Power steering debacle

[oldcrappyram]

So I've been fighting a power steering bug on my 2013 hemi for months just driving without powersteering is normal at this point but I'm tired of failed repair attempts. So I have replaced the whole rack assuming that was the problem my power steering was random worked more on nice weather days and eventually to not at all.

I have tried dielectric grease in all connectors checked the 2 pin primary power for power and ground both are great, my 3 pin connector has power to the center pin with ignition like it should but I don't know how to test the two canbus communication wires on the outside of the connector. When I replaced the rack it worked for a day, Next drive I had to shut it down and restart it for it to work for a day then it quit all together again. I'm just looking for suggestions at this point lol.

Also I don't have any equipment to talk with the ecu so don't have any codes or faults at the moment to help diag.

 

[oldcrappyram]

My buddy told me canbus wires should typically see around 3v but if it's just for communication I don't see that being the case. But I guess I'm hoping someone will chip in with any and all advice

 

[Ken226]

So I've been fighting a power steering bug on my 2013 hemi for months just driving without powersteering is normal at this point but I'm tired of failed repair attempts. So I have replaced the whole rack assuming that was the problem my power steering was random worked more on nice weather days and eventually to not at all.

I have tried dielectric grease in all connectors checked the 2 pin primary power for power and ground both are great, my 3 pin connector has power to the center pin with ignition like it should but I don't know how to test the two canbus communication wires on the outside of the connector. When I replaced the rack it worked for a day, Next drive I had to shut it down and restart it for it to work for a day then it quit all together again. I'm just looking for suggestions at this point lol.

Also I don't have any equipment to talk with the ecu so don't have any codes or faults at the moment to help diag.

What did you replace it with?

The only replacement rack's that i've heard of that actually work are OEM Mopar. The newest revision is pn# 68628858AA

I've never heard of any aftermarket rack, such as Dorman, Duralast, etc working. Ever. Not one single time. I'm still holding out hope, but nope, not a single one yet.

Replace it with Mopar 68628858AA. If you absolutely must go cheap, then get a used unit from a junkyard. It will be an earlier revision, so different part#, but as long as it's OEM it should work with just a VIN initialization with a scan tool or AlfaOBD.


But absolutely, under no circumstance, should you buy an aftermarket one.

There is a thread just a few posts down from this one that is worth reading. Also, there are links to other threads posted in that thread, and on and on and on.

Many have tried aftermarket. ....... Not a single one that i know of has ever succeeded.
Just like aftermarket lifters, somehow even though none seem to work, people keep trying.

 

[tron67j]

Check with Benny in Vendor section at All Mopar Parts for good price on OEM.

 

[oldcrappyram]

I pulled the replacement from a wrecked 2013, worked for first drive then randomly hit or miss until not at all again. It was also a Oem unit

 

[oldcrappyram]

hasn't worked in a month or so and yesterday randomly worked for my whole drive home then back to not working. It's like at startup if something isn't reading right it keeps it off for whole drive. Is there anything in the steering column that could be causing this? Maybe I'm looking in the wrong area..

 

[oldcrappyram]

Just for some back story on this truck.. I bought it three years ago with 179k and at 216k lifter failed and ate up the cam so I paid a guy 8k to pull and fully rebuild engine since I planned on keeping it had mds delete the whole 9 done. About 1k miles into new motor cylinder #8 grenades.

He agrees to rebuild it again since it has 2 year warranty so now on 3rd engine already. Replaced power steering rack, engine, evaporator core, headlights, foglights, radio, mirrors, rear springs, and a host of other things I'm forgetting so I am fully invested in this joke of a 6 speed and have seriously contemplated doing the 8 speed swap but hear nightmare stories about tuning etc.

So I am on a mission now to fix this power steering since I am feeling a bit of extra play in steering now I think I am wearing out the Universal joints in the steering shaft lol. Anyhow enough of my rant I'm sure there is far worse situations then mine with a 4th gen

 

[Ken226]

Is there anything in the steering column that could be causing this? Maybe I'm looking in the wrong area..

