readylift vs zone

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Sig Schecter

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After recent ball joint issues I am looking to replace my UCAs. I have a 2014 3.6 Big Horn with 2.5" leveling kit up front and 1.5" kit in the rear. I still have stock struts and springs however I will be looking to throw in some adjustable Bilsteins in the near future. I am looking at the Zone Offroad HDs or the ReadLift Tubulars. $499 vs $439 respectively.

Is there a difference between them that would justify going with one vs the other? There is only a $60 difference in price but money is money.

I do not plan to lift any higher, just the Bilsteins at some point. Maybe springs.

I apologize if this specifically was already touched on. I did not find it.
 
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kurek

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I don't have experience with the Zones, I do have the Readylift ones.

The constructive parts I can add to this are that the Readylift ones have been trouble free for me, and you should be aware that there are two different part numbers for Readylift UCA's - one is "1500" and the other is "1501" - the difference is in the bushings. "1500" is urethane, "1501" is rubber. I think the Zone UCA's use rubber.

Mine are the urethane ones because rubber was not available yet when I bought them - I'd prefer rubber.
 
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Sig Schecter

Sig Schecter

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The constructive parts I can add to this are that the Readylift ones have been trouble free for me, and you should be aware that there are two different part numbers for Readylift UCA's - one is "1500" and the other is "1501" - the difference is in the bushings. "1500" is urethane, "1501" is rubber. I think the Zone UCA's use rubber.

I was not aware of the bushing thing. I assume rubber is the better option in this application?
 

kurek

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Rubber is silent and maintenance free, like OEM. Urethane needs to be lubricated during installation and it has a tendency to wash out the lubricant over time, which can make it squeaky and annoying. That's really about it.
 

Quick_Shifter

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After recent ball joint issues I am looking to replace my UCAs. I have a 2014 3.6 Big Horn with 2.5" leveling kit up front and 1.5" kit in the rear. I still have stock struts and springs however I will be looking to throw in some adjustable Bilsteins in the near future. I am looking at the Zone Offroad HDs or the ReadLift Tubulars. $499 vs $439 respectively.

Is there a difference between them that would justify going with one vs the other? There is only a $60 difference in price but money is money.

I do not plan to lift any higher, just the Bilsteins at some point. Maybe springs.

I apologize if this specifically was already touched on. I did not find it.
Both are solid UCA’s but zone takes the cake with it having a serviceable ball joint that you can replace for $15 instead of buying new arms. Get them from @Nick@GotExhaust you may be surprised on the deal ;)
 
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Sig Schecter

Sig Schecter

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Both are solid UCA’s but zone takes the cake with it having a serviceable ball joint that you can replace for $15 instead of buying new arms. Get them from @Nick@GotExhaust you may be surprised on the deal ;)

I noticed another thread mentioning to reach out to him as well and I believe I will. Need to clear up one thing though. I see, in reviews mainly, some say the Zones are meant for higher lifts. I’m only sitting at 2.5 inch lift all around. Will they work?
 

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I noticed another thread mentioning to reach out to him as well and I believe I will. Need to clear up one thing though. I see, in reviews mainly, some say the Zones are meant for higher lifts. I’m only sitting at 2.5 inch lift all around. Will they work?
100% they will work. They are actually made for the smaller lifts. Zone states that they will work with the 6” because they are not made for it
 

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Nick is a good dude, straight forward fast response and quick shipping. Top customer service you’ll deal with Guaranteed. And if all that it’s good enough the deal will be on most items you get
 

ram1500rsm

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Both should be fairly similar UCA's. Both have rubber bushings and literally both use HD standard BJs.
RL UCA's
https://www.readylift.com/upper-control-arms-dodge-ram-1500-4wd-2006-2018.html
RL says theirs is a propietary 1 ton BJ.
Replacement BJ
https://www.readylift.com/67-3412-replacement-ball-joint.html

Zone UCA's
https://zoneoffroad.com/products/ad...020-dodge-ram-1500-4wd?variant=33643110039640

Replacement BJ
https://www.sixityauto.com/moog-k80630-suspension-kit-3087003403.html

Don't know if the BJ's in both arms would be any different. They all have a similar price.

One is boxed, the other other is tubular. Don't know how both will index the BJ or which one is shorter or longer, any difference in offset etc until we get a pair side by side.

Rubber bushings are quieter and require no mainteance. Factory uses rubber bushings.

If you're offroading the truck rubber bushings will have some deflection if you're threading fast/hard whereas poly bushings will remain flat and given the way front UCA's articulate with an IFS application poly bushings are superior in that regards.
If you're just driving on the fwy and don't offroad much you won't notice a difference.
Not having to grease any zerks and zero noise/maitenance is also is more than welcome for most. With Poly you want to grease every 3-5k miles to avoid unwanted noises.
Also with Poly the bushings will spin in the sleeves/mounts so they don't bind if you're installing the UCA's with the truck in the air.
With Rubber you better tighten the bushings with the UCA sitting with the weight of truck on top and the truck sitting level where it'll normally rest to avoid binding and damaging the bushing.
Not a big deal either way just something to keep in mind at install time.

I had Zones for around 30k miles or so, they're nice UCA's and super sturdy. I replaced them recently with Icons Delta Joint because i wanted better UCA's for my needs. Better in the sense of running poly bushings with a more flexy BJ. My setup is a little more offroad oriented than normal and it also rides super comfortable on/offroad so i wanted to keep improving what i have.

Zones were my first ever attempt at running aftermarket front UCA's with rubber bushings and standard BJ's. I'm used to Total Chaos and Camburg uniballs and poly bushings.

I asked Nick for the TC ones but he doesn't sell them, Nick got me a deal with Icons so Icon i went. first time ever as well running the Delta Joints. So far very good and all i can say is I should have started with the Icons.

Take care and have fun.
 
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Sig Schecter

Sig Schecter

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What’s the shelf life on these type of ball joints. I guess what I mean is upgraded ball joints, assuming these are much better than stock and not just on a better control arm.
 

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What’s the shelf life on these type of ball joints. I guess what I mean is upgraded ball joints, assuming these are much better than stock and not just on a better control arm.
@ram1500rsm ran his through the ringer I’m not sure if he ever needed to replace one or not. I replaced one because the rubber boot got a pin hole in it. But I don’t see problems with them ever
 

ram1500rsm

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Should last the same as stock or longer. Technically the aftermarket ones are supposed to be more heavy duty than the stockers. That's one of the reasons we pay more for such UCA's.
 
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Sig Schecter

Sig Schecter

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I got my Zone UCAs last night. The instructions regarding greasing the joint arent very clear. It says "Grease the upper control arm assembly once installed." Can anyone provide me some insight on how to properly do that? Havent done it before.

I see that they should be greased every 3000mi which is easy enough. Im sure i could get away with doing it at oil changes. Its not clear on whether the ball joints themselves come greased. I am no mechanic but these ball joints move real easy by hand. Is that normal?

Sorry for all the questions. I appreciate the help.
 

ram1500rsm

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You need a grease gun and a grease tube. If you don't have one now is the perfect time to go to your local Oreallys or Napa or Autozone etc and buy those.
Once they're installed put the grease gun in the BJ zerk and pump them with grease. Repeat every 3-5k miles.

Youtube can teach you how to set the grease gun and how to grease zerks with it.
 
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