Por-15 "Build" Thread

[Jwithing]

Don't worry about the DS imbalance. Your not adding enough paint to really add any weight in 1 specific area to throw it off. All my High HP DS for my racing cars are painted after balance and they get balanced wayyyyy higher RPM wise than stock stuff.

FWIW my new 18 CC with the steel DS had fully rusted within 1 week of having it. I hit it with rustoleum rust converter paint and then a coat of semi/flat hot rod satin black. No issues and looks fine. I find it annoying that my neighbors 3500 has an aluminum DS... Wish the 1500s came with them.

I also never recoat POR15. The first layer with self level and look smooth, if you try to go over it again with a 2nd coat it wont self level and you will get stroke marks (guess how I know). I would just do one good coat. For parts that see the SUN, you need a top coat as POR15 is not UV stable and it will discolor. Not needed under the truck but you could easily paint it an accent color etc.

I've seen mixed emotions with using the UV top coat on the undercarriage. While it's not in direct UV light, it does get some UV rays. Some surfaces like snow reflect even more than say grass. I figure, while I'm under there, slap it on to make sure I do it once. I'm personally not too worried about brush strokes on the undercarriage. Appreciate the perspective!

 

[blackbetty14]

Oh I was just referring to 2 coats of POR15. You could totally top coat it with any paint. I was just speaking about 2 coats of the rust sealer/preventative POR15... its not really needed. A single good coat will seal it up and provide a smooth uniform finish for your top coat of choice. POR15 actually works great for painting engine blocks too... just in case you were thinking of cleaning up the engine bay a bit

 

[Jwithing]

Oh I was just referring to 2 coats of POR15. You could totally top coat it with any paint. I was just speaking about 2 coats of the rust sealer/preventative POR15... its not really needed. A single good coat will seal it up and provide a smooth uniform finish for your top coat of choice. POR15 actually works great for painting engine blocks too... just in case you were thinking of cleaning up the engine bay a bit

Haha, not a chance on the engine bay lol. That sounds like only something to do during an engine rebuild or swap!

 

[Jwithing]

Just ordered everything. Went with gloss black since thats all amazon had for the 6 (4oz) cans, since everyone states the lids get sealed shut when attempting to reuse. Went with chassis black for the topcoat, because I'm scared to go more glossy and be SOL if I don't like it. Also picked up some disposable brushes and a silicon pour lid for the topcoat can reuse purposes. $163 with tax. Note it can probably be done cheaper. This stuff apparently goes a long way and I got the gallon of degreaser and etcher for future uses. Coverage is stated as 50sqft per pint or 96 sqft per quart. Which means I should be able to do two coats of the por-15 gloss black over 37.5 sqft and still have about 60 sqft worth of the topcoat left over. Amazon's pint of the top coat was nearly the same price as the quart, which is only $8 more than a pint on por-15's site. No brainier with shipping.

 

[MarshRam]

Ahhh, decided to go with the POR-15 topcoat I see. Cool beans, can't wait to see pics. If you happen to get any on the skin, wonder if a little acetone would work, it works wonders in getting resin off the skin.

 

[Jwithing]

Ahhh, decided to go with the POR-15 topcoat I see. Cool beans, can't wait to see pics. If you happen to get any on the skin, wonder if a little acetone would work, it works wonders in getting resin off the skin.

They say to use solvent or lacquer thinner immediately. Otherwise, if it dries, it takes 3-4 days for your natural oils to push it out of your skin.

I'd imagine it would take more, usually takes 3-4 days for me to get stubborn latex paint off lol.

I plan on using full tyvex disposable painters coveralls. Not sure what to use for my hands yet. A lot of times that stuff will start to seep through nitril/latex gloves and/or deteriorate it making it prone to breaking.

 

[MarshRam]

Have the same issue with our resin, but I always figured it was because of the catalyst. Really not sure if you would have a problem with the paint, but I really don't know. If they will work, then you are covered, literally!!!

 

[Jwithing]

Nothing like getting close to the end and your latex breaking... I usually finish anyway and just deal with the mess afterwards.

 

[chrisbh17]

Nothing like getting close to the end and your latex breaking... I usually finish anyway and just deal with the mess afterwards.

I fixed that issue by getting married (take my inference any way you like )

 

[S0CAL]

I've seen mixed emotions with using the UV top coat on the undercarriage. While it's not in direct UV light, it does get some UV rays. Some surfaces like snow reflect even more than say grass. I figure, while I'm under there, slap it on to make sure I do it once. I'm personally not too worried about brush strokes on the undercarriage. Appreciate the perspective!

I am calling boolsheet. I have seen how clean you keep your truck. We know what a Type-A personality you are.

 

[S0CAL]

Can't wait to see your progress report!

 

[MarshRam]

I am calling boolsheet. I have seen how clean you keep your truck. We know what a Type-A personality you are.

Ditto on the boolsheet, I'm **** too and those brush marks would bother me. J, we don't believe you. You even thought about UV rays reflecting off snow. Cmon, who thinks that deep, anals like us is who, you can't fool your own kind!!! Good luck brotha!

 

[Jwithing]

Haha, you guys know me well, but over the years, I've had to teach myself "good enough" and brush strokes on the undercarriage definitely fall under "good enough" classification. Visible flaking although, would not be ok!

 

[Jwithing]

Got the por-15 yesterday and misc supplies. Chassis black top coat still scheduled for delivery tomorrow. The degreaser and etcher showed delayed yesterday. Just looked it up and this is a new one from amazon that I e never seen...

 

[S0CAL]

Crap, damaged. Uggh. Sorry man.

 

[Jwithing]

Got home and had a door knocker from USPS that said they didn't deliver it because it was leaking.

Went on por-15's website and found a local dealer right down the road. Picked up a quart of each and am back in business! Hope a quart of the metal prep will be enough since you have to soak the metal for 20 minutes.

 

[Jwithing]

Well fellas, looks like this project is going to have to wait until another weekend. Last minute BBQ sprang up today with the weather picking up, so unless something goes horribly wrong, I should be intoxicated for a good portion of the day and don't think I'll be able to give this the proper attention in 1 Sunday.

 

[MarshRam]

Well fellas, looks like this project is going to have to wait until another weekend. Last minute BBQ sprang up today with the weather picking up, so unless something goes horribly wrong, I should be intoxicated for a good portion of the day and don't think I'll be able to give this the proper attention in 1 Sunday.

Barbecue, intoxication, nice weather for the freaking first time in forever. Yeah, good call, it can wait!

 

[S0CAL]

No kidding. Never ever pass up on BBQ and friends. You NEVER get that time back.

 

[Jwithing]

It has begun... Due to cinco de mayo activities, I am currently prepping for painting tomorrow in the dark. The rear axel is my primary priority. I crawled under the truck ready to start and immediately thought, fml. I'm going to have to tackle this in stages. Rear axel for now to start. Here are some before pics in the dark. There are some heavier rust spots on the bottom and facing the front, but it's dark, so a few backside pics will have to do for now.