No. Aside from power and ground, everything the EPS unit needs to work is inside the unit.

It has a torque sensor inside the EPS unit that tells the stepper motor how much force to apply to the rack, based on the amount of force you are applying to the sensor via the steering wheel/shaft. It's all internal.

Unless somehow you have an intermittent problem with the power/ground supplying the unit, then the problem is internal to the unit.

pull the cover plate and inspect the circuit board for water intrusion. You'll need a 5 point security torx:

https://www.amazon.com/LMXMGRG-Security-Screwdriver-Magnetic-TT8-TT45/dp/B0FG2XSHP9/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3NZ6J886OQDWY&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7s_1d9b-Yzv2jEorfirJMp9wMLAp0der5Q9RxVD0oyrArQaBCN2Sqm2KaQfP4UYicrQoFOfXRfTcOWokVg9L4VLxzXPnEgP_TW_jAAIm0Y4UaDkPatOmeceJFmd3SRBNt5XClmxoNMSmPb7bWp7z_G6QvozKIWjzcgZriRHRioYvBNMMqE_bibid1ayR-_R6JvtXhRJvj-uiU13_UVJhXGN7PvuPYn4zsc34i65jXV3SXepPmB61f0a9zE7dQa-hwY6NRmzLmHmP1V9iIYRXyi4gZUwedqs-IghxAwcFTvs.ybpek5Z-A4HntklJtiAAvo5QYEsKKWaFpqQeJu_cNMA&dib_tag=se&keywords=5%2Bpoint%2Btorx%2Bsecurity%2Bbits&qid=1766502965&sprefix=5%2Bpoint%2Btorx%2B%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Also, pull the motor cover and inspect the belt and ball screw/nut for water intrusion and corrosion.

 

[oldcrappyram]

Will do already bought the bits for the last one. It's good to know it's all internal, going to try to create my own 3 pin wiring this weekend and bypass the short section see if I have a short there somehow

 

[Ken226]

Will do already bought the bits for the last one. It's good to know it's all internal, going to try to create my own 3 pin wiring this weekend and bypass the short section see if I have a short there somehow

Here is a wiring diagram, if it's helpful.




As you can see, there isn't much. Main power & ground, and a switched power to tell the EPS module to switch on.

The yellow and yellow/brown wires connect the EPS module to the canbus network. The network connection allows for programming of parameters like steering pull compensation, setting the VIN and initializing the unit.

 

[oldcrappyram]

Well bypassed the 3 pin verified with multimeter power isn't dropping and performed a T.IP.M. reset still nothing. Going to pull the cover later today and check for moisture

 

[oldcrappyram]

By the way Merry Christmas to you and your families!

 

[Ken226]

By the way Merry Christmas to you and your families!

Thanks, to you as well.


Here is a video that kinda gives an indication of the standalone nature of these EPS units. The Ford units are very similar to the ones Chrysler uses, possibly even come from the same OEM supplier.

These EPS retrofits are popular retrofits as they clean up the engine bay.

You can skip ahead to the 30 min mark and just watch the last 8 minutes of the video. That is the relevant part, as he is powering on/off the unit while his wife turns the steering wheel back and forth.

Notice the only wires connected are the main power/ground, and the switched on/off signal wire. The canbus wires in the connector are left vacant.

Mustang electric steering rack conversion for Crown Vic swaps!! Jess's 1964 F100 gets P/S and more!!

On this episode of Mad Ginger Customs we upgrade Jess's steering in a big way!!! We rebuild our Crown Vic front end, upgrade the brakes and install a Ford Mu...

youtu.be

 

[oldcrappyram]

So I'm at a complete loss, took both covers off of old and replacement unit both clean no corrosion and dry as a bone. Went as far as measuring voltage on rails inside of box and they were good 12.7 ignition dropped to 10.5 when starting then up to 14.4V running like normal.

