Play toy 2 year build!!!

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Bigtman07

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Ok Guys and gals I am going to be starting a build here shortly and need some ideas and maybe some help along the way.


I am going to be building a rig to do this:

[yt]RHwJjDBLZTk[/yt]

So starting platform is going to be my truck. Already paid for and will be retired in the next 2 years. So need some help and ideas to make this a great sleeper rig. Now future I will upgrade to a larger truck but this is my starting platform. So.........

Mod list:

More low end tq
modded trans
lockers or at least a spool
way to get maximum tq to the ground.

This is very VERY early in the build stages

So looking for recommendations for cam heads and intake to produce max tq. Going to probably fab up some kind of intake tube for coldest air possible.

Going to be going to 4.56 gears with most likely a Detroit locker or a spool.

As for trans what can I do for the nv4500 to keep it in working condition without blowing it apart prematurely? Also do you think I would benefit from a stall converter?

An SCT is in my future as well.

Not going to be an over the top build but a very good pulling machine.

thoughts??
 

the codes

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this is gonna be awesome!

cant wait to see this grow.

if you want tq why did you choose 4.56 over 4.88 gears? just curious

is the nv similar to the 46re?

I think the plane intakes are better for high end power, I think the kegger modded is supposed to be better for low end.

The iron ram heads are a cheap but sufficient upgrade from what iv been told.

and bored tb should be in the plans id think also..made a huge difference on my truck.

a torquey cam would prob be beneficial if you want to throw the cash at it..? I have heard these motors can be quite the tq monsters if given the opportunity along with time/parts.

since your going with a sct Id def go with one from sean so that he can tune it and get as much tq as possible out of that sucker.

this is gonna be awesome, subscribed! :D
 
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USMC1188

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This is gonna be awesome man! I look forward to seeing this puppy progress, good luck!
 
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Bigtman07

Bigtman07

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I was reading somewhere about the 46re being the same as the 4500 i think I got the numbers messes up in my head. Lol as for the gears last I heard 4.88 wont fit the stock rear housing. I'm not planning on doing an axle swap on this truck my next build will be bigger but thats a few years down the road. I still want to make the truck drivable at times as I will tow with it and play off road and do the tugs and pulls.

From what I hear the stock 360 block can be a low end beast with the right mods. So that is the list that I am working on making. So over time as my list gets made I can save a bit and buy new parts and what not. So starting at book values the truck should have a base of about 230hp and about 300ft/lb tq.

Looking to get about I dunno maybe the 500 tq number and lil over 350 hp.
Those are just numbers in my head. I know it is mostly about technique and grip. Soooooooooo need to have a solid driveline along with a strong motor. I wanted air lockers but..... yea I ain't gonna get those anytime soon.
 
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the codes

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ahh okay I see.

well, iv looked into tranny mods for our 46re, and havnt found a whole lot.

what I have found is that APS Precision mfg has a valve body available for ours with a "transgo" shift kit incorporated in it, along with some tweaks from APS, I posted about it but havnt got any hits yet. They seem to have a pretty knowledgeable staff on the 46re based on their website, saying they have made a 46re tranny capable of handling 1200hp/1200tq, but I have not found any people running their stuff yet able to testify.

In the far future, I may be the guinea pig.

for motor mods, I say leave the kegger, mod it, get a bored tb, sct, and look into a torquey cam. think that might be your best bang for buck, but what do I know lol just brainstorming what I would do.

Long tubes are a good bet for some tq as well I believe.

harland sharp rockers?

just tossing ideas around
 

Stangshcky12

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Is that at Yankee lake?
Extra weight is a big help too
Isn't the nv4500 a 5 speed manual and a 46re a 4 speed automatic?
 
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Bigtman07

Bigtman07

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ahh okay I see.

well, iv looked into tranny mods for our 46re, and havnt found a whole lot.

what I have found is that APS Precision mfg has a valve body available for ours with a "transgo" shift kit incorporated in it, along with some tweaks from APS, I posted about it but havnt got any hits yet. They seem to have a pretty knowledgeable staff on the 46re based on their website, saying they have made a 46re tranny capable of handling 1200hp/1200tq, but I have not found any people running their stuff yet able to testify.

In the far future, I may be the guinea pig.

for motor mods, I say leave the kegger, mod it, get a bored tb, sct, and look into a torquey cam. think that might be your best bang for buck, but what do I know lol just brainstorming what I would do.

Long tubes are a good bet for some tq as well I believe.

harland sharp rockers?

just tossing ideas around

^^^^Good thoughts. That's the whole point of starting this thread. I plan on searching and saving the first year and starting during year 2. But we will see. I'll have too look into the trans. I forgot about the rockers good call. Originally last year I was going to swap out my heads for a set of iron ram heads from hughes with 2.02 intake exhaust valves with a set of roller rockers and a 52 mm TB. But that got scrubbed cause of funds and school. This year. I hope to do More saving this year. But we will see.


