Question about HID's

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JTrean

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So, I've had an H11 hid kit laying around from a previous vehicle that I never used and I also have a relay harness from another previous vehicle. I am wanting to install the HID kit on my truck and I'm wondering if the relay harness will do the job with the kit. Will I need to get error eliminators or anything else? Also, I have the quad headlights. Thanks in advance.
 

BlownGP

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A wiring harness is a wiring harness. Pretty much all the same. Some add in built in anti-flicker modules.

So since you have a 2010. Any hids, with anti-flicker modules, and a harness will work.
 
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JTrean

JTrean

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Could I just order warning canceler modules from 3bspec and be good?
 
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JTrean

JTrean

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So I installed the hid's last night with the warning canceller I got off eBay, and this morning when i started my truck, I had the left side bulb turn off and then on three times and the right side did it once. Any tips or suggestions?
 

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Did they stay on after wards?

Have a good ground and connections?
 
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JTrean

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Did they stay on after wards?

Have a good ground and connections?

They stayed on fine after that. I didn't run a relay harness, just the error canceller and the ballast. All the connections are good. It was right as they were warning up when they turned off/on.
 

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You need a harness so they get direct power from the battery.

Stock wiring can't handle the initial fire up and power that HIDS need.
They will work as you see, but you will get flickers problems.
 
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JTrean

JTrean

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You need a harness so they get direct power from the battery.

Stock wiring can't handle the initial fire up and power that HIDS need.
They will work as you see, but you will get flickers problems.

I thought I couldn't use a harness with the error eliminators? Do you know where I can find a harness with the anti flicker built in? What if I just switch to canbus ballasts?
 

blackbetty14

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Canbus is only good to stopping the bulb out indicators. U need a HarNess that connects right from the battery, and use the headlights bulb power connections to trigger relays. The canbus adapters are literally just resistors and capacitors, to fool or trick the ECM to think the bulb (hid ballast) is pulling the 50w of a normal halogen. Capacitors help store energy when the ballasts ignite and draw more amps.

Believe it or not but a 50w HID ballast pulls like 10 amps on startup to ignite and then lowers down to like 4-6amps.


retroshop and retrofitsource both offer the OEM specific harnesses so it's mostly plug and play. I actually just upgrades from canbus adapters to the harness due to flickering on my driver side. With the harness I have no flickering. Only downfall is its more work to run the harness and make the connections and the resistors get very hot compared to the canbus adapters.
 
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JTrean

JTrean

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Canbus is only good to stopping the bulb out indicators. U need a HarNess that connects right from the battery, and use the headlights bulb power connections to trigger relays. The canbus adapters are literally just resistors and capacitors, to fool or trick the ECM to think the bulb (hid ballast) is pulling the 50w of a normal halogen. Capacitors help store energy when the ballasts ignite and draw more amps.

Believe it or not but a 50w HID ballast pulls like 10 amps on startup to ignite and then lowers down to like 4-6amps.


retroshop and retrofitsource both offer the OEM specific harnesses so it's mostly plug and play. I actually just upgrades from canbus adapters to the harness due to flickering on my driver side. With the harness I have no flickering. Only downfall is its more work to run the harness and make the connections and the resistors get very hot compared to the canbus adapters.

Awesome, thanks. I was just at retro shop looking at their harness. I also just realized I plugged both inner plugs into the hid headlights.... Is this a no no? The plugs I'm referring to are the small clearish plugs inside the bulb cover that are under the actual bulb.
 

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I thought I couldn't use a harness with the error eliminators? Do you know where I can find a harness with the anti flicker built in? What if I just switch to canbus ballasts?

Of course you can man. You just install the anti flickers modules into the ballast, then hood the wiring harness to the other end of the anti flickers modules.

Mopar Specific HID Relay Harness
 
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JTrean

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Of course you can man. You just install the anti flickers modules into the ballast, then hood the wiring harness to the other end of the anti flickers modules.

Mopar Specific HID Relay Harness

Great, thanks. I can't remember which site I read that at but it might have only been for that specific module... Anyways, I ordered the mopar harness from retro shop.
 

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Great, thanks. I can't remember which site I read that at but it might have only been for that specific module... Anyways, I ordered the HD harness from retro shop.

I'll have that out for you tomorrow, thanks! :favorites13:
 
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JTrean

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I'll have that out for you tomorrow, thanks! :favorites13:

Should I use the cancellers I have installed now with the harness or just the harness? I know it says the harness has the capacitors built in so I don't see why I'd use the cancellers I have now with it..
 

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U will need nothing but the harness. That harness is specific to our truck and has the resistors and capacitors already buit in. Word of caution... the harness isn't really long enough to the pass side so u will have to get creative with wire running and ballast/resistor placement. I won't drill any holes in my brand new truck so that's why I said this (grounding terminals etc) also the blur resistors will get very hot so mount them to metal and away from anything that can melt (makes it more fun combined with the harness length and using open OEM ground points).
 
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JTrean

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U will need nothing but the harness. That harness is specific to our truck and has the resistors and capacitors already buit in. Word of caution... the harness isn't really long enough to the pass side so u will have to get creative with wire running and ballast/resistor placement. I won't drill any holes in my brand new truck so that's why I said this (grounding terminals etc) also the blur resistors will get very hot so mount them to metal and away from anything that can melt (makes it more fun combined with the harness length and using open OEM ground points).
Thanks for the heads up. Thanks for all the help from everyone. I really appreciate it.
 
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JTrean

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Well, I installed the harness tonight and everything works perfectly!! :roflsquared: Big thanks to everyone who helped me out and also a big thanks to Retroshop for making a solid product for our trucks:favorites13:
 
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