 

[David Oakes]

Also I don't have any equipment to talk with the ecu so don't have any codes or faults at the moment to help diag.

Without a good reader, preferably Alfaobd with a compatible obd2 reader, you can't do a vin initialization and I would think it would continuously stop working as the ecu fails to validate it.

Just a guess...

 

[oldcrappyram]

So a steering angle sensor wouldn't cause this issue? I ask since I recently dropped the steering column to do the evaporator core. It worked fine afterwards until about a month later the issue started with steering. Edit to this I did some more research and I answered my own question lol it seems no it does not interfere with Eps

 

[Grams]

Here is a wiring diagram, if it's helpful.

View attachment 577486


As you can see, there isn't much. Main power & ground, and a switched power to tell the EPS module to switch on.

The yellow and yellow/brown wires connect the EPS module to the canbus network. The network connection allows for programming of parameters like steering pull compensation, setting the VIN and initializing the unit.

View attachment 577487

View attachment 577488

View attachment 577489

Ken, I don’t want to hijack this thread…. but the 2015 Ram 1500 I bought has as slight…but irritating tendency to pull to the left into oncoming traffic. I’ve had this thing aligned 3 times now…after the 2nd time it was demonstrated to me the tie-rods were worn…so I’ve replaced them…had it re-aligned…and there is STILL a slight pull to the left with the steering wheen ever-so-slightly left…. But while driving on a straight highway with little or no “slope” (crown)…this truck requires a slight pressure toward the right in order to prevent it drifting into oncoming traffic.
Your post above (quoted) makes me wonder: Do I need to “Clear Sterring Pull Compensation” ..?? and how do I do that..??
Thx.

 

[Ken226]

It's a little different, depending on which scan tool or software you use.

On this forum, AlfaOBD is the most common and what more members are familiar with, so with AlfaOBD

Connect to the EPS Module:


Then select the "active diagnostics" tab,

then "clear steering pull compensation".





Disclaimer: I havn't done this and don't know what effect it will have, or if it will even work.



Edit to add:
To the best of my understanding, steering pull compensation is something that your EPS module "learns" kinda like the long term fuel trim. As you drive, If the steering angle sensor detects that you are driving generally strait, but the EPS internal torque sensor detects that you are applying force to the steering wheel to hold the strait line, the EPS module learns to maintain a slight force in the same direction to help.

As an analogy, very much like the trim wheels in your airplane, except computer controlled. "Clear Steering Pull Compensaiton" resets the trim to 0, and the EPS module has to relearn it. If you have an alignment done, the shop should have been able to do it with their scan tool.

Also, the factory service manual specifies that after an alignment, the "Clear Steering Pull Compensation" should be done with a scan tool:

 

[oldcrappyram]

So update, I had a coworker give me a hand he wiggled the 3 pin connector and it was throwing codes for tpms and power steering so I am pretty sure the connector needs to be repinned/replaced. I never did reprogram anything on the replacement bit I will see about getting it done. We held the old power steering unit in place and plugged it in and all codes cleared like it was fine. Maybe it's showing fine for first drive then losing connection somewhere during the drive and shutting it down for next restart??

 

[Ken226]

So update, I had a coworker give me a hand he wiggled the 3 pin connector and it was throwing codes for tpms and power steering so I am pretty sure the connector needs to be repinned/replaced. I never did reprogram anything on the replacement bit I will see about getting it done. We held the old power steering unit in place and plugged it in and all codes cleared like it was fine. Maybe it's showing fine for first drive then losing connection somewhere during the drive and shutting it down for next restart??

The plug is in an area commonly exposed to water and road debris, so corrosion and bad connections are a good possibility.

Especially if you live somewhere with a lot of salt in the winter.

Perhaps check the connector pins for corrosion and hit them with some deoxit.

My truck has OEM skid plates, which I've noticed, blocks road grime and keeps the EPS connectors nice and clean.