Radiator clogged?

[My77blazer]

I have recently attempted to flush the cooling system 2013 1500 5.7. When I drained the radiator I didn’t even get a gallon out, then when I filled it with distilled water I barely got a gallon in before it came out the bleed hole on the water pump. I have read other guys posts and they got close to 2 gallons in before it came out the bleed hole. Is this a sign that my radiator is junk?

 

[Burla]

What did the fluid look like? Run 32 ounce rmi-25 through it, it will take any slime in system and deposit it into overflow tank where it gets trapped til you get it out.

 

[My77blazer]

It was a orangish brown color at first. I ran Prestone system flush through it, filled with water and drained about 4 times.

 

[Wild one]

I have recently attempted to flush the cooling system 2013 1500 5.7. When I drained the radiator I didn’t even get a gallon out, then when I filled it with distilled water I barely got a gallon in before it came out the bleed hole on the water pump. I have read other guys posts and they got close to 2 gallons in before it came out the bleed hole. Is this a sign that my radiator is junk?

Were you using the petcock to drain it,if so try pulling the lower hose off the rad,then use a garden hose to run water through the rad

 

[CanuckRam1313]

If you really want to get deep into flushing that cooling system, look at Cummins Restore Plus cooling system flush.... this stuff will pretty much peel off any internal cooling system contaminant lol.

However, you could be in a situation that you'll need a new rad because the system is too clogged up.

In this instance, I'd also recommend that you replace the water pump and the thermostat, and go OEM whenever and wherever possible.

Also, did you put a "T" in the bypass hose so you could ensure you got the heater core into the flush equation?

You could also have to consider a heater core replacement as well in this equation.

Being that you've had real dirty coolant coming out, I'd seriously consider a new OEM rad cap, too

Do it all once and then you don't have to consider the "what if's" down the road!

Change your coolant moving forward every 3 years or so... regardless of the mileage! It is a chemical that starts losing its redeeming properties in its third+ years of service!

This is all just my opinion though

 

[My77blazer]

Thanks for all the feedback! This all started because I have no heat on the drivers side and now the passenger side as well. I flushed the heater core 2x and seemed to have good flow and a bunch of crud came out. Heat improved significantly for a short time then was cold again.

I’m trying to avoid replacing the heater core and was hoping a system flush would help.

 

[Wild one]

Thanks for all the feedback! This all started because I have no heat on the drivers side and now the passenger side as well. I flushed the heater core 2x and seemed to have good flow and a bunch of crud came out. Heat improved significantly for a short time then was cold again.

I’m trying to avoid replacing the heater core and was hoping a system flush would help.

I think Pacofortacos has swapped his heater hoses around so that the coolant back flushes the heater core,might be worth a shot if you've flushed it and still not getting heat,you could also throw a full 32 oz bottle of RMI into the cooling system.What coolant are you using,as your 13 should call for the 10 year OAT coolant.Avoid mixing coolants,as alot of aftermarket coolants don't play nice with the Mopar OAT coolant

 

[My77blazer]

Before I did any research I added some generic “universal” coolant which probably didn’t help. I actually went and got the Mopar OAT this time though.

 

[Burla]

Before I did any research I added some generic “universal” coolant which probably didn’t help. I actually went and got the Mopar OAT this time though.

Not every universal coolant is the same, you need to read the sds to see if it is a dex clone. Many universal coolants are great, especially the new purple ones out there made to replace chyslr oat.

 

[Wild one]

Before I did any research I added some generic “universal” coolant which probably didn’t help. I actually went and got the Mopar OAT this time though.

Hopefully it didn't gell and turn to sludge,if it did,then you have a big head-ache on your hands.Have you pulled the lower rad hose off and re-drained it,if you have lumpy or gelled coolant coming out,you have headaches ahead,lol

 

[My77blazer]

I did pull the lower hose off and there wasn’t any gel or sludge that came out. I also drained the block on the passenger side and it was all coolant/water. It’s been below zero most of this week and I don’t have a heated space to work on it so I haven’t done anything.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Hopefully it didn't gell and turn to sludge,if it did,then you have a big head-ache on your hands.Have you pulled the lower rad hose off and re-drained it,if you have lumpy or gelled coolant coming out,you have headaches ahead,lol

Oxalic acid works wonders. Problem is, you must run much arm & hammer through afterwards with many many gallons of water to finish neutralizing the acid. The only place I know to get the acid is the hardware store, as it is used for furniture finishing.
One must use rubber gloves and don a respirator as well. I've used it twice on REALLY clogged systems ... one RAM and a Saturn. Both vehicles went on to live normal lives afterward!

 

[Burla]

Oxalic acid works wonders. Problem is, you must run much arm & hammer through afterwards with many many gallons of water to finish neutralizing the acid. The only place I know to get the acid is the hardware store, as it is used for furniture finishing.
One must use rubber gloves and don a respirator as well. I've used it twice on REALLY clogged systems ... one RAM and a Saturn. Both vehicles went on to live normal lives afterward!

Have you tried rmi25? I would bet you can get it on the cheap with your business.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Have you tried rmi25? I would bet you can get it on the cheap with your business.

I have not tried it, and intend to do so.

 

[My77blazer]

I discovered something new with my heat. If I turn the blower off for a few minutes I have good heat when I turn it back on. This last a very short time, probably less than a minute. What would cause this?

 

[Wild one]

I discovered something new with my heat. If I turn the blower off for a few minutes I have good heat when I turn it back on. This last a very short time, probably less than a minute. What would cause this?

Heater core sounds like it's virtually plugged.As soon as you turn the fan off,there's less air blowing across the heater core,so it has a chance to warm up, that's usually an indicator of very little coolant flowing through the core ie: it's basically plugged

 

[My77blazer]

Heater core sounds like it's virtually plugged.As soon as you turn the fan off,there's less air blowing across the heater core,so it has a chance to warm up, that's usually an indicator of very little coolant flowing through the core ie: it's basically plugged

Copy that, I’ve flushed several times but it sounds like it needs replacing.

 

[My77blazer]

Update, I bit the bullet and replaced the heater core. I was like a kid at Christmas when I finally got heat back! Thanks for the input from all. Start to finish took about 5 hours. Biggest problem for me was the HVAC ducting that runs to the back seat. I ended up cutting the one on the passenger side in half so I could remove the A/C box. Then used foil tape to put it back together. Still have plenty of air out of the rear vents.