draw somewhere. How are you hooking this up? Remember to keep the doors shut or tape down the actuators for the driver's door to avoid pulling amps for interior lighting and waking up the vehicle when opening the door.
Sorry if I was unclear, the multimeter is 10 A fused and it says that you should only read higher amps for max 10 sec to not blow the internal fuse.

Am I understanding correctly that the right way to measure amps is to leave the multimeter attached for a few minutes?
 

Dean2

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2021
Posts
4,444
Reaction score
8,891
Location
Near Edmonton
Ram Year
2021 2500
Engine
6.4
Sorry if I was unclear, the multimeter is 10 A fused and it says that you should only read higher amps for max 10 sec to not blow the internal fuse.

Am I understanding correctly that the right way to measure amps is to leave the multimeter attached for a few minutes?
Yes leave it attached even for hours. As long as you didn’t hit or exceed 10 amps you should not blow the fuse ever.

As far as drawing battery to 80%, you don't want to do that regularly, which is why I keep a 1 amp noco smart charger on vehicles not in use. You need to do that or remove the negative cable so the battery stays close to 100%
 

RamDiver

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2022
Posts
5,720
Reaction score
12,072
Location
Marlborough, Ontario Canada
Ram Year
2021 DS
Engine
Hemi 5.7
20250417_121641.jpg


Call me lazy but I just can't be bothered installing an ammeter in series with the battery, when a DC Clamp meter is so inexpensive.

I bought this on sale from Amazon dot ca for less than $40. I believe they're less at Amazon dot com.

.
 
OP
OP
E

elving3

Junior Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2026
Posts
11
Reaction score
0
Location
Alaska
Ram Year
2008
Engine
Hemi 5.7
View attachment 585990


Call me lazy but I just can't be bothered installing an ammeter in series with the battery, when a DC Clamp meter is so inexpensive.

I bought this on sale from Amazon dot ca for less than $40. I believe they're less at Amazon dot com.

.
Yeah I was thinking of getting a clamp meter. How's the accuracy on that one?
 

Dean2

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2021
Posts
4,444
Reaction score
8,891
Location
Near Edmonton
Ram Year
2021 2500
Engine
6.4
Clamp on meters are handy but most are not accurate to .02 amp so make sure you check that before buying. Most of the cheap ones only claim accuracy to .5 to 1 amp. I have one that is accurate to .02 but it was a lot more than 40 bucks.

If the readings are inly accurate to .5 it isn't really telling you what is going on. Also, make sure it reads DC amps, many of the cheaper ones are only set to read AC amps. The good thing about clamp ons is they usually read to 1000 amps so they work good for diagnosing starters, alternators and other high draw applications.
 
Last edited:

RamDiver

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2022
Posts
5,720
Reaction score
12,072
Location
Marlborough, Ontario Canada
Ram Year
2021 DS
Engine
Hemi 5.7
Yeah I was thinking of getting a clamp meter. How's the accuracy on that one?


Clamp on meters are handy but most are not accurate to .02 amp so make sure you check that before buying. Most of the cheap ones only claim accuracy to .5 to 1 amp. I have one that is accurate to .02 but it was a lot more than 40 bucks.

If the readings are inly accurate to .5 it isn't really telling you what is going on. Also, make sure it reads DC amps, many of the cheaper ones are only set to read AC amps. The good thing about clamp ons is they usually read to 1000 amps so they work good for diagnosing starters, alternators and other high draw applications.

This unit far surpasses the requirements, AFAIC.

The spec'd resolution for the clamp meter I bought is 10 mA with the accuracy at +/-2.5% @5, according to the manufacturer.
When set to the 60A scale, you get two decimal places visible or 10 mA.
Most parasitic current draw issues I've come across have been much higher than 10 mA.


DC Clamp meter specs.jpg


I'm confident that much better clamp meters are available for more money, but I'm very satisfied with this unit. I have an old 'made in USA' by Amprobe AC Clamp meter, but as you say, it likely cost much more. And this one only measures AC amps.

I remember using a VOM in series with the battery in the old days. It was a PITA back then, too, but not having to deal with proximity sensing and sleep modes was a bonus.

.
 
Last edited:

Recoil

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2021
Posts
204
Reaction score
55
Location
Texas
Ram Year
(Sold) 2003
Engine
5.7
You need to take the time to do it right. Set your meter to amps, disconnect your negative battery cable and put the meter in between. When you first put the meter in place, you will most likely "wake" your truck up. Leave the meter in place and watch it to see if the amps drop to an acceptable level. Ideally, you want the meter to have the option to measure in milliamps as sometimes you won't get any readings if it's a low draw when the meter is set to 10 amps. Watch your meter and see where it levels out - if you aren't drawing more than 10 amps, you shouldn't blow the fuse. Do not open the door or activate anything while you are doing this procedure and keep your keys in the house. Tape down any and all hood sensors, pull the hood light out if your truck has one, etc. Once it levels out, start pulling fuses one at a time to see where your amps drop.

Watch this video - it explains it well:

 
Last edited:
OP
OP
E

elving3

Junior Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2026
Posts
11
Reaction score
0
Location
Alaska
Ram Year
2008
Engine
Hemi 5.7
Some new info:

So I tried this new approach, connect the multimeter to neg cable and neg terminal with clips and leave it there for a while. Turned out maybe it wasnt so big a problem after all.

Initially it showed 1.68 amp, as the truck woke up, (all doors closed and everything off etc).

10 more sec it went down to 0.62 amp

10 more sec it went further down to 0.42 amp

5 more sec it showed 0.00 amp

Open a car door, went back up to 1.8 amp

Closed the door, went back down to 0.60 amp

So I disconnected the multimeter and tried again, it was the same result.

After approx 30 sec from attaching the meter leads the amp went from 1.68 to 0.00.

Perhaps the meter isnt that accurate and doesnt show the 0.02 amp that's recommended.

Anyway I'm guessing that I didnt have any real problems with parasitic draw after all. Am thinking that the reading I got instantly was the "start up" amperage. Had a 2 year old traditional car battery that always kept dropping to 12.45v after a couple of days after a full charge or after driving. I replaced it with an AGM and it holds the charge 12.75v for a couple of days now.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
211,262
Posts
3,064,201
Members
171,513
Latest member
dakota18
Back
Top