Powered Subwoofer Install

[ThunderMug95]

I upgraded my audio system over the past 2 weeks. Replaced all speakers with Kicker CS series. Yes, soldered in a 4ohm resistor for 3.5” dash speakers to bring it close to the oem 8ohm speaker. Sounded vastly better than stock. So I went a step further and installed a Rockville 10” powered sub behind the my rear seat. Used recommended 8ga wiring, solid chassis grounds. The Amp/Sub has the ability to turn on the traditional way with a wired in ignition “on” connection and the low level input RCA...OR... high level input that senses when speakers receive signal/power to turn on the Amp/Sub, separate set of wires/plug specifically for this set up. I wired it in using the high level input. Tapped L and R rear door speakers (+/-) correctly and securely and connected correctly to the plug leads for the high level. Triple checked.
Sounds amazing.
The slight issue I am having is in power up/down. It powers up when any door opens and upon shutdown, there is a delay, around 30 seconds. Then there is an audible thump out of the sub. I am running my stock RA2. I am assuming there is a signal or power that gets sent from the head unit when a door is accessed or locked on shutdown etc. its not annoying enough to rip it out, but it is weird. Rockville states its not unusual for a factory head unit to cause this. Im just not sure I like it. I may rewire it to the low input....
Anyone else experience this phenomenon?

 

[blackbetty14]

In some other systems I’ve gotten it. It’s all about how it receives power to turn on. The factory radio turns on when the door is opened, key accessory it turns on and for every other reason it just turns on lol. High level inputs are nice bc they only turn on when the speakers get juice but like u said the issue is the radio turns on all the time.

A switched ignition turn on or a manual switched rocker would simplify the turn on but u might get the audible hum when the key is on but the radio isn’t.

I run a 8” kicker shallow along with my factory alpine system and I use the stock sub signal wires to piggyback to a scosch LOC which has a integrated amp turn on wire, which activated my alpine amp. They are less than $20 and outputs low level RCAs to the amp and you hook it into the high levels your using now. I don’t get an audible hum or annoying thump on power down and it works great.

I think it might also be the quality of the components, Rockville isn’t even close to good quality. I run a Rockville 6” boom tube in my hotrod for bass bc it was the right size, cheap and had an internal amp and that car the exhaust is so loud the sound system doesn’t need to be “clear” lol.

 

[ThunderMug95]

Thanks for verifying what I thought was the issue...the oem head unit powering up with everything...
Oh and I completely agree that Rockville isn't in the same ballpark with Kicker, JL and others. Its slim, powered and affordable. All I need it for is to sit behind the seat and add some low end.
I have a Kicker KISL-2 sitting on the shelf. I could just wire that right in at the amp and RCA in. Then run the “power on” to an ignition “ on/off” point. I just need to find a good one....maybe the 12V cig plug. Any suggestions are welcome here.

 

[PowrRam]

Where is your subwoofer getting power? Where is the red power (+) connected?

Also, why is it assumed the Rockville amps are "not in the same ballpark as Kicker and JL"? Is it because they are less expensive? Comparing the specs, they seem at least as good, if not better. So why the bum rap?

 

[ThunderMug95]

Power is dedicated/fused straight from the battery, just like any aftermarket amp. I am not wanting to put a toggle on that. Going to switch it from high level input to low level and run the power on signal wire to the 12v acc under the radio. See if that fixes my on/off delay im getting and hopefully the power on/off “bump” sound.
Dont get me wrong, the Rockville is a sweet little unit, extremely affordable and sounds pretty darn good. Its only about 3” deep too. I ran it hard for an hour, to the detriment of my ears and it didnt cut out or quit. Time will tell on it.

 

[rotwiler]

Thanks for verifying what I thought was the issue...the oem head unit powering up with everything...
Oh and I completely agree that Rockville isn't in the same ballpark with Kicker, JL and others. Its slim, powered and affordable. All I need it for is to sit behind the seat and add some low end.
I have a Kicker KISL-2 sitting on the shelf. I could just wire that right in at the amp and RCA in. Then run the “power on” to an ignition “ on/off” point. I just need to find a good one....maybe the 12V cig plug. Any suggestions are welcome here.

A lot hate on Rockville, but price vs performance it can be a great deal. I am running a 1,000 watt Rockville cea rated Amp to 2 12s in my truck and it's been reliable, never gets hot, bass knob is excellent quality, and tests on YouTube from independent guy who tests amps, tested it at over 1,100 watts certified at 80% efficient. And was only at the time $114. I'm still happy with it and I never bought cheap crap brands in past, always big name ones. I bought package at time and got 2 Rockville k612 inch 600 watts rms subs at same time and they are really beefy and flex so high, was hitting the raised subwoofer protector and never thought it would have 26mm of xmax when bought them, they look expensive and I got them for $44 each new. If I didn't do the rear under seat box, I would for sure get a couple of those amplied low profile subs. I would buy another db14 Amp without a second thought, tester opened Amp up and said only thing he could see that needed attention was the, not sure what its called) looks like spool of copper, for power supply, he would add some silicone around it to make it more resistant to possibly loosen up over time.