Is that at Yankee lake?
Extra weight is a big help too

That is a negative ghost rider. That is our local track. They have a points bracket here in ohio. These guys build trucks just to do this. No mud not truck pulls just tug a truck. Weight will be an after thought only because of the weight restrictions. My truck now is almost a heavyweight stock. There are three classes. 5500# and under, 5500# to 6500#, and 6500# to 9500#
My truck weighs in at 6800 fully loaded with all road gear. I want to be able to go down to the 5500 and be competative and then work it int he 6500. My next build will be a full on heavyweight.
 
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Bigtman07

Bigtman07

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Well the easiest to get into is the 6500# let me get a rule list here.

Tug-A-Truck: Rules

- 30" Hitch Height
- Must make weight..... No exceptions in weight, no pounds will be given in excess. Can not be over weight.
- As many passengers as seatbelts will allow as truck was manufactured.
- TIRES: Must be DOT approved, NON-COMPETITION, intended for highway use, any questions please ask
before event because we want you there to pull.
- All weight ballast must be secured, if weight falls off truck it will be disqualified.
- Truck must stay on pad, 1 warning per hook.
- Each truck will receive a maximium of 3 min. of downtime per hook. (ex: mechanical problems, truck dies)
 

Stangshcky12

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Ahhhh I know they have truck tug o war along with all the other mud stuff but I knew it was a pretty far trip for you there
I didn't realize that was a big thing across Ohio, especially since its unheard of around here lol
 
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Bigtman07

Bigtman07

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oh yea it is a big to do. There are 3 in one weekend up there and one a month for points in the summer. Our fair has one and then we have another in the fall.
 

KGBIGCOUNTRY

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Drop the nose of your truck down, hang weights as best you can. In the rules it does not say anything about not running forced induction or spray, also nothing saying bore, stroke, heads ect. Seems pretty well open.
 
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Bigtman07

Bigtman07

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It is VERY open. At the pull on friday night there was a converted toyota land cruiser with a 4bt or 6bt on airbags running nos. Then another fully built race 500 something alcohol burner. Yea these guys make the power. Not building anything like that. I got some vids from the pull on friday I will need to get up. But from what I have seen nose down isn't a good thing. Low and slow. Equal weight and now spring movement. You hop you break. lol

Pulls last friday. Watch for a blue ford flatbed and a green yota with a stack

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Stangshcky12

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Hm it doesn't look like hanging weights way off the front or solid blocking the year like sled pullers would really help much since the weight isn't dragging down on the year like a sled
I'm sure air bags would still help
 

Okiespaniel

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I guess I'm gonna play devils advocate...

I don't know how serious you are about this tug thing...looks real unsafe to me...but you really need two things...low end and top end.
I'm assuming from the dust and smoke this is on hard dirt? Or asphalt?

I would never waste my time with 1500 parts... because I play to win. And winning requires beefy axles and transmission. I'd be doing those before any motor work. All the motor work in the world won't help if you can't get to the ground and keep it there consistently

The stresses of trying to move a stationary truck with full throttle is incredibly stressful on a tranny. Convetors actually balloon and can explode, planetaries could grenade...fluid temps? Forget about it !

You don't move enought to worry about a motor....at least something that sounds like a funny car. Diesel swap...maybe>?

What size/type tires are run...again, the surface is gonna determine whether A/T or Mudders are used. Also gearing

I'd be starting my search for a set D-60/D-70 axles and start from there. Probably need some ladder bars to keep 'em from jumping out back. You don't want a lot of lift, just enought clear the rubber.
 
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Bigtman07

Bigtman07

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Ok okie to fill in a few gaps for ya here. This is done on a concrete pad. The smoke you see is tire smoke. Now ideally like in any tug of war like back in the schoolyard traction is key. I have seen 1500's take out the big diesels. It can be done but you have to have the right mix of weight ,grip, tq, and hp. All have to work together. For example. The black beat up dodge with flames in the video is using an old 5.9 or 5.2. it was 2500 running gear and a cooled trans. He was able to win the 500# class against a blown alcohol injected beast.

Now I know running gear is a weak point. But I don't have the money to throw 2.5 ton rockwells on there to make it bullet proof. I'm not going for bullet proof at all. I know things are going to break. That is the point of a play toy. It's not a daily driver. I have seen many truck grenade their diffs and u-joints along with blown radiator hoses, popped fuel lines bent frames. The list can go on and on. But all those can happen whether or not its with a sled or another truck.

As for wheels you really have 2 ideal choices. Performance street tires or rock crawler tires. Less sidewall is better than 35's and a 16" wheel.

So the plan is to build the driveline to handle the strain. Transcooler box with remote cooler to keep things cold. good low gears in the axles and good traction. Think of it as going for minimum safe distance on a bombing run.

Ideally I want an all purpose rig I can do the tugs with, wheel with, pull with, and enjoy. Guess what I'm trying to say is that I want to build a good starter truck if you will. I have ideas floating in my head just need to get them out.
 
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