Ram 5.7Hemi Coolant Flush DIY

[Sasquatchtdg]

Also if youre going to use a flush, make sure you get ALL of it out of the block. You don't want any of the that to stay in the coolant after you're done flushing.

Well this whole ordeal turned into a fiasco. I should probably have the system flushed again since I'm sure I did not properly flush the system. The radiator replacement took way longer than expected. The wife was pissed over how long it took. Called in reinforcements which was helpful.

Long story short, I hope I haven't completely buggered my truck cooling system.

 

[Xsen]

I'm thinking of doing a full system flush soon, as I strongly suspect the coolant quality to be questionable to say the least. Anyway, what I have in mind is:
1. Make an improvised flushing machine, basically an electric powered water pump, some piping and a few taps, some hoses to connect it to the cooling system. Ideally add some reservoir with a heating element in it, as hot water with some flushing agent works real good. I want this thing to be able to switch the flow direction between the two ports so I could do both reverse and normal flow flushing. Seen a similar device in one of the local shops, they use it to flush the heater cores. Crude, but it really gets the job done.
2. Drain the system from the rad and the heater core, leave the block plugs alone.
3. Remove the T-stat
4. Flush the radiator, the block and the heater core separately from each other. Heater core is easy enough, the radiator too. I'm a bit worried about the block, but theoretically - having the flow generated by an external pump via the top and bottom hoses is sort of the same as having the engine water pump running.
5. Get as much water out of each of the components as possible.
6. Reconnect everything, refill and burp the system.

This in my opinion should get most of the debris out of the system. Any opinions on further improving this plan?

 

[Daniel12]

Going to attempt this flush on my 2017 Sport. After flushing a few times with distilled water until clear, should I use compressed air to blow the remaining water out of the system before adding the coolant? I know the heater core can be blown out with a low pressure around 12PSI, but is there any risk of damaging other components if I go to blow out the rad or engine block?

Was thinking I could put this coolant cap on, attach my 15gal compressor to it and blow out the whole system with the heater core disconnected. I'd blow out the heater core separately at a lower pressure, then refill.



Thanks

 

[Hemi395]

Its worth a shot, just make sure the pressure doesn't exceed 16psi which is what the radiator cap is.

Let us know how it goes!

 

[Hemi395]

I'm thinking of doing a full system flush soon, as I strongly suspect the coolant quality to be questionable to say the least. Anyway, what I have in mind is:
1. Make an improvised flushing machine, basically an electric powered water pump, some piping and a few taps, some hoses to connect it to the cooling system. Ideally add some reservoir with a heating element in it, as hot water with some flushing agent works real good. I want this thing to be able to switch the flow direction between the two ports so I could do both reverse and normal flow flushing. Seen a similar device in one of the local shops, they use it to flush the heater cores. Crude, but it really gets the job done.
2. Drain the system from the rad and the heater core, leave the block plugs alone.
3. Remove the T-stat
4. Flush the radiator, the block and the heater core separately from each other. Heater core is easy enough, the radiator too. I'm a bit worried about the block, but theoretically - having the flow generated by an external pump via the top and bottom hoses is sort of the same as having the engine water pump running.
5. Get as much water out of each of the components as possible.
6. Reconnect everything, refill and burp the system.

This in my opinion should get most of the debris out of the system. Any opinions on further improving this plan?

That looks like a good plan! Just make sure you don't build up too much pressure in any of the components and you should be good.

 

[EriikK]

Silly me, I read and trusted what was written on the bottle. :-(
Specifically, last year when I installed the engine in my 2015 6.4 2500, I used the OAT coolant as recommended in the manual. All was well. But then I was chasing a minor leak while on a long trip and I topped off with Prestone "for all vehicles". It even specifically says on the back it is compatible with OAT so I thought it should be OK. Shortly after, my heater stopped working. Now I have the cooling system apart for other reasons (cam and lifters) and I am finding red mud everywhere in the cooling system.
So I'm flushing and cleaning everything and replacing the radiator for good luck since it is old anyway and I tow a lot.

So here is the question. Since I'm starting from fresh, should I use Mopar OAT or should I use something else that I can get at a parts store if I have a leak when I'm out of town?

Nobody else ever works on my vehicles so that's not an issue.
Is OAT better than other choices, or is it "anything is OK, just don't mix"?

 

[HEMIMANN]

I believe OAT is longer lasting additives than HOAT or Inorganic, is the deal, an OEM's have an interest in protecting themselves from customers that don't maintain properly so they don't end up in court cases.

The deionized water does the cooling, and to a lesser extent the ethylene glycol

The additives are there to reduce corrosion and lubricate the water pump bearing. In diesels they also have SCA as a wet cylinder surfactant to prevent cavitation erosion.

 

[Hemi395]

Honestly the Mopar OAT is pretty good coolant, I would just go back with that. My truck is 11 years old now and has only has the Mopar OAT. Anytime I've had to open the cooling system for any reason, it is virtually spotless. Plus with the concentrate you can dial in your mixture for your climate.

 

[EriikK]

I took your advice and got the Mopar purple OAT stuff. I'll carry a jug in the truck on trips. And if I need more, Ram dealers are not exactly hard to find.

 

[Hemi395]

I took your advice and got the Mopar purple OAT stuff. I'll carry a jug in the truck on trips. And if I need more, Ram dealers are not exactly hard to find.

Awesome! Yeah the Mopar coolant is one of Mopars better fluids.

Thats exactly what I do, I have a tote in the bed with the Mopar OAT, some oil, some trans fluid, and brake fluid.

 

[EdGs]

Awesome! Yeah the Mopar coolant is one of Mopars better fluids.

Thats exactly what I do, I have a tote in the bed with the Mopar OAT, some oil, some trans fluid, and brake fluid.

Same here, I keep a tote with fluids, tools, jumper cables, etc. on my redneck bed slide when I go on trips.